General LGA 2011 Cooling Advice and H100 Questions

Not strictly over clocking - more cooling questions, though aim does include future ability to overclock.

I have a 3930K and soon to be delivered ASUS Rampage IV Extreme motherboard.

On my previous ASUS Gene-Z board (1155) I used the Cooler Master V8 solution but had issues with RAM modules not working. I followed some advice and re-seated the CPU and things were better but not 100% and thought that maybe the V8's weight wasn't helping (Antec 1200 case).

So for my new build (same case) I thought I'd try the H100 (already purchased but can be returned) - but have a couple of questions:

1) My PCs generally run 24/7 is the H100 likely to last?
2) If for some reason it failed, given that there is no heatsink to compensate even for a short while - is the CPU likely to fry?
3) Would air-cooling be better (Noctua NH-D14), system is being used more for software development and 3D rendering - but wanted a well-rounded setup-up which will include over-clocking (moderate) - if so is there a good way to relieve the stress caused by over sized CPU cooling - on the Gene-Z I resorted to building Lego towers to remedy this.

As someone who has never water cooled I'm not not too keen on the idea on water cooling kits but this may just be because I'm making assumptions and that am simply ill informed.
12 answers Last reply
More about general 2011 cooling advice h100 questions
  1. If you are looking for 24/7 in a long term environment and you aren't going to be doing much or any overclocking, a good air cooler might serve you best. I've been running full-fledged watercooling loops for about 9.5 years and I'd continue to do so, but I am not one that would believe in that kind of longevity in an H100. They are likely tested and suitable for long term use, but again, this is just my opinion. However, regardless of the solution you use, you might also choose to use RealTemp to monitor your CPU and/or GPU temps. You can set it to run at startup and set threshold temps where the system will execute a shutdown script to prevent system damage. This is what I do, and most people running watercooling do...for any reason we may have an issue, a temp spike would immediately shut down the system and can be set to any temp you choose.

    Also, take a look at the watercooling sticky in my signature below. It might help you some, and it might be more than what you are looking for. Either way, let me know if you need any additional help on the subject or with configuring RealTemp or even CoreTemp if you use that.

    Moving this to the watercooling forum for you.
  2. Hey, thanks for the reply - I had returned the H100. Ended up ordering a Noctua NH-D14 SE2011.

    I checked the link, however nothing there put my mind at rest about leaks - natural born worrier I suppose. That coupled with my need to have my system running for very long periods puts and end to my water cooling consideration for now - though at a later date I may give it a try.

    Last time I consciously tried to overclock was on a Pentium P120.
  3. Watercooling can be a very viable, long term solution, but I would only recommend that with much higher end components rather than an H100. If you really wanted to go that route, I would suggest a better setup than the H100, but not to say that it wouldn't be possible. I am of the firm belief to use either a great watercooling setup, or a very good air cooler- not much in between.
  4. Appreciate that, the H100 was only intended to fill a void initially. If you were going to start from the beginning today what would be on your list of must haves?
  5. The H100 vs NH-D14, IMO the H100 is the better choice for example: 1. Cleaning, 2. Dust, 3. Heat off the VRM's i.e. airflow, 4. Looks. The NH-D14 is within 1C and looks like a lawnmower engine and blocks VRM airflow i.e. now your VRM will overheat and you're worst off.

    I have both a fully blocked system and an H100, and depending on the vCore, neither is a problem to cool the CPU. Duh, my Koolance is better.

    Currently, running an i7-3930K 4.8GHz @ 1.4v vCore and the H100 is never above 70C. Similarly, a Koolance with a 3x120 + CPU-370 or CPU-370SI in the mid 50's. However, considerable more cost.
  6. Quote:
    Currently, running an i7-3930K 4.8GHz @ 1.4v vCore and the H100 is never above 70C. Similarly, a Koolance with a 3x120 + CPU-370 or CPU-370SI in the mid 50's. However, considerable more cost.

    Almost an apples to oranges comparison. The flow rate of the pump on a Corsair unit is pretty weak and even lower-end watercooling kits like the XSPC Rasa using the 750 X20 are much better overall for almost same dollar-to-dollar cost.
  7. ^I put the temps 'out there' for comparison sake. The thing that's going to damage the SB-E isn't the temps like most folks incorrectly assume, it's the vCore and VCCSA. I don't particularly like seeing anything >70C~75C because the spikes in temps that you don't often 'see' are going to be too high and cause instability.

    The XSPC Rasa is say 'substandard' and in most cases won't fit with the vast majority of cases due to the VRM's on the X79 top positions. If you're considering the XSPC Rasa then spend the few bucks and either EK or Koolance. Measure and make certain it all fits.

    While, to a point, I appreciate 'fat' radiators they impede airflow so much that you defeat their use and require hearty aka noisy fans to push/pull air. I prefer 20 FPI radiators and 10mm tubing; most folks want 13mm/30+ FPI exchanges, and a plethora of 'bigger' is better mentality. Then they cannot figure out why their temps and noise is sub-par. In addition, thermally controlled (good) fan controllers. If you have a good loop(s) and everything is properly setup and configured often the fans don't even need to spin unless there's a high load.

    I avoid this section like the plague to avoid 'contests'...
  8. I wasn't trying to start any kind of contest...I was merely suggesting alternatives for the OP. While I do agree with the choice of EK or Koolance (although non-nickel plated EK regardless of their fixes) you are looking at a more significant investment. I meant to toss out similar solutions for similar price.

    I also agree with the idea of thicker rads, lower FPI and lower speed fans, although I prefer larger diameter tubing.
  9. The larger diameter tubing decreases the pressure to the blocks and doesn't improve flow, it's counter intuitive. The 6mm has the highest pressure but restricts too much and is harder on the pump(s). Frankly, the water circulates so fast that folks assume a lot albeit incorrect about a lot. I've over years have tried it all (except exotics).

    Clunk has excellent guides, here's his on Water Cooling - some of it I agree with while other points I don't. I think he was trying to keep budget in mind.

    I am not too budget minded when it comes to custom loop(s) - quality first, I only like compression fittings, quality pre-mix vs do it yourself, separate reservoirs, MOBO blocks vs hodgepodge, etc.
  10. Small diameter tubing is overly restricting when you have a pump that is capable of higher flow rates. When you have a pump with lower flow rates, smaller diameter tubing is usually better to also improve pressure. Most current CPU blocks use restrictors and nozzles anyway to increase pressure at the point of water contact against the internal surface, so tubing size isn't really an issue when you have a block designed in this manner. The majority of the remaining components benefit from higher flows which is why you often see a CPU block immediately after pump outlet- highest amount of pressure is here for the high-restriction of these blocks.

    You should honestly visit this forum more often- I like the approach you are's nice to have other people with differing opinions and design concepts. I know I haven't seen you on here but a few times here and there; but we'd enjoy your input more.

    I've seen that sticky from Clunk before...I actually think I have a link to it in our WC sticky. It has a lot of info outlined in's some good stuff.
  11. Koolance an EK both did studies on tubing. Their conscious and mine are the same; use 10mm tubing. Sure on low flowing often cheap or all in ones use smaller diamenter tubing. Koolance -

    Use whatever diameter flips your flag. Koolance, EK, myself, other professional builders -- we cannot all be wrong.
  12. I'm in agreement: anything from 3/8"ID to 7/16"ID to 1/2"ID is going to net you about the same results. I know that Koolance and EK market their pumps that are mainly 3/8"ID (10mm) so I can definitely see their stance with these claims. However, using both 3/8"ID and 1/2"ID, the smaller tubing size is easier to route and setup inside a case, but my D5 pump is native 1/2" and I haven't had space issues for quite a long time.

    Koolance and EK also seem to follow the European concept of watercooling; more restriction, lower flow, smaller diameter. Aquacomputer also falls inline with these engineering concepts. It's a bit different than in the U.S. where higher flow and tubing size are important...although neither is right or wrong; it's simply about how you decide to design your loop and the components you wish you employ.
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