Sign in with
Sign up | Sign in
Your question

I7 860 getting hot

Last response: in CPUs
Share
January 8, 2010 7:06:59 PM

Recently built this computer about 2 months ago.
i7 860 with an arctic cooling freezer 7 pro rev.2
4gb DDR3 Corshair XMS3 1600
ASrock P55 Extreme
Case is an Antec 900.

STOCK VOLTAGE:
Idle, it's around 45C.
Load temps get up to 99C, probably after a few hours as I was away from my keyboard when I ran the stress test, and I could only imagine they would go higher as prime95 stopped the test after 99C
Intel Speedstep and turbo disabled. Hyperthreading is enabled.

When I was installing the heatsink onto the motherboard, the RAM got into the way of the heatsink to be pointed the way towards the front of the case, so I was forced to point it to the back, where a case fan is blowing.
Also, I forgot to order some Arctic Silver 5, and I didn't think it would make a HUGE difference. Could this be making the temperatures so high?


More about : 860 hot

a b à CPUs
January 8, 2010 7:15:34 PM

99C is quite obviously a big problem. You know this, which is why you posted here. I'm not clear on your heatsink however.

1) Is your heatsink BLOWING air toward the front of the case?

2) Is your REAR fan BLOWING into the case?

3) Is your front fan pushing air out of the case, or into it?

If so, this is obviously not the best setup. You'll evacuate heat more efficiently if you blow the air to the rear of the case, and use the rear fan to blow it out. Depending on the design and obstructions in the front of the case, you may not be getting hot air evacuated at all.
m
0
l
January 8, 2010 7:20:56 PM

My heatsink fan is blowing air toward the back fan, which is blowing air into the case.
I have 2 front fans, which are meant for the hard drive bays. I don't imagine them to do much for the case.
What I personally think, is if the heatsink was turned around, 180 degrees, at a point where it was blowing air toward the front of the case, the fan from the back of the case would blow at the rear of the heatsink and also, the top, 200mm fan would sort of blow on the heatsink. Or if it was pointed down.
Both ways didn't fit for me when I was installing the heatsink.
It's the motherboards fault for the most part, I could've went with something better and now i'm regretting it.
m
0
l
Related resources
a c 133 à CPUs
January 8, 2010 7:22:44 PM

artic silver 5 is great stuff sounds like u might not be getting full contact with the heatsink id reset it with artic silver u should see improve ments and make sure all your fans are flowing the right direction
m
0
l
a c 133 à CPUs
January 8, 2010 7:24:54 PM

turn your rear fan around u definatlly want that blowing air out of case
m
0
l
a b à CPUs
January 8, 2010 7:33:52 PM

If your heatsink is blowing to the REAR then it's installed PERFECTLY. This is actually how they are INTENDED to be installed.

Your rear fan however, should be pulling air OUT of the case. NOT pushing into the case.

The front fans should pull air INTO the case, to cool your hard drives and the entire case. Believe it or not, those front fans will actually help bring cooler air into the entire case, thereby giving your Heatsink cooler air to blow over the CPU.

Once you get that rear fan flipped around, so it blows OUT of the case, you'll probably find a decent drop in temperatures right there.
m
0
l
a c 199 à CPUs
January 8, 2010 7:34:16 PM

mattciupak said:
My heatsink fan is blowing air toward the back fan, which is blowing air into the case.
I have 2 front fans, which are meant for the hard drive bays. I don't imagine them to do much for the case.
What I personally think, is if the heatsink was turned around, 180 degrees, at a point where it was blowing air toward the front of the case, the fan from the back of the case would blow at the rear of the heatsink and also, the top, 200mm fan would sort of blow on the heatsink. Or if it was pointed down.
Both ways didn't fit for me when I was installing the heatsink.
It's the motherboards fault for the most part, I could've went with something better and now i'm regretting it.


Cases are designed for air inlets at front (and sometimes side and bottom) and air outlets at rear and top. Anything otherwise is "a bad thing". Air is suppossed to come in the front and be exhausted at top and rear.
m
0
l
a b à CPUs
January 8, 2010 7:37:56 PM

The air flow design of the case should be something like this:



Blue Arrows = Cool Air
Red Arrows = Hot Air

EDIT: Also, the fan on the heat sink. It should be on the RIGHT (memory side) of the cooler itself. It should then blow air THROUGH the cooler toward the REAR of the case. Then the rear fan on the back side of the case should blow air OUT of the case.
m
0
l
January 8, 2010 8:02:47 PM

I turned the rear fan to blow out, haven't done so with the top fan though.
Idle temps are just about the same, but load temps are definitely an improvement. Ran a small FFTs test, it peaked at about 86, large FFTs didn't get past 66, and blend test didn't get past 64. ran each for a few minutes.
definitely a big improvement :) 
now, if I would turn the 200mm top fan to blow out, I'm guessing temperatures would also go down further, maybe only slightly though. At this point, would I be able to take out the motherboard, and take off the heatsink, this time adding arctic silver 5?
m
0
l
a b à CPUs
January 8, 2010 8:11:46 PM

The Antec 900's top fan blows air out the top, unless you modified it.
m
0
l
January 8, 2010 8:14:54 PM

Yeah, i've noticed it blows air out the top. can't be removed either.
i've set all fans to H (high speed).
m
0
l
a c 133 à CPUs
January 8, 2010 10:06:20 PM

mattciupak said:
I turned the rear fan to blow out, haven't done so with the top fan though.
Idle temps are just about the same, but load temps are definitely an improvement. Ran a small FFTs test, it peaked at about 86, large FFTs didn't get past 66, and blend test didn't get past 64. ran each for a few minutes.
definitely a big improvement :) 
now, if I would turn the 200mm top fan to blow out, I'm guessing temperatures would also go down further, maybe only slightly though. At this point, would I be able to take out the motherboard, and take off the heatsink, this time adding arctic silver 5?



i would definatly take it off and apply artic silver i still think ur not getting full contact with the chip with the heatsink
m
0
l
January 8, 2010 10:59:08 PM

ran a stress test for about 3 hours now, max temp was 76C, with all stock settings.
probably won't be extremely OC'able, might as well get a new heatsink.
recommendations? has to fit in my case :\ as for price, doesn't really matter.
m
0
l
January 9, 2010 11:57:03 PM

mattciupak said:
ran a stress test for about 3 hours now, max temp was 76C, with all stock settings.
probably won't be extremely OC'able, might as well get a new heatsink.
recommendations? has to fit in my case :\ as for price, doesn't really matter.



you should really check carefully that your cooler is seated properly, with those temps it doesnt sound like it is. Im running the exact same CPU and i max out around 47C tops on mine. Also to much thermal paste can cause problems as well. im using the CNPS 10X extreme cooler on mine.
m
0
l
January 10, 2010 2:19:13 AM

I have the same CPU and cooler in an Antec 300 case. Mount the Arctic Cooling CPU cooler so the fan is pointed towards the rear of the case. The top fan is almost directly above the cooler; make sure it is blowing out (up). The heatsink is not the problem; it may not be seated correctly. Make sure the CPU cooler fan is actually spinning when the computer starts.
m
0
l
April 7, 2010 2:01:14 PM

mpavao81 said:
you should really check carefully that your cooler is seated properly, with those temps it doesnt sound like it is. Im running the exact same CPU and i max out around 47C tops on mine. Also to much thermal paste can cause problems as well. im using the CNPS 10X extreme cooler on mine.


http://www.xbitlabs.com/images/coolers/zalman-cnps10x-e...

Sounds impossible, if you run Linx or Prime Small FFT. Did you underclock?
m
0
l
a b à CPUs
April 7, 2010 4:30:38 PM

ream said:
http://www.xbitlabs.com/images/coolers/zalman-cnps10x-e...

Sounds impossible, if you run Linx or Prime Small FFT. Did you underclock?


47 C under full load does seem very, very low. But I've done it with my Q9400 w/Artic Cooling Pro 7 Freezer in the winter time by putting the case next to the opened balcony door, leaving the side panel out, and letting the winter air hit the whole motherboard. So if the guy lives in a very cold climate or keeps his room very cold with AC, I guess it's possible.
m
0
l
April 7, 2010 4:36:17 PM

hundredislandsboy said:
47 C under full load does seem very, very low. But I've done it with my Q9400 w/Artic Cooling Pro 7 Freezer in the winter time by putting the case next to the opened balcony door, leaving the side panel out, and letting the winter air hit the whole motherboard. So if the guy lives in a very cold climate or keeps his room very cold with AC, I guess it's possible.


Hehe :D 
I checked his profile, it says CANADA

You are right :) 
m
0
l
a b à CPUs
April 7, 2010 7:15:35 PM

While still running Prime95, as soon as I shut that door, the temps start creeping up. And after 20 minutes, back to normal with all four cores around 60 - 62 (not bad still).

m
0
l
April 7, 2010 8:11:29 PM

I wonder if someone has their PC stick out like an Air Conditioner outside of the building on the wall.

This will make it more practical than opening a door during winter times :E
m
0
l
a b à CPUs
April 7, 2010 9:09:56 PM

I'm living in snow country. It's not my house (renting) but if it was, I would consider making a 3 inch hole through the door, get some hoses, have a fan suck in the very cold air and have it blow right into the center of the motherboard (NB, RAM, everything stays cool!) and the whole project would cost me pennies compared to water cooling!

Can always plug up the door right, carpentry skills?
m
0
l
!