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Visiontek 6950 non reference, what waterblock?

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March 8, 2012 5:55:33 PM

I am looking to get back into watercooling, and I am unsure as to what waterblocks will fit my video cards. The cards are Visiontek 900352, 6950 2GB, non reference, and I am running them in crossfire. if you do a search, it is the one with a fan in the middle with NO heatpipes and a blueish PCB (They apparantly released 3 versions of the 900352, ref, red PCB with heatpipes on the cooler, and mine) . Needless to say, the stock cooling sucks; I aborted a benchmark when one of the cards hit 100c, the other at 95c.
The PCB is marked as C20501, which according to the Swiftech site, is not compatable with their Komodo block (wasnt really interested in that anyway. It also looks like, based on PCB numbers, I share the PCB Design with the HIS IceQ X Turbo X H695QNX2G2M Radeon™ HD 6950 2GB and the HIS H695FN2G2M Radeon™ HD 6950 2GB. Does this matter? and if so, would a 6870 reference block work for me? I would like to stay away from a gpu block with passive ramsinks and stuff if possible. Thanks!
a c 78 K Overclocking
March 8, 2012 6:05:39 PM

if its non reference, you'll need to go for a universal water nlock for your setup. have you dug up on google and other sites to find anything to narrow down your list?

if its non-reference, your 2nd best shot would be going uni+cooling with passive heatsinks if there are no blocks made for your card.
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March 8, 2012 6:11:02 PM

It isnt a reference 6950, but my homework has dug up that some 6950's use the 6870 reference design. The two HIS's I listed, unless I am mistaken, are compatable with the 6870 reference cooler (according to EK's water set-up utility). Since no one has listed the Visiontek (and the fact that there are 3 of them with the same model number), I am only 80% sure that the 6870 blocks will also work on mine. As I dont feel like dropping over $200 on something that might not work, I would like to be a little more sure that it would work.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
March 8, 2012 6:16:34 PM

I have also heard of some of these strange reference card compatibility concepts as well...I'd like to say that these cards were some of the ones mentioned and confirmed, but I cannot validate without looking it up, myself. nVidia also has some strange reference/non-reference PCB designs that fit different cards, but I have really only heard of a couple in the last few years.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 8, 2012 6:19:04 PM

if it checks out on the site - then guns away. BUT ! a word of caution - wouldn't hurt to drop a question over at EK's site.

may i know what else you'll be running?

i ask because if you're using distil+silver in your loop - you might run into the nickel plating/chipping issue faced by many over the last year(if the blocks are nickel plated). i dunno how its turned out now since the beginning of 2012 but they are instructing users to use corrosion inhibitors aka coolants in any loop containing their products which are nickel plated EN or no EN.

adding coolants is just a silly way to waste money and fill their coffers :) 
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March 8, 2012 6:25:42 PM

I havent decided on the rest of the system yet, but thanks for the warning with the nickel! Most of the EK blocks appear to be plated, so I will look into what to add/not add, heh. The only thing I am dead set on is not including aluminum in the build.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 8, 2012 6:29:32 PM

* welcome

Quote:
The only thing I am dead set on is not including aluminum in the build.
:)  okay you're learning...

check out:
watercool
XSPC
aquacomputers

if they offer the likes of what EK is doing - i think they will - very often the same thing takes rounds in other brands(+prices)
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a b K Overclocking
March 8, 2012 7:48:53 PM

abfox said:
I havent decided on the rest of the system yet, but thanks for the warning with the nickel! Most of the EK blocks appear to be plated, so I will look into what to add/not add, heh. The only thing I am dead set on is not including aluminum in the build.


I believe all "Nickel" waterblocks are nickel-plated (Nickel's thermal conductivity is 4 times lower that Copper's). EK's had some weird issues, and I owned a new "Electroless Nickel Plated" block. I got weird deposits/spotting on the block which turned out to be nothing, but I had to mail it to Slovenia and that ended up taking a month (guessing the package got lost).


This is something you'll get in the box if you buy one. It seems like a total crock (doesn't make much sense as to how these non-reactive substances would cause corroding), and I didn't like the way EK's independent test results were done when these issues were first reported/identified.




After using these I switched over to the Swiftech MCW82 and it does quite well. It's easy to assemble, cheap to upgrade, and works as well as the EK blocks did (which were very good). Although they don't look as nice, they still do a great job.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 8, 2012 7:56:31 PM

wow, thanks boiler! never seen this op up on the realraider site...or i think i missed it if it was posted ;) 

total bull crap on EK's part. though for people in the states, that realraider guy does plating for a good price and an excellent finish on it as well. He'll redo it for ya if you're not happy with it :) 
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March 8, 2012 8:31:43 PM

Thanks for the input regarding the nickel, seems like the plating is still going through growing pains. That will definitely impact my choice in coolers. Back to the topic at hand though, lol, any more input on something that will fit? swift techs gpu only and their big heart sink look the most promising so far...
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 8, 2012 8:33:23 PM

did you check out the 3 other brands i mentioned?
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a c 324 K Overclocking
March 8, 2012 8:33:23 PM

Just to clear up something a bit, all these metals actually can corrode, but since they are very similar, the process is incredibly slow and minimal. However, that being said, there shouldn't be an issue with corrosion with nickel plated on copper. Other manufacturers do not have this problem, yet EK does? Sounds like a faulty plating process (plating is pretty simple) or they are using questionable products.

Quote:
swift techs gpu only and their big heart sink look the most promising so far...


Swiftech's universal block and those full cover heatsinks...that what you meant?

http://www.swiftech.com/gpu_heatsinks.aspx
http://www.swiftech.com/GTX560-TI-HS.aspx


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March 8, 2012 8:46:54 PM

On my phone now, but yes to the swiftech links. I looked at the other 3, but confirmed compatibility is still my question. Too many different 6950's out there now, lol. Thanks again for all your help!
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March 9, 2012 12:56:31 AM

Here is a shot of the pcb wo the heat sink if that helps. :3
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March 9, 2012 12:29:12 PM

OK, After some homework and some PCB "spot the changes", I think I have my build narrowed down. What do you think of this?

TIM: MX-4
CPU Block: Watercool HEATKILLER CPU Rev 3
GPU Blocks: 2x EK Radeon HD 6870 VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Acetal (thinking of getting the backplates too, I hope these work...)
Bridge: Ideas on a good bridge? or just tube it?
Rad 1: Black Ice GT Stealth 360 X-Flow Radiator
Rad 2: Black Ice GT Stealth 120 X-Flow Radiator
Pump: Laing DDC 3.2
Res: Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 (or similar)
Tubing: Tygon R1000 (12")
Coolant: Feser One F1 Cooling Fluid
Fans: 4x Noctua 120mm
fittings: enough Bitspower 1/2" barbed to do the job

Set-up: Single Loop
Pump->CPU->Rad 2->Vid 1->Vid-2->Rad 1->Res->Pump
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a c 324 K Overclocking
March 9, 2012 12:42:13 PM

Quote:
Coolant: Feser One F1 Cooling Fluid


Uh....no. Feser One is one of the worst when it comes to breaking down.

Quote:
Rad 1: Black Ice GT Stealth 360 X-Flow Radiator
Rad 2: Black Ice GT Stealth 120 X-Flow Radiator


You realize these are ~30 FPI rads, right? They will do fine with medium speed fans, but are designed for medium to high speed fans to get the most potential.
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March 9, 2012 12:51:51 PM

OK, so no Feser F1, any other low resistivity premix you recomend? or just distilled plus something?

Scythe 88CFM's do the job? dont want it too loud, lol.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 9, 2012 12:54:11 PM

distil+something will kill your watercooling dream cos the nickel will chip/corrode on them EK GPU blocks(if its nickel plated via EN or non-EN process). AP-12~AP-15 for fans

you sure about the blocks? doesn't heatkiller offer the same block ?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12899/ex-blc-896/Heat...
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March 9, 2012 1:05:33 PM

Hmm, ok, new list.
TIM: MX-4
CPU Block: Watercool HEATKILLER CPU Rev 3
GPU Blocks: 2x Watercool HEATKILLER GPU-X³ 6870 for ATI 6870 (If the EK fits, I assume this will too)
Bridge: Ideas on a good bridge? or just tube it?
Rad 1: Black Ice GT Stealth 360 X-Flow Radiator
Rad 2: Black Ice GT Stealth 120 X-Flow Radiator
Pump: Laing DDC 3.2
Res: Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 250 (or similar)
Tubing: Tygon R1000 (12" )
Coolant: ???
Fans: 4x Scythe Gentle Typhoon D1225C12B5AP-15
fittings: enough Bitspower 1/2" barbed to do the job

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a c 324 K Overclocking
March 9, 2012 1:09:51 PM

Quote:
OK, so no Feser F1, any other low resistivity premix you recomend? or just distilled plus something?


What do you mean? Electrical conductivity? This is why we leak test prior to turning a system on. And any fluid that claims to be 'non-conductive' is only so for about 15 minutes- after that it has been picking up ions and particulate from blocks and rads, so it becomes conductive anyway. After several days...there's no way it's still completely 'non-conductive'.

This is marketing hype and an attempt to make newcomers feel better about their watercooling investment. However, they'd be disappointed if they had to actually test out all these fluids on electrically-live gear.

Do it right and you shouldn't have to worry about leaks. And if you have any, you've done the right thing by leak testing first. I've done this for 10 years and had 1 leak- and it was my fault for not setting up and testing well.
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a b K Overclocking
March 9, 2012 1:35:47 PM

I think the reason EK is saying to use premixed coolants is because all of their testing has shown issues with distilled water, and oddly enough they didn't test a premix when they issued that report I talked about. I could go on and on about how poorly that report/experiment was conducted...

I would personally just stay completely away from the EK nickel blocks entirely. You shouldn't have any issues with copper blocks because these blocks are solid copper.

I hope you mean you're getting 12 FEET of tubing and not 12 INCHES ;) 
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 9, 2012 2:04:27 PM

you might want to check the Prolimatech PK-1 tim - cost the same and performs better than MX-4.

@ OP -
Quote:
Watercool HEATKILLER GPU-X³ 6870 for ATI 6870 (If the EK fits, I assume this will too)
mail heatkiller and confirm this assumption :) 

1| get extra tubing - better to have some left over than run short and order again.
2| match up your tubing and barbs - you could go tighter tubing on that barb - but its about aesthetics+your feel of the loop.
3| You can find the brigde for the heatkillers on frozencpu.
4| could also go for a theme since your going heatkiller(and if the blocks check out fine on your PCB) like all copper.

@ boiler - yeap , that had me going on like the energizer bunny until most people came to realize this issue+testing methods.
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March 9, 2012 3:25:47 PM

Lol, yes, I plan on 12 feet. I have some spare from my old setup if 12 isn't enough.

The heatkiller website and forum is all German! I hope they understand my email!

Most of the bridges seem to be a 3 card space. with water, I was going to try for slot 1 and 3 (recommended 2 card setup on the Maximus) giving me 2 card spacing. For the bridge, I was thinking one of those sliding tube set ups.

Will check out the pk-1, sounds good!

only question remains after I confirm fitment with heatkiller, what fluid to use? Or will that be another great debate?

From pricing alone, I was leaning away from frozen and thinking peta, unless there are any serious complaints?

Thanks again all for your help!
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a c 100 K Overclocking
March 9, 2012 3:29:29 PM

Most of the time at least with CPU blocks they are copper internally anyway, as is most radiators (or brass). IMO go with full copper, though as stated nickel coating shouldn't really be an issue. Just avoid aluminum.

Also, maybe it's not your style but a top res for the pump is all you need, at most. Alternatively you can just get a T fitting and fill port.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 9, 2012 3:56:05 PM

heatkiller only makes copper blocks for their lineups in GPU. only the CPU+ Chipset (NSB block) come in various flavors and is available in nickel plating which also is buggy.

so the GPU's i linked and the ones OP has found are copper, no plating. so there isn't the slightest of issue with corrosion.

@ OP - if you run google chrome, google translate should've kicked in. + yeah they will reply in english - DOH!

if you've read sticky, you'll find a list of e-tailers to get your wc'ing stuff.

fluid - distill ofcourse, your using copper for the entire loop - btw the heatkiller nickel plated cpu block is dodgy - get the full copper flavor.

Quote:
those sliding tube set ups.
huh? you mean rotary fittings?
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a b K Overclocking
March 9, 2012 3:58:08 PM

Until companies can re-earn my trust in their nickel plating processes, I'm going full copper from here on out.

I must say EK's blocks are good, just not their nickels ;) 
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 9, 2012 4:01:02 PM

realraider also showed off heatkillers nickel issue as well - they look like rust instead of chipped/flaked granules.

+1 to the HF blocks

Edit: yeah the copper is not EN :) 
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March 17, 2012 1:17:07 PM



Perfect thanks!
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a b K Overclocking
March 17, 2012 1:40:09 PM

Did you have to do anything extra to make it fit or did it just screw right on?
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March 17, 2012 1:56:11 PM

Nothing extra, perfect fit first time. I saw that some of the 6870 blocks had an extra screw hole that my card didn't have, but the heatkillers didn't have a spot for it anyway. Overall I am pleased with how it worked!
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March 17, 2012 5:06:49 PM



Build in progress, sorry just had to.;-)

All fixed up, can close the thread unless anyone else has questions
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a c 324 K Overclocking
March 17, 2012 9:12:24 PM

Fixed your tags; closing thread." alt="" class="imgLz frmImg " />
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!