How is my water cooling setup?

G

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I am spending some money on a water cooling setup, and want to get some opinions. I will be cooling an i5 2500k, no graphics card yet but that's a project for another day. Case is Antec Df-85 btw.

- XSPC RX 240 Rad
- Swiftech Apogee HD white
- XSPC Dual bay res
- mcp655b pump
- 3/8 red primochill tubing
- 2 x enermax T.b. silence
- full set of black cable extensions

missing anything? any suggestions? Thanks :lol:
 

toolmaker_03

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Mar 26, 2012
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I am spending some money on a water cooling setup, and want to get some opinions. I will be cooling an i5 2500k, no graphics card yet but that's a project for another day. Case is Antec Df-85 btw.

- XSPC RX 240 Rad
- Swiftech Apogee HD white
- XSPC Dual bay res
- mcp655b pump
- 3/8 red primochill tubing
- 2 x enermax T.b. silence
- full set of black cable extensions

missing anything? any suggestions? Thanks :lol:

that is a nice setup, good choice in parts, what type of fittings will you be using for this setup bard, compression, or push in connectors maybe a combination of all three in order to attach all of them to each other with the tubing?

what kind of fill/flush system will you be implementing in order to prime the system for filling?
 
G

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Oh of course, I was planning on adding silver compression fittings, a liter of red ekoolant, and i heard that silver was naturally one of the best antimicrobial substances, so would a kill coil still be needed?
 
G

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I am not sure about the fill/flush system. Was planning on just using a funnel into the res, and pumping it through. But not sure about how I will flush it :/
 

toolmaker_03

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Mar 26, 2012
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Oh of course, I was planning on adding silver compression fittings, a liter of red ekoolant, and i heard that silver was naturally one of the best antimicrobial substances, so would a kill coil still be needed?

ok, this might sound weird but I use a substance called water wetter to stabilize all my water systems and this is why you need to prevent cerotic corrosion I had it occur in my 1987 pony, (car ) after having the head milled down because of it. keep in mind that at that time is was taking chem. 2 so it played into the class study as well. but any way water wetter will bond with microscopic platelets of metal, giving them a neutral charge so that positively charged partials do not build up in the system, causing a molecular change in the mixture antifreeze or water. changing it into a acid, this process can occur faster in a water system because there are no inhibiters unlike antifreeze. but it would still take more than 6 months on a new system for this to become a issue. there are a few conditions that must be meet, 1) there has to be more than 1 type of metal in the loop, and nickel or iron in this case, are the worst case scenario for how fast this process can occur. not to mention that with this in your system it would take at least a year for stuff to start growing in the system. I use 3X what the bottle tales me to but that is because I am using it for a different purpose than it was designed for. i hope this helps.
 
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Thank you for the chemistry lesson :kaola: It helped a lot.
 

noob2222

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Nov 19, 2007
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I am not sure about the fill/flush system. Was planning on just using a funnel into the res, and pumping it through. But not sure about how I will flush it :/
Tee line at the lowest point in your loop, followed by this makes a great drain system.

http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0253395

have some extra line so you can pull it out away from the case makes it easy to drain the system.

If you are using ek coolant, it should already be anti-microbial so kill-coil isn't necessary.