Cleaning Water Cooling Parts?

I want to upgrade my Zalman tubing to some Primochill LRT. While I'm switching tubing I might as well clean some of my components. Is there a specific way of cleaning the radiator, waterblock etc?
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More about cleaning water cooling parts
  1. Taken from the watercooling sticky:

    Take your blocks out, remove fittings, inspect for corrosion, etc. Take your CPU block apart and clean it with a toothbrush. If it looks gunked up, scrub with a toothbrush and ketchup. The acidicy in the ketchup does me on this. Even if they don't need to be scrubbed, a soak in a distilled water + vinegar solution (50/50) should help clean up the rest. Rinse out your radiators in the same manner as when you first got them. Reassemble and refill your loop as before.
  2. I saw a video on YouTube where a radiator was cleaning by attaching the tubing to a tap in the bathroom and just running distilled water through it for a couple hours. Would this be effective?
  3. This may sound crazy but it works, get some Simple Green and basically saturated what you can with it and let it sit for 30min or so. Then rinse all you're parts with clean water and should be good to go, assuming you don't have lots of corrosion.
  4. No, the water coming through the tap in the bathroom is not going to help at all, it's not even distilled. Quite the contrary long periods of pushing that water through the rad will cause salt deposits and a layer of brown stuff covering the pipes insides leading to a much lesser effective radiator.
    The distilled water that is spoken about on so many forums to clean WC parts is actually Battery Acid.... not Boiled, Vaporized and Condensed Water....
  5. So what would be the easiest method of cleaning the water block and radiator?
  6. Use mild Battery Acid (Distilled Water) and just let it soak for sometime.... then you can either use a tooth brush or just give it a vigorous shake till you see or feel water flowing through the Rad easily and see or feel the Water Block is cleaned.
  7. so no special chemicals?
  8. Mild Battery Acid itself contains Sulphuric Acid..... that is pretty much a chemical combo all in one solution... I doubt you'd need anything else. But do use the precautionary measures printed on the bottle before trying anything out, keep it way from your eyes, clothes and skin.
  9. im just going to use distilled water :P
  10. **The distilled water that is spoken about on so many forums to clean WC parts is actually Battery Acid.... not Boiled, Vaporized and Condensed Water....
    link please? I drink the distilled water I use in my loop so I'm rather unsettled to read this allegation
    Cs, is there any way you can run your loop into a bucket of distilled? it depends on your loop ofc, mines designed for easy flushing, but check this out for guidance,
    if you can put a feed and return pipe into the bucket, you can walk away and leave for a good few hours
  11. ^i have no idea what you're talking about... sorry this is my first WC build so i'm a bit of a noob
  12. Not the drinking distilled water......:(
    no, that is the Vaporized, Condensed and then bottled for drinking purpose water.

    The one used for cleaning coolant stuck in a radiator is the battery distilled water...
  13. Can you use drinking distilled water as coolant though? By the way this is the Wiki Answers description of battery acid: Sulfuric acid, or H2SO4
    The concentration is about 30%, and so it has a pH of approximately 0.

    Read more:
  14. Yup, that is right about battery acid, but you need to use a mild one.... more in the ration of 50 -50... 50% Battery acid and 50% distilled water.... That gets all the gooey stuff off the insides of the rad if it did get stuck there and leaves the copper inside clean as new...
  15. The coolant I'm using now was bought locally and to be honest I have no idea what it is... it came in a bottle with no branding. It is blue in color. What do you think it is?
  16. INK? :)

    It is most probably an Antifreeze mixed with distilled (Drinking) or demineralized water....
  17. nah it's not :P
  18. and I also still have air bubbles in my system after a few months... how sad
  19. Get rid of the air bubbles first before starting the loop outside the rig by itself before you finally place in it...... use buckets or other vessels as reservoirs if you have to...
    And make sure you find the reason for those Air Bubbles being there...
  20. Air staying in a loop is one of the biggest first-timer's problems. Often, they get a loop running, don't really know what to expect and neglect purging all the air. They later find that their reservoir levels have dropped, suspect a leak and get scared when they don't find one. Air *usually* works it's way out of a loop with a good pump and flow, but not always. Your water level in your res should be almost identical when it's running and when the pump is off. If not, you have air in your loop displacing your water levels.
  21. I'm still not up on the battery acid for flushing tbh lol,
    I use white vinegar in a 5-10% solution with 10l of distilled and just cycle for a few hours, no stripping required :)

    the blue coolant CS342, is probably just some pre-mixed like feser one, some pre-mixes can gunk up blocks as the dye breaks down but if you are stripping to clean your parts regularly I wouldn't worry,
    a lot on here just use plain old distilled and a killcoil or two,
    and as Rubix said, purge purge purge hehe,
    I won't have air in my loop at all but most people have a small amount in the res and thats fine as long as its 80%+ full
  22. could i clean using alcohol?
  23. No. Alcohol and acrylic do not play well together.
  24. And regular distilled drinking water would not work either?
  25. Yes, thats what I use,
    5L of distilled with 500Ml of white vinegar in the bucket, short the green and black,
    go shopping/housework/fix stuff for 2-3 hours, drain and run another 5L of just distilled for another hour, drain then refill, drop the killcoils back in the res, refill and bleed (hardest part for most people) and done.
    the laziest way of cleaning it is also the simplest,
    but apart from setting up, is actually less time-consuming than say standing at a sink for three hours with a toothbrush and bottle of ketchup :P
  26. So how would I go about setting this up? Remove all the WC components from the case, fill the res with the solution mentioned above, then jump start the PSU?
  27. Can I get a picture of your loop/case?
    it may be that we can alter your design to allow you to leave everything in place for future flushes,
    (so we can put that into place when you replace tubing as discussed in your other thread)
    but for now yes, you can pull it all out and flush it outside the case, and once you've flushed,
    fill the rad 60%ish with distilled and cover the ports with your (clean) fingers, give a good shake for a few mins, rinse, this will help get any residual crap out of there too, even if theres nothing in there, its better to have done it needlessly than to need it done and not have :)
  28. "fill the rad 60%ish with distilled and cover the ports with your (clean) fingers, give a good shake for a few mins, rinse, this will help get any residual crap out of there too, even if theres nothing in there, its better to have done it needlessly than to need it done and not have"
    do you mean the res :P or is it actually possible to "fill" the rad with water?
  29. I meant the rad, on its own, no tubing connected, fill it more than halfway to get a good amount of water in there, but not so much that it doesn't have room to slosh
    a good thing to have around is spare tubing, a litre jug and a small syringe, only use them for your waterloop though, I'm always tempted to use the jug and syringe for bike maintenance hehe, should buy spares lol
  30. okay thanks a lot for the help ^^ one last question: does the water block corrode over time if left on its own?
  31. Everything corrodes/rots over time, but on the timescale your thinking of no,
    a six-month flush and a yearly clean is generally the practice to follow, unless you use dyes or pre-mix, in which case strip cleaning can be required more often as the dyes break down
  32. If you can, it's also helpful to run some kind of filter to keep all that crap out of the water as you flush your rads- you'd be surprised how much junk is in there. There are several options if you go this route, but like Moto said, if you can at least fill/shake/rinse a few times manually this should help get out most of the big chunks.

    New radiators are like new babies- they are nice, shiny and fun to play with but they are a real pain when you need to get all the nasty stuff cleaned out of all the had to reach places.
  33. So how long should I expect the components to last if I clean them once every year?
  34. I've had the same CPU block for 3+ years, same radiators for about 4 years, same pump for almost 6 years. Tubing is pretty much disposable as it starts to get brittle, cloudy, stained (if you run dyes/additives) and can cause leaks if it deforms too much from aging...although realistically, we'd be talking several years. I ran my loop for 2 years straight without problems.
  35. wow thats heartening :D
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