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I5 Aussie Gaming Rig- $1800 aud

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November 12, 2009 12:03:15 AM

Hey all, this is my rig im going to build. I live in Aus, so prices are higher. And so this is about your average 1100usd gaming rig, but without any rebates :(  Followed theAnimal's guide for layout. It's long, but I'll do it right the first time.


APPROXIMATE PURCHASE DATE: Before November 20th
Maximum Budget: $1600, including everything but shipping.

SYSTEM USAGE FROM MOST TO LEAST IMPORTANT: gaming (MW2-i know, i know), uni work (publisher), watching movies (non blu-ray),

PARTS NOT REQUIRED: 24" BenQ monitor 1920x1080; 2x CoolerMaster 120cm rifles - BLUE LED 90cfm, 2000rpm; windows 7-64bit; office 2007
PARTS TO USE IN FUTURE BUILDS: power supply, case, keyboards, mouse.

PREFERRED WEBSITES: in australia, so prices are pretty high. And availability is down lots compared to US.
http://www.pccasegear.com is the site, and http://www.centrecom.com.au/ and http://www.umart.com.au (QLD store) have more availability, but normally higher prices. In QLD, so qld sites may cost less to post. Also, less than 3 stores only, so as to cut shipping.

PARTS PREFERENCES: i5 750,gigabyte mobo, ripjaws (cheaper in aus), big case and PSU to keep for a few builds, ati GPU, fast hdd

OVERCLOCKING: Yes, probably 3.6ghz if temps allow (back down to 3.2 in summer), and OC the GPU as well
SLI OR CROSSFIRE: Yes, X-Fire

MONITOR RESOLUTION: 1920x1080
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: blue leds, good cooling


My Rig:
CPU: Intel Core i5-750 / 2.66GHz / 8MB Cache / LGA1156 - $239.00

Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-P55-UD4P Motherboard - $205.00

CPU cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Plus CPU Cooler - $52.00

Thermal Paste: OCZ Freeze Extreme Thermal Compound - $6.00

RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws F3-10666CL7D-4GBRH (2x2GB) DDR3 - $129.00

GPU: XFX HD4890 PCI-E 2.0 1GB - $235.00 OR
Sapphire HD4890 1GB GDDR5 PCI-E - $222.00
Which is the better, for warranty, returns etc.? Also notice the sapphire has no links to its specifications.

HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB WD1001FALS - $119
This is just an example. HDD is always the slowest part of any rig, so im going to spend more on it. See question 2.

PSU: Corsair HX-850 ATX Power Supply w 140mm Modular Cables - $229.00
I know a 750w should power it, but i like headroom, and I'll keep it for a few years.

Case: CoolerMaster SGC-6000-KXN1 Storm Sniper Black Ed - $219.00
Same as powersupply, will keep it for a few years, through a few builds.

Optical Drive: $20 from my bro. Is SATA, and works fine, and is a good brand. Black on front, so no colour issues.

Subtotal
$1454 with no postage, and using XFX (i think)


Peripherals: overkill on most of these, but will keep for a few years (5~7 years easy). Also, i nearly am a Razer fanatic, cause i heard they have good products, that last a long time.
Mouse: Razer Salmosa High Infrared Precision Gaming Mouse - $52.80

Mouse Pad: Razer Sphex Mousemat - Gaming Grade Desktop Skin - $24.20

Keyboard: Razer Arctosa Gaming Keyboard - $53.90
Needs a decent sized wrist-wrest, no matter what.

Headset: Plantronics Gamecom 367 Closed Ear Gaming Headset - $45.00

Speakers: Recommend some speakers. Under $20, and need to be of some quality. Preferably 2.0 (2.1 if price allows), and black mesh. Like Logitech 2.0 speakers. Hopefully can get them for $10 from my bro. If not, the monitor has some built-in dodgy ones, but I'd still like a recommendation.

Peripheral Subtotal
$185.90 (ouch)


Final Total
$1639.90
+shipping (probably $100-$150)
I'm basically on budget, and plan to X-Fire 4890s in a while.




Notes
1. GPU is in the best performance/price here, and so I will probably stick with it. I thought about X-Firing 4850s, but there is no upgrade option. And can only find 512mb ones, which won't help the AA at my resolution. And i will try and OC them, even if it is only 50mhz, as long as it is stable.

2. I like the case: big cooling, big space, and fan controller. Its also blue :D . Much like the antec 1200, but different. Also, i will remove the 'crosshair' in the front, cause i don't like it much...takes away its signature, but who cares? It's my case :) . See question 7.

3. May get an external hdd for storing movies on, but not needed in the cost. However, if 250gb storage or less, will spend more to get it.


Questions
1. Is 1333mhz ram going to allow me to OC to 3.6 (maybe 3.8) without too much trouble? Cause the mobo will handle it, and so should the CPU cooler, but at 3.8ghz, 190mhz x6 (multiplier) for the ram is only 1140mhz, so it should handle it (i hope). Yes or no?

2. How can i get the hdd faster without spending too much more. I need only around 120-250gb, but i want the access times down . Heres a link to another of my threads, asking the storage department. Sorry for the inconvenience with another thread, but can you help there? Your the experts, not me.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/253220-32-speed-raid

3. What games use PhysX? Because if i need to, ill upgrade the mobo, get another PCI-E 4.0x slot, and use an 8600gt in there. But that'll cost an extra $30, and if i don't need it, its pointless. (The other slot on the ud4p is going to be used for another 4890 in a year or 2). Otherwise, i could use the 8600gt in a PCI-E 1x slot, if it won't be bottlenecked too much. Also, is it worth the trouble for driver issues, as will be using ATi gpu for most part.

4. Is it better to put the 2000rpm fans on the CPU cooler, or one on the exhaust behind it, and the other as a bottom intake? What will keep the CPU colder?

5. Is modular really worth it, or is a 850tx good enough? It's only $25 more, and gives me more hdd ability, and more fan connectors, as well as the ability for a 3rd GPU, if i want it for physx.

6.Speaking of fan connectors, how do i control the CPU cooler's fans? Cause I'll want them right up. Is it just involve plugging them into the motherboard, and using some kinda software? Or do i need something else?
And How can i connect the extra case fans to the front controller? Just connect them up to the front panel controller, or is there not enough connectors for an extra fan (or 3 :D )?

7. With the case, if i remove the 'crosshair', how will that affect the structure of the front intake? Or will i have to find another way to keep it strong?

8. Finally, with the peripherals, what is your favourite (with a u :D ) headset? I need it clear, and closed-ear. And definitely not more than $50aud (half that would be nice :S)



Thanks for your help.
MICK


Just realised how big the post is....lol :o 

More about : aussie gaming rig 1800 aud

November 13, 2009 5:29:29 AM

I can't answer all the questions as I don't own an i5 system and peripherals aren't really my "thing."

2. If you want lower access times, you're going to have to go with shortstroking a large HDD, or just go with an SSD. Shortstroking is an extremely inefficient band-aid fix for the hopeless access times of platter HDDs, and it means you sacrifice most of your HDD capacity for the improved performance. Therefore it's probably not what you want, but in case you want to read more about it, there's info and a review on shortstroking here: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/short-stroking-hdd,...

3. Most well-known PhysX titles can be found here, but there are plenty of lesser known ones as well. IMO, PhysX is a waste of time and money, and usually doesn't add a great deal to the game. It's also entirely useless for MW2. Keep it as an afterthought rather than a priority.

4. Probably on the cooler, as you need to push more air through the fins, but I'm not a cooling expert.

5. Yes and no. It means you have less unused cables if you don't have alot of system devices, but often you end up using just as many as you do on a non-modular anyway. It's personal choice, and it depends on your configuration and how you layout the case. The 850TX is overkill, but it is certainly "good enough."

8. Your budget range for heaphones is pretty small, you won't be getting super-crisp quality for that amount of money. Check out the Sennheiser HD201 headphones if they are under $50 at those stores. They are some of the best for the price, but depending on your head, they may be comfortable or they may not be. Most people who own them love them, but I find they sit on my ears too much, rather than my head (they need deeper cups or I need smaller ears :p ).
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a b 4 Gaming
November 13, 2009 6:12:07 AM

That's a whopper alright!

Sorry this hasn't gotten any replies yet, but let me see what I can do. I'll take em as I read...

GPU: I like Sapphire, but XFX has the better warranty usually. Either card should be good.


That's a great list. Wouldn't change a thing personally, except to get a 5850 at least instead of the 4890. In fact, I feel so strongly about the 5850 that I would buy a lesser PSU to cover it. An Antec TP-750 for instance.

If you can find Klipsch 2.1 speakers there in the future, I recommend them. They are not cheap though.

1. Yes I think you are fine on the RAM

2. You could RAID 0 a couple drives if you want. This is the Samsung Spinpoit F3 500GB:
http://umart.com.au/pro/products_listnew.phtml?id=10&id...
You could get two of those for about the price of the single Caviar Black.

3. Not too many as far as I know, and I have read a lot of opinions that it will never really catch on. The only title that comes to mind right now is Ghostbusters.

4. It's a good cooler. Keep the air moving well through the case and you'll be fine.

5. The HX850 is worth it partly for the modularity, but more for the incredible quality. Fantastic scores on the bench in ripple, voltage regulation, efficiency, etc. If I had to pick the finest 850W made, this one would be on a short list of 3 I would have to consider, and I would have a hard time picking. As I said though, you could get a quality 750W and spend some more on the GPU and you would be better off.

6. The BIOS will control the CPU fan, and you'll have some variable settings for it... usually quiet, or performance, or something in between. You'll have to check, I haven't had my hands on a Storm Sniper yet and don't know if there are extra connections on the controller. Not sure I would want ALL the fans on the same knob anyway. I would likely get a simple controller for some....
I like my simple little Silverstone knobs. They fit in the useless floppy bay and give me the three extra controllers I need.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

7. Sorry, don't know. Doubt it's structural should be OK.

8. I have been happy with an Altec Lansing headset for several years, but looks like they don't make them now.
Opps! found them, had to search their site for "headset"
http://www.alteclansing.com/index.php?file=north_produc...
Pretty good value at $40USD, if you can find them there.


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Related resources
November 13, 2009 6:32:46 AM

Proximon said:
2. You could RAID 0 a couple drives if you want. This is the Samsung Spinpoit F3 500GB:
http://umart.com.au/pro/products_listnew.phtml?id=10&id...
You could get two of those for about the price of the single Caviar Black.

RAID won't improve access time though, at least not significantly. Tom's put 12 HDDs in RAID 5 and RAID 0 and still only cut access time by just over 3ms:



HDDs have a fundamental disadvantage that adding more to a RAID array won't fix: moving parts.
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a b 4 Gaming
November 13, 2009 6:50:30 AM

Thanks! Probably pretty good with sequential reads though, and since it's a gaming rig I imagine that would be the main point.
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November 13, 2009 7:35:06 AM

Oh yea, sequential reads are high (although the same number of SSDs is much higher, but also way, way more expensive). But he did say he wanted low access times, even though he mentioned gaming.
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a b 4 Gaming
November 13, 2009 12:33:25 PM

^ Very good replies there...

Here are my suggestions...

1. Yes you can overclock with that 1333MHz RAM...though you would have to increase the timings on those to get a stable at higher speed...

2. Like the above people said, the best option if want lower access time is by going with SSD...But first ask yourself whether the price premium warrants the performance boost...Frankly I dont see any good use of SSDs for your usage except that it would reduce the game load time a few seconds...apart from that it doesnt have any other major advantage in games...
RAID 0 like Proximon said would be my choice...

3. The latest game that relies heavily on PhysX is Batman...
And you can use a nvidia card for Physx only when the primary card is also a Nvidia...
So if you want PhysX, then go with Nvidia cards...
And I dont think 8600 supports physx...

4. A better CPU cooler will keep the CPU cool...but even having good airflow in the case will also help...

5. If the case that you select has very good cable management, then go with non-modular PSU like the Corsair 750TX (Yes 750W would suffice for HD 4890 Crossfire)...And with the money saved, invest in something else...
You can easily hide the unused cables behind the mobo tray and other places...

6. The CPU fan is controlled by the BIOS...So when temps go high, it would automatically increase the rpm...So it would be better to have very good fans with high cfm(air flow) and preferably low noise...
The only fans that come to mind are the fans from Noctua...they are the best for these...but I am not sure you will like its color scheme though...You can also use the Scythe "Slipstream" fans...even they have good airflow...

7. If you are OK with RED leds, then the CM HAF 922 would have been a very good option...they too have superior air-flow and would cost less too(though you wont get that fan control knob but you get many fan controller which can fit in the 3.5" or 5.25" bays)...But its you choice...If you like that case very much, then stick with it...It is also a very good one...

8. Headsets - I would say it would be of a personal preference...I have seen people buying costly, high-end headphones but are unhappy with it because they dont feel comfortable with its fit...So check some headphones and then decide...

Actually with the money saved you can get the i7 860 or try and get your hands on the HD 5850 ;)  Hope it helps...
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November 14, 2009 12:54:50 AM

ok, so here are the updates, and how you've answered the questions.
1. getting some 1600mhz ram, at $135. still g.skill, but slightly higher latency (CAS8), but will definitely overclock.
2. Going to probably get a Kingston 64GB SSD, and an external hdd for back-up and media. More expensive than RAID0, but will be a bigger increase in performance (tho at a premium :S)Thanks for the ideas.
3. PhysX sounds useless apparently. I'll leave it, and and save money on the motherboard, as no need for extra PCI-E 4x slot :D 
4. So will probably put the good fans on the cpu cooler. I'm still unresolved about this, but I know the case will have good cooling. 3x200mm (1 front int, i side int, 1 top exhaust), and a rear 120mm fan. Ill take the stock cooler fan off, and put it on the bottom as an intake..unless you suggest i use the higher CFM fans there..... need more info here
5. I think non-modular is the go. Will save me some money, especially for no useful benefit. Probably go with the corsair 750tx, as long as everyone's sure it can handle CF 4890 OCed, and the processor OCed (it should, easily), and will save me close to $65.00. :D 
6. & 7. neeeed blue leds... :lol:  ...and the X-hair doesn't support much weight, so i should be alright. No structural damage (i hope). If not, i put it back in. This may also help my cause. Cheaper, and should work for the extra fans i need controlled (if i get 2).
8. hmmmm.....i want one that encloses the whole ear. And i have small ears, and hands (hence the small razer mouse, and not the logitech mx518, as was originally planned :( ), so they should fit inside the plantronics (im pretty sure). And i want a headSET as well, not just headphones.
or
I could just add a Zalman Microphone ZM-MIC 1 or one of these to any pair of headphones...what do u think? Which is better?
I can also find the Sennheiser HD201 for $40, but the gaming ones cost more ($20 extra)? Whats the difference, and what do u think I should get?


I wanted to get a 5850, but its crazy expensive here. Looking in the $400 range (IF they are available. When they first came out, they were plentiful, and only at $360. I can nearly get 2x 1GB 4890's for the current price. So, i figured out go 4890 route. Its the best performance/price here. And i don't need hyperthreading, so the i7 860 is useless for me.
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a b 4 Gaming
November 14, 2009 2:55:04 AM

^Hmm...
1. Well a DDR3 1333MHz CAS 7 RAM and DDR3 1600MHz RAM are more or less the same...You can run a 1333MHz CAS 7 RAM at ~1600MHz when you increase the CAS to 8 and vice-versa...So go withe cheaper one...

2. Just check whether that Kingston has good performance...Else get a 30GB OCZ Vertex + 500GB Samsung F3

Rest are fine...
And Yes you are right about the HD 5850...And the 860 was just a suggestion :p  but very well spend the money saved on other components on the SSDs...
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November 14, 2009 3:19:47 AM

1. I'll go with the 1600, now its the same price, and specified at <1.65V.
2. Where do you think I should check for Kingston's performance? I'm going to start with google, but if there are better sites (rather than engines), give us a mention.
Not overly impressive, but still alright. http://www.trustedreviews.com/storage/review/2009/09/03/Kingston-SSDNow-V-Series-64GB/p2

What decreases the boot up speed? And what else should I be looking for in a SSD/hdd? And saving documents, what is that classified under?
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a b 4 Gaming
November 14, 2009 5:29:39 AM

Anandtech is your source for all things SSD. Anand has been all over the SSD evolution and he is the journalistic expert on the subject.

Pretty much any SSD is going to outperform a mechanical HD by a good margin.

There are huge differences in the various SSD drives of course, OCZ tends to offer good value as does Corsair. Intel is now trying to be competitive also, although of course they have the top-end sewn up.

http://www.anandtech.com/storage/showdoc.aspx?i=3667&p=...
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November 14, 2009 5:29:46 AM

The issue with that drive is it has a JMicron controller. It's not the original one (which was an epic fail), but it's not alot better. Something like an OCZ Agility would be better, but I'd say more expensive as well. Unfortunately, it's still "new tech."
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a b 4 Gaming
November 14, 2009 5:34:59 AM

^ If you are going with SSD, make sure it supports TRIM command(It is a feature that keeps the SSD like new in the sense it cleans the dump files internaly, hence the performance would be nearly as good as new) under WIN7...

And as for SSDs, search Anandtech...they have very good article on the SSD's performance...
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November 14, 2009 6:59:08 AM

hmmmm....the Kingston V-Series don't support trim. I'd have to wipe it, and I also can't use Intel's toolbox. Looks like its back to HDD, as any other drive would go $$$ over budget.

Do you think RAID0 of 2 small drives (eg. 320gb) would be better than caviar 640gb? I'm now looking for overall performance, but also access times, and OS boot-up times. Remember, i have a budget of $150 (basically MAX) for this part, and since SSDs are gone, you probably have more ideas...VelociRaptor is $189.00 for 150GB, just another option
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November 14, 2009 7:43:29 AM

OS bootup time is affected mostly by the speed of random reads and writes, and these are affected alot by access time, which RAID doesn't help with much. RAID is great for boosting throughput, but for an OS setup it's pretty much useless. The only way to speed up access times with a HDD is rotational speed increases or shortstroking. Velociraptors happen to cover the former with 10000RPM rotational speeds. But you may be better to go for a cheaper HDD now and just save some cash for the SSD.
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November 14, 2009 9:03:04 AM

hmmmm....i think i really need an SSD...but currently I can't really afford one...and its not worth getting a half one (like the v-series). ill probably go with a WD caviar black 640gb. Good performance, and not too big a waste of money on storage. Unless the raptor is better, and people think it would work? And if i got the raptor, would i shortstroke it, or is there not much point? Or is there another smaller drive with alright speeds, but cheaper than $89aud?

Or do you think its worth the massive premium, and buy a quality SSD?
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November 14, 2009 9:08:40 AM

A shortstroked Velociraptor is about as close as you'll get to an SSD, but you'll be limiting yourself to 10-20% of its capacity in the process (lower capacity = better access times). Personally I think you should go with the 640GB Caviar Black and wait until you've got enough cash to get a decent SSD, then make the Caviar your storage drive.
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November 14, 2009 9:32:19 AM

yeah...i think i agree with you there.
id say the 640 is best bang for buck....$89aud, and will be tonnes over what i need.
i can always short-stroke that to about $320gb. get it all on 1 platter...does it work that way, or will it split it over 2? And do you think it will improve the performance any? Cause if it doesn't, i probably wouldn't use the space anyway
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November 14, 2009 9:51:15 AM

Reducing it to 320GB by simply ignoring the second platter (if it is possible) shouldn't, in theory, improve access times. Having more than one platter doesn't inherently increase access time, it's the platter density that determines that. Chopping off one platter means you just have half the capacity, but it will still take the same amount of time to access the first platter because it hasn't change the density. What you want to do is cut down on the amount of data written close to the centre of each platter, as this is the slowest point. Chances are this is how shortstroking programs work, because a HDD is not filled platter by platter, but all platters at once from the outside inwards.
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November 14, 2009 10:01:35 AM

kk...so S.S. should still help my times? or will it just waste the space, and have no affect at all?

im thinking of getting an external hdd as well, and scrapping the upgrade to SSD for a few years. What would you suggest? I'm thinking Seagate XTreme, or using this container with an internal Caviar 640, so i can get more storage for the same price and with equal or better performance.

BTW: the hdd charts on TOM's show the performance of the 2 being basically equal. So does that just mean take the cheaper option? or will wear on the internal hdd be adversely affecting it (and its lifespan)?
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November 14, 2009 10:28:43 AM

Check the article I linked earlier, you can decide from that if the reduction in access times is worth it to you. It's still not going to touch an SSD, but it's second best, just a horribly inefficient second best.

Unless you get an eSATA external HDD, the interface (particularly USB 2.0) will be slower than both of the throughputs of each drive. USB 2.0 maxes out at around 32MB/s. Also, there shouldn't be much difference between an internal and external HDD build-wise, assuming the internal is in a proper casing. The guts of the things are still essentially the same. If you throw them around, you'll screw them both up :) 
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November 14, 2009 2:13:51 PM

Yeah, micky lund. G.skill 1600 is exactly what i would get.

G.skill is some of my favorite ram. But like random said, make sure that the drop in CAS time is actually worth it.
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November 14, 2009 8:15:01 PM

hmmmmm....it seems like a dodgy SSD is still going to be better than all the other options. How else, other than wiping, TRIM or intel's toolbox can i clean it up? I need it not to slow down too much over time...would a defrag tool work, or should i try for another brand? the 80GB Intel X25-M is $343, double the other one.

and the CAS is fine. its 8, so basically the same as the 1333-7, but guaranteed to make a good overclock.
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November 14, 2009 11:53:07 PM

It's better unless you deal with alot of small files. The Jmicron controller flips out and you get the infamous "stutter" issue, and it ends up far, far slower than all the other SSDs. If you're going to go for an Intel SSD, make sure you get the second generation one, because the first won't ever support TRIM (it could, but it won't thanks to a business decision).

You can expect any SSD to slow down up to approximately 20% over a period of time, be it days, weeks or months, while using TRIM. It is sometimes alot more than that, but being new tech, there are still bugs in firmware and in Windows that affect some people and not others. Do not defrag it, there is no reason and it will only degrade the drive. The only type of "defragmentation" that is good is free space consolidation, as this allows the drive to TRIM more blocks. Simply moving around file fragments to make them contiguous just wastes write cycles, as used space fragmentation does not matter when every part of the drive has an access time of ~0.3ms.
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November 15, 2009 3:26:09 AM

kk...i think a single gaviar black 640 is gonna be best, considering SSD's are stuffing up, and slowing down. the premium isn't worth it IMO....I'll short-stroke the caviar, down to around 200gb or less. and get another internal, and a cover to use externally, which will have media and back-up on...

the more i short-stroke it, the faster it becomes? is that right? so if i can get away with something like80~100gb, should i limit to that? or should i try lower if i can? and what tool do i do it with for WD caviar? the same hitachi website?

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November 15, 2009 3:28:33 AM

I am not sure how to go about it, you'll have to do some reading on that one. But basically the lower the capacity, the faster the access times will be.
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November 15, 2009 3:36:04 AM

hmmm...ok...
or i could get one hitachi 15k drive for $190+shipping here...still too high for the performance...ill have a look into it. thanks for your help randomizer...
ill ask again if i get any problems/results
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November 15, 2009 3:44:04 AM

15k drives are great if you have ear plugs to block out the sound :) 
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November 15, 2009 4:04:55 AM

This website shows a 2-3second increase, but that going from 640gb to 64gb, and using partitions. the increase is very minimal, but I don't know. It will help, but i don't know if its worth wasting the storage. I suppose that if i'm not using it anyway, it'd be worth it

EDIT: And whats the difference between short-stroking, and using the outer part of the disk with only 1 partition?
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November 15, 2009 4:19:21 AM

As you can see, it's a very dirty trick that ends up wasting most of the capacity you paid for.
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November 15, 2009 4:24:04 AM

hmmmm....yeah....no way to decrease access times except by getting a faster rpm hdd, or getting an SSD like u said before 8|

what do u reckon i do? single hdd, and use the whole amount?
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November 15, 2009 4:29:36 AM

Well if you're not getting an SSD, I'd try a full capacity HDD first and see if it's too slow for you. Then try shortstroking it at different capacities and see where the performance/GB lost balances out nicely, if it does. You may find the whole thing is not worth it.
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November 15, 2009 4:45:11 AM

kk...ill go with the 640gb caviar black, and maybe short-stroke
Questions:
whats the difference between partitioning and short-stroking? one use the inside, and ss doesn't?
How do i partition, so that the OS, apps, games are on the outside 120gb?
Will more platters decrease the access time, as it would only be 40 or 60gb on the outside, rather than 120 on a single? So the head would travel less, and so increase times?
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November 15, 2009 5:18:53 AM

Partitioning just splits the full available capacity up into separate volumes, but you don't lose anything in the process. It's more for organisation purposes, and makes it easier to reformat your OS drive if you only have one HDD because you can keep your data on a second, larger partition and format C: without affecting the data. Shortstoking makes the drive appear smaller than it really is, so that data is only written to the first x GB, depending on what settings you use. I am not sure exactly how data is written to the drive when it is partitioned. If you make a 60GB partition at the start of the drive ( C: ), but write data to the second position, I don't know if the data is actually written starting from after the 60GB point on the platters or not.

Also, for access times, more capacity on one platter is better than having capacity spread over multiple platters. A single 500GB platter (the largest available) is faster than a single 320GB platter, or even two 320GB platters, which in turn are faster than 160GB platters. Since the platters are all physically the same size in every drive, more capacity on one platter means more data is stored in the same area, and therefore more data passes under the drive head with each rotation, which means that maximum throughput, especially for sequential reads/writes, is also improved.
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November 15, 2009 5:32:40 AM

ahhhh...i forgot that most are 3.5"....that's y seagate is putting its 15k Cheetah drives on 2.5" drives. So it doesn't matter how large the storage on each drive, rather the platter size...makes it simpler...

and im going to buy the corsair 850tx, as the 750 is unavailable to get without shipping. If i get it from another place WITH shipping, its going to cost as much as a 850tx without shipping anyways.... and the 850hx is unavailable atm as well...

When a disk fails, Y do they restore everything? Y don't they make a briefcase to store useful stuff (like work/assignments in), and download all the apps again after the re-format? It takes more time, but means ur back-up can be smaller....and so is cheaper...
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November 19, 2009 10:16:14 AM

last minute questions before i order the rest of my parts tomoz. i've already ordered the i5 750, all the peripherals, the CM storm sniper black edition case, the 850-tx, and the gigabyte p55-ud4p.

im now just looking at the rest of the stuff, especially cooling. i have many problems, and i think you know more than me. im probably keeping the rest of my parts, but changing the ram to ocz 1333mhz cl7 (back of timings for OC), and the hdd to a WD caviar black 640gb. here goes:

a) should i buy 2x 3000rpm 133CFM 120mm fans, and put them on the cooler? or would this be overkill for a pansy CPU cooler such as the CM hyper 212 plus? also remember id have to buy 38mm clips, and i think this would be pointless.......as the fans are WAY overkill for the cooler. cost of 2x $22 + $15 (clip)= $59
or
b) buy a pair of 70CFM fans, which costs the same as 1 scythe 3000rpm fan. i think this would be more suitable. cost= $24
or
c) buy a pair of blue LED fans, at 40CFM. looks cooler, bit cheaper than option b), but would cool less.
what is more suitable for the job? cost=$22, but looks cooler....lol...who looks at the inside anyways?

i think i might go with option b), as it seems the only viable option to me...but i might have overlooked something? what do you think?


Other Options
I've also taken a diagram from some random website. Doesn't show the CPU cooler, but u get the gist of the size of the case, and the airflow of the fans. The photos show the Existing cooling, plus big 200mm fan on side (as intake), and the Changes, showing some options that I want to consider. From the diagrams, i have these questions:

CPU cooler
1) can i mount the cpu cooler so it's pointing backwards? or does it have to face upwards? or what, and what is better for cooling? the top will have 142CFM, and the back about 90cfm (hopefully)...and heat rises...option 2) is for upwards...
which of these options will not block the RAM slots? (using ocz ddr3 1333mhz cl7, so its not too big) the cooler is the CM hyper 212 PLUS.

pocket of air under gpu
remember, i will be using another gpu in time, so after a year, can't block too many slots. This here shows where the PCI-E x16 is: right under the NBridge, so thats good. but when the second PCI-E x8 slot is used, this will block or heavily reduce the angle on the 120mm fan.
option 3) is using a 120mm fan strapped on an angle, pushing the air from on the top of the PSU out the back, through the PCI slots (they have large slits). it'll probably hold using cable ties and the like.
option 4) is using on of these Evercool FOX-1 System Blower and extracting the air out the back, just like a GPU does.
there is also another option: just pointing a 120mm fan upwards into the existing GPU. don't know if this last bit will help, and may in fact hinder if the air in 4) in diagram is hot... it shouldn't be, because its sunk, but you never know. what do u think? remember i also have the 200mm fan blowing 142CFM from the side, straight onto it. so i just need to get rid of the extra air. no more need for intakes

moving the cool air form the front towards the components
im interested in installing 1 or 2 fans here, just too push the air further up to the components. should i put it vertically (option 6)), or horizontally (option 5)), or both (5) and six 6)), or what? and if i zip-tied these in place, would the cause troubles to the cables? they should be well out of the way to start with...


thanks for all your help, so far. please help for tis last little bit
MICK
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a b 4 Gaming
November 19, 2009 10:32:27 AM

As for the CPU cooler -
Get this - Noctua - Comes with 2 high performance fans and have very good performance...
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_i...

And So many fans ??? Not too concerned about the noise ehh ?
First install all the components, check the temps and if you still feel the need, add more fans...
That case has enough fans for very good airflow...
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November 19, 2009 10:45:47 AM

noise aint worry me one bit...lol
and this site here shows the CM hyper 212 plus beating the noctua...i don't know if the list is old, or what.

and i might just add the fans at the end...but ill still have 2x 90CFM fans already, one of which ill mount in the rear, the other then has to go somewhere. and so does the one i've just replaced. so either way, i still have 2 fans i need to put somewhere...and then if the cpu cooler has 1, theres an extra. i just need to know the best spots to put them
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a b 4 Gaming
November 19, 2009 10:57:04 AM

^ I highly doubt that is true...
The Noctua that I had linked is surely a better one...
Take a look at the 212's performance here...
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/cooler...
And check the Noctua beating the CM V8 and V10 in these tests...
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/core-i...

So I would suggest you take a look at better CPU coolers or replace the fans that come with 212 with 2 Scythe Slipstream/S-Flex 1600RPM fans...
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November 19, 2009 11:10:26 AM

yeah...i was replacing the stock 212 fans, probably with these ....2000rpm, and pretty cheap.

And i know, that in some cases the noctua wins...its weird. Some reviews show some better than others, and in different reviews, the result is totally opposite. In the end, the noctua ends up being $90.00, and the fans are 54CFM.
CM hyper 212 with 2x 70CFM @2000rpm +ocz freeze= $52 + 2x $12/fan + $6 = $82

and if i went with the noctua, do u think i would have to get more thermal paste,because it comes with NT-H1 paste? is this good enough for me?
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a b 4 Gaming
November 19, 2009 11:16:44 AM

The NH1 is better than most of the thermal pastes out there...
And as for that fan, its good...19 dBA operational, 70 cfm...
But still I would get the Noctua...
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November 19, 2009 11:19:02 AM

hmmm....kk.....might go with it....i don't know.....
i really need the comparison on more equal grounds...im still not decided either way, thanks to you...lol

and what about the options? where do u think i should put the extra 2 fans?

have a look at this
without the extra fans, noctua wins by 2C...but with better fans, i think the CM should win
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a b 4 Gaming
November 19, 2009 11:35:43 AM

^ Seriously seeing all those number, even am confused...
Go with the Hyper 212 and replace the fans...

As for extra fans,
how have you planned on plaing the 120MM fan at an angle ? I feel the option 3 and 4 would be good...
And when you install 2 fans on the CPU cooler, pushing the air towars the rear fan, it would also move out a lot of hot air outside...
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=14joqq8&s=5
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November 19, 2009 7:29:42 PM

kk...so ill put another 90CFM fan in 3)/4), and angle it out the back, through the pci-slots, as my first GPU is the same hieght as ur 4830 (in ur image). ill probably put it on the most vertical anlge i can, so as to push the most air OUT, rather than up (into the GPU) so that is option 3) in the image.

and where should i put the other 2 fans? in option 4), and option 5)? or where...?
thanks for your constant quick replies
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a b 4 Gaming
November 20, 2009 2:20:15 AM

^ I doubt 4 would have any effect as there are vents on the top side of the PSU...
So option 5 and option 6 would be better...
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November 20, 2009 2:32:44 AM

hmmm...but if the PSU is upside down, so it sucks air in from the bottom, would option 4) stop the air just sitting there? but im thinking the same as u: 5) and 6) would be better
thanks for the help, im ordering it tomorrow, or in way less than a week
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a b 4 Gaming
November 20, 2009 2:58:02 AM

^ Sorry I meant there are NO vents on the top(Missed the "NO")...
And there would be airflow in that segment(The big 200MM fan sucking in air from the front of the case) and anyways most of the case panels are perforated...
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November 20, 2009 5:31:39 AM

hmmm....ok...
i've ordered all the stuff: everything now. i got the hyper 212 plus, and i'll see how it fits. if i think the cooling isn't enough, ill add the extra 120mm fans into it.

the total is $2142, including i got a 1TB external hdd, with eSATA, usb 2.0, FireWire etc. (also WD). without that, its
$1529 for tower, inc postage and extra 2 fans (already purchased).
$153 for peripherals, including all postage
$139.85 for external, inc post
$300 for monitor
i don't think that adds up, but its about the max i was going to pay for it. ill update with pics later when its all installed, and running. I may make another thread for over-clocking it, and post some results there...

thanks again
MICK

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a b 4 Gaming
November 20, 2009 6:21:08 AM

^ Good Luck with your build...
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December 7, 2009 9:36:36 PM

hey guys
i got all my stuff on friday, and installed it saturday. the GPU is dead, as white lines appear all across the screen, and the fact that it doesn't even show up in Device Manager.

Fun, eh? I think not. Will post some pics and results of my overclocking as soon as it comes back. Unlike XFX to have a dead card....

MICK
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