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Corsair Obsdian 800D Case Mod Project

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January 27, 2010 8:47:31 PM

This custom Corsair Obsidian case project is for Canada's premiere hardware review site, "Hardware Canucks"





Here is some of the Case Mods & Supplies that will be used in this project

Acoustical Sound Proofing Sheets for your PC



http://www.mnpctech.com/colored_acrylic_sheet_casemod_w...



U-channel molding, http://www.mnpctech.com/UChannel.html


I'll be using these pop-rivets for computer cases, http://www.mnpctech.com/Pop_rivets_for_computer_case.ht...




Most Computer Chassis will accept 1/8” diameter size Pop rivets.








Hmmmm.... debating about the factory feet


Sorry, these factory feet MUST GO!


I just wanted to see how this rad grill looked on the Obsidian, thats all

I see some Chieftec cues in the manufacturing. The Obsidian reminded me of the old Alienware ALX chassis. The texture of the Matte Black finish as well




The front bezel assembly comes off easily


SATA Hot swappable HD bays

I'm not a fan of the Corsair "sail" window design, I'll take it Squared for this one..





After a quick alteration! Square is better in this case.





The Motherboard tray will slide out, but you must remove 3x screws and drill out 3x pop rivets, located in the rear (shown in photo) It would have been nice if the rivets were screws instead.

Maybe you've debated about painting your Obsidian chassis. This is how I remove the plastic "Tool-less" 5.25 bay sliders without breaking the tiny plastic tabs inside. These tabs hold the slider onto the bay. You will need to bend the metal tabs as I illustrate here. You need to first file down the sides of the metal tab, so it will sit flush when you flatten it (not shown). I will then tap the metal tab with a flat head screw driver using a rubber mallet.

Keep in mind if you're painting your chassis, you will need to bend the metal tabs back into place after re-installing the sliders. Doing this will likely chip your new paint! so you'll have to re-touch these tabs again. After considering this thought, I've decided to eliminate the sliders altogether. Corsair has left the option of fastening in your optical drive the traditional way with screws. Only 2 screws per side, but thats sufficient enough!
January 28, 2010 1:48:12 AM

Looks good so far. Did you have to make a new window to fit in after making the side view square? Also, are you going to need to remove the black matte before painting it to make sure everything fits when reassembling the case?

Keep up the good work and keep us posted!
January 28, 2010 5:08:12 PM

Thanks, Yes, I will have to make a new window now.. The factory finish might be corse enough to use for base coat

The Obsidian allows a 360 size radiator installation without any modification, but what fun is that? I just happen to have a new Hardware lab's Black Ice 420 GTX (3x 140mm) Radiator here. I'm altering the top panel of the Obsidian to accommodate it! The wider 420 rad requires surgery to the 5.25 Optical drive bay. You remove the 5.25 bay by drilling out all of the pop rivets on the front of the Obsidian chassis.

Supplies & Tools I used for this "photo illustrated" installation

Mnpctech 420 Radiator Grill from performance-pcs used for measuring the location.
You can also use these Radiator Mounting Templates
Masking Tape
Any Rotary tool like a Dremel
Jigsaw with 18 TPI or higher metal cutting blade
Center punch
Power Drill with 3/16" drill bit
12" Measuring Square
12x M4 x 35mm size socket head machine screws length of mounting screws on what fan/rad set-up works best for your system.
3x ??????? brand 140mm cooling fans (to be announced)



























more to come!
Related resources
January 28, 2010 7:09:25 PM

Nice, just wanted to thank you guys for all the great videos on YouTube, etc. You made me take another look at my Dremel ! The possibilities are endless. Greetings from Cape Cod , MA, USA
January 28, 2010 9:55:04 PM

Thank you, awesome avatar btw!

I grabbed wrong screws on the way to the shop for the rad/grill/fans, so I'll have to continue on it tommorrow.

Here is the revised file for the 140mm fan grill




80mm Honeycomb Acrylic Fan Grill, http://www.mnpctech.com/Computer_Fan_Grills_Laser_PC_Fa...









I also plan to sleeve the Power Supply Cables with one of these custom white PSU cable sleeve kits

24 Pin ATX Power Supply Removal & Molex Pin Extractor Tools when custom sleeving your Power Supply and Molex connectors.







I'm using these
Fan vibration rubber grommets

I use a Micro Flat head screw driver to install the Fan vibration rubber grommets.



Give the fan hole a professional look by installing

U-channel rubber trim



The U-channel molding will cover any mistakes or scratches made while cutting the fan hole.



]#10-5/8 Black cooling fan screws

" target="_blank"> to mount the fan



I use a Micro Flat head screw driver to install the Fan vibration rubber grommets.



Give the fan hole a professional look by installing

U-channel rubber trim



The U-channel molding will cover any mistakes or scratches made while cutting the fan hole.



]#10-5/8 Black cooling fan screws

[/center]
a c 248 ) Power supply
January 28, 2010 11:15:12 PM

Nice fan grill design. Since it's for Hardware Canucks shouldn't it be Canadian Red?
a b ) Power supply
January 29, 2010 2:05:02 AM

^ That's what I was thinking too. And case should be all read & white.
a c 248 ) Power supply
January 29, 2010 2:09:20 AM

red with white accents! :D 
January 29, 2010 3:33:44 PM

Thats just Green because of our Cad software.. hehe

I'm removing the factory perforated grill to help improve airflow. This mod will also cut down on airflow noise from your cooling fans.


To avoid creating scratches in the factory finish, apply masking tape over the area you're going to be cutting.


The Obsidian uses "doomed" pop rivets, which doesn't allow the grill to sit flush. I will swap these out to the more flush "countersunk" pop rivets.


Use 1/8" size drill bit to remove the factory pop-rivet


Pop-rivet Tool (Gun)


Tracing the inside diameter of the grill opening.


Using the first 140mm fan grill design, to mark off the location for the hole.


Using Dremel 1.5" cutting wheel to make initial cut into the chassis


Using Jigsaw with 18 TPI metal cutting blade






The case panel lip was removed with the Dremel to fit around the grill.

January 30, 2010 10:40:41 PM

Next I need to get the rad fitted properly so I can get everything off to paint soon.





The rad grill pictured here is a 420 (3x140mm) it's machined from 3/16" 6061 aluminum, and anodized Black. It has fully adjustable inserts.
Different sizes and finishes of these rad grills are available from performance-pcs and they ship worldwide!












Using 3/16" drill bit to make mounting screw holes.


This is how my initial cut out for the radiator looked.

I attempted to install the grill/rad/fans, but the remaining "recessed" material wouldn't everything to fit together flush without using different size screws. I then decided to modify the panel further by removing the remaining honeycomb perforation and flatten the lip.

The recessed center portion of the top panel helps reinforce rigidity. However, the chassis is steel, so I don't believe it was too detrimental to do this. I think it would have been fine to have left the panel flat. I would consider designing the panel perforations in a Obsidian 2.0 with optional for both 360 or 420 size radiators.


Flattening the fold was done by turning the chassis upside down on the bench, and flattening the folds with a rubber mallet. Now I could use M4 x 30mm length machine screws to attach everything together.












I installed the three included 140mm fans from Corsair to pre-fit everything.

All of the 140mm fans will be replaced by another brand to be announced.
January 31, 2010 7:35:29 AM

oh man i wish i could mod like this. I Havent ever modded before but i plan to when i get my new case lol.
January 31, 2010 10:54:05 AM

Everyone has a first time for everything. Glad to hear you're gonna try it :) 
February 3, 2010 9:13:18 PM

We finished the HC logo inspired window frame today. This was made from 1/8" thick aluminum.







a c 248 ) Power supply
February 4, 2010 12:40:50 AM

very nice!
February 4, 2010 2:54:39 PM

Thank you Johnny!

We finished the custom HC logo 3x140mm rad grill last night.. each of the grill are 360 degree adjustable...just for fun :D :







February 5, 2010 2:13:35 PM

Sometimes it's just easier to remove parts like the switches and led lenses instead of taping them off before we prep for custom paint. The Obsidian power and reset switches can be removed with a soldering iron.







a c 248 ) Power supply
February 5, 2010 2:19:10 PM

Of course you could always replace them with some fancy switches. I used your switch plate from your online store and a couple of those Bulgin style switches for a case mod.
February 5, 2010 10:33:03 PM

Next time tell me advance, I'll toss in a shirt. Thank you Johnny :D 

I thought about that too, but actually like Corsair's switch and I/O bay.

The power switch bay all taped up, ready for prep and paint. Now I just need to decide what paint color I will do.


Taping off the inside wall of the side panels from over spray.


.
February 5, 2010 11:04:05 PM

looking good
February 6, 2010 11:55:33 AM

Thank you climb!

Anything you can remove instead of masking off, makes a custom paint job much more professional looking. If you decide to paint your Obsidian, you may or may not consider removing the panel release button and rod assembly.



To remove the button, you'll need to poke in 4, release tabs with a small screw driver from the inside of the case.

Red arrow shows location of one of the 4, plastic tabs



Remove the release button trim ring in the same manner



Then you can remove the 4, tiny black screws. The rod is attached to the front of the chassis in the same manner, but without the button assembly.

Each rod has one spring one the button side.

Store these springs and fasteners in a plastic bag so they don't get lost!

February 6, 2010 7:00:57 PM

The color sample book of the Paint Gods, HOUSE OF KOLOR



Staying faithful to the Maple Leaf tied into design, I decided on Candy Apple Red.




This mini "skull" was painted with the Candy Apple Red..... Imagine the Obsidian painted this color!



February 6, 2010 7:18:43 PM

This is really inspirational, being a welder/fabricator that is. Iv been wanting an Obsidian for ages and thought there was no chance but mine came (fri-5th-feb). Ill be going water cooling at some stage so im going in, lol. Great work and cant wait to see final product all the best monster.

Dan
a c 248 ) Power supply
February 6, 2010 7:19:26 PM

Candy apple red? oooooohhhhhh - memories of hot rods, drag racing, and Big Daddy Don Garlits!
February 6, 2010 11:08:36 PM

Go Canada (it'd be cool if they showcased your case at the Winter Olympics)
February 11, 2010 2:04:18 PM

Thanks for tuning and commenting guys! I hope this project will the raise the bar for all customized Obsidian cases

Here is some photos taken while we sandblasted the chassis. The factory finish on the 800D is very thick and coarse, so it required 80 grit blasting sand



February 16, 2010 9:14:49 PM

Here is the Obsidian chassis drying after final application of HoK Kandy Apple Red automotive paint.





February 16, 2010 9:21:33 PM

ooo sexy. Hey mawd got any tips for modding that owuld be a good plpace to start for a beginner? ( Mostly so far i want to mod the window in some way on my k-62, but not sure if i should with it having those weird things holding on the Pglass ).
a b ) Power supply
February 16, 2010 9:21:50 PM

Wow this is looking great, its fitting since I feel that HardwareCanuks' case reviews are simply second to none.
a c 248 ) Power supply
February 16, 2010 9:41:10 PM

If you're going to do the entire exterior in candy apple red, then you need to add yellow flames just like a 1950's hot rod! :D 
February 17, 2010 10:09:52 AM

Been awhile since I have been on here MonsterMawd,

But what can I say your mods always interest me. Loved your Antec 300 case mod, so much in fact that I have gone out and bought one at Micro center for only $44 bucks on sale and plan on modding it out...

I just picked up a Q9950 and replaced bad caps on a Intel board that was given to me, (my first cap's repair and solder job) and It came out very nice, mother board is stable after 2 weeks of testing it. I plan on modding the Antec case and lining it with Granite inside and out, in a Granite color that will be in theme with Leopard colors and have a nice back lit Apple cut out of a white glass product. After looking through the X86 projects it will make a nice build for Retail Snow. I upgraded the graphics cards in my main rig I built the case by hand and lined with granite and dropped my 4870 into the Antec 300 rig.

I was hoping you would mod this new case from Corsair, I can't wait to see what you guys come up with when it is finished. I have a guy that I have sold Three Apple laptops to that I have refurbed and upgraded to the max for, and there is a chance that he and some buddys are going to be getting a Laser Jet cutter and I will have access to it very soon and it will be at his home shop about 30 min from me. Looking at some of your mods that you have done, and knowing what can be done when your not doing ever thing by hand has me looking forward to some serious custom case mods, and builds of my own design.

You inspire me, and I can't wait to see the case when it is finished! Nice choice on the Red btw, its the same I picked for my custom granite case I did a few months back.

Keep the pics coming, can't wait to see the final product!

February 18, 2010 6:48:55 PM

yes, thats the look ! again great stuff. Cant stop messing with my case just need a paint job lol.
February 26, 2010 3:34:29 PM

Happy to hear that my project inspired you medjohnson! The 300 is great case for cost. Thank you for tuning into this project log and commenting :) 

Thank you for the post GRdiablo!

Fresh coat of clear on the Red Candy Apple on the chassis.





Yes, and the backside of the bezel was painted too!





a b ) Power supply
February 27, 2010 12:46:34 AM

damn....nice job...aka AWESOME
February 27, 2010 3:22:59 AM

Lookin sweet, I'm sittin here all googly eyed n my old pc case is leanin away from me for some reason. lol
a c 248 ) Power supply
February 27, 2010 6:37:08 AM

Looking good. Post a pic of the finished case.
February 27, 2010 10:29:30 AM

Thanks for the nice feedback guys!

Will do Johnny, still have side panels and grill to paint this weekend :) 
February 28, 2010 5:46:14 AM

It's just so...........so..........purty
February 28, 2010 11:50:38 AM

It might be that red is my favourite colour that's making me drool more than usual over this mod! Looking forward to seeing how the grills are gunna look and if the colour is goin to be different. :pt1cable: 
March 1, 2010 9:32:01 PM

Thanks guys! We should have the paint completed by this Friday!
March 4, 2010 11:56:50 AM

can't wait to see the pics MonsterMawd.... looking very good so far!
March 8, 2010 1:39:36 PM

Please post the finished pics of the case and nice job....
March 8, 2010 9:56:55 PM

everything is finished, just taking my sweet time with assembly, so nothing gets wrecked :pt1cable: 

5.25 bay covers are finished!


Hot Swappable bay door :cool:
March 9, 2010 2:52:15 PM

The bezel is finished. I'm waiting for the sun to come back, so I can go outside and take photos of the paint.





The Hot Swappable bay

March 9, 2010 7:12:25 PM

So far, everything looks good. Can't wait to see the finished polished job.
March 10, 2010 12:17:56 AM

Wow! Good stuff. I'm also all for the yellow flames on the side. :D 
March 10, 2010 1:52:02 AM

very nice Monster, can't wait to see more
March 11, 2010 10:43:26 AM

Thanks everybody! I installed 140mm Xigmatek XLF-F1455 140mm cooling fan (1000 RPM, 63.5 CFM @ 16 dBA) cooling fan and billet "Hardware Canucks" grill mounted on the Hot Swappable bay.



March 11, 2010 8:41:40 PM

The rear Xigmatek XLF-F1455 140mm cooling fan (1000 RPM, 63.5 CFM @ 16 dBA) cooling fan and billet "Hardware Canucks" grill.



!