Are these good parts?

I'm building a 2nd watercooling PC and decided to also get some stuff for my current system, I think it is OK overall?

The stuff I think are compatible aswell.
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More about good parts
  1. I don't understand, you can't build a system out the parts provided, where is the rest. maybe you could list them off for me.
  2. I have Laing DDC1-t pump for the new build with two fullcover gpu blocks.
    I will use the Y-fitting instead of reservoir in a modified Fractal R2 case(removed harddrive + DVD).

    Build 2:

    Fractal R2 case removed all front cages.
    Front will have the Aquacomputer radiator(already measured it fits with som tweaking).
    Laing DDC-1t with XPtop decoupled by shoggy sandwich.
    2x Fullcover gpu blocks.
    Cpu is cooled by Ninja plus rev.B air cooler.
    The Y-fitting will go to rad and cpu and the other "arm" will go to a sealed tube which acts as filling tube/reservoir.

    I will not have a reservoir in this build.

    Build 1:

    This build is currently working with 2radiators, D5 vario pump, and fullcover gpu block.
    I'm considering removing the reservoir and replace it with a Y-fitting which will go to cpu, front rad and fillport in top.
    I will also add a Fillport in the top hole and it is to my understanding 100% compatible with the one I ordered now.
    I will decouple the D5 vario pump with Shoggy sandwich to even further minimize noises.
  3. yea looks cool (I use wetter water as an additive to prevent the possibility of cerotic corrosion) but other than that this set up looks fine. have you ever had problems with tubing getting hard or do you jest replace it. . and consider the fact that pumps do fail. a flow meter is a must have to see when this will occur (the pump slows before it stops).
  4. You mean it fails not dies, so it actually will work after pc restart?

    I did not know about flow meters, I think Ive seen them on pictures on google before.

    I'm new to watercooling still, the Tygon tube is wery soft still, this will get hard over time?

    I don't think hard tubing is problem unless it starts to crack and break down if that can happen, also I got cheap tubing now as you can see Masterkleer tubing PVC 15,9/11,1mm (7/16"ID) UV-active red
  5. Oh also I want with time learn to setup either a software so that if temperatures reach wery high temperatures or if pump fails that PC shuts off immediately.

    I think maybe there is this function in my motherboard bios aswell.

    So if I know that my CPU and GPU never go above 55c at 100% load, then if the temperature reaches ever 56celsius the PC auto shuts off to save components.
  6. good point, but what I had happen to me was when the pump failed, and because the processor was o-clocked, it fried before the shut down could occur( Pentium extreme series processor) had fail safes on board to. it saved everything else though. the problem was that the processor also melted to the socket, making the motherboard useless as well(and yes the tubing will get hard and break down eventually cracking) I now use chemical resistant tubing it seems to have solved the problem six years and still fine
  7. That's a bit worrying, I have a Thuban X6 1045t, it is 95w and atm not overclocked.

    I do wan't to overclock it in future but having it die because pump failure worries me.

    Was youre pump fine itself or did it die aswell?
  8. that particular pump was a older style swiftech, I thank it was the 455 series, predecessor to the 655. the 455 only lasted 3 years, and at the time I had no idea how to judge when a pump was going bad. now I know that when it starts to slow you have 2 to 4 weeks before it fails completely. don't let this concern you, keep in mind knowing is half the battle (GI Joe) sorry , but really it's not a big deal jest something you learn over time.
  9. I'm not a fan of flow meters, but I know that some people use them. I have RealTemp setup to run a shutdown on my box if either my CPU or GPUs reach a certain temp threshold and I have the software to run at startup. It's hard to really determine if your pump is having issues with a flow meter since it may not spin the same speed all the time- remember that most are based on some kind of wheel spinning in the flow of the water, and this can develop issues and slow or stop spinning when nothing is wrong with the pump (i.e. corrosion or debris).

    Also, you mention the wheel spinning 'slower' are you going to recall or determine how fast the wheel is spinning after 1-2 years? What happens if it stops spinning when you aren't watching it? :/
  10. well you're out of luck! and the flow meter I have uses the system fan plug in to give a BS flow read, mine shows 3600 were the fan speed would be, if this number drops below 3000 there is good possibility that the pump has slowed down and it will continue to slow on regular basis, if this happens it needs to be replaced. and as I stated these pumps should last 3 to 5 years so if it is past the 3 year mark jest start watching for it. as for partials in your system this should not happen to anyone, if you're using water you have to flush it all the time (do not use tap water only distilled) I use antifreeze and flush every 8 months to a year, any way never encountered that issue. but a buddy of mine tried tap water once and after about 6 months he had mold in the system. it did take a while to clean it all out and he never made that mistake agene, he has not had any issues since.
  11. There is always a chance that tubing will plasticize and then flake off and can become embedded in the wheel, etc. Some folks with new systems might not get everything out when flushing rads or might even get a rogue piece of plastic from a reservoir or pump housing. Most of what I mentioned would (and could be) hypothetical and shouldn't be taken for granted.

    As for Swiftech/Laing pumps- I've used the same D5 Vario for around 6-7 years and is still going very strong.
  12. wow! what you're talking about could destroy a pump, if sizable partials were to get in it. and the tubing issue is a real concern but that takes at least 2 years to occur. so for some that replace there tubing every year they would never see that issue. and I use chemical resistant tubing it has been six years, and I haven't had it even start to get hard. but for as long as that pump has been running, I am willing to bet that you do not leave your system running all the time, 24-7 is what I mean. and yes if you are shutting the system down every couple of days for a few hours, or even every day during the time that you sleep, than yes your pump will run considerably longer.
  13. No, I do not run my rig 24/7- there is no need for me to do so.

    As for plasticizer, it can build up relatively quickly depending on your loop and specific conditions. There are some users that are seeing extreme buildup in as little as 1-3 months and some flaking has occurred. This typically doesn't impact the majority of flow or even clogging, but particulate matter could clog a rotating flow meter, depending on which one used.

    I saw plasticizer fogging a loop in as quickly as 3-5 days when I was doing some testing on potential causes last fall. There are several different suggested causes and each seems a little different than the other- tubing type/manufacturer, killcoil or not, biocide or not, block and radiator brand, how new/old components were...etc.

    It's really hard to nail down the causes and conditions, but it IS what degree varies.
  14. now I have learned something, never seen it happen so fast 3-5 days that's quick. for it to start that fast, it would have to be the product design at that point. meaning not designed for this purpose at all, I know that some manufacturers have got a bad rap. I would guess that this is the reason why, I jest always avoided them didn't really pay any attention to why they had a bad reputation. did wont to take the chance on them to find out why ether, but I do understand what you're saying. by the way why so opposed to flow meters even if the propeller stops it won't stop the water flow maybe restrict it but it's not as if it will clog the system, preventing water flow.
  15. I personally have been able to look at my loop every couple of days and tell it's running fine. My reservoirs have been externally mounted for the past 4 years or so, making it simple to see movement of flow. The only reason I dislike flow meters is that you might not notice the meter has stopped moving to know your pump has failed. (I don't look at my loop constantly.) I have temp software to monitor CPU and GPU temps...I know that if either of the 3 temps rises above a certain threshold, the PC will auto-shutdown immediately. This threshold is set fairly reasonable and occurs long before any possible damage or built-in shutdowns and well enough over 100% sustained load temps to falsely trigger.
  16. fair enough! it's not the only solution, its jest what I choose to do. my res is in the case, and I don't look at it all the time jest occasionally, and jest to see how much water has evaporated over the months. so I guess what I am saying, and so are you, is that we keep a eye on that. I just chose a different route than you did.
  17. You shouldn't have any water evaporating- your loop is closed. What you are likely seeing is air that might be trapped makes it's way out of your loop and into your reservoir, displacing the water in there. While I do agree that tubing is permeable to some degree, I really doubt you lose enough water volume in this manner to even be noticeable. Displacement of air in your loop (or even a very slow leak) would likely be the difference in the noticeable volume change.
  18. it's not maybe a teaspoon a year, is that too much, if so I have a leak, and the others that I have built.
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