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Lutfi's (2nd WC build) - officially first, build log.

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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 20, 2012 3:38:15 PM

Hey there everyone!

first time posting Build log - so be nice if I go off topic alot.

This WC build is for rig 1:
Q9550 E0
Asus Rampage Extreme w/Supreme FX X-Fi
OCZ 4GB 1333Mhz DDR3 Platinum Edition
Corsair H50 modded w/ Fusion block system, dual rad w/ p/p
320GB WD Blue 16MB - OS Drive
2x500GB WD Caviar Green 32MB in Raid 0
500GB WD Blue 32MB
80GB Seagate Barracuda (pata)
Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD+/-RW
XFX Radeon 6870 Black Edition 1GB DDR5
Thermaltake Spedo
Thermaltake Toughpower Grand 750W

I know its old but its been good to me :)  Took me a good amount of time to amass the knowledge and idea of parts to get. Furthermore, I had the support of Tom's hardware community regarding what to look for and how to look for them.

Thanks:
Rubix_1011
Sushi dragon
Homeboy
Motopsycho

Feedback:Fans+Fan controller advice

So from "early planning" stages in late 2010 to "final mark up" of stuff to get in late 2011 (plus the arrival of the Aquacomputer rads :love:  worldwide) here's what I'll have to get my feet wet.


was the initial stuff to get until I blew my bank limit and went all out for most stuff.

but ended up getting these:
1x Aquacomputer Airplex Modularity (AMS) 360 copper single circuit + D5
1x AMS res for vertical mount
1x XSPC Raystorm CPU block in black
1x Heatkiller NSB 3.0 NB block
8x DangerDen Perfect seal 1/2" barbs
1x Swiftech Radbox
2x silver kill coils
1x Copper Sulphate
20 ft of white Primochill Primoflex 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing
8x Steel hose clamps
3x Scythe AP-15
3x White Bitfenix Spectre 120mm
1x White Bitfenix Spectre 200mm
1x White Bitfenix Spectre140mm
1x Lamptron FC5-V2 fan controller
1x 30g Arctic Cooling MX-2

Purchases made courtesy of
aquatuning us
frozencpu
koolertek and
performance-pcs

Yeah i know, its overwhelmingly long... thas what I meant by going all out, and I also have the option of adding GPU blocks and more rad surface area :) 

here is what I have in rig 1;

Gallery for Rig 1 here

as of 3 days ago, I received the tubing, rad, radbox, barbs and kill coils.

the delivered stuff on my draughting table






Note:
I didn't go with the Compresion fittings since most people complained of issues with the compression fitting hitting against the counter sunk level since the threading is sunken. so went with perfect seals.

I've already twisted them over a pencil - but didn't take a pic of it.


radbox by swiftech


comes with all the screws necessary for installation/mounting even a PCI bracket to feed upto 1/2" OD tubing - but thas useless to me :D 



finally

the rad
a c 78 K Overclocking
February 20, 2012 3:39:56 PM

for reference






more pics will follow up once the rest of the stuff will make its way past customs.

P.S: sorry for the unsightly marks at the edge of the pics - my lense is aging, and its showing.
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a b K Overclocking
February 20, 2012 3:49:59 PM

Damn that is a big rad. I'm curious to see how it does; they're quite pricey, but I doubt they'd be that expensive if they weren't worth the money.
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Related resources
a c 78 K Overclocking
February 20, 2012 3:57:56 PM

eeeeeeeeeeeyaaaap, thas what i had in my mind for 6 months until i got a good amount of feedback from owners and reps @ aquacomputer.I posted a review of this rad a couple of weeks ago and its the best out there, but it IS bloody pricey.

I also forgot to mention the weight of that unit - 4.08Kg's - 8.98Lbs :ouch: 


more of the review of the rad:here

I also got a Mushkin Ridgeback Blackline 996991 kit with the stuff to replace the OCZ 1333MHz Platinum Edition dimms and have an OC of 3.4GHz, 1600MHZ 9-10-9-27 @ 1.65V now. So will be trying to push harder with the overclocks - hopefully.
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a b K Overclocking
February 20, 2012 4:08:52 PM

That heat dissipation is crazy. Overall the design looks quite nice, but more than one of these in a loop will either require separate loops or a second pump thank to their high restriction.

The all-copper look is great - I'm thinking about my next build being hard-piped with copper tubing... :D 
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 20, 2012 4:12:58 PM

Quote:
being hard-piped with copper tubing
:lol: 

hate to break it to you but its been done - and the guy used it to heat his washroom - his wife even wanted him to add more heatware as the wash room became cozy after that build project :D  haha

dunno where the link is but yeah it will be amazing in heat dissipation for you.

Quote:
but more than one of these in a loop will either require separate loops or a second pump thank to their high restriction
yeah thas what i'm thinking about now, but lets see how the blocks fare with it now...and in the future when i add gpu blocks to it.
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a b K Overclocking
February 20, 2012 4:33:30 PM

Quote:
hate to break it to you but its been done - and the guy used it to heat his washroom - his wife even wanted him to add more heatware as the wash room became cozy after that build project :D  haha

dunno where the link is but yeah it will be amazing in heat dissipation for you.


I've heard of copper-piped builds here and there, and it sounds cool. I want my next big build to be hard-tubed, and copper sounded much *cooler* than standard acrylic ;) 
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 20, 2012 4:35:02 PM

hard tubed - you mean that build that had hard tubing in the case , by murder mod? MDPC candidate?

I'm melting with the idea you gave me :)  but lets see how you do it ... its awesome though, copper hard tubing... :ouch:  :) 
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a c 324 K Overclocking
February 20, 2012 4:36:41 PM

If you could do a solid-tubed build with copper, it would be pretty nice. I would personally do it in polished copper, but you could also go steampunk as well.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 20, 2012 4:37:49 PM

^ + 5 to steampunk'd idea.
Tomorrow morning I'll take pics of the measurements and the fan layout.
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a b K Overclocking
February 20, 2012 5:11:03 PM

rubix_1011 said:
If you could do a solid-tubed build with copper, it would be pretty nice. I would personally do it in polished copper, but you could also go steampunk as well.


If I do that, I wonder if I'd build the case using steel or something. I need a cool material that would be suitable...too bad carbon fiber would be an expensive and probably poor choice.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 20, 2012 5:18:17 PM

what about titanium :)  has a yellowish tint to it, would go nice with copper.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
February 20, 2012 7:04:05 PM

Fiberglass- wouldn't be too hard with a simple frame, some resin and fiberglass mat.
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a b K Overclocking
February 20, 2012 8:03:36 PM

Lutfij said:
what about titanium :)  has a yellowish tint to it, would go nice with copper.


That, and maybe some platinum trim :bounce: 
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 20, 2012 8:06:53 PM

:lol:  you're an engineer right? i'm an architect so i was groomed into looking for "reliable" parts - that don't come cheap. :p 

Quote:
Fiberglass- wouldn't be too hard with a simple frame, some resin and fiberglass mat.
thas a better idea - i know its a good material to mod with, next best thing to carbon fibre.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 11:17:46 AM

update:

here's a shot of part of my work environment. Rooms too small to take a panoramic shot, and i don't have a wide angle lens to take the pic.



alright, enough talking, more showing.

today i set about, trying to determine the length of screws i'll need to mount fans onto the rad unit and in the process find out how to mount the fans.

for reference's sake, i had a Tt fan lying around, that'd be good for this test run and a steel edge scale.


a shot of the stand offs/threading between the fins and the stainless steel housing


and thas how much i have between the fins


anyone else who's looking at this rad, please remember that the threading is M3 and not M3.5 like most rad threads.


with the fan on;
this is what you can expect to see when I'll have the AP-15's mounted.






design consideration - lemme tell you, they did their homework.


and the little itty-bitty details.

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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 11:19:12 AM



since i'll be mounting the rad vertical with the pump impeller facing up, i'll need a res for the AMS - which is also en route.


back on track with the dimension:

since Friday, I've been digging on most sites and googling on what sort of screws i could use to compliment the unit, the latter would be nullified as i want the screws to go through the open end of the fan and would eventually be out of sight, but if the observer noticed well enough, they can take note of the "attention to detail" :) 

similar to this:

courtesy of: hardwarecanucks

so...


and the grand total would be:


now that i have the length, i thought of going with these

lemme know what readers think of the screw - and if there are any other options to look at :) 

For the readers info. (FTRI) - you might wanna check out homdepot or a local hardware store for the screws instead of getting them at e-tailers like frozencpu. Much cheaper.

** apologies to Rubix mate - i mentioned, what i thought to be a beveled edge to prevent any screw from "eating" into the rad...i was wrong.

Feedback from Aquacomputer support - Sven:
Quote:
no, it will not prevent the screw from going into the radiator. I know it looks a bit like it would do, but the screw will easily go through at the end.

kind regards
Sven


Edit: and thas not rust on the steel ruler, its red oxide stuck in dry aica... result of making models late at night years ago.

to sum up: look for the thickness of the fans and add 5mm to that length. for me it was 5mm+5mm=10mm. I could go 12mm but that'd be cutting it close.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 2:41:53 PM

Quote:
** apologies to Rubix mate - i mentioned, what i thought to be a beveled edge to prevent any screw from "eating" into the rad...i was wrong.


Always a very strong recommendation to test all your screws first, just in case. :) 
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 2:58:55 PM

:)  yeah noted!
good thing all the M3 screws i had were only 6mm long.

but what do you think about the screw i posted? would go flush with the rad/open fan frame
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a c 324 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 3:20:16 PM

Quote:
anyone else who's looking at this rad, please remember that the threading is M3 and not M3.5 like most rad threads.


Are those screws M3 or M3 x.5 x10mm? What is M3 x.5? I think most rads use either M3 or M4, but M3 is pretty common I believe. SAE I think is around 6-32 size if I recall correctly, but might not be exact.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 3:42:24 PM

Hmm :/  Sven over @ aquacomputer said the same thing...

If you remember the swiftech and the H50 rad mod, i initially had the Swiftech MCR 120 QP res only hooked up. I received screws that also went with the H50 rad screw holes. Recently, cos of threading and dimension confusion - i found out on Swiftech's site that the screws with the rad box won't work either.

and on further pondering, the .5 is the difference between the threading depth:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_case_screws

Quote:
6-32 screws will strip the threads of M3-threaded holes. When the M3 hole is drilled into sheet metal (as on floppy and optical disc drives), a 6-32 screw that damages the threading will typically stay in the hole and can be removed fairly easily. When the M3 threading is into solid metal (such as a motherboard standoff), a 6-32 screw will get stuck before it can be screwed in all the way.


more here
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a c 324 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 4:20:47 PM

Yeah, they aren't exact and some radiators need one or the other. However, they are both very similar in thread size and dimension so it's very easy to confuse which is which.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 4:28:14 PM

^ yeah well, google and some thinking removed most of the confusion. While i'm at it, was also thinking of going with these for the mobo: http://www.fastener-express.com/m3-x-5-x-6mm-socket-hea...

i'm talking it over with the guys there if they can give me 100 pieces of the same screw but at 10mm length.

reason being - going with this screw:

or like this:

it has two bands of markings while the former is flush and sleek


:p 
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a c 324 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 4:49:32 PM

Allen key screws always look so cool.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 5:06:36 PM

I like them, looks good as long as they fit your needs. But don't rely on my opinion...get what works for you and what you like. :) 
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 5:13:00 PM

:)  hmmm will do.

would you have any advise on how to grind the extra length off? it'll be a while before i can visit a workshop near my place :/ 
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a c 324 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 5:17:20 PM

The only problem with cutting/grinding screws is that you typically damage the starter thread on the screw. One way that I have done this is to thread an exact fit nut on the screw/bolt, cut to size and then as you thread the nut off, it should help reshape the starter thread.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 5:21:42 PM

wow a really ingenious way :)  ... i LIKE! thanks!

i've placed them on order, will wait for update and will also let you know of how the screws turn out.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 5:29:26 PM

This process usually works, but only if you make really straight cuts. If you happen to angle them, it can cause a weird thread that doesn't like to correctly start into a hole. Just give yourself enough room to get the nut on there, get it clamped down, cut and then you'll likely want to use a a ratchet/socket and in your case, an allen key on the other to ensure you can torque that sucker off.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 5:33:19 PM

^ thas another way of doing it - beat it to submission :D  :lol: 
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a c 324 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 5:54:05 PM

You're likely going to have to do it that way, regardless. You basically have to re-cut that first thread again by removing the already-threaded nut.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 6:07:20 PM

Pretty much the same concept I mentioned- thread screw, cut, un-thread to re-cut threads.
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a c 224 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 6:10:03 PM

A radiator fan shroud with the fans mounted as exhaust pulling air through the radiator gives a full radiator cooling area access, fans that are mounted directly on the radiator pushing the air, each fan blocks 1 1/2" of center airflow at the motor housing.

That dead air space produced by the fan motor body is never overcome, no matter what fan you use, even a push/pull has the same dead air space.

Most high dollar air coolers position the heat pipes outside the center of the fan motor body, to get away from the dead air zone and locate the heat pipes in the direct airflow of the fan.

For a radiator you should want to take 100% advantage of the entire cooling coil area.

Just a suggestion. Ryan

I've kept an old quick crimp connector tool because it is also a screw cutter and works perfect every time.

Also if it is a very little amount to cut, washers work miracles for spacers and look good too.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 6:11:47 PM

duly noted :) 
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 8:00:22 PM

Quote:
I've kept an old quick crimp connector tool because it is also a screw cutter and works perfect every time.

Also if it is a very little amount to cut, washers work miracles for spacers and look good too.


1| could you shoot a model which i can look for at my local hardware store?
this a good one - or can i find one for cheaper:
http://www.amazon.com/not-listed-Metric-Cutter-Crimper/...

2| the washer idea ain't bad but i'm picky with what i have going on it :)  but still a worthy point to keep in mind , should i take that route.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 8:03:21 PM

I went the route of a couple extra washers...easier than clipping down 24+ screws.

But, I see your point on doing it right.

I'm a perfectionist. However, I'm also a bit lazy. You can only imagine the inner turmoil I constantly suffer due to both these traits.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 8:09:16 PM

^
Quote:
However, I'm also a bit lazy
:lol:  something i'd want to stay away from mate - though i also tend to not motivate lazy bums :D  as they might be discouraged to work ...

i understand the 24+screws if needed would be a hassle, but the candidates/winners over at MDPC have taught me one thing; When your going to do it, do it right - well not overkill, but to the best your abilities can produce. That way its a job well done and you don't procrastinate on a lil touch up you didn't do the first time around.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
February 21, 2012 8:13:22 PM

Yeah, if you are going the route of show-room quality, don't cut corners- cut bolts and screws.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 22, 2012 6:14:13 AM

Quote:
don't cut corners- cut bolts and screws
:lol: 

that idea 4ryan6 gave me was spotless and i found this
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 29, 2012 12:52:51 PM

update:

I've picked up a crimp/screw cutter when i was on a visit to my folks place last Thursday.

Since there was a hassle with the prev line of products, all orders for my stuff after rad were halted. There was also a couple of shifts with the hardware ordering. They asked i resubmit my list again: so i took the opportunity to review some of them.

Here's what has changed:

Prev:
1x XSPC Raystorm CPU block in black
8x Steel hose clamps
1x White Bitfenix Spectre 200mm
1x White Bitfenix Spectre140mm

Now:
1x XSPC Raystorm Full Copper Edition
8x 3/4" Lamptron Elite Hose clamps black
ditched the Bitfenix 200mm fan
1x Bitfenix 140mm pro fan white
2x 5mm White LED (HDD+Power) to swap out existing LED's on case
moving to get the anodized hex socket screws for rad and mobo


* tested the screw cutter and they cut flawlessly - Thanks again 4Ryan6
** will post once the stuff arrive hopefully in the weeks to come.
*** for the comment about the shroud i found this : http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-...
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a c 324 K Overclocking
February 29, 2012 1:25:31 PM

Quote:
* tested the screw cutter and they cut flawlessly - Thanks again 4Ryan6


Nice...I never used those crimpers/cutters for that purpose...might have to try it.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
February 29, 2012 1:30:13 PM

will post a pic of it and there's a video of one in action a few posts up.
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a b K Overclocking
February 29, 2012 1:32:41 PM

A full copper Raystorm? Ooooh :D 
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a b K Overclocking
February 29, 2012 2:37:43 PM

I know...it's pretty....
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a c 190 K Overclocking
March 1, 2012 3:53:16 AM

Its the tiny details like trimming twentyfour custom allen bolts that earn the respect of the 'right' people,
:-)
Shaping up nicely here man, great photo skills (one of my downfalls hehe) and thank you for the mention up top, I never knew I'd influenced you that much, :-)
Moto
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 1, 2012 7:55:54 AM

My first encounter with you was a build for 2 friends that brought out the OCD hulk in me :lol: 

your welcome mate - i give due credits to those due upon.

give me a buzz and i'll give you a few pointers with the camera - though i'll need your camera make/model first to shoot some ideas. Wanna know something funny - i use a Canon Rebel XT but i prefer Nikon's cos of color contrast/vibrance. I only chose the Canon cos it saved me a bucket load in getting lens' ... :D  my dad had them before hand , nearly 15 year old lenses :ouch: 

:lol:  now i know i've got your attention...good to know i'll have more people to steer me with feedback :) 
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a c 324 K Overclocking
March 1, 2012 12:48:10 PM

Quote:
i use a Canon Rebel XT


This is almost the same camera I use, mine is a Rebel XS.
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!