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Y-Piece instead of T-piece?

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April 1, 2012 4:55:40 PM

For my second watercooling PC I want to not have a reservoir.

I know the common thing is use T-fitting but aquatuning does not have T connector for my 11.1" ID tubing, they actually have PVC 10mm that should work with hose clamps/zip ties but I'm worried risk of leaks.

I did find metal Brass Nickel Y-fitting 13mm so once warming the tube it will fit nice and with zip tie will be really well sealed.

Question: Is there any reason to not use a Y fitting 13mm Brass isntead of a T-fitting which I don't find?

The 10mm PVC T: http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p4029_Pr...



The 13mm Brass Y: http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p7129_13...

More about : piece piece

a c 190 K Overclocking
April 1, 2012 6:03:01 PM

You could use the 'Y' but make sure your loop flows as straight as possible,
and the drain/fill line is off the second part of the 'Y',
do you specifically need a german website for it?
Moto
April 1, 2012 6:17:27 PM

Well I want to order all stuff from one shop but I could split the order.

I'm in Sweden so it can be any EU watercooling store.
April 1, 2012 7:34:54 PM

Thank you.

I will use barbed 13mm fitting, I know that the Y-piece brass 13mm will work fine with my 11.1/15.9mm tubing while the 10mm T-piece is according aquatuning compatible.

I'll look into youre links.
a c 190 K Overclocking
April 1, 2012 7:37:26 PM

No probs man
Moto
a c 331 K Overclocking
April 2, 2012 2:25:23 PM

I agree with Moto- you could use Y or T...if you use Y for a fillport you'd want your flow to exit the single side of the Y and use the fillport and 'inlet' on the other end. This would be similar to using a 'T' and having the inlet/outlet being the straight through shot and the fillport being the leg of the T. Either would work.
a b K Overclocking
April 2, 2012 4:54:16 PM

*Technically* your flow losses will be lower with a Y-fitting than with a T-fitting (if setup properly). It's somewhat intuitive, but just know that it's also backed by years of engineering hydraulic analysis :) 

I used a T-fitting for a drain loop and never had issues since I had it set up like Rubix said.
April 3, 2012 1:20:16 AM

rubix_1011 said:
I agree with Moto- you could use Y or T...if you use Y for a fillport you'd want your flow to exit the single side of the Y and use the fillport and 'inlet' on the other end. This would be similar to using a 'T' and having the inlet/outlet being the straight through shot and the fillport being the leg of the T. Either would work.


Thanks for all suggestions :) 

I'm a bit tired and english is not my first language, according this clickable image rubix_1011 would you say my setup is good according you?

Also the image is illustrative, I might end up having the filltubing actually next to the rad, Rad is orange, pump red, Y-fitting blue, tubing green, the brown ball on top is filltubing sealed with fitting adaptor G1/4, so when I want fill drain I just screw it open and add another long tube with G1/4 fittting on to it

a c 331 K Overclocking
April 3, 2012 1:51:10 AM

It depends which way the flow is going. If the 'Y' is feeding the pump inlet, this is what I would recommend.
April 3, 2012 1:57:07 AM

yeah, basicaly also the radiator also works as reservoir considering it feeds the pump?

I was considering making the fill tube wery short and whenever I'm filling or draining connect another long tube to it as it has G1/4 connection that seals with cap.
April 4, 2012 3:09:54 AM

What do you guys think about that 10mm T-line?

My tubing has ID 11.1mm, according webshop I can use ID 11mm with additional fixation (hose clamps or zip ties).

I usually tighten my tubes with zip ties.
a c 190 K Overclocking
April 4, 2012 3:16:34 AM

Dip the end of the tube in boiling water to soften it then work it on, and clamp/ziptie it, it won't be too difficult but when it stiffens up it'll grip like a very tight grippy thing indeed :-p
*edit, that advice is for using the 13mm brass fitting, not the 10mm
April 6, 2012 2:18:46 AM

Motopsychojdn said:
Dip the end of the tube in boiling water to soften it then work it on, and clamp/ziptie it, it won't be too difficult but when it stiffens up it'll grip like a very tight grippy thing indeed :-p
*edit, that advice is for using the 13mm brass fitting, not the 10mm


that's what I usually do with 11.1mm ID on 13mm Brass fitting, however in the case of the T-line made of PVC and 10mm, the store link specifies that it can be used without fixation when using tubing 10mm ID.

It also states that with additional fixation it can be used with 11mm ID.

So I have ordered both the Y-piece 13mm and T-piece 10mm, if the Y-piece does not fit the build I'm considering the T-piece 10mm on 11.1mm ID as the link states it can be used with fixation.

I'm just a bit worried of leaking :sweat: 
a c 190 K Overclocking
April 6, 2012 2:37:23 AM

A wrap or two of ptfe, plumbers tape will pad it out if needed and help seal it,
:-)
Moto
April 6, 2012 2:56:17 AM

I was going to just use zip ties but I think for the 10mm T might be wise use that stuff instead.

Seems like ptfe is some kind of plastic tape made to seal it properly?
a c 190 K Overclocking
April 6, 2012 4:34:31 AM

Yup, thats the stuff, its really thin plastic tape, hardware shops should stock it
Moto
April 19, 2012 11:01:48 AM

Be careful using teflon tape make sure absolutely none of it gets into your loop, will catch on impingement plates, block pins,in the pump,possibly block flow or damage pump.Use tubing that fits correctly or you are asking for trouble.
a c 331 K Overclocking
April 19, 2012 2:42:34 PM

geriatric1116 said:
Be careful using teflon tape make sure absolutely none of it gets into your loop, will catch on impingement plates, block pins,in the pump,possibly block flow or damage pump.Use tubing that fits correctly or you are asking for trouble.



+1

When threading, teflon tape can become torn or shredded and you definitely don't want this making it's way into your loop, especially your pump.
!