XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 WaterCooling Kit

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plattman02

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i literally JUST put in my XSPC Rasa 750 RX360 WaterCooling Kit, but i modded it to cool 2 560 tis and my cpu. in the process it goes though 2 3x140mm radiators.

i turned my computer on for the first time and let it run to bubbles out and everything and my pump stopped working...no leaks, nothing. could it have been that the pump was overworked?
 
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ok then, you're not going to like this, but you can try to send the pump and res. back to the company for replacement and reinstall. or you could buy a new pump and separate res. for this build. the pump seems to be dying on you they slow down jest before they stop completely.

plattman02

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well i turned the pump on after i couldnt fill the reservoir with water any more, and kept filling it until it had enough water.

straight from my reservoir it goes up to a radiator in the top of the case. but when it was coming out the outward tube, there was just a huge air bubble, more like a waterfall that was not going to get itself out. so i laid the pc on its side, and the bubbles vanished.

it ran like that for a while, and i wanted to switch the pump molex plug with a different molex, so i (while the computer was on) unplugged the pump and plugged it back in. and when i plugged it into the new molex, it started puttering, as if it were hardly working. so i unplugged it and plugged it back in and it did the same noise. so i repeated and then it stopped.
 

toolmaker_03

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what you have described would not destroy that pump I know that this might sound mean but did you clean your new system before install. there might be something inside the pump stopping it ( EX: a small piece of plastic from the construction of the system itself)and another thing I never install anything before letting it run for at least couple of days outside of the computer case( EX: old power supply and some floor space) all on its own easer to diagnose issues to.
 

plattman02

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also, i simply hooked it up to a 12v power supply and it sparked when i touched the wire to wire.

so if it were dead, would there be a complete circuit to make the spark?
....actually the water could complete the circuit nvm...
 

toolmaker_03

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well I would remove the system from the case, and drain it than clean and refill. FYI if the water was completing the circuit the system would run slow if at all, the more pure the water (EX: distilled water) the less likely it is to conduct electricity at all. if the water is completely pure, it is a pure insulator, with means that it will not conduct at all hope this helps.
 

plattman02

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Ok thanks a bunch!
 

toolmaker_03

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hay it wouldn't hurt to add a fill/flush system to the loop hay, here is how I do a fill system for my builds. http://www.fastfittings.com/plastic-push-in-fittings I use two T's and three shut off valves, you can usually find these at a hardware store. configured in this order T than shout off valve than the second T this should make a straight shot from one end to the other, now where the T's branch off is where the other two shout off valves go. now I usually would attach this right after the pump but any where will work. now you have the ability to force the system to flow throw a make shift reservoir. a 2 liter container or half gallon container works well for this purpose. attach hoses about two feet long to the ends of the two shout off valves, and put both of them into the container. you will need to fill the container with distilled water or whatever you use as a liquid coolant. ok so you know the direction of the flow, that is that, one of the hoses is putting water into the container. while the other one would be pulling water out of the container, pull the draw line out of the container. the easiest way I have found to prime a system is to either use a large syringe( not the type with a needle)but used for filling medical nutrition bags, for line feeders, or a squeeze bottle with a end that is large enough to be pushed into the end of the hose to make a tight fit. then start filling your system as much as possible by hand. then when you don't think that you can get any more air out of the system by hand. fill the intake hose as much as possible and shove it back into the container and turn your pump on. it may take a little time to get all of the air out of the system but the pump should be able to handle it from here. once all of the air is out of the system simply turn the intake and outlet valves off and the center valve to the on position remove the fill hoses from the shout off valves and you are done. this might help to get the air out of the system.
 

noob2222

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How high are the radiators compared to the resivior. You may be pushing the limits of that particular pump. I have mine through 2 rads, 2 gpu, and cpu. I mounted the res as high as I could and even so, the flow isn't the graetest, but works the way I have it. Ek blocks on my 6970s

Top rad iis only 4 inches or so above the res. You may be over the head pressure.
 

plattman02

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the pump/ res is only about 4 inch below my highest radiator as well. The pump is in the drive bay.

I've tried everything to try to get what (if there is anything) is in the way out of the way.

I'm hooking my pump up to a 12v power supply to check it tp see if it works. When I hook it up though it makes a very soft high pitched sounds, almost inaudible. I'm wondering if that sound is hopeless or not? Is it the sound of the pump trying to move? And if it was dead would it be able to make any noise at all?

Also, I've been looking down the valve to the pump rotor or blade or whatever and moving it with a tiny screwdriver to see if I can free anything...the thing is though is that it moves but it just goes back to where it was before I pushed it, in both directions? Any suggestions? I can't take it apart or anything because its inside a reservoir and that's fixed.
 

toolmaker_03

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wooooh!!! there it's ok don't freak it's a steeper motor, and the reaction that you are getting from it is normal!! the fact that it hums is a good thing, did you read the post I placed earlier. if so what you had is called a air lock of the system, this means that there was still too much air in the loop for the pump to handle. they really can't handle any air at all for long periods of time, in my opinion. but there is arguments to this issue to the contrary. regardless I thank that your fine, please do not poke at the motor propeller the seals don't like that. build a fill system for the loop and try agene.
 

toolmaker_03

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here is a look at how i build a fill and flush system

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/204/fillsystem002.jpg/

it should make things easier
 

plattman02

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my loop: pump/res--->radiator---->cpu---->radiator---->both gpus---->pump/res

so what youre saying toolmaker_03 is that if it is airlocked, that with water in the pump it should work again? because it stopped working when there was water in the system
 

rubix_1011

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OK, first, let's dispel some common misunderstandings.

A water loop pushes water as much as it pulls...similar to a loop of rope around a pulley. What you are encountering is an air lock- the pump isn't able to dislodge air in your loop.

Are you seeing air pockets in your tubing? Is water sloshing in the reservoir? Please stop shorting wires in your case unless you like replacing power supplies or the majority of components in general. It takes very little to fry a lot of gear in a PC, so just be aware when you are shorting out wires to see if they 'spark'.
it ran like that for a while, and i wanted to switch the pump molex plug with a different molex, so i (while the computer was on) unplugged the pump and plugged it back in. and when i plugged it into the new molex, it started puttering, as if it were hardly working. so i unplugged it and plugged it back in and it did the same noise. so i repeated and then it stopped.

You really shouldn't do this while the power supply is running. Also, is your ATX plug jumpered? (recommended when filling a loop) Or are you simply powering on your machine normally? (not recommended)

Pump whine is fairly normal for these pumps.

Again, what you are encountering is very likely an airlock. Your pump inlet isn't getting water to discharge out the outlet so it's stalling. You can do a couple things: add a T-line just before your pump inlet to use to fill with a funnel to maintain enough water so the pump doesn't airlock, or continually start/stop the pump when you are trying to completely fill and prime your loop.

Please add some pictures of your loop if you can, in case there is more to this issue than just an airlock, such as, are your GPUs setup correctly to allow flow through either serial or parallel.
 

toolmaker_03

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yes there was still too much air, and not enough water in the loop to prime the system properly for operation. even after the pump is capable of moving the water through the loop it will still takes me a day or two of working at it, to get all the air out of the system. little bubbles hear, little bubbles there, hidden throughout the system, it's fun to find them all.
 

plattman02

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So what will actually get the pump back running again? Because I've filled it completely up with water separate from the loop and pluggled it in and still nothing. It seems as though what everyone is saying is that it should simply work with enough water...
 

toolmaker_03

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what power supply are you using to power the pump at this point? is it the one for the computer and if so is the power supply plugged in the motherboard? if not the power supply must be jumped in order to send power to the rest of the plugs. pleases do not plug it back into the motherboard unless you have air cooling attached to your components to prevent them from being damaged. same goes for if you are using a old power supply it needs to be jumped ( jumped is the completion of a circuit via a wire or connector made for this purpose )
 

toolmaker_03

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well this is something that I would rather not try to explain, and they say that a pitcher is worth a thousand words, in this case I believe that they are very much correct. so here is a picture of a connector used for this purpose
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/835/psconnshort.gif/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/835/psconnshort.gif
I would suggest buying a connector for this purpose
that way your other power lines will be charged and you can ues them
 

plattman02

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I am simply connecting each wire of the pump with each wire of the 12v dc plug that I have to test the pump.

Now I'm confused whether or not you're saying the problem with my pump is the fact that I haven't jumped my cables yet, or its the air that is going through the pump...??

I do have one of those connectors btw that I will put in.
 

rubix_1011

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I am simply connecting each wire of the pump with each wire of the 12v dc plug that I have to test the pump.

Is this a standalone power supply, or what is this? Can you provide details? I have a fear you are using some random 12v power adapter and sticking wires into the molex adapter of your pump. You'd want to leave the pump plugged into the molex or appropriate adapter for the pump and jumper your ATX plug as described in the sticky and below.

The following is an excerpt from the watercooling sticky, with the recent addition of the image file:

Once tubing is routed, make sure all fittings and clamps are tight. Begin filling your reservoir with water and cycle the pump via power. Most people unplug the ATX plug from their board (highly recommended) and jumper any green to black wire with a paperclip. You can also buy some specialized power supplies that provide minimal power to a single molex, these also work great. Regardless, you don't want any power going to anything other than your pump, if possible. Your fans might spin up, but that's fine. Cycle power on until the pump sucks the water almost all the way down, power off. Refill the res, repeat as necessary.

Make sure to note the location of the ATX tab in relation to each wire. Jumper the green wire (ATX tab up, 4th from the left) with any black wire. Personally, I jumper the adjacent black wire (ATX tab up, 3rd from the left) since it's closest, but green to any black will work:
ATX_UPS-start.png


Once you have the loop filled, you'll want to let it run in the above manner for several hours, checking every 15 minutes or so for the first hour. Overnight running would be good once you are sure there are no immediate leaks. Keep paper towels handy and around fitting areas...check for dampness. If none and you've leak tested for at least a few hours, you are likely good to go.

 
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