Swiftech D5 Pump Housing Custom G1/4 Threads question

Uh, you did what? Are you meaning you had to slip your 3/8" tubing over the 1/2" barbs?

Why did you do this instead of go with the same ID tubing and fittings all-around?

rubix_1011 said:

Uh, you did what? Are you meaning you had to slip your 3/8" tubing over the 1/2" barbs?

Why did you do this instead of go with the same ID tubing and fittings all-around?

Continuation of this thread: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/273634-29-mcp655-radeon-hd6990-questions

@OP: Putting the pump inside a housing won't cause any problems - I've been running my 655 using Koolance's mount and the Primochill Myriad dual bay-res (which is a piece of garbage in terms of ease of setup).

Cheapest, most sensible option.
buy 1/2" id tubing
Moto

Is this one of those instances where someone will keep asking questions until they get the answers they want?

Quote:

But will it have any bad effect like...restriction or something like that ?
please help me with this thanks!

No, but it's a pain to get these on and depending on how much force it actually took, you can crack the pump housing by forcing the tubing on. People that run smaller tubing on larger ID fittings usually use 7/16"ID tubing on 1/2"ID barbs or 3/8"ID tubing on 7/16"ID barbs...a difference of 1/16"ID...not 1/8"ID.

Tubing is cheap- save yourself the headaches (and future arthritis) by getting the correct tubing ID size for your loop.

I think he's planning to use 3/8" ID barbs on the housing since you can't remove the 1/2" ID connections on the stock pump housing.

@ rubix, boiler+modo - i think its one of those zombies tha ask question to stay alive.

@ OP - no need for pump housing, get the right sized tubing - answer to question in first post.

i know of getting smaller ID tubing to have a snug fitting on the barb to eliminate the use of clamps but...the OP's method will, as rubix mentioned, crack the pump housing

boiler1990 said:

I think he's planning to use 3/8" ID barbs on the housing since you can't remove the 1/2" ID connections on the stock pump housing.

Yeah, that was also my understanding, but there are better ways of doing this, like using a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer ($1 or so from any hardware store). You use a couple inches of tubing, but make the butt of the 1/2" reducer touch the 1/2" inlet or outlet of the D5 pump so the flow is immediately funneled in or out and then run your 3/8" tubing straight off of there.

Totally agree with getting the right sized tubing.

You can get the EK X-Top D5 though to replace the stock wet end if you want to use compression fittings to connect the pump. But its not cheap like $40-$50.