APPROXIMATE PURCHASE DATE: Week of Thanksgiving (2 weeks from now)
BUDGET RANGE: $1000 (before rebates). There's about $90 or so in flexibility currently.
SYSTEM USAGE FROM MOST TO LEAST IMPORTANT: Gaming, like everyone else on the planet.
PARTS NOT REQUIRED: Monitor*, Mouse, Keyboard
*Willing to upgrade my monitor, though I will have to get back to you guys on what it is.
PREFERRED WEBSITE(S) FOR PARTS: Newegg.
PARTS PREFERENCES: Intel, though I'm not really that choosy.
OVERCLOCKING: Maybe, though for now I'd like to build it before I mess with overclocking. One rock at a time.
SLI OR CROSSFIRE: Someone explain to me what it is D:
MONITOR RESOLUTION: Will get back to you.
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: I've never built a computer before. Would prefer something that's not going to require me to be really good to build. ><
Also, I think all of it works together but don't make too much fun of me if I made some silly "oh this doesn't works" mistake. =(
Right now it's at... around $910. Looking forward to any advice you guys can give me- if there are any parts that spending a few bucks more can increase the longevity and/or compatibility of this machine, that'd be amazing.
I wanted to ask a quick question about the Samsung F3s... Are they significantly better then WD Blacks? I have 6 WD Blacks queued for order, but you're not the only one that mentioned to swap out for the F3s
The Caviar Black is a great HDD and it will do nicely. However, the F3 is cheaper, faster and equally reliable. Is the difference large enough to swap them out? I don't think so. But if you're buying a new pc today, I'd buy the Samsungs.
With that budget, you're going to be a lot happier if you go AMD. You can pick up an X4 955 for $175, there are some VERY nice combo deals on Newegg with that processor, and you can get away with a cheaper ASUS AMD motherboard because you'll be going single GPU and you won't be overclocking much.
That'll save you the coin to upgrade to a Radeon HD 5850. I just built a similar rig for $1050 (including 9.25% TN sales tax!) while spending twice as much on the case and adding an after-market CPU cooler. I did go with slower RAM timings to save $25.
You'll need to place the order for a 5850 now, though. Supposedly the supply problems will sort themselves out in the next few weeks, but you'll want to get your spot in the backorder line now. Buy from Amazon; they won't charge you until they fulfill, they have the lowest price and you can always cancel if you find one elsewhere first.
Another tip: I just bought that PSU from Best Buy for $85. If you spend $100 (before S/H & tax) this week with them using Paypal, they'll put $20 back into your PayPal account. That's more reliable than Newegg's mail-order rebate.
Yes, Intel makes stronger processors. But in your price range, the best price/performance combination is to skimp on the processor and board a bit in order to max out your GPU performance. The difference isn't that great until you start overclocking, and you won't be doing heavy O/Cing with that case and PSU.
Also, one more vote for the Samsung. I've had to replace two Western Digital drives in the last ten years (old one in a Gateway and an early Raptor), and Seagate's quality control isn't what it was.
SLI/Crossifre are simply propriety technologies of NVidia and ATI allowing more than one GPU card to work together. There are a number of articles that discuss how load is shared and where it is most effective.
My observation in your rig is if you use two 4890's in Crossfire you will not have enough power connectors. That card requires a 2*6pin connector for each card and that 650W supply only has 2 x 6(+2)pin connectors.
You can learn more about different power connectors here: http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors....