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Gaming build, Core i5, $1000

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November 30, 2009 1:01:25 AM

Hello everyone, first time builder here and i could use some help from more experienced people. :hello: 

See below for updated list of parts


APPROXIMATE PURCHASE DATE: 2-3 weeks, Christmas time build BUDGET RANGE: $1000 or close to it after rebates

SYSTEM USAGE FROM MOST TO LEAST IMPORTANT: Gaming and video encoding is its main usage

PARTS NOT REQUIRED: UPDATED TO WHATS BEEN PURCHASED
I have a:
mouse *Own from Before*
keyboard *Own from Before*
monitor(Samsung SyncMaster™ 245BW-glossy black (24" widescreen monitor)) *Own from Before*
Powersupply(Rosewill BRONZE series RBR1000-M 1000W Continuous@40°C, 80Plus Bronze Certified,Modular Cable Design,ATX12V v2.3/ EPS12V,SLI Ready,CrossFire Ready,Active PFC"Compatible with Core i7, i5" Power Supply) $99.99
Case: (COOLER MASTER Storm Scout SGC-2000-KKN1-GP Black Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case) $49.99
HDD: (SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive) $84.99
MOBO: (GIGABYTE GA-P55-UD4P LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel Motherboard) $169.99
RAM: (G.SKILL ECO Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL7D-4GBECO) $97.99
Optical: (Sony Optiarc 24X DVD/CD Rewritable Drive Black SATA Model AD-7240S-0B) $31.99
Thermal Paste: (Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound) $7.99
Win 7 ($32 to get Win 7 home premium student discounted from microsoft store(must call them) then $15 for Win 7 Ultimate upgrade from my university)
GPU: (SAPPHIRE 100283L Radeon HD 5770 (Juniper XT) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card) $179.99
CPU: (Intel i5 750 from Micro Center for $149)
CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7 compatible RR-B10-212P-G1 120mm "heatpipe direct contact" Long life sleeve CPU Cooler $29.98


TOTAL TO BUY: 1019.65

Can yall see any cables or spare parts i will need with this setup so i can order them early?


PREFERRED WEBSITE(S) FOR PARTS: Newegg.com

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: USA

PARTS PREFERENCES: I would like to use a Intel Core i5 on either an ASUS or Gigabyte mobo,DDR3 ram, blu-ray with write ability, DvD with re-write ability if blu-ray cant do re-wrights on DvD, Windows 7 64bit(I need the cheapest one since i can buy Windows 7 Ultimate Upgrade for $15 through my university, although i can use XP or vista as the upgrade platform, so which ever is the cheapest)(or if getting a normal windows 7 as a base is better then ill do that), and a Radeon card. The rest im not sure what i need so please feel free to suggest away(ex. Heatsinks, thermal paste, extra fans, ect...)

OVERCLOCKING: Yes

SLI OR CROSSFIRE: Maybe in the future

MONITOR RESOLUTION: 1920x1200

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: I am a student at a Big 12 university so if there are any deals for software that require student emailes and such please list them if you know since i can prolly use them.


Thanks a lot for any help you guys can provide.

More about : gaming build core 1000

November 30, 2009 1:06:20 AM

Well, You are starting with some pretty junk parts, might as well just scrap them.
The 7200.11 is horrible and has firmware issues, I'm surprised yours works. Rosewill does not make quality PSUs.
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November 30, 2009 1:08:47 AM

Ok i scrapped the Harddrive. What would yall recommend

The PSU has good ratings, how are their PSU's bad?

Thanks so far
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Related resources
November 30, 2009 8:46:50 PM

Anyone have any suggestions please?

thanks
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November 30, 2009 9:01:03 PM

You'd have to check sites that test them. If it is 'bad', that probably means means it cannot output to its specifications, which if you stay well below, you should be fine.
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November 30, 2009 9:18:52 PM

Ok, I should have mentioned this stuff above. The Seagate 7200.11 had some very bad problems with firmware, if you have used it and its fine, then re use it.
http://www.theinquirer.net/inquirer/news/1050374/seagat...

The Rosewill psu....PSU is the single most important part of a computer. A low quality psu can spike and permanently damage your system along with other things. Rosewill has low quality written all over it, I am very surprized that PSU has been certified. That means it wont explode under load but does not mean its good. Newegg reviews are not to best to say the least, any joe schmo can buy that psu and say its great, doesn't mean it is. The only widely accepted PSU that are known as good are Antec, Corsair, PC P & C, Seasonic, and some OCZs. I did a google for reviews on that psu there were ZERO, mainly because rosewill psus have failed every other review. I typed in Corsair 1000w review and all of the first five links were for reputable website reviews. Why are all these psus not the same? Low quality junk used. There IS a reason why the Antec 1k watt is $169 and the Rosewill is $99. If you use that psu, you need to stay well under the 1000w it says it can put out.

As per the Win 7, You can call the MS Store and tell them you want Win 7 Full version with student discount and you can get it shipped to you for $37 total. Check out win741.com but you have to call the MS store to get full version.
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November 30, 2009 9:19:36 PM

Any 80plus bronze PSU should be fine. I wouldnt buy it just because of Rosewills bad reputation with prior PSUs, but passing 80plus certification guarantees a level of consistency in the power supply. That Rosewill PSU is a recently released newegg only house brand and says its made with japanese capacitors. I couldnt find any professional reviews, though.

As far as cases go. The Antec 300 illusion, 900, 902 and 1200 are probably the best airflow cases available with just the stock fans. The Coolermaster HAF 932 and 922 both very good well also. Other models like the Antec 300 black and Coolermaster CM 690 need a couple fans added to match up. Those are really the only gaming cases I consider due to their strong price/performance. For a more mobile gaming rig the coolermaster Storm scout and Antec 600 have handles for safer transporting.
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November 30, 2009 9:28:00 PM

With a budget of only 1000$, I would suggest you to go with a PII X4 955 and a Asus M4A78T-E.

Get yourself a 5850 and some OCZ platinum DDR3 1600. You can crossfire later.

A Corair 750 Watts power supply will be enough for your needs, 850 Watts at max.

Get a Cooler Master Cosmos (standard) or a Silverstone R02 case.

A good sound card like an HT Omega or an AUzentech.

A Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB is one of the best hard drive on the market.
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December 1, 2009 12:52:33 AM

Wow, thanks for all the info guys.

So far i have in mind:
Video card - Something from these, any suggestions? I have only used SAPPHIRE so i do not know the others very well.
Case- One of these Antec's, which would yall recommend? I would like one that comes with all the fans it will need.


I still need an idea on:
Mobo for i5 750(This is the right Processor isn't it?) and that has PCI express 2.0 for 2 cards(for later upgrade to crossfire) from either ASUS or Gigabyte
A harddrive
DDR3 ram, any suggestions for make and performance please. Ill start with 2x2gb for now.
A good blu-ray drive with write ability and a DvD drive with re-writable capability.
The rest im not sure what i need so please feel free to suggest away(ex. Heatsinks, thermal paste, extra fans, ect...)


The sound card, although im still using stereo speakers and will for a while, so this will be for later upgrades.



Thanks so much for the help so far, everyone has been very informative.

Special note: Thanks a ton Sonic-Boom, calling the MS store for the student version so i can upgrade to Win 7 ultimate is a fantastic idea.
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December 1, 2009 1:54:56 AM

Yes, that is the i5 750.

Good dual Card Mobo:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Good (and Cheap) Ram:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

(Should be able to get Mobo and Ram in combo to save even more)

Out of the cards listed, get a 5770 or 4890. I would probably get the 5770 for DX11 and lower power consumption.

Case, that is more personal preference. The 300's are a great 'budget' case, though the non-illusion version requires front fans.
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December 1, 2009 1:56:07 AM

Hard Drive: Samsung Spinpoint F3's are great, if you can find one. After that my preference is WD Blacks, but the price of the Seagate .12's is tempting.
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December 1, 2009 3:56:43 AM

Thanks for the info EXT64

Anyone else have any opinions of a Mobo and Ram, Vid card, and HDD?

Im definetly leaning towards SAPPHIRE 100283L Radeon HD 5770 (Juniper XT) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card as my video card and the G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL7D-4GBRM as my ram

HDD im leanign towards
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive but it seems to go out of stock quickly, anyone know of a comparable drive?

Also this CPU cooler seems to be getting fantastic reviews, what do yall think of it? Its also has a combo deal with the i5 750
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7 compatible RR-B10-212P-G1 120mm "heatpipe direct contact" Long life sleeve CPU Cooler


I have picked out and bought a case, what do yall think? $49.99 after rebate
COOLER MASTER Storm Scout SGC-2000-KKN1-GP Black Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
It has fantastic reviews all over the place, seemed like a win/win for me.


Thanks
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December 1, 2009 8:48:14 AM

Thanks for the info, but they only offer in store pickup(gotta spend a decent amount to drive there) and its out of stock for my city.
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December 1, 2009 10:11:50 AM

Looks great. I saw that case too, for that price it is amazing. I haven't used my Hyper 212 yet, though I did take it out of the box and look at it. Seems to be very nice and doesn't even look very difficult to install (the #1 complaint on newegg) but I better not speak too soon. That RAM is an excellent value as well.
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December 1, 2009 11:54:56 AM

I am planning to build an i5 750 based PC with Gigabyte or Asus MOBO (whichever supports USB3.0 and SATA-III) but am not interested in Vista SP1 or Windows 7 (at least till its SP1 availability). So, could i use Win XP SP3 System builder version for the same configuration?

Thanks,
~akula2
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December 1, 2009 12:53:36 PM

Yes, all the components still support Windows XP SP3. You won't get the ability to run DX10 or 11, but it should work fine otherwise.
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December 1, 2009 1:21:48 PM

Thanks for that clarification.

I never did a current generation new system build till date (only partial P-III, Intel Dual core PCs etc). Am not that confident of doing myself due to electrostatic shock or component damage by wrong installation etc. How to overcome this problem?

And, please suggest what specific model of Asus/Gigabyte should i go with to cover the upcoming USB 3.0 support etc?

Thanks again
~akula2
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December 1, 2009 1:39:05 PM

You can use a static wristband (can easily make you own) to protect against that. Though to be honest, I often just discharge my static before starting and often during (and don't move around too much inbetween) and have not had any issues yet.
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December 1, 2009 3:55:59 PM

sheath said:

Anyone else have any opinions of a Mobo and Ram, and Vid card

Im definetly leaning towards SAPPHIRE 100283L Radeon HD 5770 (Juniper XT) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card as my video card and the G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL7D-4GBRM as my ram


Also this CPU cooler seems to be getting fantastic reviews, what do yall think of it? Its also has a combo deal with the i5 750
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7 compatible RR-B10-212P-G1 120mm "heatpipe direct contact" Long life sleeve CPU Cooler


Anyone have opinions for the above? Really could use another opinion on the MOBO.

I have purchased a HDD now. How does it look? Seems to have great reviews all over the place.
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive

Also what do yall think about going to 8GB of ram, so 2x the G.SKILL set. Is there a noticeable difference between 4GB and 8GB?

Thanks
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December 1, 2009 4:01:06 PM

For gaming 4GB is all you need. Its possible to make it (insignificantly) slower by adding too much ram.

For P55 motherboards, any Gigabyte, ASUS or EVGA model is fine - choose based on how many graphics cards you want to crossfire.

Get 500GB platter HDDs like the Samsung F3 or Seagate 7200.12.

Hyper 212 is a great cooler, especially for the price.
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December 1, 2009 4:01:41 PM

Only if the application you use actually needs that much. For example, for games it will not help.
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December 1, 2009 4:02:51 PM

If you are contemplating Crossfire later on, the GA-P55-UD4P is the lowest you would want to get. If definitely no CF, then you can get a cheaper one.
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December 1, 2009 5:28:34 PM

I'm most familiar with the Gigabyte line, so I'll just go through those.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=E...

For a nice mid range system, I'd go P55-UD4P if you maight want CF/SLI later on. If that is a definite no, then go UD3 or UD2 and save some money. Several of the boards have an 'A' version, which means USB3.0 and SATA3.0. They are a little more expensive, and because of the limitations of the P55 chipset, to get full SATA3/USB3 you have to give up 8x (of 16x) of GPU bandwidth. In my opinion it isn't worth the price premium, but who knows, maybe it will be a must have in a year or so.

And yeah, that should be an excellent hard drive.
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Anonymous
December 1, 2009 6:16:25 PM

erm i suggest looking at reviews for some of your parts... an example is that the PSU is UGLY and i've had massive problems with it just failing
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December 1, 2009 7:15:02 PM

EXT64 said:
I'm most familiar with the Gigabyte line, so I'll just go through those.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=E...

For a nice mid range system, I'd go P55-UD4P if you maight want CF/SLI later on. If that is a definite no, then go UD3 or UD2 and save some money. Several of the boards have an 'A' version, which means USB3.0 and SATA3.0. They are a little more expensive, and because of the limitations of the P55 chipset, to get full SATA3/USB3 you have to give up 8x (of 16x) of GPU bandwidth. In my opinion it isn't worth the price premium, but who knows, maybe it will be a must have in a year or so.

And yeah, that should be an excellent hard drive.



Ya i would like to CF later on, So you would recommend the GIGABYTE GA-P55-UD4P LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel Motherboard? There are some ratings that suggest the BIOS is messed up from the factory and needs to be reflashed. Is that correct? Is that hard to do? Can i easily brick my MOBO is if do it wrong?



Does anyone have an ASUS recommendation? Just trying to get the best bang for my buck.


Also can someone recommend a good DvD drive with re-write ability.

Thanks
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December 1, 2009 7:27:33 PM

A little story about BIOS flashing. Recently I got the motherboard model one letter off and flashed the wrong bios. I had to pull the bios chip out (not hard if you can find a good tool, I used a small allen wrench) and mailed it to the manufacturer. They reflashed with the correct latest BIOS and mailed it back. My computer was dead for a week with mailing. I could have bought a flashed bios chip for $20ish if I wanted it faster. Kudos to DFI for rapid responses to all of my emails and reflashing the bios free, bad on them for making 4 motherboards that look the same with one letter difference in model number.

Notice the review right next to the bios flashing one about how it needs a tilt swivel for better viewing. Thats an indicator about how reliable newegg reviews are.

ASUS P7P55D PRO is the x8/x8 crossfire model. Same price as Giga.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
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December 1, 2009 8:04:24 PM

I've flashed the BIOS in my computers about 20 times and never had an issue. If you are worried about BIOS flashing, the Gigabyte is actually a good board about that as it has two physical BIOS chips, that way if updating somehow corrupts the primary, the secondary will take over.

I would recommend updating to the newest BIOS (if it does not already come with it) on any of the 1156 boards since they are still fairly new and BIOS updates may add important fixes.

There is always a chance of a defective board (or bad BIOS), but in my experience Gigabyte (and Asus, though I have not used them for a while) put out consistently reliable boards.
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December 1, 2009 8:59:48 PM

Thanks for the info, ill stay with the Gigabyte, now i just need a good DvD drive and i should be all set.

So the UDP4 can run x16/x16 if i CF later on? Im not sure i understand what the A looses if the UDP4 can only do x8/x8 also.

Also if all my other devices are usb 2.0, does that make the 3.0 speeds worthless? And thus the A board's extra cost is useless for me right? Or are there any other special features of the A boards?
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December 1, 2009 9:18:47 PM

The non- A version can do 8x/8x SLI CF. The A version can as well, however the USB3.0 and SATA 3.0 will operate in 2.0 mode (or be severely bottlenecked). If you use SATA 3.0 and USB 3.0, the PCI-E 16x slot will run at 8x (even when only one GPU is installed).
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December 1, 2009 9:25:56 PM

EXT64 said:
The non- A version can do 8x/8x SLI CF. The A version can as well, however the USB3.0 and SATA 3.0 will operate in 2.0 mode (or be severely bottlenecked). If you use SATA 3.0 and USB 3.0, the PCI-E 16x slot will run at 8x (even when only one GPU is installed).



Thanks for the clarification.

what do you guys think of this DvD drive?
Sony Optiarc Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA DVD/CD Rewritable Drive
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December 1, 2009 9:33:39 PM

So far this is what i have totaled up.
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx...

Take off $43 for a combo and a mail in. Then i spent $32 more to get Win 7 home premium student discounted from microsoft store(must call them) then $15 for Win7 Ultimate upgrade from my university. I say not bad, im hovering almost right at my $1k budget with shipping

Edit: Also shave off $50, i got my i5 750 from Micro Center for $149.
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml...

How does that look? Am i missing anything? Any suggestions to cut costs without loosing performance? Such as Ram or GFX card? Or a cheaper place to buy the parts.
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December 1, 2009 11:34:15 PM

Yeah, I got my 750 from there too. Great deal.

Did that ram's sale end? if it did, you might want to get:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Unless you OC the CPU, you won't need more that DDR3 1333MHz. The ram I linked to can do that and CL7 (which is about the best) all at the stock 1.5V! It should also have a combo with the Gigabyte board.
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December 1, 2009 11:40:38 PM

There are not enough PCIE channels for a socket 1156/p55 motherboard to do x16/x16 crossfire so no i5 system can do it. The testing showed you lost less than 5% with x8/x8 over x16/x16 so its not that big of a deal.

Sony Optiarc is a fine DVD burner.

Your system looks good if the PSU works.
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December 2, 2009 12:16:30 AM

Well, it is possible that the two ram chips are identical but with different end settings. I'll try to break down the differences below.

F3-12800CL7D-4GBRM

1600MHz: i5 750 can only do 1333MHz at stock clocks. no big deal though, you can just clock this at 1333 and set to 7-7-7-21 and then test to see which voltage gives stable operation

1.65V or less: good, as it is a must for i5/i7

CL7: good, as I would highly recommend getting one with CL7

F3-10666CL7D-4GBRH

1333MHz: this is the highest i5 will go without OC, so fine.

1.5V: this is the stock and spec voltage for DDR3. Awesome for this speed.

CL7: again good, I would highly recommend CL7.

When I was deciding, I originally chose the 1333MHz ram. However, when the 1600 wen on sale for $25 less, I had to get it. My plan is to try to get it to run to the 1333MHz's specs, though it may require more than 1.5V.

So, long story short:

1600MHz:
Major Pro: can be clocked higher if CPU is OC'ed

1333MHz:
Major Pro: Guaranteed to run at 1333MHz, 7-7-7-21, while at a very low 1.5V.

Other notes, when choosing ram, go for the smaller heat spreaders. At the speeds/voltages i5/i7's use, the ram will not run hot. So tall heat spreader just get in the way (or worse, fall off and break your GPU).
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December 2, 2009 12:28:37 AM

How would you rate the makers of the ram? I only know PNY and G.SKILL personally. There are lots of cheaper ram sets with the same specs from makers like OCZ

Also does this 1.35v suffer from being that low?
G.SKILL ECO Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333
Capacity 4GB (2 x 2GB)
Speed DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666)
Cas Latency 7
Timing 7-7-7-21-2N
Voltage 1.35V
ECC No
Buffered/Registered Unbuffered
Multi-channel Kit Dual Channel Kit
Heat Spreader Yes



Edit: Also just to clarify that im getting this right :ange:  the 1600 is better if you plan to OC, even if its running at 1.6? Like the ram im looking at
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Capacity 4GB (2 x 2GB)
Speed DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Cas Latency 7
Timing 7-8-7-24
Voltage 1.6V
ECC No
Buffered/Registered Unbuffered
Multi-channel Kit Dual Channel Kit
Heat Spreader Yes
Features Specifically Designed to compatible with Intel Core i5 and Core i7 for Intel P55 motherboard

What all would you change on the ram settings when you OC the CPU?
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December 2, 2009 12:38:57 AM

Gskill and Corsair the only two I use.
That Eco stuff must be new, I've never seen or heard of it. It looks really nice, and its so cheap for 1.35v cl7. 1660 ram is only better for extreme overclocking, otherwise 1333 is fine. The 1.35v would be better for overclocking I'd think.
I would surely go with that new Eco stuff, I can't find any reviews on it thought, its so new.
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December 2, 2009 12:40:32 AM

OCZ is usually good. I have several sets of their ram and all have worked as advertised. I used to get Corsair as well, but recently they have not been very good values.
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December 2, 2009 12:41:39 AM

Cool, thanks for the Info, ill take the 1.35v.
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December 2, 2009 12:41:50 AM

Yeah, that Eco stuff looks crazy (in a good way). That is some high quality ram to run that fast at so low of voltage. It must be new, that is the first time I have seen it.
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December 2, 2009 12:44:59 AM

ya it is, they just added it today(or yesterday).
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December 2, 2009 12:52:19 AM

Hey what do yall think of my GPU?
SAPPHIRE 100283L Radeon HD 5770 (Juniper XT) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card

I only know SAPPHIRE so that why its listed for now but are there any comparable ones from other makers for cheaper? If its just best to stick with SAPPHIRE then i will.


Also here is the specs from G.Skills site for that new ram
Quote:

Main Board intel
System Desktop
System Type DDR3
M/B Chipset Intel P55
CAS Latency 7-7-7-21-2N
Capacity 4GB (2GBx2)
Speed DDR3-1333 (PC3 10666)
Test Voltage 1.35 Volts
PCB
Registered/Unbuffered Unbuffered
Error Checking Non-ECC
Type 240-pin DIMM
Warranty Lifetime

 

Qualified Motherboards List

 
ASUS Maximus III Formula
ASUS Maximus III Gene
ASUS SABERTOOTH 55i
ASUS P7P55D Premium
ASUS P7P55D Deluxe
ASUS P7P55D EVO
ASUS P7P55D Pro
ASUS P7P55D
EVGA P55 Classified 200
EVGA P55 FTW 200
EVGA P55 FTW
EVGA P55
EVGA P55 Micro
EVGA P55 LE
MSI P55M-GD45
MSI P55-GD65
MSI P55-GD80
Gigabyte GA-P55 UD3
Gigabyte GA-P55 UD3P
Gigabyte GA-P55 UD3R
Gigabyte GA-P55 UD4
Gigabyte GA-P55 UD4P
Gigabyte GA-P55 UD5
Gigabyte GA-P55 UD6


Looks like it will work just fine for me.


Also here is my updated list.



Thanks for all the help so far everyone. It has made this process so much easier. Now atleast my brain doesn't go :pt1cable:  when i look at all these parts.
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December 2, 2009 1:14:14 AM

The GPU looks good to me.
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December 2, 2009 1:27:50 AM

Sounds good then, ill keep it.

Thanks

Updated List:
Quote:
I have a:
mouse *Own from Before*
keyboard *Own from Before*
monitor(Samsung SyncMaster™ 245BW-glossy black (24" widescreen monitor)) *Own from Before*
Powersupply(Rosewill BRONZE series RBR1000-M 1000W Continuous@40°C, 80Plus Bronze Certified,Modular Cable Design,ATX12V v2.3/ EPS12V,SLI Ready,CrossFire Ready,Active PFC"Compatible with Core i7, i5" Power Supply) $99.99
Case: (COOLER MASTER Storm Scout SGC-2000-KKN1-GP Black Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case) $49.99
HDD: (SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive) $84.99
MOBO: (GIGABYTE GA-P55-UD4P LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel Motherboard) $169.99
RAM: (G.SKILL ECO Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL7D-4GBECO) $97.99
Optical: (Sony Optiarc 24X DVD/CD Rewritable Drive Black SATA Model AD-7240S-0B) $31.99
Thermal Paste: (Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound) $7.99
Win 7 ($32 to get Win 7 home premium student discounted from microsoft store(must call them) then $15 for Win 7 Ultimate upgrade from my university)
GPU: (SAPPHIRE 100283L Radeon HD 5770 (Juniper XT) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card) $179.99
CPU: (Intel i5 750 from Micro Center for $149)

Going to buy:
CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7 compatible RR-B10-212P-G1 120mm "heatpipe direct contact" Long life sleeve CPU Cooler $29.98

TOTAL TO BUY: 1019.65 after rebates including shipping
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December 2, 2009 1:40:24 PM

Can yall see any cables or spare parts i will need with this setup so i can order them early?

Thanks a lot for all the help.
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December 2, 2009 6:18:43 PM

Anyone know if the heatsink will fit in the case i have for sure? I mean it looks like it should fit(without adding another fan on the side window of the case)
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December 2, 2009 7:15:34 PM

I don't know for sure, but I believe it should since that looks about the width of my case and I am pretty sure that cooler fits in my case w/o a side fan. However, I don't have that case nor have I built mine yet so i cannot be 100% sure.
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December 3, 2009 2:17:33 AM

Thanks, worst case ill return it and get a smaller one in height.
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!