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Wd 500gb external hard drive wrong power supply

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September 13, 2011 4:04:45 PM

Oh boy am I in trouble! I used my laptop power supply on my WD 500 gig external HD- It was juiced for about 10 to 20 seconds- apparently enough time to short it out- I have read several walkthroughs about this issue and am willing to try them - but need help- I am an auto mechanic and have several tech manuals and project info on this drive and would really need to salvage it for my business- If someone can help I would greatly appreciate it in advance and in the future- I have the case apart and need to buy a the small torx head to remove the board - i am will to post pictures of the parts if that helps-

My questions are, aside from the snipping of the overload diode, that I have read about - is there any other may of repairing this Hard Drive?

Again thanks to anyone who can help
KC

More about : 500gb external hard drive wrong power supply

a b G Storage
September 13, 2011 7:08:19 PM

External hard drives are simply regular hard drives in a case with a USB adapter board installed. I would first remove the drive from the external case and connect it inside a PC to see if the data can be accessed. If it can I would still purchase another USB drive and copy all data to the new drive. I would NOT continue to use the old drive in case its life was shortened by the incorrect power adapter.
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a b ) Power supply
a c 353 G Storage
September 13, 2011 8:39:23 PM

(1) ^ has a good point, the problem could be the enclosure, or the HDD. However I would be reluctant to connect it to my computer directly. Could use a DVM to verify that the HDD is not shorted first.

(2) what I would do is buy a cheap USB enclusure and R&R the enclosure. You did not mention the type of drive. Is it one of the small "notebook" 2 1/2 In drives or is it the larger 3 1/2 in drive. Anyways: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=E...

(3) If you have a DVM, this is what I would do, I would first measure all the pins on the two connectors (power and Data) and compare them to a set of readings from a known good drive. Then if readings look OK then try the drive in a new enclosure, or directly into a PC.

Added: Pinout for sata Power (15 Pin): http://pinouts.ru/Power/sata-power_pinout.shtml

Drive upside down, looking at pins. Pin 1 is closest to the Data Connector (7 Pin).
Ohms check, Black meter lead to a screw hole (ground).
Ref: 3 1/2 in drive.
Pins 1 - > 3 Open
Pins 4 -> 6 0 Ohms
Pins 7 -> 9 Approx 10 K (May be higher)
Pins 10 & 12 0 Ohms
Pin 11 58 K ( this is an optional pins so may vary between brands/models)
Pins 13 -> 15 160 K ( for a 2 1/2" drive should be an open)

* open => 20 megohms.

For 7 Pin Data Connector: http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/Serial_ATA_(SATA,_Serial_Advanced_Technology_Attachment)
Pin one is farest away from 15 Pin Pwr connector.
Pins 1, 4, & 7 = 0 ohms
Pins 2,3,5,& 6 = Open (=>20 Megohms.
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Related resources
a b ) Power supply
a c 326 G Storage
September 14, 2011 1:58:43 AM

The most common result of an overvoltage on a recent model WD external drive is a shorted 12V TVS diode.

Remove the HDD's PCB and examine D4, D3, R67, and R64 near the SATA power connector. D4 will most probably be shorted, and R67 may be open circuit. If so, then remove D4 with flush cutters, and flow a blob of solder over R67.

See this FAQ:
http://forums.seagate.com/t5/Barracuda-XT-Barracuda-Bar...
http://community.wdc.com/t5/Desktop/HDD-TVS-diode-FAQ/m...

If you need help in identifying the components, upload a photo.
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September 14, 2011 3:32:13 PM


Thanks for all the suggestions- All sound logical and sound- I will upload a photo ASAP of the components ID as suggested by Fzabkar- but I would like your opinion regarding the simpler suggestion that this hard drive be separated from the power source and placed as is in a PC without your modification - I am trying to salvage the information to place in a fresh hard-drive and not necessarily interested in using the "damaged" external hard-drive-

I sincerely appreciate your help and everyones- suggestions as I have seen this issue come up several times and know that you have helped many people

Thank you in advance- And look for the pictures of the drive enternals soon
Kase
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a b ) Power supply
a c 326 G Storage
September 14, 2011 8:44:48 PM

It's the hard drive's PCB that has most likely sustained the damage, not the USB-SATA bridge board in the enclosure, although it, too, may be faulty.

I agree with RetiredChief in that you should test for short circuits at the HDD's SATA power connector before powering it up again. If you don't, then you could do more damage.

As for a replacement enclosure, be aware that some WD products incorporate hardware encryption, which means that your data may be encrypted, whether or not you have set a password. In such cases you will need to repair the bridge board, or replace it with one from an identical product of the same capacity.

You can tell whether your data are encrypted by examining the bridge IC. For example, if the largest chip on the bridge is an Initio INIC-1607E, then that would suggest 128-bit AES encryption. OTOH, an INIC-1607P does not support encryption.

Another way to confirm whether your data are encrypted is to examine sectors 0, 1, and 63 with a disc editor such as HxD or DMDE. If sector 1 contains a repeating pattern of 16 bytes, then these will be encrypted zeros.

HxD - Freeware Hex Editor and Disk Editor:
http://mh-nexus.de/en/hxd

DMDE (DM Disk Editor and Data Recovery):
http://softdm.com/download.html

See this thread for more information:
http://community.wdc.com/t5/External-Drives-for-Mac/Pow...
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September 17, 2011 7:02:37 PM

Sorry it took me a while to reply - Again thank you in advance for your kind help. To complete the background- I have a Western Digital Elements 500GB External Hard Drive -serial number WCAV54862997. I accidentally plugged in my laptop power supply to this Hard Drive- I estimate it was there for maximum 25 seconds(probably less) I did not smell any burning - I just unplugged it when I realized the mistake- I then powered up the laptop. I then used the correct power supply in the WD hard drive and attempted to see if it would work- It did not. It did not make any noise , warm up or anything other than a flickering LED indicator near the power supply- Total time of the "test" of power -less than a minute.

I then started looking on the net for info regarding this issue and found many references ( also alot of high praise for Fzabkar) and some hope.

As I said before I am not a computer guy and may need some help in finding and dealing with the various fixes-

I have to deal with your collective help one item at a time- so I may ask many questions- I hope you have great patience-

I have taken photos of the circuit board- But am not sure how to upload them to the site

Please advise

Thank you
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a b ) Power supply
a c 326 G Storage
September 17, 2011 8:12:43 PM

You can upload your photos to an image hosting site, eg ImageShack.

We need to see something like this:
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/3743/dsc04982nn.jpg

Could you please post a direct link to the image? This will avoid the ads, banners, popups, etc.

BTW, it's D4 and R64, not R67 that are the usual culprits. D3 and R67 protect the +5V supply. Sorry for the error.
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a b ) Power supply
a c 326 G Storage
September 24, 2011 10:37:30 PM

I can't see any visible damage. However, I still suspect D64 and R64 at the far LHS of the photo. You need to measure their resistances with a multimeter.

See http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diode_FAQ.html

If the drive spins up when directly connected to a SATA port on your motherboard, then the bridge board inside the enclosure will be the next suspect. Otherwise, if the drive doesn't spin, and if the fault is not restricted to the TVS diodes, then you will need to transfer the 8-pin serial flash memory chip at location U12 to a donor PCB. Some board suppliers include such a transfer service for US$10-$20. Otherwise your local TV/AV repairer should be able to do it.


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September 30, 2011 4:26:21 AM

Back to this project- I have included a new photo because I am able to find the R 64 but not the D 64 you noted as circuits to test.

I hope that you can still help on this project- I am going one step at a time

Thank you

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/708/bigcircuitboar...
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October 1, 2011 11:21:17 PM

fzabkar said:
The circuit reference for D4 is obscured.

I hope this helps:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/bigcircuitboard_di...


You go above and beyond my friend - Thank you again-- I will follow your instructions and will hope for the best- until next time THANK YOU!!!
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October 26, 2011 9:32:21 PM

I have been hesistant and did not want to annoy you with constant questions- so I shelved the drive for a few weeks-

I have now performed the resistence test on the diodes that you suggested

D-4 reading 9.7

R-64 reading 1.1

The multimeter is set to measure 200 ohms

Any further is advise is greatly appreciated

Thank you my friend
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a b ) Power supply
a c 353 G Storage
October 26, 2011 9:49:26 PM

To check a diode, you use forward to reverse measurement should be a min of 10 to one, but is normally a higher ratio - this only applies if the DVM can forward bias the diode.. If the DVM has a diode test, for a normal diode it will show the break down voltage, ie 0.7V for Si and 0.3or .4 V for Ge. DVM out put voltage is not high enough to check a zener diode this way.

To do an ohms check you would probably need to remove one end as the mete3r would read all parallel component resistance.

For the resistor if it has color bands, then you can compute the value it should be "Just google resistor color code.
More politically correct way to remember it, but forg, think it uses rum
Bad ........0
Boys ...... 1
Rxxx....... 2
Our ........ 3
Young .... 4
Girls ..... 5
But ........ 6
Violet .... 7
Gives .... 8
Willingly ..9
Silver 1/10 or 10%
gold 1/100 0r 5%

If not allow, mod please delete, hat to violate any rules

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a b ) Power supply
a c 326 G Storage
October 27, 2011 1:36:29 AM

The load resistance on the drive's 12V rail is around 9 ohms. That's not quite a short, but it's definitely much too low. Snip the pins of D4 with flush cutters and then measure the diode out of circuit. Also measure the resistance between the copper pads on the PCB. This will confirm whether the diode was the culprit. Resistor R64 is measuring OK.

If D4 was the reason for the low resistance, then the drive should work without it, provided there is no additonal damage on the PCB.

If the drive still doesn't spin, then connect it to your motherboard and try again. You may not have access to your data (due to encryption), but at least you will isolate the USB-SATA bridge board.
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December 9, 2011 7:19:22 PM

I snipped out the D4 diode the mount base measures on the DMM 1 . I am also measuring the removed D4 diode the readings for the D4 diode are in one direction 10.2 and with the dmm probes reversed 10.2 ( I read the the juice should only flow in one direction- not sure if that indicated a bad diode)

I also reassembled the hard drive with the D4 removed ( nothing in its place) and powered it up using the correct power supply- The led light flashes once and then goes off It does not activate the hard drive-

So there I am - I am still a novice at this and appreciate your advise

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a b ) Power supply
a c 326 G Storage
December 9, 2011 7:43:18 PM

The diode is definitely faulty. Either your drive has additional damage, or there is damage on the USB-SATA bridge board. To isolate the latter, you need to connect the drive to a desktop motherboard and PSU, or install it in a third party enclosure. AIUI, Elements drives are not encrypted.

Before you do anything, confirm that there is no short (or low resistance) at the copper pads of D4 on the PCB. You could also check whether +12V and +5V are appearing at the SATA power connector in your enclosure (with the drive removed).

See http://pinouts.ru/Power/sata-power_pinout.shtml

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December 11, 2011 4:21:58 PM

fzabkar said:
The diode is definitely faulty. Either your drive has additional damage, or there is damage on the USB-SATA bridge board. To isolate the latter, you need to connect the drive to a desktop motherboard and PSU, or install it in a third party enclosure. AIUI, Elements drives are not encrypted.

Before you do anything, confirm that there is no short (or low resistance) at the copper pads of D4 on the PCB. You could also check whether +12V and +5V are appearing at the SATA power connector in your enclosure (with the drive removed).

See http://pinouts.ru/Power/sata-power_pinout.shtml


Ok,

I believe that I have tested the "copper pad of D4 ( I have used the DMM on either side of the connecting points of the D4 diode that i snipped from the PCB-) The reading I got from these points were 1 .

I am unclear what you mean by the second suggestion to "check whether +12V and +5V are appearing at the SATA power connector "

I do not have accesss to a desktop computer at the moment (that will change wityhin a week) . But could I accomplish the testing in a third part enclosure ( could you eloborate)

Also what do you mean by AIUI , Elements drive are not encrypted-- does this mean that I may be able to swap parts toa fresh Elements drive and get the harddrive to work? without losing the material on the old drive

I appreciate you time and help more than you know

Casey
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a b ) Power supply
a c 326 G Storage
December 13, 2011 9:52:26 PM

If the reading is "1" rather than "1.0", then this means that the meter has overranged on that scale. This means that there is no additional short circuit.

The USB-SATA bridge board has a dual transistor switch, usually in an 8-pin IC, that switches +5V and +12V power from the bridge board to the drive's SATA power connector. I'm asking you whether the switch is working. That is, I'm asking whether you can measure +5V and +12V at the input to the drive.

Here is the SATA pinout:
http://pinouts.ru/Power/sata-power_pinout.shtml

Essentials models have an Initio INIC-1607E bridge IC on the bridge board. This IC is responsible for 128-bit AES hardware encryption, whether or not you have set a password. If you connect a bare Essentials drive to a SATA port on your motherboard, then all you will see will be gibberish. Elements models don't have AES encryption, so your data will be visible.
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December 25, 2011 4:57:36 PM

[Merry Christmas and Happy Holiday- to all that have helped me on this project- I am slow at getting back to it - I try to decifer the responses before asking for more clairity- so it takes me a little longer-
But I wanted to wish everyone a great holiday, in the meantime!

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April 28, 2012 6:21:59 PM

fzabkar said:
The most common result of an overvoltage on a recent model WD external drive is a shorted 12V TVS diode.

Remove the HDD's PCB and examine D4, D3, R67, and R64 near the SATA power connector. D4 will most probably be shorted, and R67 may be open circuit. If so, then remove D4 with flush cutters, and flow a blob of solder over R67.

See this FAQ:
http://forums.seagate.com/t5/Barracuda-XT-Barracuda-Bar...
http://community.wdc.com/t5/Desktop/HDD-TVS-diode-FAQ/m...

If you need help in identifying the components, upload a photo.





Same Issue, I removed the diode d4 and still doesn't power up. Is it really necessary to place some solder over r67?
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a b ) Power supply
a c 326 G Storage
April 28, 2012 9:22:18 PM

In other brands (Seagate/Maxtor, Samsung, Hitachi, Fujitsu/Toshiba) there is a device (eg fuse, resistor, polyswitch, inductor, zero-ohm resistor) in series with the diode. When this device goes open circuit, then power to the board is interrupted. I always thought that WD boards were the same, although the resistor is at the ground end rather than the supply end. But now I'm not so sure. I have seen one WD board with both TVS diodes and zero-ohm resistors vacant (from the factory), and it still functioned as normal. However, this board was a different design.

All may not be not lost, though. If your board has a chip at U12, then simply transfer it to a donor PCB. Otherwise, if U12 is not populated, and if the MCU is not dead, then the following PCB supplier may be able to transfer the "adaptive" information for you:
http://www.donordrives.com/blog/pcbswapguide

"If you cannot find a ROM chip, and are working with a Western Digital hard drive, then it is likely imbedded in a main controller Marvell chip. That chip is extremely difficult to solder, and most of the time experts do not have success with it. Our company offers Free PCB Adoptation Service to customer who have made a purchase from our store. The new PCB will be reprogrammed to work with hard drive, with no soldering including in the process, whatsoever."

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May 5, 2012 6:48:51 PM

This Kase again-

I have not proceeded with further testing on the WD Elements 500 gig Hard-drive- because of confusion over the last suggestion-also I did not have access to a PC - to test the device-

Would you still be willing to give me suggestions?

As always I appreciate your kindly help.

Kase
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a b ) Power supply
a c 326 G Storage
May 5, 2012 8:19:32 PM

@Kase, since you have removed the short circuit and the drive still doesn't spin, then you need to eliminate the USB-SATA bridge board as a potential culprit. To this end you should connect the drive to a SATA port on your computer's motherboard, or install it in another (third party) enclosure. If the drive still doesn't spin, and assuming it is not programmed to Power Up In Standby (PUIS), then you will need to replace the board and transfer the serial flash memory chip (U12), if your board has one. If PUIS is enabled, then the drive should still be visible in BIOS, but you may not see its full model number and capacity.
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May 8, 2012 2:23:11 PM

OK - thank you- my hesistation was the SATA testing - that really confused me- and I was afraid to short it out beyond further repair- - So my question is - will placing the hardrive in a PC will not expose the drive to 18 volts?
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June 22, 2012 10:23:13 PM

Hello Retired Chief,
My apologies if I should not be butting in to this thread, but I have done exactly the same thing! Disaster.
I have looked at the photos, and my board is exactly the same as the one on Kase's drive.
I have checked the resistances and they are as follows


Pins 1 - > 3 Open
Pins 4 -> 6 0 Ohms
Pins 7 -> 9 open
Pins 10 & 12 0 Ohms
Pin 11 open
Pins 13 -> 15 4 Ohms

For 7 Pin Data Connector:
Pin one is farest away from 15 Pin Pwr connector.
Pins 1, 4, & 7 = 0 ohms
Pins 2,3,5,& 6 = Open (=>20 Megohms.[/quotemsg]

Do you think this might indicate a faulty diode which I could just remove, please?
I would be very grateful for your assistance.
Many thanks,
Richard Black.
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July 5, 2012 2:11:26 PM


Hi Richard,


This is Kase- Just to add a little to the thread- I have removed the diode , as recommended, and had no change- the testing I have done so far is still with the hard drive case- I have not tried the unit in a pc- I am a novice, and have a lot of my reference and project photos on the hard drive so I have proceeded very cautiously- and very VERY SLOW-

For my self I am not sure on how to test the pins - as you have-

So I am still hoping to resurrect the drive . but am very nervous about damaging the drive via a mistake in following the very kind advice this board has provided- I am not afraid to admit my inexperience in all things realted to this issue.

Again thank you for your interest and my hope is sucess for all.
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July 5, 2012 2:25:46 PM

Hello Kase,
Thank you for the update. I am in just the same situation as you. I am wanting to move slowly and avoid losing the data on the drive, which everyone tells me should be fine. How did you remove the diode? people seem to suggest just cutting it off. I was a little worried about damaging the board.
Thanks again,
Richard.
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July 6, 2012 10:30:22 PM

Its not too hard- i used toe nail clippers- fazakbar suggested side cutters - those are available in any really good tool store- or electronics store- even harbor freight- - the connectors are really easy to snip , just line up one side with the cutter pararel to the solder then snip- then lift the diode up to get a better shot at the other side- it might even fatigue off- Be careful to not tear the circuit board material ( i have seen pictures , not pretty)
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July 6, 2012 10:32:23 PM

my bad on the spelling "fzabkar"
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July 8, 2012 7:30:33 AM

Thanks very much again.
I will give it a try today. Got an empty drive ready to start copying data.
fingers crossed.
Many thanks,
Richard.
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July 8, 2012 4:26:26 PM

Thanks Richard- Maybe you can clairify something for me and help me out- i have removed the diode, as recommended, but I am still having a problem in testing the pinout- can you clairify the instructions located in this thread- also I I believe that after that the next move is to place the drive into a PC motherboard life in internal hard drive, as opposed to a self contained remote harddrive- is that correct?

Thanks in advance
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September 17, 2012 10:25:33 PM

plugged 19v laptop power into my 12v external drive.
same WD green.

going to bring my pcb to a tech
from what i have read D3 D4 R64 R67 need to be tested.

the drive can be run with D4 snipped out. and R64 or R67 jumpered.

can i please be informed once again what the correct reading on D3 & D4 should be?

also if R64 or R67 have to be jumpered..

thank you.
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September 19, 2012 6:41:47 PM

Kase are you ever going to plug this in a pc and see if it works.. i am waiting to clip diodes out of my pcb to see if it works.

when are you going to place it in a pc and power it up?
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September 29, 2012 12:38:47 AM

Hi klugardo,

Honestly I am scared to do it - I fear that it may damage it beyond repair- as my last post infered. I have snipped the diode and attempted to power it up in the external hard-drive case no change- still did not work.

However, I am still confused as to placing the drive into the motherboard of a desktop pc-
Do I just plug it in as if it were a internal hard-drive without any further modification ?
Is there any way of matching up a working printed circuit board to attempt a rebuild of the ehd as it is?

Like I said honestly I really would like to retrieve the info in the drive and have been extremily patient to make sure that I do not loose it completely
Any thoughts
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a b ) Power supply
a c 326 G Storage
September 29, 2012 9:10:02 AM

@kase, your external drive is an Elements model which means that it is not encrypted. All you need to do is to replace the HDD's PCB (and transfer its "adaptive" data), and then connect it to a SATA port inside your desktop. The most that this should cost you would be US$50.

A photo would help ...
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November 17, 2012 5:15:43 PM

fzabkar said:
@kase, your external drive is an Elements model which means that it is not encrypted. All you need to do is to replace the HDD's PCB (and transfer its "adaptive" data), and then connect it to a SATA port inside your desktop. The most that this should cost you would be US$50.

A photo would help ...


Hi all,

Ok I am including a link to the last photo I took of the PCB- please bear in mind that I did remove the diode as per your suggestion- still no lights or sounds from the Hard - drive- Your last message indicates that I can indeed replace the PCB - That is interesting and I would attempt that - just a few questions however, my research indicates that it can be tricky since you must find a pcb that was manufactured close to the date of the existing one- is this correct? Also can i perform this kind of operation with basic knowledge and tools that I have used so far? And must it be placed in a desktop or can it be placed back in the external HD box and used as an external drive ?

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/708/bigcircuitboar...






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a b ) Power supply
a c 326 G Storage
November 17, 2012 5:49:55 PM

These pages explain what is required when swapping PCBs:

http://www.donordrives.com/blog/pcbswapguide
http://www.donordrives.com/hard-drive-pcb-donor-swap-ma...
http://www.donordrives.com/services

In your case you would need to move the 8-pin chip at location U12 (below the Marvell MCU) from patient to donor:
http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/3863/bigcircuitboard...

The following PCB suppliers offer a firmware transfer service, either for free, or for US$10:

http://www.donordrives.com
http://www.onepcbsolution.com
http://www.hdd-parts.com

Onepcbsolution.com also offer a firmware transfer service for US$20 if you have purchased your board from a different supplier:

http://onepcbsolution.com/firmware-xfer-without-pcb.htm...

You can install your Elements drive inside your PC, or you could install it in another enclosure.

It does appear that the PCB in your enclosure may also have sustained damage. Could we see a photo of it? I suspect that there may be damage to an 8-pin dual MOSFET IC. WD uses these MOSFETs to switch +5V and +12V power to the drive. If this chip is damaged, then there is a very good chance that the drive will work when attached to a SATA port inside your PC.
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November 23, 2012 1:51:42 PM

Great I will look this over and post another picture- Thank you
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March 4, 2013 3:08:22 AM

so what did he do? did you get it running?did u rescue your data?
I have the same WD elements 500gb hd that just died on me, no lites, no sound. Pcb# 2060-701640-007 rev a
I tried a sata to usb Adapter Cable with Power and still got nothing.
I've been reading a lot trying to figure out how to get this thing powered up to rescue my data and then trash it!
I can't remove the old pcb til I get the right tool, my 4 way screw driver doesn't work. Please don't laugh at me guys.
I'm about to buy a replacement pcb but can you explain what you meant by "adaptive data" do I request this when buying the pcb.

Thanks
Mary
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May 13, 2013 7:50:03 AM

Hi, my name is Asael, this is my first post here. And i really expect your help.

I have a WD 500 GB manufactured in may 21 2009. The model is: WD5000AAKS-00D2B0.

This drive was working perfect, and suddenly just stop, with little smell for burning.

I decided to take off the PCB and I found a diode blown out. Is the D3 (I'm attaching a photo)

http://imageshack.us/a/img850/3166/p1040289p.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img692/774/p1040291s.jpg

I have read about taking out this diode (I think is the 5V) and by-pass the R64 and R67.

Do you have any idea about this? Or Is better to send it to professional help?

Many thanks,
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a b ) Power supply
a c 326 G Storage
May 15, 2013 4:32:02 PM

If you have a multimeter, then test R67. If it is open circuit, then there is a real chance that the preamp inside the HDA may be dead. :-(

For more detailed help, including assistance with a fiirmware transfer in the case of a board swap, I recommend the following data recovery forum:
http://malthus.zapto.org/
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February 8, 2014 12:50:30 PM

This is not an answer, but a plea for ideas. I did the same thing as Kase with the laptop power supply. The drive would not power up at all. I read all the advice on this thread, but rather than digging into the diodes, etc. I bought a used exact model, confirmed it works, and replaced both the USB-SATA bridge and the PCB on the bad unit. Now it powers up and spins, but is not recognized. I suspect the the original USB-SATA bridge is OK, because it works with the new unit. The PCB does not work with the new unit, so I suspect that is bad. Is there some type of encryption? Any ideas for next steps would be appreciated.
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a b ) Power supply
a c 326 G Storage
February 8, 2014 2:04:12 PM

A PCB swap won't work for the reasons that I have explained. Instead you need to "dig into the diodes".
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February 8, 2014 2:16:22 PM

fzabkar said:
A PCB swap won't work for the reasons that I have explained. Instead you need to "dig into the diodes".


Thanks for the quick response! I will do it. (And use the new unit as backup when I get this one working!)
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March 9, 2014 11:26:04 AM

fzabkar said:
A PCB swap won't work for the reasons that I have explained. Instead you need to "dig into the diodes".



Fzabkar - Thanks a million! It (snipping D4 and solder on R64) worked and I was able to recover all my data.

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August 20, 2014 7:23:04 PM

fzabkar said:
If you have a multimeter, then test R67. If it is open circuit, then there is a real chance that the preamp inside the HDA may be dead. :-(

For more detailed help, including assistance with a fiirmware transfer in the case of a board swap, I recommend the following data recovery forum:
http://malthus.zapto.org/


Fzabkar: You seem very knowledgable on this subject and so I need to ask you this. I have a WD 500GB Essentials External Drive. My drive fell and hit the ground. The USB port on the case broke and as such I can not transfer or the drive does not show up at all. I know for a fact my drive spins up and powers up. I went to the trouble of buying a direct copy of my external drive for $60 only to find out we had been scammed basically. I swapped the Sata to USB board and it worked for 2 minutes until the drive and everything shut off. If I put my old Sata to USB board on the drive it powers up and runs just fine but the USB port is broken. Can I just get another SATA to USB PCB Board and put it on my drive. I put a password on it and I know the password but I was curious if I could just buy the exact model USB Board and it work. It's a 4060-705059-001 Rev A.
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August 31, 2014 8:54:54 PM

fzabkar said:
If you have a multimeter, then test R67. If it is open circuit, then there is a real chance that the preamp inside the HDA may be dead. :-(

For more detailed help, including assistance with a fiirmware transfer in the case of a board swap, I recommend the following data recovery forum:
http://malthus.zapto.org/


Hi fzabkar!

It´s been a while, honestly I was afraid of loosing my data, most because the majority where memories for my child. But anyway, after a year I decided to do something.

First I checked the R67 and there was no open circuit, then I thought I'll have to give it a shot.

And I did it. I remove the D3 diode y by-pass de R67 as you can see in this photo

And I have no words to thank you for this, because it worked, and I was able to recover all my data!

So again THANKS :ouimaitre: 

Just a note for someone else with the same problem: while I was doing with the recovery I've always monitor the voltage from PSU especially the 5V line. Because I read that in the next over voltage will kill my HD forever. Also I noticed that, after an hour or two the HD start making a funny noise, a very little and subtle ticking. Then I wasn't able to recover anything, I mean the recovery process keep going but the files in the new HD were filled only with zeros. So I had to unplugged and wait to cool down and restart the process when I was last time. I did this until I get back all of it :D 

P.D. Sorry for my little english
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!