APPROXIMATE PURCHASE DATE: 2 Days BUDGET RANGE: 1200 (Before Rebates)
SYSTEM USAGE FROM MOST TO LEAST IMPORTANT: Gaming, Internet, Movies
PARTS NOT REQUIRED: OS, keyboard, mouse, speakers
PREFERRED WEBSITE(S) FOR PARTS: newegg.com COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: United States of America
PARTS PREFERENCES: Prefer Intel for processor
OVERCLOCKING: No SLI OR CROSSFIRE: Maybe
MONITOR RESOLUTION: 1920x1080 or 1920x1200)
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: I'd like it to be fairly quiet. Don't care about having a flashy case, but it must look "custom", if you know what I mean. I'm hoping to buy this on November 24th but I'm hoping you guys can help me out a little. This is my FIRST experience with building a computer, so I'm not exactly confident that these parts are all compatible. That's the main thing I would like help with, just whether or not when I press "on" that the machine actually does what I bought it to do. Please, also, let me know if there are any additional components I need to purchase (cables, etc...)
Also, if you think there's something better out there that is either cheaper/not much more expensive, please advise.
I think you have made some great choices on components to stay within your budget. This i5-750 is a great performer, and if you live near a Microcenter you can pick one up for $150.
I would spend $10 more and get a Caviar Black or Samsung F3 drive. The performance gains with these drives is worth the extra $10 bucks.
Although the video card you choose is an older generation design, it is a top performer at a discount price and is a bargain if you realize these limitations.
There are some good, cheaper 650W power supply units out there, like the Antec EA650 ($80 - $30 rebate = $50 at Newegg). However, unless your budget is severely constrained I would spend the extra money on the Corsair 650TX power supply unit that you chose.
The Gigabyte motherboard and RAM are also good choices.
I agree with all of the above. The i5 will cost you a lot more, has no upgrade path, but will provide better performance.
I would not get an Antec PSU. With the exception of a few lines, they are going to be a lower quality part. It's not worth the savings to skimp on the part that makes everything go. Stick with the Corsair.
The i5 build does not cost "a lot more". I like your original build. You mentioned you wanted to leave the option of Crossfire open, so I would recommend switching out the motherboard for one that runs the second slot at 8x in Crossfire. You do NOT want to run Crossfire on the UD3R since it runs its second slot at 4x.
@shortstuff: I consider $50 for not much a lot, especially once you factor in the additional costs for decent motherboards (usually a good AM3 mobo is around $120, LGA 1156's are typical $150). Notice I didn't suggest he switch, just pointing out there's a cost difference, an upgrade difference and a performance differance. As far as Antec PSU, you can't argue that Corsair have a better track record. So why risk it?
@robslash: I didn't catch the x4 PCIe slot, and agree with shortstuff about getting a different one. However, if you do go with the combo zipzoomflyhigh mentioned, and get the 5850, you probably won't need to upgrade/Crossfire any time soon. In either case, I would look at getting a 5xxx to stay current longer.
Thanks for all of your help guys! This is what I have put together now. How does everything look? All compatible? I changed out the RAM. Good or bad thing? Should I go back to the RAM I chose initially?
In terms of gaming performance, your first priority according to your original post, your original build will knock the socks off this latest build. But you saved a little money by sacrificing RAM performance (CAS7 versus CAS9) and dropping one of best PSUs available (Corsair 650TX) today. Am I missing something?
Yeah, that RAM isn't better. You should go back to the other RAM for only $10 more, just not a combo. I also think the Corsair is a better choice for a PSU.
The price dropped because you save $85 on the mobo, CPU and RAM, and $15 on the PSU.
Just noticed it, but do you really need a Blu-Ray reader right off the bat? If you wait, you could probably add that later for half the cost. Just get a nice DVD burner for $30, and then pump all of that savings into a Radeon HD 5850 (the best card on the market), as suggested earlier.
@zipzoomflyhigh: Just because something's specs are better doesn't mean it actually is better. Also, you may have had good experiences, but Corsair are the highest quaility around. I don't think there's a real argument that the Corsair isn't one of the best PSUs available. Also, being a modular PSU doesn't matter as much in a bottom mounted case. The extra cords are already out the way.
In regards to the Blu Ray. You don't have to get rid of it. I'm just saying you'd be able to upgrade a much more important part of a gaming machine if you didn't get it...
The 95W version is a cooler running chip. I guess it's up to the OP to decide if a chip that runs at a lower voltage and temp is worth the extra $20. It is IMO. The latest 95W 945 chips are even better. They're a new stepping that use even less voltage.