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Aquarium CHiller for a Computer

I have an Old Aquarium Chiller from my now decommissioned 50G reef tank and I was just about to list it on EBay when a thought hit me would this work for my new computer? I won’t bore you with the details but here are the specs
• Horsepower: 1/10hp
• Capacity: 1270 BTU/hr
• Voltage: 115V
• Amps: 2.63A
• Flow Rate (min/max): 4/16 gpm
• Dimensions: 16.5" x 9.8" x 18.5"
• Weight: 44 lbs
PC to be cooled I7-2700K 4 GTX 580 HC (if I can find the 680HC I will use them)
I figured by the time I got fans and Radiators I would be 500 or so into the cooling part of the loop so if one of these isn’t enough I could pick up a second one pretty fast.
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  1. You'll probably get decent performance out of it. You'll need to flush it really well in order to get the salt out.

    I'd thought about using one of these before, since my dad's into reefs. 1270 BTU/hr is approximately 370 watts, so you could easily cool a CPU or GPU without a radiator.
  2. Oh so I need about 5X that size I was trying to find the BTU's of my CPU but I know what it is in Watts so 1270 is no where near enough 5K BTU's would work I think which would be a 1/2Hp or 2/3HP unit the nice part about a chiller is I can set the temp I want and it will keep the temp there (as long as the thermal load isn't too high)

    WOuld this one do it


    Specifications

    Arctica Titanium Aquarium Chiller DBA-250:
    •Horsepower: 1/3hp
    •Capacity: 4000 BTU/hr
    •Voltage: 115V
    •Amps: 7.25A
    •Flow Rate (min/max): 8/40 gpm
    •Dimensions: 15.7" x 13.7" x 17.7"
    •Weight: 61 lbs
    Warning!
    Do not place chillers inside of stands! Arctica chillers must have 1 ft clearance in the front and rear of the chiller to cool properly. Improper usage will void warranty and may cause serious damage to the chiller.



    •Smart Memory Chip restores to last set temperature after power failure.
    •Auto IC Temperature Control System
    •Digital LED Temperature controller can easily be read day or night
    •Inline Series
    •No hard plumbing necessary
    •Quick installation offered with 3 different size hose connections (1/2" or 5/8" or 3/4") for all models


    •One of the quietest chillers out in the market
    •Highly efficient condenser-uses less energy
    •Contemporary and small foot print design
    •Side handles
    •Condenser grill located in front for easy maintenance
    •This powerful cooling system guarantees stable consistent temperatures
    •Titanium coils are the most efficient are the most efficient for heat exchanging
    •Corrosion resistant
    •Anti-freezing system will not allow the heat exchanger to freeze
    •Contains safe Ozone Friendly Refrigerant (R134-A)
  3. 4000 BTU/hr is a little more than 1100 watts...
  4. Best answer
    Google your chips tdp, stock should be 95w, overclocked will be more ofc and do the same for your cards,
    this will give you the watts you need to dissipate,convert the chillers capatity from Btu's to watts and you have the required figure, and bear in mind a rad or two, even passive, in the loop will help the cooling further
    Moto
  5. I think an aquarium chiller would work pretty well for a cooler if the refridgeration pump can work decently. I'd probably leave a little headroom, but I feel like it should work (at least thermodynamically). It'd be nice to see sub-25C load temps :D
  6. Quote:
    bear in mind a rad or two, even passive, in the loop will help the cooling further


    Depends.

    This will be based on how effective the chiller is actually able to get the cold water below ambient; the further below ambient, the easier it is for the rads to actually warm up the cold water rather than benefit it in cooling anything down even more.

    I think 4ryan6 actually mentioned this took place in his sub-ambient ice chiller- the rads actually caused the ice to melt faster as they acted to introduce ambient heat into his loop since there was a large difference in water and ambient temp.
  7. This Chiller kept my 50G reef tank at 81 with over 400Watts of MH lighting over it but it won't reach sub zero temp I would be happy to keep the whole computer at 65 or 70 degrees (about room temp)
  8. Are you meaning water temps or CPU/GPU load temps? There's a difference.
  9. I believe Ryan solved the rads melting issue when he did the radbox project Rubix, but that is definitely one thread Op should be reading hehe
    http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/275185-11-exploring-ambient-water-cooling
    Moto
  10. Right, but I believe he discussed the rads in the main loop adding to the the heat load and also melting the ice more quickly.

    Just have to be careful when using sub-ambient cooling loops that you aren't introducing more heat into the loop than you are trying to remove. :)
  11. Oh its all fun and games at this point hehe,
    I'm actually considering an icebox (Fk knows where it will go lol)
    Moto
  12. Best answer selected by belezeebub.
  13. belezeebub said:
    I have an Old Aquarium Chiller from my now decommissioned 50G reef tank and I was just about to list it on EBay when a thought hit me would this work for my new computer? I won’t bore you with the details but here are the specs
    • Horsepower: 1/10hp
    • Capacity: 1270 BTU/hr
    • Voltage: 115V
    • Amps: 2.63A
    • Flow Rate (min/max): 4/16 gpm
    • Dimensions: 16.5" x 9.8" x 18.5"
    • Weight: 44 lbs
    PC to be cooled I7-2700K 4 GTX 580 HC (if I can find the 680HC I will use them)
    I figured by the time I got fans and Radiators I would be 500 or so into the cooling part of the loop so if one of these isn’t enough I could pick up a second one pretty fast.


    Man you have an excellent cooling solution already in your hands!

    The 1/10hp specs state, it can handle over twice the water of the 50g tank, capable of a 50F ~ 95F, temp control, lowest capability of 50F = 10C, should be an excellent cooling solution, no radiators needed at all, simply because you would be dealing with a thermal mass factor 6 times what I'm running.

    You wouldn't need to even run 50 gallons, if you ran half that, 25 or 20 gallons for that matter your chiller would be cruising to maintain 50F.

    Once 20 gallons has reached a stable 50F, it would take a long time of computer operation to heat that much water just 2C, with the chiller off, and your chiller would be maintaining the 50F anyway, sounds great!

    You could run a sealed lid and some critter control, fully insulate the outside of the tank and be good to go.

    I want one! :D
  14. :)
    I knew you would see this one lol,
    Thank you for B.a. Op, and shout up when we can help again,
    Trust me, with Ryan, Rubix Boiler and me on your side its going to be almost easy,
    Wheres Lutfij?
    He'll get a black mark for missing this thread....
    Moto
  15. With my OCD and ADHD I always have to at least read through every WC thread. If there is an unread flag, I'll at least see what's in there, and likely will post.

    I figured Ry would have some of the biggest influence as this would be very similar to his initial setup, in theory.
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