Lutfi's Vintage Case Mod , Build Log

[Lutfij]

Hey all you modders and watercoolers!

from these recent string of threads sprung up by toolmaker and modo...(including in thread discussions by Rubix, ryan, muffin)and a couple of other people who I can't remember, I took a look at my case thas been lying around my store room for the past 3 years without a use for it...

here's the lowdown!
2004-2006 modded an el-cheapo Chinese case to this -

2006/7-2008, overhauled to new specs, and I also modded it again...

sorry I don't have anymore pics of it, didn't think it was necessary (and I wasn't familiar with Tom's in 2006 but i was with hardware)

heres a couple of shots of it now [:lutfij:1] ...don't worry I can manage cables in it just fine.

I replaced the plastic feet with stainless steel knobs and the FP - acrylic was held by SS knobs as well but of smaller dia. I purposely designed the case to have the FP acrylic act as a skirt and hide the feet from being seen instead be like a monolithic Face-plate... actually face plastic and if you look a lil closely, you'll see most of my wires running under the case...like my KB and mouse/camera charger and all the other gadgets that make a desktop messy.

* specs wise - its just bare now. But i'd want to make it into a server/low power/surfing rig which'll also be under water - I know I don't need it but...I'd like to do it. NO - I don't want it to be capable of playing crysis on a 24" LED TV just the internet.

well I was thinking I'd watercool it sometime around near the end of this year but i'd like ALL your opinions on it.

** on modo's thread where recon-3d linked a phobya case review, i thought "hey, I could also get anti-vandal switches too"
I'd love some feedback, esp after I'd want to have two anti-vandal switches:

Power
Reset

thanks mates!

P.S: this is what the watercooling parts/markup looks like

since I can't remove the heat inside case via aircooling, I thought move the heat outside case with watercooling..?

*** and for all those who're thinking how this case went from 2008 - bust...well thas when I got my RE X48 and the heattrap inside this case was insane [:lutfij:2] - so I switched to the Tt Spedo I have now.

OR
start from scratch with a new case?

Thanks for taking the time to read this [:lutfij:3]

Updates [:lutfij:3]
04-26-2012--->I want everybody's opinion on this "to be build log" thread title given
06-22-2012--->decided to name the project : Vintage case mod via -Jackson
06-27-2012--->thread titled Lutfi's Vintage Case Mod , Build Log

 

[cyansnow]

That case seems like it's run its course and you should consider upgrading the case, why Since it's only a internet browsing pc I don't see why you couldn't go with a decent mid tower.

Also, do you like your supreme HF waterblock? I had a HF full copper but used it about three times and got rid of it because the copper stood out in the case to much, I wanted to know if I should pick up the plexi top version?

 

[Lutfij]

That case seems like it's run its course and you should consider upgrading the case, why Since it's only a internet browsing pc I don't see why you couldn't go with a decent mid tower.

hehe, thats the whole point of me posting it here, to see what all of Tom's modders think of my initiative. But yet open to options, and I'm actually taking notes, so want everyone to pitch in and give me their opinion - just no trolling<---notice to all :lol:

Also, do you like your supreme HF waterblock? I had a HF full copper but used it about three times and got rid of it because the copper stood out in the case to much, I wanted to know if I should pick up the plexi top version?

I didn't get the HF yet...I'll be in possession of the Full Copper Raystorm (for the AMS) and for this build, I'm going themed as well, the anti-vandal switched are orange+the 5mm LED for the res will also be of orange. Copper rad - not going compression's as they will be expensive...don't wanna break my bank this build around unlike my AMS build

courtesy of martinsliquidlab.org

if plexi top, its...erm, subtle in its showing off of the copper and you can LED it with 5mm LED's. I'd keep the HF plexi vanilla sans the LED just the res/switches. Case innards will be full black - cans of matte black to do that for me, and sleeving - if I'm patient enough will be carbon fibre grey. <--if I have enough people saying that this is indeed one way of breathing life into this baron case.

 

[wolfram23]

Well, with enough work I'm sure you can make it look really sweet. Lots of paint and I'm sure some custom parts to finish the front of that case and make it look nice. It would be a cool build log I think.

 

[Lutfij]

thanks - vote 1 to doing it. I will be fabricating the front panel in two layers. The modders mesh on the front of case and with the SS knobs have a 10mm Acrylic face(frosty or clear) on which I'll have the anti vandal switches (kinda like the pic but minus the horrible red test-tube switch like thing-a-majiggy)- i'll order(IF this build is worth pursuing).

 

[jrwizbang]

I think that it is a cool idea to fix up an old case. Kinda like taking an old junker car and fixing it up to your liking, instead of restoring it to original. Also, what site is that, that you are getting your WC'ing parts from?

 

[Lutfij]

thas frozencpu.com i usually mix/match parts from other sites as i did with my AMS build, but this time i'd want to snag as much parts from one site quickly...should this be the route.

Junker - :lol: - i aint going to race against an Evo just get it in shape to get me to the grocers

 

[rubix_1011]

I used to own an Evo...most enjoyable car I've ever driven outside a 911 Turbo (that wasn't mine).

Not quite the 600hp, 18ft drag boat we had when I was a kid...508ci Chevy.

Sorry, back on task.

 

[jrwizbang]

Ahh okay I thought it was frozencpu but wasn't sure. Yeah all you have to do is be able to get to work and back, and the occasional drive downtown to flash your handy work. Pretty good analogy I think, hehe. I like the idea a lot though. Actually thinking of using an old case that I have from my first desktop to make into a radbox for some WC'ing project sometime this summer when I have some money/job

 

[Lutfij]

@ rubix - nah mate...a lil(or alot of) fun won't kill this thread, its just to help me gauge the case' value in others eyes i value everyone's opinion though. When I lived in the Middle East, my dad had a Peugeot...really fun car, vintage but fun then came the Chevy Caprice Classic - man they aren't called gas guzzlers for nothing! drank like a camel but went fast as a rat on Tabasco sauce - with 7 people on its back

Not quite the 600hp, 18ft drag boat we had when I was a kid...508ci Chevy.

reminds me of the overkill conversation we had nearly a year ago... :lol: with homeboy on that fancontroller thread.

@ jrwizbang - we need modo promoted to modder master moda (modo+yoda) hahaha and then you can be his apprentice/padawan...oh the wonderful stuff bursting in my mind

and it just hit me, will need stand off to mount rad ontop of case roof - route tubing through the back - drilling holes to accommodate WC'ing grommets.

@ wolfram - I'll take suggestions to what sorta stuff I can add inside the case as well - for the HDD's. Though I can mount SSD on the back of mobo tray - nearly 1" of space between tray and panel.

 

[jrwizbang]

@ jrwizbang - we need modo promoted to modder master moda (modo+yoda) hahaha and then you can be his apprentice/padawan...oh the wonderful stuff bursting in my mind

Best idea that I've heard in a while

 

[Lutfij]

just had another idea, will route tubing through the 80mm fan cutout up top. will be a tight fit but possible.
like so:

@ jrwiz - stick around these here forums, we could use another set of eyes and a brain

be sure to check out my AMS build log as well, could use some feedback there too.

i couldn't help but post this here

 

[C12Friedman]

That looks like it'll be a great project, I'm kinda envious since you seem to have a "head start" with that case (I'm doing an Inwin A500 - tricky). I like the idea of water just because...
Have you considered a semi-flush top mount for the rad? It looks to be a rather fat rad, lots of possibilities. FrozenCPU has templates
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c95/s1406/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-PC_Water_Cooling_Radiators-Radiator_Templates-Page1.html

Assumption - bottom fan hole in back is 80mm

 

[jrwizbang]

I think it'd be cool if you got some thin sheet aluminum and bent it around the rad in an angled fashion. I'll try to make a drawing of it in MS paint or something from the front so you can see what I mean. So just let the black box on top of the rectangle be the radbox, and the large rectangle the case. The red will represent the material/aluminum that you would use to cover. It could act sort of like a wind tunnel of sorts.

Pretty crappy but I hope that you get the idea.

 

[jrwizbang]

Also if you could check this out an share it and give opinions and such. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/332954-28-case-scratch-ideas

 

[Lutfij]

@ C12friedman - don't sweat it mate, I know you'll be done with your build long before I've started assembling but that A500 is a really vintage and by definition a real challenge , Kudos for picking up the idea [:lutfij:3]

* how "semi" is this semi-flush idea thas hiding in your brain stems ?

@ jrwiz - lovely idea, has given me some architectural ideas...will try to sum up my thoughts and blast them on your thread. Double kudo's for having the necessary materials

** as an architect, I tell myself i can't draw - so I just sketch for the sake of illustration, not to convince others but to understand if what I'm seeing is possible. Although crude, I can see what you mean - koolance have the rad shroud/kit thingy

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13913/ex-wat-179/Koolance_Exos-2_V2_External_Water_Cooling_Kit_-_Black_EX2-755_-_no_nozzles_.html?tl=g30c321s1471
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13919/ex-wat-180/Koolance_KIT-EHX1320CUV_4-Fan_Radiator_and_FansShroud_-_Black_No_Fittings_Copper_Version.html?tl=g30c321s1471

there are some aspects of a build that I hide, while some I expose - the rig being watercooled is the part I want to expose not conceal. A really good idea non-the-less!

 

[wolfram23]

Hiding HDDs is a good idea! That's what I had to do to fit a rad inside my 902. HDDs on the side of the normal HDD cage area, and then I made a couple holes in the bottom and put the SSDs down there.

Also, with that case, I think it would be really cool to actually cut out most of the front. Basically you could probably fit a 3x120 rad up front there, maybe even bigger like a 3x140. Just chop away enough so that you can screw directly through the front panel and into the rad holes. Then use fans in pull. You might even have room to use a shroud for better efficiency. Then you can probably fit a slim DVD drive on top or underneath. Or hell even slot it in the side so the actual drive is inside the rear panel!

 

[Lutfij]

on my quest for looking at sleeving jobs/inspiration - found this

@ wolfram - will note the ideas. Infact you've given me an idea, will see if its possible in the culmination of the process thanks

 

[toolmaker_03]

I don't know, sleeve the individual wires one by one, looks cool but even doing it yourself, ( EX: ever braded a friendship leg anklet all those knots looks nice but takes forever ) using colored wire is faster and kind of looks the same. just my opinion but thought I would throw it out there. but the case looks nice why not a internet PC, you won't be clocking it so cooling it will be cheaper, and less hardware. I believe that case is big enough for the task,. and as far as how nice it looks, that all about the details and how far are you willing to go to work out all the little things, to make it look nice. so what is the color theme that you're looking for, you know you can hand paint a mother board slots and plugs, without harming the board. this sounds like a cool idea, keep us posted on the progress on your thoughts, this is a lot of fun.

 

[Lutfij]

Assumption - bottom fan hole in back is 80mm

yay be right with the assumption matey!

@ toolmaker - the theme I'd want to work with is subtle orange/copper rest being matte/flat black and grey or carbon fibre/titanium grey,copper, red. In all honesty I want to see if I can catch up to some MDPC sleeving.
So to sum it up:
switches will be Orange+Amber for Power+HDD lights.
Res will have orange LED.
would want sleeving like that shown in psychosleeve's site

courtesy of Psychosleeve

GUIDE - MDPC-X SLeeving of individual Cables! by Kamaster on [H]ard forums.

 

[Lutfij]

how many cans of spray paint do you guys think I'll need for a full finished look?

 

[toolmaker_03]

i would think two cans of primer, and two cans of high gloss to be safe, if your only painting in one color. but if 3 colors you'll need at least 1 can of each for the top cote.

 

[Lutfij]

the mobo tray has primer on it already. So I'll be spraying on the black on the whole case as is...unless there is a secret to spray painting?

but if 3 colors you'll need at least 1 can of each for the top cote.

the cabling will be of other colors, the case color will be matte black/flat black.

OH, I also neglected to mention, that drive cage at the bottom was stolen from an IBM rig I had in 2000.

 

[4Ryan6]

how many cans of spray paint dya you guys think I'll need for a full finished look?

Rustoleum has a new spray paint that is paint and primer in one, also works for just about any surface material, you should check into it, it would save you some time, 2 cans should do it but if all the inside will be done, maybe 3 to be on the safe side.

It's better to have more than you need on hand because there's nothing worse than running short at the end of a paint job that's the worse possible time.

Regarding your case, if the case material is substantial you can do some serious modding and still have a strong case, but your modding is seriously limited if the case just isn't sturdy enough to take it, you'll totally have to make that call yourself.

My 2 cents

 

[rubix_1011]

With spray cans, you are better off long-term by very thoroughly prepping the surface, at least 2 coats of primer, and at least 3-4 coats of color. I try to leave at least 45 minutes between coats if I can, and at least 1 overnight between primer and color. When it comes to rattle cans, thinner, multiple coats are usually better than heavier coats.