New Build - No Monitor/Display. - No boot? - No Fun.

[orangearmlessmonkey]

Hey all,

I just built my first system (yeah!). It doesn't like me (ugh). Frankenstein had this problem as well I guess.

In a nutshell, I've followed the motherboard instructions to the "T." I even had fun doing it. This goes here, that goes there; really pretty simple, foolproof stuff. Or so it seemed to me. I turn on the computer, no video. No display.

I've read this and followed it; http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-posting-boot-problems
I found this (and other postings) but the power cords are hooked-up correctly; http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/271265-31-build-video-monitor-stays-power

What I've done so far:

So I unplugged, checked, and replugged in everything (memory, cpu, gpu, power cords). I disconnected the hd and cd to focus on the primary system. Still no boot/display.

- Power: Everything is plugged in and getting power. Motherboard phase LED's light up completely (full power). Fans whirl. HD chugs. CD Rom opens. The video card. Well, the video card is getting power but is acting odd. Like a car reving it's engine the fan on the GPU slowly pulses between a slower and faster fan speed. The weak link?
- Memory in DDR3_1 and DDR3_3 per manual. Tried one and two sticks. Could these be bad? Can I do a simple boot without the memory?
- GPU is secure; tried two different PCI slots. Has it's own power cord. Using the VGA-DVI adapter that came with the card.
- CPU, ok? I can't really tell. How do you tell?
- The LED display works fine; I use it with my laptop. Just doesn't work with the new build.
- Speakers. I don't hear any beeps. Can't find a speaker in the mobo manual. No speaker I guess? Tonight I will pull one from an ancient computer I have and connect it. The beeps can be decoded from what I understand? What might I learn?

My problem is that I am capable enough to build it but not enough knowledgeable enough to understand where the problem might lie. For me, it could be that any one thing, or maybe all, are bad and need to be replaced. Or I missed something. But I went over everything again and again.

Thanks for the help guys. Tom's has been an awesome resource for someone new to this.

Online mobo manual: http://america.gigabyte.com.tw/FileList/Manual/mb_maunal_ga-p55-ud4p%28ud4%29_e.pdf

Specs. All components are compatable:

AZZA Solano 1000 ATX Full Tower
GIGABYTE GA-P55-UD4P LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel Motherboard
OCZ Obsidian 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
SAPPHIRE 100283L Radeon HD 5770 (Juniper XT) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0
Antec TruePower New TP-750 750W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.3 / EPS12V V2.91 SLI Certified
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F1 HD753LJ 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache
Intel Core i5-750 Lynnfield 2.66GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor (Micro Center)
Acer Display

 

[shortstuff_mt]

Are you 100% sure that the 8-pin CPU power connector near the CPU socket is firmly plugged in?

 

[overshocks]

^First of all your links don't work, remove the period at the end.

"- Memory in DDR3_1 and DDR3_3 per manual. Tried one and two sticks. Could these be bad? Can I do a simple boot without the memory? "

You cannot boot without RAM, why don't you try it yourself and find the answer instead of asking it here, wasting your time and ours. No offense.

Can you specify your situation with more details(eg. voltage on RAM)

Did you overclock, or is this at stock settings?

 

[orangearmlessmonkey]

I've read about this on the other postings. Yes. When I took the cpu and stock fan apart I saw that the thermal film on the bottom of the stock fan had melted. That would mean it's getting power, right?

 

[shortstuff_mt]

Not necessarily. The force of the HSF pressing down on the thermal paste will spread it out. Did you perform the breadboarding step in the checklist to rule out a short?

 

[overshocks]

Not necessarily. The force of the HSF pressing down on the thermal paste will spread it out. Did you perform the breadboarding step in the checklist to rule out a short?

^He said melted, I'm assuming it's more than spreading it out, so therefore the CPU is being powered.

Put your hand close to the side fan of the CPU, is it warm?

To OP: You didn't answer theses questions that I had

"Can you specify your situation with more details(eg. voltage on RAM)

Did you overclock, or is this at stock settings?"

 

[orangearmlessmonkey]

^First of all your links don't work, remove the period at the end.

"- Memory in DDR3_1 and DDR3_3 per manual. Tried one and two sticks. Could these be bad? Can I do a simple boot without the memory? "

You cannot boot without RAM, why don't you try it yourself and find the answer instead of asking it here, wasting your time and ours. No offense.

Can you specify your situation with more details(eg. voltage on RAM)

Hey, how can I "try it myself" when I can't boot the system in the first place? That makes no sense.

And more details? How much do you want? I could go on forever with details.

Check out my posting on the new build. The links on Newegg have the full specs. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/273659-31-agony-choice-budget-build-noob-help

"So here is the final purchase:

AZZA Solano 1000 Black/Black Japanese SECC Steel/Metal mesh in front ATX Full Tower Computer Case

GIGABYTE GA-P55-UD4P LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128400&Tpk=GIGABYTE%20GA-P55-UD4P

OCZ Obsidian 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227495&Tpk=OCZ%20Obsidian%204GB%20%282%20x%202GB%29%20240-Pin%20DDR3%20SDRAM%20DDR3

SAPPHIRE 100283L Radeon HD 5770 (Juniper XT) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102858&Tpk=SAPPHIRE%20100283L%20Radeon%20HD%205770

Antec TruePower New TP-750 750W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.3 / EPS12V V2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371025&cm_re=Antec_TruePower_New_TP-750_750W-_-17-371-025-_-Product

SAMSUNG Spinpoint F1 HD753LJ 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6822152100

Intel Core i5-750 Lynnfield 2.66GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor (Micro Center)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115215&Tpk=Intel%20Core%20i5-750%20Lynnfield%202.66GHz

 

[shortstuff_mt]

I know he said melted, but thermal paste that's just been smashed can also look "melted".

 

[orangearmlessmonkey]

^He said melted, I'm assuming it's more than spreading it out, so therefore the CPU is being powered.

Put your hand close to the side fan of the CPU, is it warm?

To OP: You didn't answer theses questions that I had

"Can you specify your situation with more details(eg. voltage on RAM)

Did you overclock, or is this at stock settings?"

Ram voltage is 1.65V. I don't know enough about computers to even attempt overclocking. This is my first build guys. Sorry, I'm learning.

Breadboarding. Sort of building in stages? I think I need to get a speaker working before I can do that well. I will try tonight.

If there is a short, how will I know?

 

[orangearmlessmonkey]

I know he said melted, but thermal paste that's just been smashed can also look "melted".

Definitely melted. The stock Intel fan has a solid film on the back of it. "Thermal interface material" as Intel put it. I looked it up on their website when I couldn't find any thermal paste with the cpu kit. It melted, spreading out.

 

[shortstuff_mt]

Breadboarding is building the system with the motherboard outside the case on a non-conductive surface to rule out a short.

 

[overshocks]

Breadboarding is building the system with the motherboard outside the case on a non-conductive surface to rule out a short.

^Also, building it step by step, using the a separate motherboard(that you know works), installing new parts onto it, and testing each part, to figure out if any of them are bad.

 

[orangearmlessmonkey]

^Also, building it step by step, using the a separate motherboard(that you know works), installing new parts onto it, and testing each part, to figure out if any of them are bad.

Here's the problem. I have no good parts. The newest parts I have aside of what I just purchased are from 2000.

I've been on the road for over four years for work and fun. The only computers I've had over that time are laptops. My last tower was a custom build in 2000.

Now that I'm home for good I decided to build my first computer so I can get caught up on the last five years of games I've been missing. I'm trying to learn about this stuff but it's frustrating.

Breadboarding didn't make sense to me because building it in or outside the box is no different... unless you have two systems where you can test individual parts. I can't do that.

 

[overshocks]

"Breadboarding didn't make sense to me because building it in or outside the box is no different... unless you have two systems where you can test individual parts. I can't do that. "

Well, there is a difference, outside the box saves you a lot of time. Also, easy to put in parts, connect cables..etc

 

[shortstuff_mt]

Building with the motherboard on a non-conductive surface will rule out a short as your problem. One standoff in the wrong place can cause all sorts of problems. You did use standoffs between the motherboard and case, right?

 

[orangearmlessmonkey]

Yes I did. Although, I thought this was odd but it's how the case is built; of the nine screw holes in the motherboard standoffs only fit in 5. The other four screw holes are raised parts of the case.

See the sixth picture on the Newegg image gallery showing the side view and you can see four raised holes on the case. Two in the center and two between the red wire for the fan and the back of the case. I screwed the motherboard into them.

Does that make sense?

Case:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811517004&Tpk=AZZA%20Solano%201000
Picture:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ImageGallery.aspx?CurImage=11-517-004-S11&ISList=11-517-004-S01%2c11-517-004-S02%2c11-517-004-S03%2c11-517-004-S04%2c11-517-004-S05%2c11-517-004-S06%2c11-517-004-S07%2c11-517-004-S08%2c11-517-004-S09%2c11-517-004-S10%2c11-517-004-S11&S7ImageFlag=1&Item=N82E16811517004&Depa=0&WaterMark=1&Description=AZZA%20Solano%201000%20Black%2fBlack%20Japanese%20SECC%20Steel%2fMetal%20mesh%20in%20front%20ATX%20Full%20Tower%20Computer%20Case

 

[orangearmlessmonkey]

I attached an old speaker to the mobo. When I hit the power a rapid beep continues for six seconds, stops, then repeats. It didn't sound good. I took out the RAM, same sound.

 

[shortstuff_mt]

What does your motherboard owners manual say the beeps mean?

 

[aford10]

A: The following Award BIOS beep code descriptions may help you identify possible computer problems.
(For reference only.)
1 short: System boots successfully
2 short: CMOS setting error
1 long, 1 short: Memory or motherboard error
1 long, 2 short: Monitor or graphics card error
1 long, 3 short: Keyboard error
1 long, 9 short: BIOS ROM error
Continuous long beeps: Graphics card not inserted properly
Continuous short beeps: Power error


Which of these fit what you hear?

 

[orangearmlessmonkey]

aford10 and shortstuff_mt Thanks!

It does say in the motherboard manual (aford10 mentioned) "Continuous short beeps: Power error." But from what I can tell I've set up the power cords correctly! The board is getting power. The cpu power cable with 8 pins is attached, snapped in place. And the 6 pin cable (PCI-E) is attached to the gpu, snapped in place. All seem to be getting power. The psu is plenty big at 750w.

I'm at a loss here...

 

[orangearmlessmonkey]

Son of a $#!@&%. I just reinstalled all the cables and the memory and, I'm so embarrassed...I'm in the bios. I'll let you know if all is good. In a bit.

Thanks for taking the time to hand hold me.

 

[aford10]

Try resetting the BIOS by pulling the battery for like 1/2 hour, then replacing.

Make sure the RAM is in securely. The tabs on the side should click when they are all the way in.

 

[orangearmlessmonkey]

Try resetting the BIOS by pulling the battery for like 1/2 hour, then replacing.

Make sure the RAM is in securely. The tabs on the side should click when they are all the way in.

Just to wrap this one up, the problem wasn't the connections . It was bad ram. One of the two sticks turned out to be bad. All is working great with one stick. RMA here I come.