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Adding liquid cooling to my rig (newb)

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May 4, 2012 11:39:13 PM

I'm upgrading from a GTX 470 to a Radeon HD 6950 and I would like to liquid cool the GPU and eventually the CPU. (once I've saved up some extra cash, etc).

I've got a HAF 932 currently case so I've got plenty of room and pre-mounted brackets for a radiator on the inside of the case.

I know my HAF 932 can support liquid cooling and I would like to make the transition from 100% fan cooled to liquid.

I've tried Googleing for some tutorials, but really can't find much on the exact list of parts I will need.

I am 100% new to the idea of liquid cooling, so please keep that in mind.

I'd prefer to not spend more than 250$ if possible 300$ max. Again, at this time I'd really just like to use liquid cooling for my GPU.

Thanks!

*edit* I've also read that you can use non-conductive liquids for cooling systems as well. Since I'm very new to the idea of liquid cooling I would love to avoid destroying anything in my 2000$ build lol.
a b K Overclocking
May 5, 2012 12:52:00 AM

Take a look at the sticky at the top of the WC forum. You'll get a nice breakdown of the loop as a well as many MANY links to other guides.

All fluids used in liquid cooling are non-conductive for a little while, but metal from the waterblocks will naturally dissociate in water and the coolant will therefore become conductive. As long as you leak test appropriately, there won't be any issues.

At $250-300, you're looking at a universal GPU block (vs. a full cover - it should be covered in the sticky), and I believe some companies make kits for the GPU (rather than the CPU, which is more common). With a good kit, you might be able to afford to cool the CPU and GPU.
May 5, 2012 2:13:09 AM

Sounds good. Thanks i'll take a look @ the sticky.

Man, there is so much information! Water-cooling seems even more daunting than when I first started doing research for my first PC build.

All this talk about blocks, etc. I feel like the word 'kit' should just include everything I need but I really can't find much on Newegg in terms of kits for JUST setting up a system to cool a Radeon HD 6950 2g card >>
Related resources
May 5, 2012 2:52:55 AM

Why is it so hard to find kits for a HAF 932!

*edit* looks like my case can support a 120mmx3 radiator set up. So I guess that's a start!
a b K Overclocking
May 5, 2012 5:18:08 AM

Take a look at FrozenCPU or Sidewinder Computers. Those are some of the more common sites that cater more to the watercooling crowd. Newegg only has the occasional part here and there.
a c 149 K Overclocking
May 5, 2012 5:35:54 AM

XSPC Raystorm EX360 Kit +GPU Block!
May 5, 2012 3:46:01 PM

I found some youtube videos of people running set ups on their 932's.

What are your guys thoughts on these products?

Build 1:

Waterblock: EK supreme HF block - Nickel Acetal
Pump: Danger Den DP1200 800L/hr (211Gal/hr)
Reservoir: XSPC 5.25" drive bay reservoir
Radiator: XSPC RX360 Radiator
Fittings: Bitspower compression fittings (2 45 degree 1 90 degree)
Fluid: Distilled Water (cheaper and doesn't leave residue)
Tubing: Primochill 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD UV red tubing

build 2:

XSPC RX360
swiftech mcp350 with a xspc reservoir top
ek supreme HF block but tbh the old supreme LTX (slightly less flow/gpm) was much cheaper and performed damn near the same even with an original i7 (lots of heat)
primoFlex pro LRT tubing
danger den fatboy fittings
all a 1/2 ID setup


silver killcoil
distilled water
<--- these are the norm in all liquid-cooling set-ups, correct?

Also... thoughts / comments on this?

Quote:
Im using an HAF 932. You can fit a deep 360 rad on top (fesser, xspc rx) however the airflow will be from the inside of the case which will be warmer than drawing in external air through it. Its kind of a catch22, topmount will be cooled by warmer air coming from inside case, bottom mount cooled by cool air from outside case but venting inside case across components you are cooling.


Quote:
Few rules: For the best temps you want the water to hit your cpu block directly from the radiator. it will be the coolest then. the pump adds a slight amount of heat.

Starting with the reservoir: RES -> PUMP -> RAD -> BLOCK -> RES


*edit* I've also read some comments saying that Driver Bay Reservoir's are garbage/shitty? Though the HAF 932 has a port directly above the top bay for filling which seems like a huge quality of life factor.
a b K Overclocking
May 5, 2012 5:26:33 PM

Quote:
Build 1:

Waterblock: EK supreme HF block - Nickel Acetal
Pump: Danger Den DP1200 800L/hr (211Gal/hr)
Reservoir: XSPC 5.25" drive bay reservoir
Radiator: XSPC RX360 Radiator
Fittings: Bitspower compression fittings (2 45 degree 1 90 degree)
Fluid: Distilled Water (cheaper and doesn't leave residue)
Tubing: Primochill 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD UV red tubing

build 2:

XSPC RX360
swiftech mcp350 with a xspc reservoir top
ek supreme HF block but tbh the old supreme LTX (slightly less flow/gpm) was much cheaper and performed damn near the same even with an original i7 (lots of heat)
primoFlex pro LRT tubing
danger den fatboy fittings
all a 1/2 ID setup


Since you're using the same rads and nearly equivalent blocks, the loops will perform similarly. Make sure the EK Nickel blocks are the second generation; there were corrosion issues with the later 1st gen blocks. You could support the CPU in the loop as well if you used higher speed fans.

Quote:
silver killcoil
distilled water
<--- these are the norm in all liquid-cooling set-ups, correct?

You can go distilled + killcoil or distilled + additive (PT Nuke - what I'm using). It really doesn't matter at all; a kill coil arguably is more convenient since you just put it in the reservoir or something and never remove it. I have to add PT Nuke every time I refill.

Quote:
Im using an HAF 932. You can fit a deep 360 rad on top (fesser, xspc rx) however the airflow will be from the inside of the case which will be warmer than drawing in external air through it. Its kind of a catch22, topmount will be cooled by warmer air coming from inside case, bottom mount cooled by cool air from outside case but venting inside case across components you are cooling.

Doesn't matter much with a good airflow setup, especially if your fans are moving faster. The sheer amount of air moving through will make up for the temp difference.

Quote:
Few rules: For the best temps you want the water to hit your cpu block directly from the radiator. it will be the coolest then. the pump adds a slight amount of heat.

Starting with the reservoir: RES -> PUMP -> RAD -> BLOCK -> RES

Doesn't make much of a difference - the temp differences at steady state will be within 1-2C at all times in any loop order. Set it up whichever way is most efficient and easier to tube (which may be this way since your rad is at the top and will naturally feed to the block).

Quote:
*edit* I've also read some comments saying that Driver Bay Reservoir's are garbage/shitty? Though the HAF 932 has a port directly above the top bay for filling which seems like a huge quality of life factor.

Generally the pumps included in the kits are the target for this hatred. The XSPC X2O 750 (in the Rasa kits) isn't a fantastic pump but gets the job done ok. Most drive bay reservoirs are fine though.

I would recommend NOT getting the Primochill Myriad. I currently use it and was a complete pain to install and set up properly. There are no instructions included, and it's set up so that air at the top sometimes feeds into the pump or the loop. The XSPC bayres actually has a nice design, aside from being made from acrylic and plastic.
May 5, 2012 5:52:16 PM

Thanks very much for the fantastic reply. Everyone who's replied here or over at Blizzhackers has been a huge help and I can't wait to really start narrowing down my buy list!
!