hello this is a build made for extreme gaming/overclocking and water cooling system. i need suggestions from really experienced people .
my list of parts are :
cpu: intel i-7 3820 sandy bridge lga 2011( will be changing as soon as the LGA 2011 ivy bridge-e processors come out)
motherboard: Asus sabertooth x79 lga 2011
GPU: 1 gtx 680 with watercooling vga blocks( will buy a 2nd one later)
SSD: corsair force 60gb sata 3
hardrive: 1.0tb harddrive 7200 rpm
ram:4 x 4gb corsair dominator 1866mhz
case: cooler master haf-x ( my personal favorite)
watercooling kit: EK h30 360 HFX cooling kit
alot of fans that will be changed to higher quality fans with fan controller
NOW you may see in my list that i didnt mention a PSU as i do not know much of my science about volts, amps and wattage
and that i no that 1 gtx 680 only takes 195watts though 2 takes somewhat of a 750-800watt psu i believe. though from most of my research and as you can see i will be getting a water cooling kit with a 360mm radiator which possibly means more wattage. Now my question is what should be my PSU to handle all this wattage.
If you are getting an extreme build, why only a 60gb ssd? they're becoming cheaper now, so I'd recommend just to get a 120gb SSD. As for PSU, 850will be enough but get a 1000W so you can have room to upgrade parts later.
this is one loaded question so I am jest going to address the water-cooling section of this, , I have bought EK and still use that water block today. not overly thrilled with the construction of these products, but it's functional, and other than replacing the factory seals haven't had any real issues to speak of out of them. here are the issues that I have run into(long time water cooling enthusiast myself) with tubing and additives, don't worry about cerotic corrosion wetter water prevents it. the tubing will get hard after a couple of years (I switched to chimerical resistant tubing eventually, I did not like the price.) but it's been six years no problems, not even starting to get hard. the order of the parts in the loop, can make a little difference go from most restrictive to least, this is just a opinion but I like to give myself a little room to move or remove parts from the system, without having to remove everything. I achieve this by making the length of my tubing between 12 in. and 24 in. in length depending on how close the parts are to each, after being mounted. I like swiftech. the first pump I ever owned only lasted 3 years, so I bought from a different company, got 2 years out of it. went back to swiftech, now I get a solid 5 years out of their products, when it comes to pumps. I have blocks from them 13 years old still use them even if not for their intended purpose. I like to experiment, so I have used their old processor blocks to try and extend the life of the cd rom, by applying it to the bottom of it and hopefully cooling it down, never hurts to try, right. I do not like the swiftech line of reservoirs or the EK line of reservoirs. I do like the bits power reservoirs, but there the only ones that I have ever used. so what am I saying here maybe consider building from the ground up. but that is not even the way I started I bought a swiftech Q-power starter system with case. I was a little timid about jumping into water cooling without any kind of guide to go by, but you have a guide, and a lot of them right here. like I said this is only one persons opinion, there are a lot of others that you should hear, before you make a decision.
well this is what i mean, http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/MSDS%20Wat...
and specs, it does not work to well for what it's designed for. but it does not allow cerotic corrosion to occur within the loop it stops the ph from climing to high on the acidic side. buy bonding to the different types of metal that may be floating around in the system(these particles are too small to see with the naked eye).for thoes how haven't figured this out yet I am dyslexic it's "water wetter" sorry about that.
I like the changes you made to your build from last nights thread. Your going to want an 850w PSU for SLI 680s especially if your overclocking. Your watercooling so that's probably a given. You'd definately be better off with a 120 GB SSD. 60 is a bit small for more than just a couple of programs. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
Both are good products and modular. You don't really need a modular PSU. The HAF-X has plenty of cable management features but at your price point why not. It helps things look nice and clean.
thanks masseybe once again my build will be ordered soon(except for these bloody graphic cards that are always sold out-_-).Im very patient so ill build it up and test bench everything in case stuff don't work. im sure later on my gtx 680s will arrive. i like your answers so ill be getting a 900watts PSU in case i give it some little upgrades like more red LED's and what not. my mb 4pin fan headers will have a couple of 4 pins in their. Reason being is that my 360mm fan rad will go straight to the controller, also the front panel fan so thats already 4. the rest goes into my 4-pins like the rear fan, side fan, gpu fan(haf-x gpu air duct i can place a 80x 15mm fan) and maybe if im lucky the other gpu air duct might fit because these air duct are only compatible with the gtx 480 and i can put a 120mm fan... RED LED . FANS ARE EVERYWHERE !
I'm not a fan of buying really expensive hardware (MB and CPU) simply to be able to connect an extra two, $10 fans into the MB headers.
Much better options:
yea i used to do that in my previous builds , cheap on mbs and cpus , plus i was an amd fan and i don't mind Intel nor amd. this is my first intel build and i know and this will outrage my amd pcs even though these amds are really recent. i mean i do have all the money for this absolutely sexy build plus its my first time in water cooling. soo i decided to go all out with good quality and also test bench all my parts which might take a couple of days take my time. i am using fan controller only 4 channel only for the fans that are close to the controller because i do want to use my motherboard a lot and go into the new bios and fix all my rpms and what not and use most of the plugs on the motherboard. i do want this such quality motherboard because this will be my primary build that i will keep for a serious couple of years like 5-7
5-7 years is an eternity in PC hardware terms. If you get 3-4 years out of it, you'd be doing rather well. Even my Q6600 quad likely could have been pushed a little further than I did, but hardware advances to quickly that it becomes outdated and processing power per clock also improves. I just don't really see the justification of spending so money like that on CPU/MB mainly because it has more fan headers- there are much better ways to do this, but it's your money.