Did I screw my PC up by using Auto-Tune

So I used the Auto-Tune function of AMD Vision Control Center a few hours ago...
I used it on my AMD Phenom II 1090 cpu and it started with 33oo mhz, then 3400 mhz and then was 3500 mhz.
After 30 seconds my pc shutdown... I thought it became too hot so it shut down for safety or something.
So I waited half an hour and tried to boot it. The LED's on my fans lit up for a fraction of a second but nothing else happened.
My pc didn't boot at all, nothing is happening...
DID I SCREW UP MY PC OR WHAT CAN I DO TO BOOT IT AGAIN????????????????????/
Please help me, greets RePlayed
43 answers Last reply
More about screw auto tune
  1. Take the CMOS battery out from your motherboard and reinstall it. The reasons why you can't boot is because you didn't overclock correctly.
  2. Thanks for your fast reaction. I'll try that with the battery. It is the round one that looks like one out of a watch right? Do I have to leave it out for 10 seconds or something? I actually didn't know I was overclocking already. I thought it was testing which speed was suitable for overclocking...
  3. It's unlikely that you caused any permanent damage by running the autotune function. What most likely did happen is that the function set the startup settings to the same settings that caused it to shutdown in the first place. What you need to do is reset those settings back to the defaults so it can startup properly again. How you do this is dependent on what motherboard you have. Sometimes the motherboard will have a button or switch right on it for clearing the settings, other times it will have a jumper, other times you will have to remove the clock battery (it is literally a watch battery on the motherboard, you can't miss it) but this is depreciated since settings are usually stored in non-volatile memory now. Other methods of clearing the settings include holding down the power button for 10-30 seconds. Check your motherboard manual to find out what you have to do.

    After you have cleared the settings you may need to change a few things such as the storage controller configuration, thermal management options, boot order, etc...

    Good luck!
  4. WOOOOW thats a lot of info. I have got a MSI 870A-G54 by the way. Do I have to do the difficult thingy of the battery thingy?
  5. replayed said:
    WOOOOW thats a lot of info. I have got a MSI 870A-G54 by the way. Do I have to do the difficult thingy of the battery thingy?


    Having to remove the battery has been depreciated for many years on most motherboards. There are still a few floating around that use volatile SRAM to store BIOS configuration but anything that uses UEFI stores it in non-volatile Flash instead. Since the settings are no longer backed by a battery removing it usually just causes the RTC to stop running which just forces you to reset the time later on
  6. Okay I just took a look at your motherboard manual. Your motherboard is one of the older style ones that uses a battery backed CMOS SRAM chip to store data. Fortunately there is a jumper labeled JBAT1 which can be switched by moving the jumper from pin 1-2 to pin 2-3 and then back to 1-2. This is explained further on page 2-17 of your motherboard manual available here

    http://www.msi.com/service/download/manual-12738.html

    Good luck
  7. Thanks I just fetched my manual from the box. I have taken a look at that jumper before but how does it work. I just move the pin with the power still off or when it is powered? Do I have to wait when it is in 2-3?
  8. Power the system off but leave the cord plugged in. You can turn the power supply breaker off but the earth ground should always be connected when working on anything (the third prong on the power cord). Use a pair of needle nose pliers or tweezers to carefully grasp the jumper and move it one notch over, then wait 3-5 seconds and move it back. Done!
  9. Gonna try it right now.
  10. Good luck!
  11. Button Of the PSU should be on off right
  12. Doesn't matter from a technical perspective. Turn it off just to be safe
  13. DAMN. I have tried it multiple times. It cost me a lot of afford to change the position of the switch, therefore it was like Jumper off 1-2, 20 sec later it was on 2-3, wait 5 sec, cost me 30 sec to put back in 1-2. STILL NOT WORKING IM ABOUT TO CRY/SCREAM
    pleasehelpme, im gonna try it once more
  14. are you using stock cooling fans? is it not posting .. ? to be honest with you i had a 1090t die on me by using the oc software bundled with gigabytes stuff .. im currently running a 1090t like you and i always use manual oc settings .. do your self a favor unplug the computer from the power outlet and press the power button .. then plug the power outlet back in and try powering it up .. if this is a recent build check to make sure all the cables to your power supply and motherboard are firmly seated some times with modular cables they come loose after or during instilation due to tugging and what not ... i had a similar issue and it turned out to be a loose cable as for your mother board if it has a bios reset button like mine dose then id try that it sounds like hard ware..
  15. I am using 4 Sharkoon 120mm silent eagle blue LED fans. What do you mean by unplugging from the power outlet? Just unplug it from the wall socket/psu or the mainboard/psu?
  16. and when you do get it to boot back up turn off core boost and set it to 3.4 the clock multiplier functions in increments of 200 mhz or 3.6 go any higher and you will have to raise your voltages to remain stable and you dont want to push it much past 1.45 volts stock i think is 1.3 at least on my board.. just saying some overclock better then others later stepping helps too..
  17. unplug the computer form the wall socket and press the power button .. then plug it back in .. that will clear the charge .. any way step 2 check power cable connections to all parts .. step 3 throw it out the window. if fans run but nothing else works id say its a dead processor..
  18. I am not going to overclock anymore after this madness... I hope I can get my PC running again...
  19. another common mistake is when installing the cpu people put too little thermal paste on and it dosnt spread to all the corners and burns up the cpu ..
  20. This is what i got. Did the unplugging thing and when i press the power button after that. The blue and red lights on the overclock button and turning thing go on for a fraction of a second. These always burn when my pc is on overclocked or not. I am going to bed now... (I live in the netherlands so it is 11 pm now...)
  21. About the thermal paste thing, wouldn't my cpu have burnt up already when i was playing battlefield 3 on quite some high graphics that made my graphic cards sweat...
  22. goodguy713 said:
    unplug the computer form the wall socket and press the power button .. then plug it back in .. that will clear the charge .. any way step 2 check power cable connections to all parts .. step 3 throw it out the window. if fans run but nothing else works id say its a dead processor..


    Never trust a computer that you can't throw out the window
  23. Pinhedd do you have any suggestions?
  24. replayed said:
    Pinhedd do you have any suggestions?


    Throw it out the window

    but first try booting it with one stick of RAM in the 4th memory slot (or the furthest one from the CPU)
  25. just saying .. who knows sofware based oc is kinda like playing with fire.. i always use manual i play bf3 like crazy and have my system oced .. just saying from exspirience i hope that works for you if not if you have a second computer try testing your power supply in that one to make sure .. all i know is in my situation i bought my processor from amazon and got at new one in like 2 days and free shipping .. brand new processor and every thing worked again.. on another note i did do something differently i went to the local hardware store and bought rubber washers to prevent my mother board from possibly getting shorted by the case and put them in between the stand off screws..
  26. Pinhedd said:
    Throw it out the window

    but first try booting it with one stick of RAM in the 4th memory slot (or the furthest one from the CPU)


    So should I do 1 and 4 or 2 and 4
  27. replayed said:
    So should I do 1 and 4 or 2 and 4


    Only one stick installed period, but in the 4th slot
  28. Pinhedd said:
    Power the system off but leave the cord plugged in. You can turn the power supply breaker off but the earth ground should always be connected when working on anything (the third prong on the power cord). Use a pair of needle nose pliers or tweezers to carefully grasp the jumper and move it one notch over, then wait 3-5 seconds and move it back. Done!


    Any chance he has one of those older mobos, where you have to power on the board while the jumper is in the recovery position? You know - jumper, hit power button, unplug, rejumper, replug, power on?
  29. sbogus said:
    Any chance he has one of those older mobos, where you have to power on the board while the jumper is in the recovery position? You know - jumper, hit power button, unplug, rejumper, replug, power on?


    I've never heard of a mobo where that's necessary. The whole purpose of the jumper is to disconnect the power from the volatile SRAM that's storing the BIOS configuration without disconnecting it from the RTC. This clears the SRAM but leaves the clock functional. This causes a BIOS mismatch on startup which forces a full reinitialization to factory settings for everything that's stored in the SRAM
  30. sbogus said:
    Any chance he has one of those older mobos, where you have to power on the board while the jumper is in the recovery position? You know - jumper, hit power button, unplug, rejumper, replug, power on?

    Just tried that, no luck either...
  31. replayed said:
    Just tried that, no luck either...


    Keep cracking at it. Did you try the 1 DIMM in 4th slot solution? You should also try booting it with a lower speed DIMM such as a 512MiB one that only has a 1066 or 1333 profile. A 10 dollar stick will do and can be useful to have on hand to resurrect some systems (saved a few boards using this method).

    Alternatively, try the CPU in another motherboard if you can.
  32. After unplug, power, plug in, power(try to boot) also a cpu phase light lit up for a fraction of a second
  33. Tried both of my 2 1333 sticks in the fourth slot, nothing happened. Can I use any old stick which is ddr-3 but at a slow speed?
    EDIT: I havent got any ddr 3 sticks left
  34. Any other suggestions?
  35. This may sound crazy but I think that you may had screwed up your power supply when you started experimneting with over clocking. When I started overclocking my machine is when I learned what a true pice of crap my processor was. I thought it was my motherboard. That was a shocker. Test your power supply.
  36. Pinhedd said:
    I've never heard of a mobo where that's necessary. The whole purpose of the jumper is to disconnect the power from the volatile SRAM that's storing the BIOS configuration without disconnecting it from the RTC. This clears the SRAM but leaves the clock functional. This causes a BIOS mismatch on startup which forces a full reinitialization to factory settings for everything that's stored in the SRAM


    Specifically, I was thinking of an 865GLC/PESO. It shouldn't have been necessary, but it was :)
  37. How can I test my PSU?
  38. replayed said:
    How can I test my PSU?


    Paper clip test. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXzrCr0RLm4
  39. PSU tested, that worked fine. So it is not my PSU that broke down.
  40. replayed said:
    PSU tested, that worked fine. So it is not my PSU that broke down.


    Dang, well I was hoping that was going to work for you. Now all you have left is to pull everything out and test the one piece at a time. You need to find some parts that you know work and use them to test.

    OR

    You can do the smart thing and have it serviced by someone who knows what they are doing and is willing to work with you. If the tech is a jerk find a new one. (I am so sick of jerks making money)

    best of luck,

    Jim
  41. voodooking said:
    Dang, well I was hoping that was going to work for you. Now all you have left is to pull everything out and test the one piece at a time. You need to find some parts that you know work and use them to test.

    OR

    You can do the smart thing and have it serviced by someone who knows what they are doing and is willing to work with you. If the tech is a jerk find a new one. (I am so sick of jerks making money)

    best of luck,

    Jim


    Done that, Turns out that my motherboard got overheated... My aftermarket CPU cooler doesn't blow air onto the board, the standard one did...
    I still have warranty so I will get a new motherboard(in 4-8 weeks). So I probably have to survive summer break (6 weeks holidays) without gaming. I can only run some easy games on my laptop but .............

    Thanks for your help....
  42. Sure this been said.. sounds like the RAM memory stick is messed upI had same issue before computer turn on then turn off before the POST.. turn out the auto tune messed up the RAM. Lucky my mobo ASUS had memory fix solved my issue.
  43. skunkz68 said:
    Sure this been said.. sounds like the RAM memory stick is messed upI had same issue before computer turn on then turn off before the POST.. turn out the auto tune messed up the RAM. Lucky my mobo ASUS had memory fix solved my issue.


    Nope, It was my mainboard
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