My setup w/ questions.

before i go about answering your newbish ques, heres a few diagnostics  

1| want to cool everything in your case?
2| how are you cooling that i7 with only one 120 rad?
3| take a look at the WC'ing sticky in my sig

now for your answers:
1| they will be connected off the PSU molex - the pump at least, while you'll have the fans on a fan contorller. you'll need a fan controller as different rads have dif heat dissipation. dont daisy chain fans off of one header. you "might" pull it off but if you don't your mobo will go kapow.
2| answered in 1 above

edit: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/03/09/laing-ddc-1-ddc-... it has a 3pin connection, http://www.mega-labs.com/dc12400_page_4.html
- simple google search in 2 mins

i asked you to read the sticky cos you need to understand the TDP of your components and the sort of fans you'll need.

* to kill any hopes of watercooling - have you tried changing the TIM on those coolers to see if they run cooler?

watercooling is anything but a silent treatment to heatware

hope these help!

I'd already reviewed the sticky as well as other sites and their recommendations. To answer your questions. 1. Not right now. Its just if i'm going to fork out the $$ now, i would like a little longevity for upgrades(quad or trifire setup)eg 1300W rad. 2. I have no idea, like I said it was pre built this way(found a good deal on a used alienware). Cpu-z says its max TDP is 130w It has the pump integrated on to the cpu waterblock and the rad above it with a fan that pulls air out of case. I want to say it sits at 43c at load but its been awhile since i tested it. I know it works so that is good enough for me right now. I have no plans to mess with it. If i did i would just upgrade to a 2011 LGA (which with this setup i would only need a cpu water block, minus new mobo+ cpu) . lol i actully deleted some info from my original post to try to get to the point. But the cards OC'ed atm to 1.175mv 900mhz clock 1375mhz memory clock. The two cards with the oc thats on them are 620w TDM, and would like to Oc further but not on air. I could take the sides off let fan blow in and cards still reach 100c at max load before i turn it off. VRM though stays a nice temp. But I cant keep the cards at 100% load for longer then 20 minutes. And a decent stress test should be 24 hours. Thermal degradation(and im pretty sure failure) on these is 105c. I've also read for each block you have you should have 2 rads per block. So 4(qaud rad) for both cards. But basically what your saying is to get a fan controller and plug the pump and the controller into the PSU molex.

pump on mobo - did you look at the links?

i'll assume that after 2mins of stress the rig shuts down...so if your cards can only sustain that oc for 20 mins it means two things:
1| you have bad case airflow
2| that is an unrealistic overclock for that card

what brand is your psu?

The pump is on the water block for the CPU. It looks very similar to a Corsair H60, u can google that if you want, I'm sure you can find some pic's in 2min, not sure why your interested in it though as the CPU has no heat issues what so ever.. But it came with the computer, so that's whats there. The rig doesn't shut down as i don't let it reach that temperature. Case airflow is fine, the real issue is that the 2 x16 PCIe (the ones that actually run 16x) slots that are on this mobo are set right next to each other. So there is virtually no room for the card on top to suck in air as the fans are on the underside of the card. The OC is perfectly fine. I run it on air all day long with no issues (monitored of course). Heat only becomes an issue once both cards reach 90% load for an extended period of time, at that point it begins to lose the battle against heat and the fans becomes less effective. Anything below 90% and stock fans works fine, its just extremely loud. I realize that water cooling is not completely quite, the added pump and the fans will both produce noise. But not at the level of these fans at 100% I only have one program (game) that maxs out my cards and I don't really play it that much atm. Which is one reason why i am water cooling. That and so i can push the card a little further, as i think i can get another 5% - 10% out of it. As far as what brand the the PSU is i don't know, it came with the rig. Whatever one Alienware bought, de-badged and shoved in there so who knows.

Are you meaning a 1080 or a 1260?

It sounds like you have airflow issues...if you cannot run your cards under load for more than 20 mins without over heating, this is a prime indicator that you have an airflow problem

Pull the side of your case, blow a house or desk fan on high into the side of your case, run benchmarks, etc as usual. Note temps and time it takes to reach your previous temps.

If you have the exact same thing happen in this scenario, then you have a cooler issue with your hardware. If you do not, you have an airflow issue that needs to be addressed.

Yeah it's advertized as "The copper core HX-CU1320VS provides an approximate 1300W of added heat dissipation when coupled with four 120mm fans.

Pull the side of your case, blow a house or desk fan on high into the side of your case, run benchmarks, etc as usual. Note temps and time it takes to reach your previous temps. = not sure how to do a nested quote but stated in my second post = "I could take the sides off let fan blow in and cards still reach 100c at max load before i turn it off. VRM though stays a nice temp."

Regardless I had already determined that air was not a viable cooling solution prior to my original post for cooling these cards as in my first post i said i ordered the parts. So the fact that you guys keep going back to air cooling is pointless and it is slightly frustrating. But anyways. Have a nice day <3

okay, then if thats the case - read the links i posted - answer given, thread solved.

bye bye

P.S: streetmonger - might wanna show some gratitude to people trying to help you get your watercooling experience right.

Then no, this is a Koolance rad, and that performance claim is rather skewed. I don't agree with their advertisement, as most users aren't going to run 3000 rpm fans to achieve this cooling level, and even then, it's a very questionable claim to dissipate that much from those radiators.





I'll restate- your case airflow is not fine if you have this issue. You apparently are not willing to listen to any kind of discussion as to why your initial plan is flawed.



I'm not sure the sarcasm and passive-aggressiveness is really warranted here. You are really missing the bigger picture of your issues...no one ever has said to go back to air cooling- we've offered some ideas to help you address your current cooling issues and to prevent others...there is a very important reason for doing so. Good call on your part to ignore this.

anytime

as expected of a person trying to "watercool" in a dell badged alienware case+components.

 

Must have simply been a flame/troll thread based on OP responses.

then ...

Sorry, I guess I just don't have patience for people who want their egos stroked but don't know how to connect fans and a pump. I had every intention of helping, but I wanted to know a bit more background information...I guess that isn't acceptable in a society of 'give me what I want right now, dammit'.

Seriously, who considers using MB headers for rad fans and a pump? Even if it's a MCP35x, you'd still use CPU_FAN for PWM, anyways. Apparently Google is broken for some people, and when it is, so is common courtesy.

Sorry I missed this one, I feel I could have contributed here,
Moto

I was working on it, but without knowing the background and plan, it's hard to completely evaluate if everything is taken into account.

@ modo - contribute away...  

To add- I've also done some calculations on those Koolance rads that claim 1300 watts...even with Skinnee's benchmarks on almost identical 360 rads and scaling them to 4x120...they only scale around 800-900 watts, even with very, very high speed fans. I'd like to see the data and testing to backup this marketing claim.