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Xspc rasa 750 screws dont fit?

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  • Water Cooling
  • Overclocking
Last response: in Overclocking
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a b K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 4:44:52 AM

Hey guys,

i have just begun my first foray into water cooling, and it isn't going so well. i bought the XSPC rasa 750 RS240 kit, since it seemed easy enough, but im not sure if im either being stupid or if its shipped with the wrong parts. Basically, the long screws that came with it dont actually fit to mount the radiator/fans. after a lot of cursing i finally amounted the radiator using some small screws, but now i have no way to mount the fans!
Am i missing something. the kit only came with one set of long silver screws, and they are to thick to fit through tthe threads in the radiator. any help appreciated, as this is doing my nut in.

More about : xspc rasa 750 screws dont fit

a c 190 K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 4:51:55 AM

Are the long screws long enough to go through the fans and hold them to the rad?
I think thats what those ones are for, and am grateful I have an extensive parts bag hehe
The small ones can hold the rad to the case/legs,
Can you throw some pics up?
Moto
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a b K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 5:56:00 AM

hey moto. turns out i WAS just retarded. the rad screws for some reason were separate to all the others in a tiny piece of folded card. everything is installed now.

when i first filled it up, i had a minor leak because one of the barbs wasn't attached tightly. panicked, but a little twist and it seems to be fine now. everything is actually in the system now, and im not comfortable leaving it out of my sight while i leak test. ill let it go for a few hours, and as long as there are no other leaks ill turn it off tonight and resume in the morning.
there are lots of small bubbles trapped against the walls of the tubing though. and no ammount of tapping seems to shift them. any tips?

EDIT: here's a pic:

since i already have the mobo powered, i may put the gpu back inand hook it up to my monitor in a sec. resume leak testing while its hooked up. kinda defeats the point i guess, but i cant remove it all now.
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a c 190 K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 8:02:55 AM

You did rinse the tubing (as well as all other components) out before installing I assume?
Just a case of wait tap, tap, tap cry wait tap I'm afraid, try rotating the case as much as you can, make sure res and everything is secure though first :-)
Glad you got sorted with screws man
Moto
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a b K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 8:12:14 AM

Yeah, most of the bubbles have gone now. I think there were so many because of the leak i had caused the pump to push a lot of air through the loop at first.
looking much better now, although the mounting was a bitch and i had to resort to externally mounting the rad.
For now I'm just using distilled water as i couldn't get hold of any anti-microbial. When i get a hold of some should i just drop it straight in, or bleed and rinse it first?
Also, im assuming i don't need an anti-corrosive as everything in the rasa kit is copper?

lastly, a questions about positive air pressure. at present those top fans are acting as exhausts, and im wanting to switch them to better cool the rad. Should i switch both to intakes, as well as the rear exhaust, and then switch the front intakes to exhausts?
Or would it be okay to have just the one exhaust with the rest as intakes? I'm assuming that buildup of positive pressure wouldn't help, but can't find a definitive answer.
I also have a side panel 120mm hole which i may populate to blow cool air to the GPU.
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a c 190 K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 5:02:13 PM

If you do get some Pt nuke or other algae killing gloop, just put the recommended amount (1-3drops?) into the loop, no need to flush the whole loop unless you wanted to for practice maybe :p 
I always say additives are builders choice, I run water and a coil no additives (I do have UV cathodes on two of my resses though)
If you want to swap the fans, how about mounting the fans inside the case blowing out, and the rad on top, fans push through the rad on the way out and you can add two more on top later if/when you wanted to
keep the front as intake, and don't worry about the sidepanel until you have some reference temps to work from
how else would you know if the sidepanel change was effective? :) 
Moto
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 6:40:44 PM

Quote:
how about mounting the fans inside the case blowing out, and the rad on top,
thas how i'd have gone - push or pull, but with the rad just sticking out like chargers hood engine scoop :) 

nice to see another watercooler amongst us. what'd you upgrade from? an H series?
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a c 190 K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 8:09:59 PM

^Op wants them exhausting so it would be acting as push on the rad, I'd also cut out the mesh covered by the rad so as not to affect the airflow
Moto
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a c 337 K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 8:41:28 PM

This thread is exhausting.

See what I did there?

:) 

(hint: screw threads, radiator fans exhaust...nm...)
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a c 190 K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 8:51:20 PM

Need more beer Rubix? :-)
Moto
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 8:52:35 PM

lol screw threads!

sigh - yeah i was saying either push or pull - exhaust + rad.
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a b K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 8:56:11 PM

nice one rubix. If there's one thing we need more of on this forum, its puns.

I can't really put anything on the inside cause this case ins't as well designed as i had thought (in fact, i may replace it soon).
the water tubing holes and the mobo 8 pin, and cpu fan connectors would be obstructed if i install anything internally. I could however install a couple of slim fans internally. Nut from what i understand, having low power fans inside and higher power ones outside creates too much static pressure? which is bad?

I had already considered removing some of the mesh paneling. But another weird drawback on this case is that the top mesh mounting holes dont actually line up with a 120mm rad. so i'd have to only cut part of it.

and i came straight from air cooling. i had a Frio OCK previously.
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a c 337 K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 9:00:42 PM

Motopsychojdn said:
Need more beer Rubix? :-)
Moto



Still at work...haven't had one yet...so, to answer truthfully, yes I need more.

beer > no beer

It's 5 o'clock somewhere and in fact...it's 5 o'clock right here, right now.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 9:01:42 PM

hmmm - might want to look into the corsair carbide 500R :)  ?

there's something about the P bend going into a rad that makes me melt :p 
If your going to use the fans you got, then leave them be. but if your going for a new set - try scythe's AP-14's or shoot for higher, like sanace's if you have a fan controller.

mind you they'll be a noisy bunch!

@ rubix- its 5am where i live :) 
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a c 337 K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 9:09:27 PM

I didn't specify AM/PM...both are quite appropriate depending upon scenario.
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a b K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 9:20:08 PM

Sorry to inundate you all with questions, but i have another. If i can't get a hold of 7/16 tubing, will either 1/2 or 3/8 work with my current barbs?

My country truly does suck, and it seems that there is no 7/16 tubing anywhere. I really want some color in this thing.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 9:22:02 PM

newp! need appropriate barbs for the corresponding tubing dia - in the sticky!

so 6 barbs with 6 hose clamps of the corresponding size and the length of tubing
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a b K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 10:46:44 PM

Yeah thats's what I thought, was hoping there was some way around it. annoyingly, i just did an order on frozenCPU since they ship internationally, and stocked up on barbs and clamps of the same size.

I might just give in an use some dye.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 11:06:07 PM

careful there now, we all don't like the sound of dyes in a loop as in due time it'll break down/clump up. If it clumps up, it'll do so in the tightest of spaces - in your blocks. so you'll see your temps go from bad to worse.

if you search the watercooling section, you'll find a thread about how to color tubing using dyes and hot water. that way you have dyes but not flowing in your loop.
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a b K Overclocking
March 7, 2012 11:26:59 PM

That sounds like a much better idea. After seeing some of the dye outcomes I wasn't really wanting to go with that.
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a c 337 K Overclocking
March 8, 2012 1:04:36 AM

Quote:
If i can't get a hold of 7/16 tubing, will either 1/2 or 3/8 work with my current barbs?


Quote:
newp! need appropriate barbs for the corresponding tubing dia - in the sticky!


Well...this is somewhat true. While we typically suggest using the same size fittings and tubing, you *can* use slightly smaller tubing; in this case, you have 7/16" fittings and could use 3/8"ID tubing. However, if you do this, you'd need to soak the tubing ends in hot water for a few minutes prior to pushing them onto your barbs. For the hassle of a first timer, you can spend $2 per barb and get the size you want...likely 1/2" for the tubing you want. There is minimal difference in flow rate performance of tubing sizes of 3/8"ID, 7/16"ID and 1/2"ID.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 8, 2012 3:39:28 AM

i always think the 3/8 are larger than the 7/16ths :/ 

sorry my bad
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a c 337 K Overclocking
March 8, 2012 2:06:06 PM

No worries- at a quick glance, you really have to think about which is which. For a beginner, I'd suggest spending the money to get the right sized barbs and tubing. Barbs are pretty cheap compared to compression fittings, so this is why I suggested that as an option.
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a b K Overclocking
March 9, 2012 5:47:08 AM

Unfortunately cheapness isn't something i get to take advantage of from here in NZ.

the only place where i can seem to find any decent water cooling stuff is horrendously priced. tubing itself is 20 dollars a meter. That would be fine, except they don't have 7/16.
i was thinking about changing out the fittings to 3/8 barbs, but the fittings will be 12 dollars a piece. so the cost of tubing and fittings means im paying around 100 nz dollars. i only paid 260 for the rasa kit itself.
i can import from frozen cpu, but when the package hits a certain weight, the packaging cost skyrockets. its totally impractical to import tubing. I could import the replacement barbs, but the minimum international shipping cost is 15 us dollars, and i would be waiting two weeks for it to arrive.

still mulling over my options at the moment, but it seems getting colored tubing is going to be far more expensive. it seems it would actually be more cost effective to just use dye and change all my components if performance drops...

EDIT: I was just looking at the page for the rasa kit from the site i bought it from, and it seems to imply it actually uses 1/2 barbs?...
Obviously, I'm still easily confused by this but does this mean that the barbs it comes with were actually a different size than the tubing? and does this also mean that 1/2 tubing will work fine with the current fittings?

here's the link: http://www.computerlounge.co.nz/components/componentvie...
Quote:

2 Meters of Clear 7/16? Hose
- G1/4? to 1/2? barbs x6


the site in question only has 1/2 and 3/8 tubing. so with the current barbs will the 1/2 work without the risk of a leak?
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