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Corsair H100 Mod

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a b K Overclocking
May 21, 2012 8:23:36 AM

Hello All.

I'm trying to mod my H100.

Tools
------
Corsair H100
Tube: Clear Tygon 6mm(1/4) ID 8mm(5/16) OD [Replace Corsair H100 tubes]
Extra 120mm Radiator: Swiftech MCRx20-QP or Swiftech MCRx20-XP
Reservoir: Swiftech MCP35X or Swiftech MCRES Micro Rev2
Barb: G1/4 Thread to 6mm (1/4) [CANNOT FIND]

Setup: Pump > H100's Radiator > Reservoir > Swiftech Radiator > Pump

Fans for the extra radiator will be (2) Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM in push and pull.

Here is the Barb that i am looking for: *Where can i find these?*


Here is what im going for: but with another radiator after the reservoir.


Also, what liquid coolant do you recommend? I want my tubes to glow red or show red, but i don't want to sacrifice higher temps for it. So if non colored coolants works better in lowering temps, then i will go for that.

More about : corsair h100 mod

a b K Overclocking
May 21, 2012 10:09:27 AM

I don't recommend doing this at all. The H100 is a sealed system, it was not designed to work with other watercooling components and probably does not use standard barbs and hose measurements (I have one, but I haven't looked closely). Similarly it is unwise to put two pumps in the same loop.

If you want to watercool either go with an H100 and leave it at that or go with an entire Swiftech solution. You won't be able to find G1/4 to 6mm barbs, they may exist but I guarantee that it's not worth the effort. I think the H100 uses 1/4 inch tubes, there's simply no point in doing anything to it. You will see no gain by adding an extra reservoir and radiator, none. In fact, the H100 pump might not have enough headroom to push the water through your extra gear, hindering performance. The tubes for the H100 are simply too narrow to support what you want to do. I have done both (my old Core2Quad system was entirely custom watercooled with dual radiators, this one only has the CPU on water) and will offer you some advice.

First, You want the same diameter tubing at all points. Swiftech makes some awesomely powerful pumps (655 for half inch is the best, 355 for 3/8ths is quieter but offers less flow) so you should base your entire loop around this. Either stick with just the H100 and its 1/4 inch tubes or use the much larger half inch tubes.

Second, Don't bother with expensive coolant. Get a 50/50 mixture of water and Ethylene-Glycol from your local autoshop and use that. Antifreeze is cheaper, self lubricating and anti-everything. Just make sure that your tubing is safe to use. You can dilute it to 75% water if you so desire (make sure to use distilled) but from my experience 50/50 is awesome and has a nice yellow glow. Coolant dyes are worthless.

Third, use compression fittings if you can find them. They are a bit more expensive but look very nice. If you don't want to use compression fittings, you MUST use metal hose clamps at every junction. This is especially important on the 355/655 because they will pressurize the coolant enough that hoses will slip their barbs.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/5/SportsRec/Marin...

Fourth, if you ever open your waterblocks for any reason you must reseal them with a sealant such as this

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/Specialty...

If your motherboard is particularly awkward you may have to do it anyway. Even the slightest crack will leak all over the place. Keep in mind that the water provided by swiftech pumps will be under a lot of pressure
a c 125 K Overclocking
May 21, 2012 10:12:28 AM

Hi

Your loop order needs to change, the res should be before the pump (and above it), otherwise you'll run the pump dry and could damage it.

Have you looked on the specialtech.co.uk website for your fittings?

Just a note about clear tubing: All brands of clear tubing I've used have turned cloudy within weeks, so if you had Red coolant and clear tubing, it may look pink after a few weeks.

If you want colour I'd suggest you go for coloured tubing and clear coolant (distilled water and a silver coil).
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a b K Overclocking
May 21, 2012 11:29:39 AM

thanks for the input guys!

I found out the H100 pump is a piece of crap, selling tomorrow.

I have about $250-$300 now to spend on a custom loop.

NZXT Phantom won't fit a very big radiator (240mm max, possibly 360mm) so what should i buy?

I was looking into the XSPC RASA 750 RS240 or the RS360 which is thin enough to slide above my ram clearance.

Or would you recommend something else?

My main concern atm is to lower CPU Temps from 70C to around the 50-60 region. (i5 2500k @ 5ghz w/ 1.46v)
Also have Dual GTX 670's, so if i can incorporate that into the loop too, then that'd be nice.

Radiator(s):
Pump:
Reservoir:
CPU Block:
GPU Block(optional):
Hose:
Barb:
Fans: (3x) Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM
Coolant:
a c 125 K Overclocking
May 21, 2012 11:40:45 AM
a c 324 K Overclocking
May 21, 2012 6:39:49 PM

Quote:
My main concern atm is to lower CPU Temps from 70C to around the 50-60 region. (i5 2500k @ 5ghz w/ 1.46v)
Also have Dual GTX 670's, so if i can incorporate that into the loop too, then that'd be nice.


i5 @5ghz is going to be a real problem- it's going to sustain load at temps of around 65C or higher simply because of the clock speed and voltage needed for stability. While CPU reported temps aren't the same as actual water temps, I'd advise you to not place too much hope in getting this as low as you state. Even my i7 2600 at stock speeds (3.4) can reach temps around 54C using Intel Burn Test.

You are really looking at a 360 radiator for the CPU alone if you want to manage this accordingly; add an additional 360 for both the 670's as well. You can run this all on a single loop if you wish, depending on CPU and GPU blocks and restriction, you might consider a DDC (MCP355) with a top, MCP35x or a D5 (MCP655).

Is there a reason you are running the i5 at 5ghz and not in the upper-safe-zone of 4.5 or 4.6? You are looking at chip degradation due to increased voltage at 5ghz, and there isn't really anything that benefits from 5ghz over 4.5ghz except for benchmarking (which you could simply clock down from 5.0 to 4.5 once you are done).

XSPC kits aren't going to be an option unless you choose one with the DDC or D5 pump upgrade option. There isn't any point of cooling a 5ghz i5 or i7 with a Rasa/Raystorm kit using the X20 pump; let alone adding SLI 670's in the mix.

You're looking at a $500-$600 loop if you include GPUs, depending on what GPU blocks you go with.
a b K Overclocking
May 21, 2012 7:43:07 PM

now that's a good loop.
a b K Overclocking
May 21, 2012 8:08:24 PM

I recommend you sell the H100 it's a piece of you know what :lol:  it's not real water cooling the NH-D14 is just as good as the H100 if not better i also agree with everything rubix said you also should not run the i5-2500k past 4.6ghz for 24-7 use if you do you'll be replacing it in 6 months :( 
a b K Overclocking
May 21, 2012 8:16:52 PM

I also don't recommend running it 1.4v that's not very wise for benchmarking fine but 24-7 noway you need 1.3v or lower 24-7 use or you'll be sorry why do you want to run it so high if i may ask
a c 324 K Overclocking
May 21, 2012 9:53:11 PM

I'm not telling him that he shouldn't run those speeds- it's certainly his decision. However, he should know the consequences of doing so...if even to simply determine when he runs at those speeds and when he backs it off for email and YouTube.

Overclocking your hardware to it's highest potential when needed, is great, and I fully support it. However- be advised that 24/7 will net you shorter life spans based on voltage and heat being produced during the time of overclocking.
a b K Overclocking
May 21, 2012 9:55:54 PM

rubix_1011 said:
I'm not telling him that he shouldn't run those speeds- it's certainly his decision. However, he should know the consequences of doing so...if even to simply determine when he runs at those speeds and when he backs it off for email and YouTube.

Overclocking your hardware to it's highest potential when needed, is great, and I fully support it. However- be advised that 24/7 will net you shorter life spans based on voltage and heat being produced during the time of overclocking.
i agree with you i am not telling him what to do either simply saying the consequences of doing so ;)  However i overclock my i5-2500k 4.5 ghz 1.2v 24-7 and have been for 11 months so i am not so sure about the lifespan short thing i think it's only true if you have your v at 1.4 or higher for 24-7 use although i could be wrong but i will risk it since so far looks to be totally bs :lol: 
!