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Zalman Reserator 1 v2 tweaked

Its time to see if my tweaks work...I just did a few mods to my Zalman reserator 1 v2 to see if it will cool my i7 quad..First ill tell you the cons about the system..well everyone knows the pump is way to small also there Fan kit dont work at all & theres a reason for that is. The return water hole in the base inside the tank is way to close to the pump so the pump is always pumping warm water back into the system & the fan kid dont have a chance in hell to do its job, plus i find the diameter of the lines to be to this is what im doing..I replacing the pump with an external my choice the swiftech 655 then what i did was that return water i put in a half inch nipple in the hole and added 10 inches of hose on the inside of the tank so now the return water is sent to the top of the tank then i wrapped the tank in 4 gag clear plastic so now when the 140mm fan blows it covers the fins from top to bottom giving the fan kit a way better chance to cool the system and also i replaced all water blocks to danger Den with half inch hose..Now im in the middle of this so im hoping that if i set my pump to the high flow & knowing im pumping close to a gallon of water that it will keep my system cool enough to maybe do a lil overclocking...will see soon enough...You maybe saying why bother well i kinda always liked the silence theres one thing i cant stand is the noise of fans wining out.. it reminds me of my X asking me for more money....
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  1. I would love to see pics of the setup before the mod, while you're modding it and after the mod.
    It would also be very informative if we could learn the temp readings before and after the mod. Plus OC and Non OC'ed reading for both.
    I always loved that setup, but could never get one.... good for you.
  2. Do you want this moved to the watercooling forum?

    You already know my stance on the Reserator, but kudos to you on the modding. Just hope you are using corrosion inhibitor in there...
  3. Yes move it if you like thanks and i will use some corrosion inhibitor...
  4. alyoshka said:
    I would love to see pics of the setup before the mod, while you're modding it and after the mod.
    It would also be very informative if we could learn the temp readings before and after the mod. Plus OC and Non OC'ed reading for both.
    I always loved that setup, but could never get one.... good for you.
    I just got in my pump today and ill be starting the change over tomorrow...still have to hit the city to find some corrosion inhibitor for the take being its aluminum... but ill take pictures for sure...
  5. Best answer
    25-30% solution distilled and automotive antifreeze works.
  6. Thanks man i was wondering how much to use...I appreciate the help...
  7. This will at least help corrosion.
  8. I had a few pictures set up but my girlfriend used my camera without me knowing and the itch deleted my pictures but i have this one with the new pump but all my mods are done and a few friends are dropping buy later and were going to try and heat it up a bit......
  9. Hey Douglasw, you have mixed metals on your set up, right? Did you used anti-corrosion coolants or any other special coolants? How effective is anodized aluminum in inhibiting galvanic corrosion?
  10. I just have a thing to say regards to the pump inside the Reserator. I really don't suggest on using it. I prefer a 12 v pump connected to the psu & place inside the pc case hence you don't have to plug the pump to a 110 v electrical socket & having to turn on & off the pump every time you run your computer.
  11. Ain't that a Mouse Pad beneath the Reserator? :)
    I would have like kept the Reserator under the table and had the rig on top..... of course you'd need a slightly more powerful pump to compensate for the overhead... but.... :)
  12. Quote:
    of course you'd need a slightly more powerful pump to compensate for the overhead...

    How do you figure?
  13. Excessive tubing..... that would be about 3 feet........ more of tubing sending it to a height of 3 feet above the pump.....
    Those pumps, I don't think were made to send water to an overhead tank.... :)
  14. Actually for the Swiftech MCP655 12 VDC Pump he might not need another pump.... it does specify a 10ft max head
  15. Head is the ability to push a column of water, straight up.

    With a closed loop, you are pushing water as much as you are pulling it through the loop. It's comparable to pulling a rope around a pulley- the rope pulls itself as much as it pushes.
  16. I agree with the Head definition, that didn't need to be explained...
    No it's not.....I have to disagree..(For the rest)
    Yes, with a closed loop you are pushing as much water as you are pulling through the loop. BUT, it is not comparable to the rope around the pulley BECAUSE you have missed out one very important factor, expansion due to heating.
    The X rise in temp causes a back pressure on both the intake and the out flow.
    There is no way to balance it out since the loop is closed and gas tight.

    Thus the pump-out has an additional pressure acting against it, adding to the overhead.... whereas the intake also has an additional force acting against it in the form of the rope pulley... it can't take in more water than what was sent out, but no one accounted for the expansion factor within the loop....
    Actually that's the main reason there is a gradual rise in temps..... not instantaneous but gradual.....
  17. ...Yes im using an anti corrosion used on new truck that have aluminum Rads & Blocks & mixed metals..
  18. dougiew=douglasw??
    Are you the same poster..... who started the thread?
  19. Your tubing flexes with expansion, and even before that- you would displace any air, first.

    Also, warmer fluids are easier to move.
  20. I totally agree about the pump..And this is why i replaced it im now running a 12 v pump which is no doubt better then the one i had..Also it is better that i dont have to worry about turning the pump on but go as far as installing the pump inside the case i wouldnt have a clue were to put it...Theres just no room..
  21. alyoshka said:
    Are you the same poster..... who started the thread?
    ......Yes im having problems signing in im getting error plus its asking me to confirm my registration which i done long time ago cant figure it out so i just opened a new account
  22. True, true true... on all three counts... but, flexing doesn't mean removing pressure... the pressure still stays inside, only the force is distributed a little in every part of the loop.
    And actually coming to think of it this is not one of those loops from corsair that are vacuum tight, right, we are talking about a loop that has a reservoir in it that can be topped up.... so actually, we are getting into a discussion that is pretty much not necessary, but we could start a new thread about it.... discuss it a lot more in detail since ,IMO, we can understand a lot of stuff that might be at the back of our minds regarding such stuff.
  23. dougiew said:
    ......Yes im having problems signing in im getting error plus its asking me to confirm my registration which i done long time ago cant figure it out so i just opened a new account

    OK.... We have a Mod here in the discussion you can always ask him to help you out....
    And you can also ask for a confirmation email to be sent again to you..... straight from the login page.... it's not advisable to create multiple logins.
  24. BY the way this is Douglasw last couple days iv be having problems signing in been getting errors and asked to confirm my registration which i done lone time ago its been a pain so i opened a new account....Now i put the pump close to the tank i thought that was the best place it did say it had a 10 ft head plus it beats that lil pump real bad my flow indicator is just flapping like crazy...If i did it wrong i sure like to corrected it...I can see the pump having a hard time pushing the water as it enters the tank but i did installed a line in the inside that drops the water at the top of the tank
  25. Yes thanks that what ill do...ill try to straight things out...
  26. Have you checked the loop for kinks?
  27. No No i have the Zalman Reserator 1 v2 & i replaced the lil pump to a 12v pump theres no vacuum sealed unit here...The tank has fins on it but its not like a rad like corsair what i use to cool the tank is a 140mm fan the pushes air pass the fins from the really the pump isnt really working that hard...when the return water goes back into the tank i have a nipple on the inside so i added 12 inches of hose so the water is sent to the top of the tank to give the fan a better chance to cool the unit
  28. Yah, Douglas.... we know...... we weren't talking about your unit...... that is a different discussion....
  29. I never thought to put the tank under the table..but im sure the pump could handle it the manual did say it had a 10 ft head plus the indicator is just going nuts...But again im sure i can still shorten up the lines.
  30. As a lot of people here talking about how weak the Reserator pump, I actually think the pump speed is not that relevant even if you use the pump that comes with the Reserator.

    Why I'm saying this is, I'm actually using very small pumps (Koolance PMP-400), 1 each on my dual loop. I have to set the pump speed to about 25% of its maximum speed hence it's extremely fast at full speed it would create some bubles on my reservoir if I don't fill up the reservoir with liquid coolant up to the top. The flow of liquid is so fast as I can see in my reservoir window.
  31. When you were saying those pumps were you talking about the small pumps that come with the zalman reserator...if so i totally agree thats why i replaced it because no bull my flow indicator was hardly moving at all i had to hit it to see if it was still alive...But like i said its just slapping back and forth now like it never has before..
  32. Actually, if the flow is slow, but efficient enough to keep the temps low, then I don't see a point in needing to change anything..... it's not the Flowmeter that dictates the temps......
  33. I can understand what your saying about the fast flow and creating bubbles and that would be in my case also but what i done as the water enters the tank from the bottom through a nipple i pushed on the nipple 12 inches of hose so the water now exits out at the top of the tank and the screw on cap at the top has a breathing hole to let out any pressure so i really dont get any bubbles at all..
  34. Your right about the flow but if you only seen the pump that came out of the tank would really scare you..The pump was an inch wide by 2 inches long by a inch and a half deep its classified as a small Aquarium pump and i was told many times that it would never cool a i7 quad on a afternoon of playing games.And Mr Rubix_1011 set me straight about his opinion about the zalman reserator 1 v2 but im sure he was just talking about the pump being useless..
  35. There is a large difference in flow and power between a DDC pump and the stock pump on a Reserator.
  36. You got that one right about the Zalman pump...You really dont know how small it is till you have it in your hand..And i cant believe with my first watercooled Pc that lil pump was passing water through my Cpu then my chipset them the videocard and all the hose that came with the zalman tank...But i do feel better now that i changed it
  37. Thanks for the tip as of this morning my account is back to normal..
  38. You were saying with the amount of head my pump needs to push i might need a slightly bigger pump...Heres a pic showing the hole water route Really theres not that much hose the manual show instructions how to install the pump they had the rad at the back with the pump located in the middle of the case and the holding tank was at the front.. So over all im using about the same amount hose that they used in the instruction..Plus my flow indicator gives my an idea that its pumping pretty good...Anyways thanks for the help
  39. What PSU are you using, looks a lot like mine.... mine's a Tagan.... not the best but very efficient though...
  40. Mines the Kingwin Lazer 850 watt 5 year warranty all gold plated up & down in & out..
  41. Hi Doug, seems a while since you posted but I have only just come across this type of water cooling. Not that I've looked intensively or even had it before. But this one I think is attractive.

    I read your modification and if I get one was possibly going to do a few myself to hopefully make some improvement.

    Regarding the tubing you put inside to direct the water higher up. Well I was looking at a usual fan and car-like radiator set up and thinking where the reserator loses out. The normal rad has many thin tubes giving a large contact surface area for heat exchange which is probably better. So, with that 10 inch tube, what about making it longer, 15 or 20 inch, and past the 10 inch point drill holes in it with say a 2 or 3 mm drill bit ever inch or so. Also at an angle so the water doesn't have a 90 drgre turn to make and so less likely to pass out these than carry on up. So the water can then disperse in a fan like pattern, rather than on big mass stream. Would these bring the war water in contact with more of the cooling surface and reduce hot-cold zones that might occur if the water creates a path way because its not specifically mixed.

    Alternatively use an aluminium tube which can be drill easily. This could be bent so that its runs close up the heatsink body so warm water is sprayed around the outside and then hopefully cooler water sinks in the middle. All theory you understand. Would the warmer water being closer to the heatsink be better.
  42. This topic has been closed by Rubix_1011
  43. Best answer selected by douglasw.
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