Cory23 :
Do you have any specific watercooling parts that you like more than others
if you are shore
I like swiftech, there are a solid company for the most part (not there reservoirs). the order of the parts in the loop, can make a little difference, this is just a opinion but I like to give myself a little room to move or remove parts from the system, without having to remove everything. I achieve this by making the length of my tubing between 12 in. and 24 in. in length depending on how close the parts are to each, after being mounted. here are the issues that I have run into(long time water cooling enthusiast myself) don't worry about cerotic corrosion "water wetter" prevents it. the tubing will get hard after a couple of years (I switched to chimerical resistant tubing eventually, I did not like the price.) but it's been six years no problems, not even starting to get hard. as well get a flow meter, one with a window and propeller. this will let you know when the pump starts to go. they will usually slow down, before they stop complete( depending on the manufacture 3 to 5 years) the pump you plan to have I have as well, I like swiftech. the first one I ever owned only lasted 3 years, so I bought from a different company, got 2 years out of it. went back to swiftech, now I get a solid 5 years out of their products, when it comes to pumps. well ok let's start with the basics then first I would decide on a tubing size I like to use 3/8 inch inner dimension or (ID) with 1/2 inch outer dimension or (OD) keep in mind that not all blocks will go this large (EX : ran cooling blocks some HHD blocks and some chip set blocks these are can be designed for 1/4 inch (ID) tubing)but you are not currently interested in these kind of blocks you wont to cool the GPU. next pick out a pump and a radiator, I like compression fittings but they are expensive. I have used barbs before without incident but you half to put more forethought into how you will inshore that they will not leak. I like silicone for this per puss. you will also need the block for the GPU. I build a fill and drain contraption the cheap way but you can certainly build one the same way with higher quality parts the same basic design applies. here is how I do a fill system for my builds.
http://www.fastfittings.com/plastic-push-in-fittings I use two T's and three shut off valves, you can usually find these at a hardware store. configured in this order T than shout off valve than the second T this should make a straight shot from one end to the other, now where the T's branch off is where the other two shout off valves go. now I usually would attach this right after the pump but any where will work. now you have the ability to force the system to flow throw a make shift reservoir. a 2 liter container or half gallon container works well for this purpose. attach hoses about two feet long to the ends of the two shout off valves, and put both of them into the container. you will need to fill the container with distilled water or whatever you use as a liquid coolant. ok so you know the direction of the flow, that is that, one of the hoses is putting water into the container. while the other one would be pulling water out of the container, pull the draw line out of the container. the easiest way I have found to prime a system is to either use a large syringe( not the type with a needle)but used for filling medical nutrition bags, for line feeders, or a squeeze bottle with a end that is large enough to be pushed into the end of the hose to make a tight fit. then start filling your system as much as possible by hand. then when you don't think that you can get any more air out of the system by hand. fill the intake hose as much as possible and shove it back into the container and turn your pump on. it may take a little time to get all of the air out of the system but the pump should be able to handle it from here. once all of the air is out of the system simply turn the intake and outlet valves off and the center valve to the on position remove the fill hoses from the shout off valves and you are done. or more expensive design of this would be to use these types of parts
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14595/ex-tub-1034/Bitspower_G14_Mini_Valve_-_Black_Sparkle_BP-MVV-BK.html?tl=g30c101s460&id=msPU6G4Y&mv_pc=1557 http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15161/ex-tub-1154/Alphacool_G14_High_Flow_Y_Connector_45_-_Chrome.html?tl=g30c101s744&id=msPU6G4Y&mv_pc=2047
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13555/ex-tub-953/Bitspower_G14_Female_to_Female_Extender_-_30mm_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C74.html?tl=g30c101s744&id=msPU6G4Y&mv_pc=2081 http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10033/ex-tub-601/Bitspower_Ultimate_G_14_Thread_38_ID_x_12_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBCPF-CC2.html?tl=g30c409s1032&id=msPU6G4Y&mv_pc=2306 so you can see that there are cheap and expensive way of doing things I have built both and they work fine. its more about what you won't. so after you have made some chooses about what you would like to have as far as basic design. we can work on how to get those parts to work with each other. I like chemical resistant tubing for lots of reasons but I do not like the price.
i know its a lot but it really is not that hard trust me
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