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Laing D5 wery noisy

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January 25, 2012 9:09:39 PM

Before putting case together I carefuly adjusted speed to the lowest noise that could push water though system.

The pump is noisy as hell, why?!

The pump I cut out 3 thin bits of tygon and put as feet, I screwed in the pump to the bottom of case and put 2 thin tygon bits under screws as padding.

There is about 15cm air bubble, It is impossible to bleed unfortunately.

More about : laing wery noisy

a c 324 K Overclocking
January 25, 2012 9:14:09 PM

My D5 is almost silent on level 5.

Can you elaborate on the setup so we get an idea of how it is configured with the noise? (or pic would be better).

January 25, 2012 9:22:58 PM

I will later post pictures.

Maybe it is the air in the pump?

Will this big amount of air damage and make the pump permanently noisy?

I'm using in-ear and too tired to start bleeding today computer.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
January 25, 2012 9:25:14 PM

As long as there is some water moving through, this is good, but you really don't want there to be air at any point. Water is both the lubricant and coolant that keeps a pump cool...so running it without water (or little water) is like running a car engine with little or no engine oil.
January 25, 2012 10:49:22 PM

SO I THINK ONLY WAY BLEEDING 100% AIR OUT IS RESERVOIR IN TOP???

So in my case put the rear of case on bottom as first picture?!

When I filled water to RES the other top hole at top of res I used to fill water in system, so I need wery long fill tube to be able to bleed without getting components wet?

Red arrow is where invisible air bubble appears coming up from RES when turn pc off, when PC on I can see tiny bubble in CPU block and reservoire but nowhere else really...



a c 324 K Overclocking
January 25, 2012 11:03:44 PM

Air is getting trapped in your rad. I'm assuming pic #2 is actual case orientation? If so, yes. Also, due to how your res inlet is setup, you will likely always have a small bubble like this since there will be air at the top of your res when the loop isn't running. This is OK, but try to keep the res as full as possible...this will mean less air that gets pulled back in. If you have a lower inlet on the res, this would eliminate air siphoning.

Disconnect your rad from the top of your case and pull it outside your case. With the loop running, rotate it in all directions, turning it about every 10-15 seconds until it seems most of the air is out. Turn your loop off, wait a few minutes and repeat the process until you don't hear gurgling in your rad and lots of tiny air bubbles moving through your loop.
January 26, 2012 10:55:04 AM

But the air is coming from reservoir as seen on red arrow, so when I turn off PC a 15cm air bit comes from reservoir.

Also the 2nd picture is cas orientation, the rad to cpu tube is a bit shor but I think there is enough room to turn the rad upside.
a c 324 K Overclocking
January 26, 2012 1:12:50 PM

There still might be air in your radiator. If the loop stops and the air accumulates in your rad, it 'pulls' the air bubbles together, thus water fills the voids and then siphons more air out of your reservoir. You can eliminate this by filling your reservoir as full as you can so there is less air for it to suck back up.

If your water level in your reservoir changes during the loop running and when it is at rest, air displacement is the cause for the difference of that change.
January 26, 2012 11:30:33 PM

Well as seen on this picture I have the other top sube with funnel to fill destilled water, in fact the tube is filled 15-30cm water so it is almost full the tube and when I start pump it pushes the water so it almost gets out of tube.

Also i had problem with the fillport tube leaking as there was pressure from water in that tube.

a c 324 K Overclocking
January 27, 2012 12:18:05 AM

You have a decent kink in your pump inlet tube...you'll definitely want to fix this.

Also, if you can do it, move both of your loop tubes to the bottom of your res...inlet and outlet. It isn't absolutely mandatory, but might help your air siphoning issue. I also still there there is air in your rad.
a b K Overclocking
January 28, 2012 7:55:02 AM

After looking at your setup, initially I missed the cause. A resivoir has 2 purposes. 1 is obvious, to store water. but 2 is a bit tricky and where your problem is, It stores Air as well.

Your loop is "air inclusive", meaning you cannot get the air out of the water flow. Tee the top of your resivoir and make that top tee your fillport, make that a permanent part of your loop with a cap you can plug. It must be permanent and must be off the tee so air can escape the loop when shut off. It will take a few times on and off to get the air to return to the resivoir where it can stay out of the flow line and in the "fill tube", but just keep filling it.

With water going through the resivor the way its designed, you will have constant turbulance forcing tiny air bubbles to continue forming. That air needs somewhere to go, with the loop closed and no pocket, it can't go anywhere.


Crude text diagram

air
|
|
|Tee----->>----- flow ----->> ------->> back to start

Air floats so it will stay there

current system ...

air ---->> ---- flow --- >> back to start.
January 29, 2012 12:33:08 AM

Thanks, I think I need to have one cap on top open during bleeding then.

I have big problem, if I turn pump off then the water push out over PSU as there is bad leak on funnel, so then there is so much air that the water gets pushed to funnel and then powersupplie get alot of water on it and the fan is on top so it is not good :( 

I now have sealed where tube and funnel was, but judging from youre post this does not work as air can't get out?

Also I have made slightly adjustment to my system as of below picture:

January 29, 2012 12:51:00 AM

So I moved some parts and put return from cpu to bottom side of res for better bleeding.

I have big problems, first there I can barely fill the res over the top of res as funnel has huge leak, so this is not a problem when pump is running,
however when pump is turn off the water push to funnel leak and all over PSU and little bit on GPU.

sometimes when pump is running air gets inside reservoire and the water goes to funnel even when pump is running, only solution is to tilt case and let water fall to floor otherwise PSU and computer get totaly wet.

So now I have sealed top of reservoir and remove tube + funnel, but now air not get out?!

So I need to keep the funnel and tube and let the pump run, however there is guarantee to be alot of leak and papertowel to use.

Also I have big problem, if I turn pump off then the water push out over PSU as there is bad leak on funnel, so then there is so much air that the water gets pushed to funnel and then power supplie get alot of water on it and the fan is on top so it is not good :( 

I now have sealed where tube and funnel was, but judging from my understanding does not work as air can't get out?

Also I have made slightly adjustment to my system as of below picture:



edit--> so even if top tube has no water during bleeding it gets full of water and start leaking over PSU when air goes to res I assume.
a b K Overclocking
January 29, 2012 4:30:46 AM

something like on this page is what you will need. http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c101/s460/list/p1/L...

Also, since water tries to flow to the lowest gravity point, if your trying to fill below your radiator, it will try to exit the fill tube. make it longer so when your filling its above the radiator and you should be good to go.

Another alternate would be a valve on that line, where you could fill with an extra long hose, when your done bleeding the system, shut off the valve and remove the fill hose section.

something like this you can find at home depot. http://www.amazon.com/Watts-LFP-565-Straight-8-Inch-Low...
a c 324 K Overclocking
January 29, 2012 5:12:40 PM

No, cap and seal your reservoir...why did you leave it open? Yes, filling your loop- this is a good idea, but you don't want to leave it open longer than you need to fill the loop. Remove the funnel and tubing, cap the reservoir.

Those air bubbles will work their way out, so don't worry. Even though they are moving through your loop, they will collect and work their way out.

Your res inlet and outlet are now on the bottom, so this should eliminate the air siphoning you had before. This is a good route to go and should be much easier to bleed all the air out. Cap that reservoir hole and you should be done.
a c 324 K Overclocking
January 29, 2012 5:16:41 PM

Yes, this is because you still have air in your loop somewhere and need several start/stop cycles to move it out, while trying to get it out of your radiator.

It is fine to have a bit of air in your reservoir...that's what it's there for, to catch and accumulate air from your loop.

Why did you try to start/stop your loop with that tube/funnel? Not sure where you got this advice, but not necessarily the best, especially when you know you have air in your loop. First rule of bleeding a loop, if your reservoir water level changes when the loop is running and when the loop is stopped, you still have air in your loop to be bled.
January 29, 2012 5:40:14 PM

rubix_1011 said:
No, cap and seal your reservoir...why did you leave it open? Yes, filling your loop- this is a good idea, but you don't want to leave it open longer than you need to fill the loop. Remove the funnel and tubing, cap the reservoir.

Those air bubbles will work their way out, so don't worry. Even though they are moving through your loop, they will collect and work their way out.

Your res inlet and outlet are now on the bottom, so this should eliminate the air siphoning you had before. This is a good route to go and should be much easier to bleed all the air out. Cap that reservoir hole and you should be done.


Thanks now the pump has run all day and no more air bubbles in tubes or wery little :) 

So I guess it is normal that there is air in reservoir, it has alot of tiny airbubbles, so my understanding is that the res does not need to be 100% water?!

Also yes I have had for about 24h completely sealed the res and pump running, and as I said there is bubbles in res so it is not 100% water.
a c 190 K Overclocking
January 29, 2012 6:41:49 PM

Yeah, I'm not sure why you thought/were advised that an open loop was a good idea?
your loop should be closed to the air unless you are topping up,
when you top up and the air gets pushed through into the res you top up a little more, and because you have the loop open at that point, the air gets pushed out
Moto
a c 324 K Overclocking
January 29, 2012 10:23:06 PM

Quote:
So I guess it is normal that there is air in reservoir, it has alot of tiny airbubbles, so my understanding is that the res does not need to be 100% water?!


Nope, does not need to be 100% full. Having it 80%+ full will help eliminate the possibility of air getting pulled back into the loop, so with those vertical cylinder res's, this is pretty simple to do. If your reservoir is too turbulent, it might incorporate smaller air bubbles, but filling it as much as you can should help eliminate this. You also need to check if your water level in the res changes during operation and then when off, you still have some air somewhere in the loop.
a c 324 K Overclocking
January 29, 2012 10:23:55 PM

Water getting pushed back up this fill tube means you still have air in the loop.
a b K Overclocking
January 29, 2012 11:19:52 PM

This next topics has been merged by Mousemonkey
  • Please help with bleeding
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