Almost convinced to WC.

Currently I am running a H100 in push/pull with cougar vortex's. I dont see temps about 62c when at full load.

I have only had this for a short time and am considering taking it back to get the Rasa RX240 or RX360 Kit. I have a couple questions and may need to be convinced to get a full loop. (most likely by rubix :D )

1. I am planning on replacing this XSPC tubing with the Primochill LRT tubing. Is this a good idea and how much would i need? (comes in 10 ft form FrozenCpu)

2. I run an i7 920 @ 4.01ghz. Im assuming the 360 will be MORE than ample for this. ( I would like to add a GPU block later this summer, maybe even an SLI/xfire config)

3. I will have to mount on the back of my case. I have HAF 932, will the push pull be a problem?

4. What is a good coolant and biocide to get? Everyone seems to have their own opinion on this.. EK looks like decent stuff? I would obvioulsy like something that wont stain or promote rapid algae growth! haha.

That about sums it up. If anyone can convince me that I will see a decent drop in CPU, and a large drop in GPU, eventually, then I will run monday and that that CLS back lol.

Thanks for taking time to read! :hello:
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  1. Best answer
    I have just recently moved to watercooling. I have been running the rasa kit for just over a month, and currently have a full loop on the way in the mail to replace it.
    I have had to do an insane amount of research, so hopefully i can impart some knowledge.

    1/ Definitely. the Biggest problem i have with the rasa kit is the stock tubing is horrid. it has gone a horrible yellowish color after a very short time. I used less than two metres for my rasa build in a full tower case with an external mounted rad. so depending on size, i imagine 8-10 feet would be ample.

    2/ i'm running the rs240 with my i5 2500k at 4.8ghz. don't hit more than 50c under full load. and i didn't even properly replace the TIM. so a 360 will be PLENTY.

    3/ i don't have any experience water cooling in that case, so i cant say for sure.

    4/ just used distilled water. every where i go i hear horror stories of coolant dye getting caught in radiators and blocking them up over time. since coolant doesn't actually perform better than distilled water (in most cases worse) there is no reason at all not to. just use a silver kill coild and some copper sulphate biocide. i picked up both from frozen cpu. colored tubing will give you all you need in terms of coloring.

    good luck, i hope you enjoy your WC loop!
  2. Thanks for the response.

    Like you, I have read the sticky and MANY, MANY forums and whatnot. I am just waiting to take this plunge, quite literally, until im SUPER sure.

    With my case i just worried about the fans on the back being mounted too close to the case so they get no fresh air.

    Do you mind sharing which ones you purchased specifically? There is a kill coil that comes with the RASA apparently.
  3. the kill coil that came with the rasa is the same one i bought (it wasn't a freebie where i purchased it, im from outside the US)

    heres the link to the biocide:

    you only need a single drop. some say you don't need this AND a kill coil. but for 5 dollars id rather be safe than sorry.

    when you say the fans being too close to the case, what do you mean? as long as the fans are against a grille, and have enough clearance to the motherboard, they should be fine. the best thing you can do is measure. a typical fan is 25mm wide.
  4. Sorry for being unclear. If I get the RX360 I will have to mount the rad vertically outside my case on the back, off of the vent holes below the exhaust fan.

    Now that you say yours is fine. I could always go for a 240 then add another if needed when i do my GPU. Right now my h100 is in the top of my case and is fine!
  5. Best answer selected by fultonloyn.
  6. I've been thinking of going for water cooling for a long time but the risks are keeping me from away from it, not to mention the maintenance issues and cost...

    Putting copper sulphate solution in whilst being a good biocide is not necessarily good from the POV of possible corrosion (basic high school chemistry) and I think I'd need some kind of corrosion inhibitor... also as any schoolkid with a chemistry set and a couple of batteries knows copper sulphate solution is a wonderful conductor of electricity...

    .. as a left of centre argument has anyone tried using mineral oil instead of water? It's non corrosive non conductive and biocidal I believe... I've seen oil bath PC's on youtube and while that seems rather extreme containing it in a loop seems more practical...

  7. mineral oil in a loop is a bad idea. Pumps or not made for that, and I would also hazard a guess that it would have a considerably lower thermal capacity than distilled water. So lower conductivity combined with a pump not meant to push it, and you'd end up with a pretty toasty CPU.

    You may prefer to start your own thread btw, sicne this is an old finished one.

    But yes, copper sulphate may sound like a bad idea, but you use a single drop per litre of water. But you don't need this if you don't want. A silver kill coil works perfectly as a biocide.

    As long as you aren't using mixed metals in the loop, corrosion isn't really a worry.
    I have enjoyed getting into the WC scene, but its certainly not for the faint of heart.
    You need to be willing to learn, and to take risks. I've re-made my loop 3 times and encountered a problem every time. It's also very rewarding though, And while I'm still unsure I'f I will use WCing again in a future system, I've spent a lot of money on this loop so will use it as much as possible.
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