I5 Aussie Gaming Rig- $1800 aud

micky_lund

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Hey all, this is my rig im going to build. I live in Aus, so prices are higher. And so this is about your average 1100usd gaming rig, but without any rebates :( Followed theAnimal's guide for layout. It's long, but I'll do it right the first time.


APPROXIMATE PURCHASE DATE: Before November 20th
Maximum Budget: $1600, including everything but shipping.

SYSTEM USAGE FROM MOST TO LEAST IMPORTANT: gaming (MW2-i know, i know), uni work (publisher), watching movies (non blu-ray),

PARTS NOT REQUIRED: 24" BenQ monitor 1920x1080; 2x CoolerMaster 120cm rifles - BLUE LED 90cfm, 2000rpm; windows 7-64bit; office 2007
PARTS TO USE IN FUTURE BUILDS: power supply, case, keyboards, mouse.

PREFERRED WEBSITES: in australia, so prices are pretty high. And availability is down lots compared to US.
http://www.pccasegear.com is the site, and http://www.centrecom.com.au/ and http://www.umart.com.au (QLD store) have more availability, but normally higher prices. In QLD, so qld sites may cost less to post. Also, less than 3 stores only, so as to cut shipping.

PARTS PREFERENCES: i5 750,gigabyte mobo, ripjaws (cheaper in aus), big case and PSU to keep for a few builds, ati GPU, fast hdd

OVERCLOCKING: Yes, probably 3.6ghz if temps allow (back down to 3.2 in summer), and OC the GPU as well
SLI OR CROSSFIRE: Yes, X-Fire

MONITOR RESOLUTION: 1920x1080
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: blue leds, good cooling


My Rig:
CPU: Intel Core i5-750 / 2.66GHz / 8MB Cache / LGA1156 - $239.00

Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-P55-UD4P Motherboard - $205.00

CPU cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Plus CPU Cooler - $52.00

Thermal Paste: OCZ Freeze Extreme Thermal Compound - $6.00

RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws F3-10666CL7D-4GBRH (2x2GB) DDR3 - $129.00

GPU: XFX HD4890 PCI-E 2.0 1GB - $235.00 OR
Sapphire HD4890 1GB GDDR5 PCI-E - $222.00
Which is the better, for warranty, returns etc.? Also notice the sapphire has no links to its specifications.

HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB WD1001FALS - $119
This is just an example. HDD is always the slowest part of any rig, so im going to spend more on it. See question 2.

PSU: Corsair HX-850 ATX Power Supply w 140mm Modular Cables - $229.00
I know a 750w should power it, but i like headroom, and I'll keep it for a few years.

Case: CoolerMaster SGC-6000-KXN1 Storm Sniper Black Ed - $219.00
Same as powersupply, will keep it for a few years, through a few builds.

Optical Drive: $20 from my bro. Is SATA, and works fine, and is a good brand. Black on front, so no colour issues.

Subtotal
$1454 with no postage, and using XFX (i think)


Peripherals: overkill on most of these, but will keep for a few years (5~7 years easy). Also, i nearly am a Razer fanatic, cause i heard they have good products, that last a long time.
Mouse: Razer Salmosa High Infrared Precision Gaming Mouse - $52.80

Mouse Pad: Razer Sphex Mousemat - Gaming Grade Desktop Skin - $24.20

Keyboard: Razer Arctosa Gaming Keyboard - $53.90
Needs a decent sized wrist-wrest, no matter what.

Headset: Plantronics Gamecom 367 Closed Ear Gaming Headset - $45.00

Speakers: Recommend some speakers. Under $20, and need to be of some quality. Preferably 2.0 (2.1 if price allows), and black mesh. Like Logitech 2.0 speakers. Hopefully can get them for $10 from my bro. If not, the monitor has some built-in dodgy ones, but I'd still like a recommendation.

Peripheral Subtotal
$185.90 (ouch)


Final Total
$1639.90
+shipping (probably $100-$150)
I'm basically on budget, and plan to X-Fire 4890s in a while.




Notes
1. GPU is in the best performance/price here, and so I will probably stick with it. I thought about X-Firing 4850s, but there is no upgrade option. And can only find 512mb ones, which won't help the AA at my resolution. And i will try and OC them, even if it is only 50mhz, as long as it is stable.

2. I like the case: big cooling, big space, and fan controller. Its also blue :D. Much like the antec 1200, but different. Also, i will remove the 'crosshair' in the front, cause i don't like it much...takes away its signature, but who cares? It's my case :). See question 7.

3. May get an external hdd for storing movies on, but not needed in the cost. However, if 250gb storage or less, will spend more to get it.


Questions
1. Is 1333mhz ram going to allow me to OC to 3.6 (maybe 3.8) without too much trouble? Cause the mobo will handle it, and so should the CPU cooler, but at 3.8ghz, 190mhz x6 (multiplier) for the ram is only 1140mhz, so it should handle it (i hope). Yes or no?

2. How can i get the hdd faster without spending too much more. I need only around 120-250gb, but i want the access times down . Heres a link to another of my threads, asking the storage department. Sorry for the inconvenience with another thread, but can you help there? Your the experts, not me.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/253220-32-speed-raid

3. What games use PhysX? Because if i need to, ill upgrade the mobo, get another PCI-E 4.0x slot, and use an 8600gt in there. But that'll cost an extra $30, and if i don't need it, its pointless. (The other slot on the ud4p is going to be used for another 4890 in a year or 2). Otherwise, i could use the 8600gt in a PCI-E 1x slot, if it won't be bottlenecked too much. Also, is it worth the trouble for driver issues, as will be using ATi gpu for most part.

4. Is it better to put the 2000rpm fans on the CPU cooler, or one on the exhaust behind it, and the other as a bottom intake? What will keep the CPU colder?

5. Is modular really worth it, or is a 850tx good enough? It's only $25 more, and gives me more hdd ability, and more fan connectors, as well as the ability for a 3rd GPU, if i want it for physx.

6.Speaking of fan connectors, how do i control the CPU cooler's fans? Cause I'll want them right up. Is it just involve plugging them into the motherboard, and using some kinda software? Or do i need something else?
And How can i connect the extra case fans to the front controller? Just connect them up to the front panel controller, or is there not enough connectors for an extra fan (or 3 :D)?

7. With the case, if i remove the 'crosshair', how will that affect the structure of the front intake? Or will i have to find another way to keep it strong?

8. Finally, with the peripherals, what is your favourite (with a u :D) headset? I need it clear, and closed-ear. And definitely not more than $50aud (half that would be nice :S)



Thanks for your help.
MICK


Just realised how big the post is....lol :eek:
 

randomizer

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I can't answer all the questions as I don't own an i5 system and peripherals aren't really my "thing."

2. If you want lower access times, you're going to have to go with shortstroking a large HDD, or just go with an SSD. Shortstroking is an extremely inefficient band-aid fix for the hopeless access times of platter HDDs, and it means you sacrifice most of your HDD capacity for the improved performance. Therefore it's probably not what you want, but in case you want to read more about it, there's info and a review on shortstroking here: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/short-stroking-hdd,2157.html

3. Most well-known PhysX titles can be found here, but there are plenty of lesser known ones as well. IMO, PhysX is a waste of time and money, and usually doesn't add a great deal to the game. It's also entirely useless for MW2. Keep it as an afterthought rather than a priority.

4. Probably on the cooler, as you need to push more air through the fins, but I'm not a cooling expert.

5. Yes and no. It means you have less unused cables if you don't have alot of system devices, but often you end up using just as many as you do on a non-modular anyway. It's personal choice, and it depends on your configuration and how you layout the case. The 850TX is overkill, but it is certainly "good enough."

8. Your budget range for heaphones is pretty small, you won't be getting super-crisp quality for that amount of money. Check out the Sennheiser HD201 headphones if they are under $50 at those stores. They are some of the best for the price, but depending on your head, they may be comfortable or they may not be. Most people who own them love them, but I find they sit on my ears too much, rather than my head (they need deeper cups or I need smaller ears :p).
 
That's a whopper alright!

Sorry this hasn't gotten any replies yet, but let me see what I can do. I'll take em as I read...

GPU: I like Sapphire, but XFX has the better warranty usually. Either card should be good.


That's a great list. Wouldn't change a thing personally, except to get a 5850 at least instead of the 4890. In fact, I feel so strongly about the 5850 that I would buy a lesser PSU to cover it. An Antec TP-750 for instance.

If you can find Klipsch 2.1 speakers there in the future, I recommend them. They are not cheap though.

1. Yes I think you are fine on the RAM

2. You could RAID 0 a couple drives if you want. This is the Samsung Spinpoit F3 500GB:
http://umart.com.au/pro/products_listnew.phtml?id=10&id2=129&bid=2&sid=36937
You could get two of those for about the price of the single Caviar Black.

3. Not too many as far as I know, and I have read a lot of opinions that it will never really catch on. The only title that comes to mind right now is Ghostbusters.

4. It's a good cooler. Keep the air moving well through the case and you'll be fine.

5. The HX850 is worth it partly for the modularity, but more for the incredible quality. Fantastic scores on the bench in ripple, voltage regulation, efficiency, etc. If I had to pick the finest 850W made, this one would be on a short list of 3 I would have to consider, and I would have a hard time picking. As I said though, you could get a quality 750W and spend some more on the GPU and you would be better off.

6. The BIOS will control the CPU fan, and you'll have some variable settings for it... usually quiet, or performance, or something in between. You'll have to check, I haven't had my hands on a Storm Sniper yet and don't know if there are extra connections on the controller. Not sure I would want ALL the fans on the same knob anyway. I would likely get a simple controller for some....
I like my simple little Silverstone knobs. They fit in the useless floppy bay and give me the three extra controllers I need.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999046

7. Sorry, don't know. Doubt it's structural should be OK.

8. I have been happy with an Altec Lansing headset for several years, but looks like they don't make them now.
Opps! found them, had to search their site for "headset"
http://www.alteclansing.com/index.php?file=north_product_detail&iproduct_id=ahs502
Pretty good value at $40USD, if you can find them there.


 

randomizer

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RAID won't improve access time though, at least not significantly. Tom's put 12 HDDs in RAID 5 and RAID 0 and still only cut access time by just over 3ms:

hdtach_access.png


HDDs have a fundamental disadvantage that adding more to a RAID array won't fix: moving parts.
 
^ Very good replies there...

Here are my suggestions...

1. Yes you can overclock with that 1333MHz RAM...though you would have to increase the timings on those to get a stable at higher speed...

2. Like the above people said, the best option if want lower access time is by going with SSD...But first ask yourself whether the price premium warrants the performance boost...Frankly I dont see any good use of SSDs for your usage except that it would reduce the game load time a few seconds...apart from that it doesnt have any other major advantage in games...
RAID 0 like Proximon said would be my choice...

3. The latest game that relies heavily on PhysX is Batman...
And you can use a nvidia card for Physx only when the primary card is also a Nvidia...
So if you want PhysX, then go with Nvidia cards...
And I dont think 8600 supports physx...

4. A better CPU cooler will keep the CPU cool...but even having good airflow in the case will also help...

5. If the case that you select has very good cable management, then go with non-modular PSU like the Corsair 750TX (Yes 750W would suffice for HD 4890 Crossfire)...And with the money saved, invest in something else...
You can easily hide the unused cables behind the mobo tray and other places...

6. The CPU fan is controlled by the BIOS...So when temps go high, it would automatically increase the rpm...So it would be better to have very good fans with high cfm(air flow) and preferably low noise...
The only fans that come to mind are the fans from Noctua...they are the best for these...but I am not sure you will like its color scheme though...You can also use the Scythe "Slipstream" fans...even they have good airflow...

7. If you are OK with RED leds, then the CM HAF 922 would have been a very good option...they too have superior air-flow and would cost less too(though you wont get that fan control knob but you get many fan controller which can fit in the 3.5" or 5.25" bays)...But its you choice...If you like that case very much, then stick with it...It is also a very good one...

8. Headsets - I would say it would be of a personal preference...I have seen people buying costly, high-end headphones but are unhappy with it because they dont feel comfortable with its fit...So check some headphones and then decide...

Actually with the money saved you can get the i7 860 or try and get your hands on the HD 5850 ;) Hope it helps...
 

micky_lund

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ok, so here are the updates, and how you've answered the questions.
1. getting some 1600mhz ram, at $135. still g.skill, but slightly higher latency (CAS8), but will definitely overclock.
2. Going to probably get a Kingston 64GB SSD, and an external hdd for back-up and media. More expensive than RAID0, but will be a bigger increase in performance (tho at a premium :S)Thanks for the ideas.
3. PhysX sounds useless apparently. I'll leave it, and and save money on the motherboard, as no need for extra PCI-E 4x slot :D
4. So will probably put the good fans on the cpu cooler. I'm still unresolved about this, but I know the case will have good cooling. 3x200mm (1 front int, i side int, 1 top exhaust), and a rear 120mm fan. Ill take the stock cooler fan off, and put it on the bottom as an intake..unless you suggest i use the higher CFM fans there..... need more info here
5. I think non-modular is the go. Will save me some money, especially for no useful benefit. Probably go with the corsair 750tx, as long as everyone's sure it can handle CF 4890 OCed, and the processor OCed (it should, easily), and will save me close to $65.00. :D
6. & 7. neeeed blue leds... :lol: ...and the X-hair doesn't support much weight, so i should be alright. No structural damage (i hope). If not, i put it back in. This may also help my cause. Cheaper, and should work for the extra fans i need controlled (if i get 2).
8. hmmmm.....i want one that encloses the whole ear. And i have small ears, and hands (hence the small razer mouse, and not the logitech mx518, as was originally planned :(), so they should fit inside the plantronics (im pretty sure). And i want a headSET as well, not just headphones.
or
I could just add a Zalman Microphone ZM-MIC 1 or one of these to any pair of headphones...what do u think? Which is better?
I can also find the Sennheiser HD201 for $40, but the gaming ones cost more ($20 extra)? Whats the difference, and what do u think I should get?


I wanted to get a 5850, but its crazy expensive here. Looking in the $400 range (IF they are available. When they first came out, they were plentiful, and only at $360. I can nearly get 2x 1GB 4890's for the current price. So, i figured out go 4890 route. Its the best performance/price here. And i don't need hyperthreading, so the i7 860 is useless for me.
 
^Hmm...
1. Well a DDR3 1333MHz CAS 7 RAM and DDR3 1600MHz RAM are more or less the same...You can run a 1333MHz CAS 7 RAM at ~1600MHz when you increase the CAS to 8 and vice-versa...So go withe cheaper one...

2. Just check whether that Kingston has good performance...Else get a 30GB OCZ Vertex + 500GB Samsung F3

Rest are fine...
And Yes you are right about the HD 5850...And the 860 was just a suggestion :p but very well spend the money saved on other components on the SSDs...
 

micky_lund

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1. I'll go with the 1600, now its the same price, and specified at <1.65V.
2. Where do you think I should check for Kingston's performance? I'm going to start with google, but if there are better sites (rather than engines), give us a mention.
Not overly impressive, but still alright. http://www.trustedreviews.com/storage/review/2009/09/03/Kingston-SSDNow-V-Series-64GB/p2

What decreases the boot up speed? And what else should I be looking for in a SSD/hdd? And saving documents, what is that classified under?
 
Anandtech is your source for all things SSD. Anand has been all over the SSD evolution and he is the journalistic expert on the subject.

Pretty much any SSD is going to outperform a mechanical HD by a good margin.

There are huge differences in the various SSD drives of course, OCZ tends to offer good value as does Corsair. Intel is now trying to be competitive also, although of course they have the top-end sewn up.

http://www.anandtech.com/storage/showdoc.aspx?i=3667&p=5
 

randomizer

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The issue with that drive is it has a JMicron controller. It's not the original one (which was an epic fail), but it's not alot better. Something like an OCZ Agility would be better, but I'd say more expensive as well. Unfortunately, it's still "new tech."
 
^ If you are going with SSD, make sure it supports TRIM command(It is a feature that keeps the SSD like new in the sense it cleans the dump files internaly, hence the performance would be nearly as good as new) under WIN7...

And as for SSDs, search Anandtech...they have very good article on the SSD's performance...
 

micky_lund

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hmmmm....the Kingston V-Series don't support trim. I'd have to wipe it, and I also can't use Intel's toolbox. Looks like its back to HDD, as any other drive would go $$$ over budget.

Do you think RAID0 of 2 small drives (eg. 320gb) would be better than caviar 640gb? I'm now looking for overall performance, but also access times, and OS boot-up times. Remember, i have a budget of $150 (basically MAX) for this part, and since SSDs are gone, you probably have more ideas...VelociRaptor is $189.00 for 150GB, just another option
 

randomizer

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OS bootup time is affected mostly by the speed of random reads and writes, and these are affected alot by access time, which RAID doesn't help with much. RAID is great for boosting throughput, but for an OS setup it's pretty much useless. The only way to speed up access times with a HDD is rotational speed increases or shortstroking. Velociraptors happen to cover the former with 10000RPM rotational speeds. But you may be better to go for a cheaper HDD now and just save some cash for the SSD.
 

micky_lund

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hmmmm....i think i really need an SSD...but currently I can't really afford one...and its not worth getting a half one (like the v-series). ill probably go with a WD caviar black 640gb. Good performance, and not too big a waste of money on storage. Unless the raptor is better, and people think it would work? And if i got the raptor, would i shortstroke it, or is there not much point? Or is there another smaller drive with alright speeds, but cheaper than $89aud?

Or do you think its worth the massive premium, and buy a quality SSD?
 

randomizer

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A shortstroked Velociraptor is about as close as you'll get to an SSD, but you'll be limiting yourself to 10-20% of its capacity in the process (lower capacity = better access times). Personally I think you should go with the 640GB Caviar Black and wait until you've got enough cash to get a decent SSD, then make the Caviar your storage drive.
 

micky_lund

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yeah...i think i agree with you there.
id say the 640 is best bang for buck....$89aud, and will be tonnes over what i need.
i can always short-stroke that to about $320gb. get it all on 1 platter...does it work that way, or will it split it over 2? And do you think it will improve the performance any? Cause if it doesn't, i probably wouldn't use the space anyway
 

randomizer

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Reducing it to 320GB by simply ignoring the second platter (if it is possible) shouldn't, in theory, improve access times. Having more than one platter doesn't inherently increase access time, it's the platter density that determines that. Chopping off one platter means you just have half the capacity, but it will still take the same amount of time to access the first platter because it hasn't change the density. What you want to do is cut down on the amount of data written close to the centre of each platter, as this is the slowest point. Chances are this is how shortstroking programs work, because a HDD is not filled platter by platter, but all platters at once from the outside inwards.
 

micky_lund

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kk...so S.S. should still help my times? or will it just waste the space, and have no affect at all?

im thinking of getting an external hdd as well, and scrapping the upgrade to SSD for a few years. What would you suggest? I'm thinking Seagate XTreme, or using this container with an internal Caviar 640, so i can get more storage for the same price and with equal or better performance.

BTW: the hdd charts on TOM's show the performance of the 2 being basically equal. So does that just mean take the cheaper option? or will wear on the internal hdd be adversely affecting it (and its lifespan)?
 

randomizer

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Check the article I linked earlier, you can decide from that if the reduction in access times is worth it to you. It's still not going to touch an SSD, but it's second best, just a horribly inefficient second best.

Unless you get an eSATA external HDD, the interface (particularly USB 2.0) will be slower than both of the throughputs of each drive. USB 2.0 maxes out at around 32MB/s. Also, there shouldn't be much difference between an internal and external HDD build-wise, assuming the internal is in a proper casing. The guts of the things are still essentially the same. If you throw them around, you'll screw them both up :)
 

micky_lund

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hmmmmm....it seems like a dodgy SSD is still going to be better than all the other options. How else, other than wiping, TRIM or intel's toolbox can i clean it up? I need it not to slow down too much over time...would a defrag tool work, or should i try for another brand? the 80GB Intel X25-M is $343, double the other one.

and the CAS is fine. its 8, so basically the same as the 1333-7, but guaranteed to make a good overclock.
 

randomizer

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It's better unless you deal with alot of small files. The Jmicron controller flips out and you get the infamous "stutter" issue, and it ends up far, far slower than all the other SSDs. If you're going to go for an Intel SSD, make sure you get the second generation one, because the first won't ever support TRIM (it could, but it won't thanks to a business decision).

You can expect any SSD to slow down up to approximately 20% over a period of time, be it days, weeks or months, while using TRIM. It is sometimes alot more than that, but being new tech, there are still bugs in firmware and in Windows that affect some people and not others. Do not defrag it, there is no reason and it will only degrade the drive. The only type of "defragmentation" that is good is free space consolidation, as this allows the drive to TRIM more blocks. Simply moving around file fragments to make them contiguous just wastes write cycles, as used space fragmentation does not matter when every part of the drive has an access time of ~0.3ms.
 

micky_lund

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kk...i think a single gaviar black 640 is gonna be best, considering SSD's are stuffing up, and slowing down. the premium isn't worth it IMO....I'll short-stroke the caviar, down to around 200gb or less. and get another internal, and a cover to use externally, which will have media and back-up on...

the more i short-stroke it, the faster it becomes? is that right? so if i can get away with something like80~100gb, should i limit to that? or should i try lower if i can? and what tool do i do it with for WD caviar? the same hitachi website?