Looking for some input about these two boards.
I emailed Gigabyte with a list of my components and asked what they would recommend I use.
I need to replace my ASUS, again , so thought I would move to another board.
Those are just two different revisions of the exact same motherboard. Which revision you receive will depend entirely upon the supplier.
DOA reports shouldn't be a primary deciding factor. Instead, focus on the actual reviews. I've found Newegg's 3 and 4 egg reviews are often the most revealing. They tend to come from knowledgeable, scrutinizing people who take into account the positives and negatives, generally explaining each in detail. Also, take into consideration that at least some DOA's are not the result of a truly defective board, but instead are caused by user-error. This is the major cause of Newegg's "Open Box" items.
Aaahhh! Don' worry - I do it all the time Part of the problem is the marketing guys - they gotta have umpteen million products 'differentiated' by some little infinitesimally small feature - which they think gives them additional 'markets', and really just leads to buyers' confusion! I complain about it all the time re GB's board offerings; last time I counted, they were up to over a hundred-twenty-five 775 socket boards - now, is that really necessary? I ask you... And it certainly doesn't make the already nearly insurmountable problem of decent support any less Herculean! And, Intel is another 'thorn' - if it wasn't already difficult enough for people to 'get' the long-standing difference between 'X' and 'P' chipsets, now we gotta have four variants of the P55/1156 - lessee, this one has some of the PCIe on-CPU, and this one has DMI instead of QPI, and this one supports HyperThreading, and that little piggy went to market, and on and on and on - ad nauseam!
I spent about 6 hours 'researching' MBs yesterday. Newegg was the place I found the most reviews by owners. Looked mostly at ASUS and Gigabyte, a couple others.
Pretty much paid attention to those who had owned the MBs for some time. ASUS far-and-way had the most 8 to 11 month failures. The most common 'con' for Gigabyte was getting the voltage set correctly for the DDRs. After spending much of a week here, I feel confident that if I run into any snags, help is here on the forum.
Any suggestions as to where to purchase it from?
This MB probably has a couple days left on it at best. Now it works for a couple of minutes, takes a coffee break for about 45 seconds, HD plays catch-up for a few seconds, works for another few, etc.
I still can't set my DDR2 memory voltage correctly... I have low-voltage G-Skill 1066 and 1100 sticks in my boards, which are supposed to run at 1.8V. I'll be damned if my Gigabyte boards will run at anything less than 1.9V, which shows up in every single monitoring program (including the BIOS) as 1.95V. LOL
Papagee, are you sure your PSU is fully stable? That sort of problem sounds as though it might be related to the PSU being unable to supply enough power to the GPU.
It just started that yesterday. Yesterday drive C was an ATA HD-win7. Pulled it out, installed a SATA HD -loaded vista. Same problem
PSU is a CORSAIR 750W.?
From what I gleaned on newegg reviews, if you are not running 'exact' matched memory sticks you will have problems with this board. One guy was running two different brands, rated the same, as soon as he pulled out one brand, it was fine.
I usually don't question Corsair PSUs, but they're not completely immune to problems. I just found it somewhat odd that your description is so fitting to criteria which could be caused by an intermittent or failing PSU. There are other possibilities, such as a faulty southbridge, which contains the HD controllers, etc.
You mentioned the memory example for my sake? I probably should have mentioned I have 3 different Gigabyte boards, each with their own identical, matching pairs of G-Skill DDR2 1066 or 1100 memory However, none of the boards will run them at anything less than 1.9V as I stated previously.
First question: Yes. The southbridge handles all that traffic.
Second question: No I don't recommend they not get a Gigabyte board. To the contrary, Gigabyte makes some really great motherboards. Some other companies do as well, but Gigabyte's offerings are often among the best. I've owned ASUS, ECS, Biostar, Intel, DFI, MSI, and Gigabyte motherboards, and my Gigabyte boards have been just as dependable (or better) than any of the others.
Another point - GB quality of manuals and support, both here (ahem) and at TweakTown; I have eleven 'in the can' full overclocks for P43/P45 boards (i.e., they've already worked, for someone!), including four & eight G RAM, and E6300, E7400, E7500, Q9450, Q9550, and Q9650 CPUs!
A lot of this is 'canned' - so if you've seen parts of it before, skip ahead!
Gentle (but noticeable), no-risk, low-voltage Overclocking parameters are in italics...
If you haven't yet done it, pull out one stick, start with a BIOS' "Load Optimized Defaults"
Before we start ramping things up, I want to teach you a new skill involving the BIOS: Do the <DEL> at the boot to enter the BIOS;
notice, at the bottom, the <F11> "Save CMOS to BIOS" - hit this, and you should get a menu that will show a number (the count varies by BIOS) of empty 'slots', each of which will store an entire set of BIOS parameters, to be re-loaded from the corresponding <F12> "Load CMOS from BIOS"; this is a wonderful overclocker's feature. What I do with it, is to save my 'baseline' working parameters, so if I change something that 'irritates' the board, and forces a reset of all the parameters to defaults, or, even worse, get so screwed up I need to do a 'clear CMOS', I can get back to my starting point with no effort, and without having to remember 85 separate settings! Another thing it prevents is two hours' troubleshooting, having forgotten a change to a crucial parameter - like, "wait a minute - didn't I have the Trd at seven?!" It's pretty self-explanatory, and I alway urge people to start right away by taking the time to give the 'slots' names that mean something: in two hours, "Try2" and "Try3" will not be very helpful, but "450@+10MCH" and "450@+15MCH" will! Another use is for 'green' settings; overclocks, as a rule, do not 'play well' with green features, such as 'down-clocking' and 'down-volting'; with the storage slots, you can set up one profile, say "Green", with all the settings at 'stock' values, and all the 'green' features enabled; another, say "Balls2Wall" with a full overclock, and all the 'green' stuff turned off... Another neat feature of this 'slot' system is, for most BIOS, the mechanism itself will keep track of which ones have booted successfully, and how many times (up to, I believe, a max of five)!
On the "Advanced BIOS Features" page:
"CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E)" to "Disabled"
"C2/C2E State Support" to "Disabled"
"C4/C4E State Support" to "Disabled"
"CPU Thermal Monitor 2 (TM2)" to "Enabled"
"CPU EIST Function" to "Disabled"
"Virtualization Technology" to "Enabled" - this allows use of Win7's fantastic VirtualXp feature...
"Full Screen LOGO Show" to "Disabled"
On the "Integrated Peripherals" page:
Your manual shows "Legacy USB storage detect", but later BIOS say "USB Storage Function" - either way, set to "Disabled"
On the "Power Management Setup" page:
"ACPI Suspend Type" to "S1(POS)" (for now...)
"HPET Support" to "Enabled"
"HPET Mode" to whichever OS type you're running - "32-bit" if an x86 version, "64-bit" if an x64 version...
On the "MB Intelligent Tweaker(M.I.T.)" page:
"Robust Graphics Booster" to "Auto"
"CPU Clock Ratio" to "9"
"Fine CPU Clock Ratio" to ".0"
"CPU Frequency" - this one can't be set, it's calculated, and will change when we set the next few items...
******** Clock Chip Control ********
>>>>> Standard Clock Control
"CPU Host Clock Control" to "Enabled"
"CPU Host Frequency (Mhz)" to "334" "CPU Host Frequency (Mhz)" to "401"
"PCI Express Frequency (Mhz)" to "100" (not auto...)
"C.I.A.2" to "Disabled"
******** DRAM Performance Control ********
"Performance Enhance" to "Standard"
"Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P.)" to "Disabled"
"(G)MCH Frequency Latch" to "333"
"System Memory Multiplier (SPD)" to "3.20 B" "(G)MCH Frequency Latch" to "400" "System Memory Multiplier (SPD)" to "2.66 D"
The strap is the reason we used a 334 or 401 clock, instead of a nice even 400: the 'straps' are sets of northbridge timings - much like memory latencies, the faster you go, the 'looser' the timings have to be... There are four straps, corresponding to the Intel FSB ratings: 200 (800FSB), 266 (1066FSB), 333 (1333FSB), and 400 (1600FSB - Intel actually does make a 1600 FSB CPU - the QX9775 - but, I think, it's over $1500 a pop!); each strap has it's own set of available memory multipliers (ratios). For instance, the 2.66 we used (which is actually a 4:3 bus to bus ratio) is available only on the 400 strap. Anyway, the strap latencies, for some northbridges, don't 'kick in' until one over the selected strap; so, in other words, setting the clock to 401 guarantees that we're getting the 400 latencies/timings...
"Memory Frequency (Mhz)" - again, can't be set, it's calculated...
"DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD)" to "Manual"
You should be able to leave the rest of the memory settings alone; we haven't changed its actual speed, so it should keep working: If overclocking, we simply took it from a system clock of 333 (1333FSB) times a three point two multiplier (333 x 3.2 = 1066), to a system clock of 400 (1600FSB) times a two point six six multiplier (400 x 2.66 = 1066)
"Load-Line Calibration" to "Disabled" (this works differently on different boards - on mine, it's worse "enabled" than "disabled" - the function is supposed to cure a phenomenon called Vdroop - the CPU voltage regulation circuit causes the CPU core voltage to sag, or 'droop' under high loadings; hopefully, we're going to be at a low enough voltage to just ignore this...)
"CPU Vcore" to "1.2500V"
& "MCH Core" to 1.200V" if you intend to add more than two sticks of ram...
And that should do it!
I should point out that getting two reboots in a row here is perfectly normal behavior; it seems that, when you change certain settings (and we don't exactly know which ones - the only sure one I know is Trd - if you change it, I think you get the 'twin' reboot) it boots once to 'see where it's at', recalculates its remaining 'auto' settings, saves them, and then boots again. Three reboots in a row, however, usually indicates that the board was 'given indigestion' by your settings, and is going back to defaults. This sometimes goes astray, and it doesn't get back into proper operation - for example, at this point, mine will sometimes 'lock' itself into 111MHz x a six multiplier - and take a week to do a whole boot - that's time to do a CMOS reset, and use your 'stored' <F12> profile to get back to where you were...
Thanks. You guys make it #*% hard to pick a best answer!
I will check back Wednesday afternoon to see if there are any recommendations as to where to purchase it from. Will check with my local repair shop to see if he can get it for me ( I'm a big believer in keeping my money local, if I can), if not probably Newegg.