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GPu block and some other questions

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a b K Overclocking
March 19, 2012 3:53:49 AM

Hey guys.

So i guess it was inevitable. I got my first watercooling setup (a rasa kit) and now I'm struck with the upgrade bug. As I'm very new to this i would appreciate some tips on what to get.

I currently have the rs240 kit, and want to add my gpu to the loop. To keep performance in line i will be getting an rx120 rad to help dissipate the extra heat. I am also getting the raystorm CPU block to replace the rasa.

I'm a little unsure about what universal GPU block to get though.
I was originally going to get the rasa GPU block, since it reviews favorably and is one of the cheapest to buy and ship. However,looking more into reviews it seems to be a high restriction block. Given I am using a relatively weak pump, would i be better going for something else? I was looking at the mcw82 from swiftech. It review almost as well as the rasa, but seems to be much lower restriction which i imagine would be a benefit in my loop.
I still don't really understand the numbers behind all this though, so i'm unsure.

I will possibly be getting a new pump somewhere down the line (i keep hearing different things about the rasa pump. some say its plenty for a multiblock setup, others say its rubbish. I will surely upgrade if it will make a difference, buit is it really necessary?), but the unlikely until i add a second gpu to my setup, so i wouldn't want performance to be hampered in the mean time.


Lastly, with cooling the VRMs when using a universal block, how careful do i need to be? I currently have a 120mm intake fan next to where the gpu will be, and will be getting some copper ramsinks. I was thinking i may also get a PCI slot fan like this to aid airflow and keep the VRMs from overheating. Is this overkill. it does add a fair bit to the overall cost of the upgrade, given international shipping.

More about : gpu block questions

a c 78 K Overclocking
March 19, 2012 10:35:34 AM

i can't remember what you have now in that case...could you post a pic of the innards?
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a c 324 K Overclocking
March 19, 2012 2:09:13 PM

Quote:
Lastly, with cooling the VRMs when using a universal block, how careful do i need to be?


There is a section in the watercooling sticky that addresses the needs for universal block additional cooling.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/265776-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky#t1906563

The Raystorm isn't going to be a large performance bump over the Rasa- both are similar blocks with the newer Raystorm being a little better. However, this is going to be pretty minimal for the end user...likely less than 1-2C at the very most.

I would say, skip the CPU block change, and use that money toward a better pump. This will help keep your overall costs down.
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a b K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 2:30:29 AM

So i currently have the rig in my signature with the rasa 750 rs240 kit.

I've read the sticky rubix, but it doesn't really alleviate my concerns. I know the vrms need to be kept cool, but what im really wondering is how much direct airflow is needed if overvolting .My only experience with an aftermarket GPU cooler involved virtually combusting VRMs because it only used little aluminum sinks. I'm buying copper, but im wondering if the PCI cooler would make much of a difference.

I see what you mean about the CPU block, the main reason i wanted to upgrade to it was given the relatively weak pump in the rasa kit, the lower restriction block might potentially see a bigger bump.
I see what you mean though, so i think io might instead get the improved xspc res/pump combo with the variable speed pump here. is it a big enough improvement to warrant the cost? ( I have the cash, but don't want to waste it obviously).

The other thing im thinking though, is frozen CPU has this kit. Now not only does it mean i get the pump, rad and block for less than i would pay separately, but i also get all th e extra fittings, barbs and fans i'd need. PLUS, the shipping for some reason is way less.

So im actually thinking I might get the above kit, plus a koolance rad mount for my existing rs240 to be mounted externally. plus the gpu block, ramsinks and pcie fan. altogether not too much cash, but a sizeable upgrade no?

EDIT: sorry, one more question. How does the single rx120 rad compare to the rs240? For the cost of the mounting bracket for my rs rad, i could just buy the rx rad. considering how much neater it would look, it seems like a good idea. I'm assuming performance wouldn't be too far decreased since the rad is dual thickness?

Also, that then means i can completely replace my current kit, and its much easier to sell off a complete kit than a few single components.
\
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 5:38:46 AM

you could actually sell the stuff separately without any issues.

getting the newer kit means future proof upgrade path - though it just means you have two near similar kits.

here's what i found:
Quote:
At close to twice the thickness of the RS series radiators it has excellent cooling capabilities and the sub 8fpi gives the radiator very low air flow resistance. The RX120 has been designed and optimised for low speed fans so it can offer high performance cooling at very low noise levels.

more here

and a review of V1 - http://skinneelabs.com/xspc-rx120-v1/

so if the RX is optimized to run at lower fan speeds and give cooling specs of a RS than at higher speeds - should be better than the RS.
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a b K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 6:03:02 AM

The problem is that I live in a small country with very few PC enthusiasts, so selling individual parts will be tricky.

I'm really unsure what to go with atm. the full kit looks very nice, but once i factor in the gpu block, ramsinks, pci fan, extra fittings and radiator it comes to $420, plus 133 shipping.
Now with the weak US dollar atm, that equates to a little more than a gtx580 in my home currency. that seems like a good deal, but its still a lot to spend on a loop.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 6:10:21 AM

where dya live mate?

* worst case scenario - you won't spend the money now. But don't let this info go to waste :) , save up some more and until then keep saving. The latter option of going with a full on D5 kit is a viable option as it's future proofed.
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a b K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 6:34:00 AM

New zealand.

Again, its not that I can't afford it. In fact, i have the spare cash sat there and im aching to spend it. but i never make these purchases lightly.
So the upgraded rasa kit with the improved pump you are saying is a good choice? I just want to be sure i'm not going to regret the purchase.

I have trimmed some of the cost but getting rid of the extra rad, as i think i'd be better off getting a radstand for my rs240 rad. I'm not entirely sure i can mount it though.
Urgh, such a tough decision.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 6:47:58 AM

again mate, we're trying to help you but one thing we try to do alot is produce what you want to see/use/work with, not the other way round. take some time, get a bit of fresh air and think a lil more.

Ian pooley used to go to new zealand to gather peace and inspiration to make his music...i don't suppose you're in a hard spot to do the same only Watercooling wise :) 

and i'll restate what rubix said:
Quote:
The Raystorm isn't going to be a large performance bump over the Rasa- both are similar blocks with the newer Raystorm being a little better. However, this is going to be pretty minimal for the end user...likely less than 1-2C at the very most.

I would say, skip the CPU block change, and use that money toward a better pump. This will help keep your overall costs down.


the pump is waht looks very lucrative and the option to get compression fittings+choice of colored tubing and i think theres an in house watercooling site that ships to austrailia and new zealand.

* if you're aching to spend it - you'd be hard pressed to find it wasn't worth it :/ 
** found it - http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPa...
*** i don't think they have the RX extreme kit.
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a b K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 7:47:17 AM

Sorry, i didn't mean for my previous post to come of as angry. I'm just not fully understanding this atm. I'm anxious to order the stuff as it will take 2 weeks to arrive.
You mentioned the d5 kit, but im not sure if that's the thing i linked or something else entirely. What i was trying to ascertain is if the extreme kit above has a pump thats considerably more powerful than the one i have. I really am trying to do the research, and considering i knew nothing about watercooling 2 weeks ago i think im doing well to even be able to identify restriction and pump flow.

All im really concerned about is cooling performance. I don't want to have to do much, if any, modding. and i play with headphones so noise is no concern. My case has a 120mm and 240mm position for fans/rads.

Basically, my main questions atm are if YOU had the cash available, and were using just a rasa kit, would you consider the extreme to be a worthy upgrade for the cash, or would you stick with what you have?
I dont really want to spend 700 dollars on a kit that's not going to net me much of a gain.

Buying from an aussie site is hardly worth it also. with the strong NZD and weak USD, its often cheaper to pay shipping from overseas.

what i think I might do so im not spending so much at once is to leave out the GPU block and related items, and just get the kit itself. once i have that set up i can decide where to go.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 8:18:18 AM

hmmmm - :/ 

Quote:
You mentioned the d5 kit, but im not sure if that's the thing i linked or something else entirely.
sorry i was a bit mixed up - but they are similar.

Quote:
Basically, my main questions atm are if YOU had the cash available, and were using just a rasa kit, would you consider the extreme to be a worthy upgrade for the cash, or would you stick with what you have?
well if you're asking me - i'd get the XSPC extreme VPP kit over anything as i can get much more for less.Since i like compression fittings+colored tubing. That pump is actually far stronger than what you're currently working with. But you're not me and I'm working on a themed, AMS WC setup so i didn't get compressions as the compressions would've conflicted with the rad i have ... might want to check out my build log in my sig as well :) 

plus getting another pump/bay res will only mean you have two pump/res' and eventually you'll be having two of everything.

sell the kit, get the RX240 extreme and replace your rasa as is. since the pump is storng - you can add more rads without worry/breaking a sweat. The latter would've happened eventually with the rasa kit X2O pump.

^ this is strictly my opinion as you will definitely have a dif view/setup.

Quote:
what i think I might do so im not spending so much at once is to leave out the GPU block and related items, and just get the kit itself. once i have that set up i can decide where to go.
a good idea, like stated above - when you're set, you can add more rads+blocks. though do remeber to bleed/fill properly.

sorry for all the migrane inducing details :p  ... but you'll thank me later.

Edit: if noise isn't an issue - select the 2250 yate loons.
if you want to turn them down, get a fan controller/ a pwm fan splitter that'll work off the cpu mobo header: here
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a b K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 8:34:19 AM

Ok thanks for the help, that's exactly what i wanted to know. I think i'll order the extreme kit, so ill just replace my existing setup in its entirety unless i can somehow make use of the rs240 rad somewhere.

I wasn't sure about the fans either, i was tossing up between thew 1650 and 2250 rpm. I've been told the 2250's are VERY loud. and while i do game with headphones, i cant imagine anything worse than being able to hear the fans OVER the headphone sound. But as you said, i can always get a fan controller if they're that bad.

anyway, thanks again for all the help. much appreciated.

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a b K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 8:34:34 AM

Best answer selected by welshmousepk.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 8:51:06 AM

PM me some pics of your setup/ add your build to the watercooling gallery and maybe post your build log.

thank you for the vote - but i hope its got you confident and moving ahead.
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a b K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 9:12:04 AM

thanks lutfij. I've decided that If I'm going to spend the money on a new kit so soon after my last one, I'm going to do it right and make sure its gonna be everything I need, so here's what I'll be ordering:


I think that should be everything I need.

The only thing concerning me now is clearance for the tubing from the gpu block. but ill cross that bridge when i come to it.

I will upload some pics when its all built, but it will take 76-14 days for the parts to even arrive.

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a b K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 9:23:09 AM

2 fittings for the GPU block, and 2 for my existing RS240 rad. I figure i may use compressions everywhere rather than a combination of barbsand compression fittings.

The reason i'm going with the koolance mount is that i can use it to externally mount my rs240 rad on my rear 120mm exhaust. I can then use both rads in the loop without any hardware modification (and form what i hear, this mount is very good for that)

as for the universal sinks, where would i look for those? I'm not sure If im missing some page on frozen CPU but ive had trouble finding a decent selection for cooling the gpu chips. I dont really want to go to another site and have to pay a tonne to ship some small items though.
It is annoying me though that the heatsinks to cool the chips are so expensive, is there a better way?

EDIT: oh, and the reason i want a universal block is that I upgrade GPUs very often. and will almost certainly be getting a keppler card when they become available in my country. seems like a waste of money to buy a full cover block now. even though it works out almost the same price after the cost of heatsinks for the ram and vrms...
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 9:33:13 AM

hmmm, the ramsinks - well you need to go through other sites to see them.

+1 to universals if you change cards like fresh clothes everyday :p  but yeah they are better than full covers. Erm ramsinks - well they can be sold later and some can be reused since the keplers have the near similar pcb layout...but we need to wait and see if that is possible as most people had a good time modding a bit of their sinks to amd's 79xx series.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/mciraho.html
one more thing, the radbox by swiftech is cheaper and capable of doing exactly the same thing like the koolance... and your xspc kit also comse with standoffs for the rad should you want to use it outside the case.

either this i think:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6475/ex-rad-124/XSPC_...

or this:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10347/ex-rad-179/XSPC...

so you're covered on all fronts - and you save that $56 on the radbox
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a b K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 9:48:16 AM

I actually already have some of those standoffs that came with the other kit. are they strong enough/offer enough support than i can mount them to a rear 120mm spot to hold a 240mm rad with fans attached? (without damaging the rad ofc)

that radbox confuses me slightly, im not sure how it actually works? :S does it go around a fan, or on top of it?

the main thing is i need to have enough clearance or the rad will block my gpu I/O
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 11:11:42 AM

Quote:
are they strong enough/offer enough support than i can mount them to a rear 120mm spot to hold a 240mm rad with fans attached?
yes - if they were crap, iwould've seen it/heard of it on the rasa cooling club on http://www.overclock.net/t/882408/official-xspc-rasa-75...

Quote:
that radbox confuses me slightly, im not sure how it actually works?
which ever way you want to mount it it'll get the job done+more...you get instructions with it and its easy to understand.

Quote:
the main thing is i need to have enough clearance or the rad will block my gpu I/O
i know about that, thas why the swiftech's come with nylon spacers. similarly achieved with that external mounting hardware you got with teh xspc.
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a b K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 11:26:43 AM

thanks lutfij, sorry about all questions. you've been very patient. i didn't realise the swiftech radbox came with spacers as they aren't mentioned on frozen cpu. but it certainly seems like a cheaper alternative so i will get one instead of the koolance.
im off to bed anyway. but thanks again for all the help.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 2:19:36 PM

You don't need a fancy bridge like that, you can just use barbs instead of compression fittings...this is all I do.

As for airflow over the RAMsinks, I've run RAMsinks on the last 6 sets of cards I've run in SLI with the same universal blocks. You don't need a tremendous amount of airflow to make them effective. The open air around the RAMsinks should help dissipate any heat that they are absorbing and getting rid of.

Swiftech universal blocks are a tad bit less restrictive, but likely not something you'd be able to notice or that would impact performance. Just go with your preference.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 2:39:13 PM

hmm was thinking the same about the bridge a while ago. :)  you posted it first.
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a b K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 10:21:54 PM

ok, thanks for the additional tips. I already have loads of 1/2" barbs so i can use a couple of those for the gpu block. trimimg two compressions saves a little bit anyway.

I keep hearing things about the the different reference 580s not having an IHS on the GPU. Am i right in saying that it doesn't matter at all with a universal block?
And also, does the ref 580 have an aluminum plate sink that can be left on after removing the fan and cooling chamber? I'm seeing it in some pic and not others.
would it even be worth leaving on if it does?

changing to the swiftech radbox and losing two compression fittings has brought me down to 392 total and 128 shipping.
with the weak dollar at the mo, that 520 usd equates to about 640 NZD. a much more reasonable amount than i originally had. though it still seems hard to justify. im sat here debating it with myself, and could hit buy at any moment...
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 10:57:33 PM

so many questions to a person who doesn't actually own a 580 :p , if you can compare it with the chart on the universal block manufacturers site...you can be sure. If not, rubix could get back to you or maybe do a google search and wait out on purchases for a while until you can be sure the uni's will work for you.

Quote:
and could hit buy at any moment...
better safe than sorry, don;t you think mate? :) 
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a b K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 11:42:36 PM

I do own a 580 (its in my sig?). its an evga model, but i don't want to take it apart until im ready to put it under water.
I know its a reference design, im just not sure if it has the IHS on the gpu. i know that it causes an issue with regular blocks because of the reduced clearance, but form whaty i can gather on forums is that universal blocks are no problem because the mounting system means you can adjust the height.

I went ahead and placed the order a moment ago after some last minute googling. I went with the koolance rad mount just because it doesn't add that much to the overall cost and i would rather be sure i will have no issues when it all arrives.

If i encounter any other issues, ill just tackle them one at a time. I'm spending so much time stressing on getting this order right when i know i would stress less at most of the problems I'm likely to encounter.

thanks for all the help anyway, my order has changed drastically since my first saved cart but im confident its a good setup that will work well.
I got a 5 percent discount on the order thanks to a discount code, and it also cost only 10 dollars more for priority shipping for 3-5 business days. so with any luck, ill have this all built by next weekend.

Pics to follow :) 
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a c 324 K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 11:45:00 PM

Quote:
I keep hearing things about the the different reference 580s not having an IHS on the GPU. Am i right in saying that it doesn't matter at all with a universal block?
And also, does the ref 580 have an aluminum plate sink that can be left on after removing the fan and cooling chamber? I'm seeing it in some pic and not others.
would it even be worth leaving on if it does?


Yes, you will leave it on if it exists. There are some 580's that have them, some do not. EVGA is currently one manufacturer that has done this, so you need to know which card you have in order to purchase a block for it.

I am unsure on universal blocks on a no-IHS 580 at this point, but it might depend partly on which universal block you choose. I have a question open with Swiftech on their MCW blocks for this exact question.
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a b K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 11:51:27 PM

Oh, and here are some pics of my current setup. I know its a bit late now but i finally got around to taking some so i thought i'd share.



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a b K Overclocking
March 20, 2012 11:54:22 PM

rubix_1011 said:
Quote:
I keep hearing things about the the different reference 580s not having an IHS on the GPU. Am i right in saying that it doesn't matter at all with a universal block?
And also, does the ref 580 have an aluminum plate sink that can be left on after removing the fan and cooling chamber? I'm seeing it in some pic and not others.
would it even be worth leaving on if it does?


Yes, you will leave it on if it exists. There are some 580's that have them, some do not. EVGA is currently one manufacturer that has done this, so you need to know which card you have in order to purchase a block for it.

I am unsure on universal blocks on a no-IHS 580 at this point, but it might depend partly on which universal block you choose. I have a question open with Swiftech on their MCW blocks for this exact question.


This is part of the reason i went with the rasa GPU block. its thumb spring mounting system should give it lots of movement and allow it to make good contact regardless.
I guess I will find out for sure next week though. If I end up not being able to put the card under water, i can keep the block for the Kepler card, so its still not wasted.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 21, 2012 12:10:00 AM

Quote:
I do own a 580 (its in my sig?)
re-read my post, i meant I don't own one so i can't tell.

good to see you're moving again. FYI - it took me a year of decision making and parts selection to nail my list of parts.
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a b K Overclocking
March 21, 2012 12:14:19 AM

oh sorry, mid-read. Sorry, its easy to forget that you guys don't know EVERYTHING :D 

I just hope that Kepler launches in my country at a reasonable price. 7970 prices are only just starting to settle, and i don't want to be stuck with a 580 for too long...
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a c 224 K Overclocking
March 21, 2012 9:24:36 AM

welshmousepk said:
i don't want to be stuck with a 580 for too long...


Well a water cooled 580GTX overclocked is quite impressive however you really need a full contact water block to really cool the bad boy because you have to cool the memory chips, no offense but those ram sinks are a joke, you have to also cool the VRs.

I'm going to recommend the Heatkiller water block because they claimed you could use Thermal Compound on the memory chips and you can, not the VRs you have to use the included thermal pads on the VRs, but the tolerance is so close to the memory chips I used Timtronics Grey Ice 4200 on the memory chips.

So you have an EVGA 580GTX is it a reference 1536mb card? I have 2 EVGA 580GTX reference design one with the IHS and the other without the IHS.

You need to pull the shroud 7 or 8 perimeter screws, then 4 screws to remove the heat sink to discover if your model is IHS or noIHS, it's best to check anyway just to reapply the thermal compound, one of my cards had excellent thermal compound coverage, the other looked like a monkey had applied it, checking that and properly applying the compound will improve it's cooling right there.

Once you discover which card you have and don't assume anything, then if you so desire you will know which full coverage water block to order.

Regarding a 580GTX stock air cooled at 23c ambient room temp it idled at 33c load at 80c, now I can control my water temperature so I allowed it to raise to 23c to match the ambient room temperature, with the Heatkiller block idle was 27c and load was 40c.

I really don't think there's anything else for me to say, except water cooling the GPUs opened new completely safe overclocking potential for them. Ryan

OOPS; Almost forgot just to make you fully aware if you did go the full coverage block change over, you have another 15 screws on the back of the card to remove the fan motor/ram/vr plate, and it takes a T7 torx to remove those screws.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
March 21, 2012 12:46:58 PM

Yeah, I don't know if any universal blocks will correctly work with an non-IHS GTX 580...my question to Swiftech must have been sent to null...they still haven't responded.

If you have the cash to drop on a 580 (or 2) you should seriously consider full cover blocks anyway. Those things pump out so much heat, you really want to ensure they stay cool.

Either way, pulling the stock cooler and applying better TIM is always a good move.
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a b K Overclocking
March 21, 2012 10:57:56 PM

Thanks for the tips. The problem is that I upgrade GPUs A LOT. I will be getting a 680 as soon as they release in my country, so a full cover block now seems pointless. If I get a 680 and decide the universal block is not doing what i need, i may get as full cover for it. But buying a full cover for a 580 now seems like throwing money away as i probably wouldn't be able to sell it on.

I'm not going to bother taking off the shroud until my watercooling stuff arrives. It should only be next week.

The universal GPU block just seemed like a a good idea, because i can keep it forever and use it if i ever can't get or don't want as FC block.

For now though, im not too concerned about the vrms on the 580 with the universal block. Considering they normally only have aluminum heatspreaders and i'll be using copper. and direct airflow won't change much since im going to rig up as couple of slim 120mm fans to blow at it. I can't imagine the cooling could be that much worse than the stock heatsink.

EDIT: oh and yeah, my card is the evga 1536mb OC version. pretty much a reference card.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
March 22, 2012 1:58:06 AM

Got a reply from Gabe at Swiftech (Gabe is one of the main dudes over there)

Quote:
Hi There,

Thank you for your interest for Swiftech products.

I can certainly help you with this.

Non HIS: Yes, it should work. You’ll need this kit and do not use the spacers. Be careful to tighten evenly.

Mounting Kit for MCW60/80/82 to nVidia GeForce GTX470, 480, 570, 580
Price: $5.99

Replacement hold-down plate and retention hardware for MCW60/80/82 to install on nVidia GeForce GTX470, 480, 570, 580

http://www.swiftech.com/GT400-REV2-Mountingkit.aspx

Best regards,


Gabe
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a b K Overclocking
March 22, 2012 2:10:26 AM

excellent thanks rubix. so the rasa block should work out of the box then? regardless of the IHS.

that's reassuring anyway.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 22, 2012 7:15:04 AM

swiftech make the mcw's while xspc make the rasa's - the info provided by rubix from Gabe is assurance for a mcw block to work without issue even if you don't have an IHS provided you get the mounting hardware for another $6.
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a c 224 K Overclocking
March 22, 2012 9:58:29 AM

welshmousepk said:
Thanks for the tips. The problem is that I upgrade GPUs A LOT. I will be getting a 680 as soon as they release in my country, so a full cover block now seems pointless. If I get a 680 and decide the universal block is not doing what i need, i may get as full cover for it. But buying a full cover for a 580 now seems like throwing money away as i probably wouldn't be able to sell it on.

I'm not going to bother taking off the shroud until my watercooling stuff arrives. It should only be next week.

The universal GPU block just seemed like a a good idea, because i can keep it forever and use it if i ever can't get or don't want as FC block.

For now though, im not too concerned about the vrms on the 580 with the universal block. Considering they normally only have aluminum heatspreaders and i'll be using copper. and direct airflow won't change much since im going to rig up as couple of slim 120mm fans to blow at it. I can't imagine the cooling could be that much worse than the stock heatsink.

EDIT: oh and yeah, my card is the evga 1536mb OC version. pretty much a reference card.


Don't underestimate the heat generated by the VRs, they are positioned directly under the stock squirrel case fan output, they designed it like that for a reason, the quickest path to graphics card destruction is not properly cooling the VRs.

Stick on ram sinks are great as long as they stay stuck on!

When the computer is standing upright the ram sinks are hanging down from the card, it makes no difference if they are aluminum or copper if they fall off.

If I was even thinking like you are intending on replacing the 580GTX with a 680GTX I wouldn't even take it apart and water cool it in the first place.

I'm sharing this with you because I actually had ram sinks fall off my VRs on a 7800GTX, it crippled the card so bad it was almost useless, if you continue with your plans, make sure you thoroughly clean the contact surfaces of the VRs and memory chips, and then clean them again to be sure, or else you could end up with a 580GTX paper weight, coffee table conversation piece of what not to do.

By the way, I have had ram sinks not fall off but they were applied with thermal adhesive, and they are still on the cards today, of course I had no intentions of selling those cards either, you do not use thermal adhesive if you intend selling the card, because you cannot remove thermal adhesive.


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a c 324 K Overclocking
March 22, 2012 12:54:08 PM

Lutfij said:
swiftech make the mcw's while xspc make the rasa's - the info provided by rubix from Gabe is assurance for a mcw block to work without issue even if you don't have an IHS provided you get the mounting hardware for another $6.


Yes, this was for Swiftech MCW blocks only...I have no idea on the XSPC Rasa GPU block. You could potentially say the same would apply, but without contacting XSPC on that specific block and the no-IHS application, you won't know for sure.

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When the computer is standing upright the ram sinks are hanging down from the card, it makes no difference if they are aluminum or copper if they fall off.


I just use thermal adhesive. You only need a little bit of the stuff and it holds really well. The less you use, the better as this will allow them to still be removed when you want to change cards in the future. I'm not a fan of the thermal tape that most RAMsinks have...it's notorious for losing adhesion and if you are running SLI cards, you don't want a metallic RAMsink falling off one card onto another. Trust me on this.

Quote:
If I was even thinking like you are intending on replacing the 580GTX with a 680GTX I wouldn't even take it apart and water cool it in the first place.


I second this. GTX 680's are out today...so I would assume your update window just started.

Quote:
By the way, I have had ram sinks not fall off but they were applied with thermal adhesive, and they are still on the cards today, of course I had no intentions of selling those cards either, you do not use thermal adhesive if you intend selling the card, because you cannot remove thermal adhesive.


If you use a minimal amount (a thin smear) of thermal adhesive (I use Arctic Alumina adhesive, works good for me) and you can take some needle nosed pliers and 'twist' the RAMsinks, they almost always pop right off, cleanly. Of course, application usually determines how easy and cleanly they are removed.

7800GTX...I remember those days!
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a c 224 K Overclocking
March 22, 2012 4:18:38 PM

When I applied mine I meant for them to stay there I used Artic Silver Thermal Adhesive, and way more than a thin smear, and if you tried to remove them it would tear the entire memory chip off the card and still stay stuck together.

The thin smear idea is a good tip, but a do at your own risk tip seeing as how it is a 2 part epoxy adhesive, it wouldn't take a whole lot of pressure to screw up a soldered in memory chip.
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a c 324 K Overclocking
March 22, 2012 4:57:31 PM

I've heard of people doing this, which is why I opt to use very little when applying mine. Maybe I'm just lucky, not sure. They do state that it is considered permanent, so removing anything stuck with it is at your own risk. It's good stuff and sets in just a few minutes.
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a b K Overclocking
March 23, 2012 7:48:30 AM

Hey guys, so the 680's are up for pre order in my country, and while we didnt get quite as raped on exchange rates, i still can't really justify ordering now. they are going for around 1000 NZD, which is more than 800 USD.
I'm still not really sure, but i have listed my 580 on our ebay equivalent and if ican get 500 dollars for it (which is looking promising) I will go ahead and get a 680 instead. It seems like alot of money, but you are right in that it seems silly going through all this effort now only to upgrade in the near future.
I'm guessing though that the ram issue is still going to be an issue with a 680 though, and im not really wanting to buy the card AND a fc waterblock (assuming they'll even be available any time soon)

I'm still tossing up atm. but all my spare cash went on the watercooling set, so if i do get a 680 it would have to be on credit. and I'm strarting to think the rasa GPU block may have been a waste if the VRM cooling will prove so difficult.

I'll see what happens with my auction though, and take it from there.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
March 23, 2012 8:48:57 AM

hate to say this but... being safe is better than being sorry. FAR BETTER! :/ 
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