Xspc rasa 750 RS240 or RX240

i have norrowed my options to those two kits. i plan on cooling just my 2600k overclocked to a max of 4.7ghz. do i need the extra radiator that the rx has or is the thinner profile of the rs enough.
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More about xspc rasa rs240 rx240
  1. The RS and RX radiators are being phased out by XSPC. They are being replaced by the EX series of radiators, which is essentially a hybrid RS and RX but more of an "RS" radiator. This means you will need higher CFM fans, which can "result" in louder noise depending on your preferences.

    Is there a website you would like to buy from?
  2. amuffin said:
    The RS and RX radiators are being phased out by XSPC. They are being replaced by the EX series of radiators, which is essentially a hybrid RS and RX but more of an "RS" radiator. This means you will need higher CFM fans, which can "result" in louder noise depending on your preferences.

    Is there a website you would like to buy from?


    whatever is cheaper and noise means barely anything to me. my main question is is the RS size radiator enough for my needs.
  3. It is, but for almost the exact same price you can get the EX240 kit which outperforms the RS!
  4. amuffin said:
    It is, but for almost the exact same price you can get the EX240 kit which outperforms the RS!


    show me.... i dont see that kit on frozencpu.com or anywhere online
  5. lasttimeii said:

    You didn't read the thread. It was said that the ex was at the same price range as the rs and rx series which i did not find at that price
  6. my bad :) just read ( show me.... i dont see that kit on frozencpu.com or anywhere online )
  7. lasttimeii said:
    my bad :) just read ( show me.... i dont see that kit on frozencpu.com or anywhere online )


    ah i see what you saw now. my bad as well.

    I think i will go for the RS240 as its in stock at 130 and if i need the extra radiator that the rx has then its only 50 more so im about at the same price. What do you all think?
  8. Sorry I've missed this one so far, I'm at work :-)
    Rx if you have room, Ex if you don't, the Rs is obsolete as you get near Rx performance from the Ex at the same thickness, but as mentioned, they like slightly faster fans
    If the Ex kits not available, just Email them and ask if they'll part up a kit for you using the Ex rad
    If not then buy the parts seperately
    Moto
  9. Motopsychojdn said:
    Sorry I've missed this one so far, I'm at work :-)
    Rx if you have room, Ex if you don't, the Rs is obsolete as you get near Rx performance from the Ex at the same thickness, but as mentioned, they like slightly faster fans
    If the Ex kits not available, just Email them and ask if they'll part up a kit for you using the Ex rad
    If not then buy the parts seperately
    Moto


    so your saying either get the RX or EX and stay away from the RS. I will email them about making a kit for me. the problem with the RX is they are sold out and i have no clue when they will get a new shipment in and i am impatient.
  10. Rs and Rx are being phased out I hear so it may be a case of tracking one down, but you could always buy a Rs kit and add an Rx rad to that, even better cooling and with slower fans, quieter too
    I like to over rad personally but you should be fine with a single rad if thats what you choose, but if its between Rs and Ex, Ex all the way
    Moto
  11. i'd recommend rx if you had space...
  12. RX > EX > RS
  13. frozencpu seem to have alot of them stocked up nicely! +1 to rubix^
  14. well i got the RX and should be here friday. ill make up some brackets if the radiator wont fit in myy case which im 99% positive it wont but i like a small case.

    i went with the RX cause i always try to do things right the first time and i think the RX is what i need.
  15. If you bought the kit, it comes with brackets, its referred to as a 80-120mm adaptor, but I used them to mount my Rx on the roof
    Let us know when its here and if you need anymore assistance
    Moto
  16. awesome so i can use those brackets to mount the rad to a single 120mm fan pattern?

    also its better to pull rather then push air through or is that negligible?
  17. Quote:
    awesome so i can use those brackets to mount the rad to a single 120mm fan pattern?

    yeap
    Quote:
    also its better to pull rather then push air through or is that negligible?
    push/pull is good, a shroud between fans is an ideal situation and only running a fan in either push or pull is good enough. Most push - some pull.
  18. I'll link a pic of mine in the morning, or google 'Motopsychojdn next one' and its in there
    And if you're mounting externally, go full pushpull so you can turn them down for quiet
    Moto
  19. Motopsychojdn said:
    I'll link a pic of mine in the morning, or google 'Motopychojdn next one' and its in there
    And if you're mounting externally, go full pushpull so you can turn them down for quiet
    Moto

    i got some Noctua fans i can use as well in addition to the ones on my cooler. i will try all kinds of fan configs and i really dont care too much about noise.

    Motopychojdn next one, does not result in anything computer related.
  20. Aah, stupid phone, missed out the 'S',
    Motopsychojdn next one
    Sorry man :-)
    Moto
  21. so i just got it installed and might have an issue. there is a large air bubble in the tube exiting the water block that wont go away. i think it is caused by the fact that i put the exit port above the entrance. i dont see this as a large problem since the rad is getting a full tube of water and so is the block.
  22. also im using distilled water so if i have a leak, i should have a problem with frying anything since distilled water does not conduct electricity. well it might but from what i know its extremely small. what do you think.
  23. Make sure everything is secure in your case,
    With the pump running, rotate the case, shake the bubble free and work it out until it hits the res, at which point you can top up and remove the air,
    Gratx on the install man, and welcome to W/c :-)
    Moto
  24. Edit, water is conductive, make sure all fillports/fittings are secure as mentioned
    Moto
  25. water is conductive but that wasnt the question. i asked about distilled water which has no salt or nacl.

    correct me if im wrong!

    https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1_____enUS441US441&sugexp=chrome,mod=4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=is+distilled+water+conductive

    THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP TOO.
  26. Distilled water has no minerals in it because its been distilled,
    thats what distillation does, it removes minerals like salts from the base liquid,
    its used in W/c because minerals can build up and clog blocks, either through the mere fact they exist in the loop, or by reacting with the metals in the loop and causing corrosion
    but the conductivity of the liquid used will always increase to a point because as it passes through the pump it becomes ionised, it passes through the field created by the pump so is affected by it
    thats one reason we try to steer folks clear of 'XXXwundabrand non-conductive megawater Uv green fluid'
    dyes are particles in your liquid, particles are bad, and nothing passing through an electrical field is unaffected by it, that 'non-conductive' fluid you paid an extra $xxx for doesn't stay non-conductive for more than a few minutes
    NaCl is sodium chloride btw, I hope nobody adds table salt to their loop as its corrosive as hell hehe
    Moto
  27. Motopsychojdn said:
    Distilled water has no minerals in it because its been distilled,
    thats what distillation does, it removes minerals like salts from the base liquid,
    its used in W/c because minerals can build up and clog blocks, either through the mere fact they exist in the loop, or by reacting with the metals in the loop and causing corrosion
    but the conductivity of the liquid used will always increase to a point because as it passes through the pump it becomes ionised, it passes through the field created by the pump so is affected by it
    thats one reason we try to steer folks clear of 'XXXwundabrand non-conductive megawater Uv green fluid'
    dyes are particles in your liquid, particles are bad, and nothing passing through an electrical field is unaffected by it, that 'non-conductive' fluid you paid an extra $xxx for doesn't stay non-conductive for more than a few minutes
    NaCl is sodium chloride btw, I hope nobody adds table salt to their loop as its corrosive as hell hehe
    Moto


    awesome ok i just used walmart distilled water and have had no leaks so far. i didnt except any as ive had years of experience with radiators on a racing side of it but there a water leak isnt very bad unlike.....
  28. Hehe, I know,
    Pc W/c is a paranoid maniacs dream, you constantly check fittings, reservoir levels, tubing routes,
    my bikes got green Af discharge all down the radiator but meh, she runs fine :P
    Moto
  29. i never was to worried because in my mind its really hard to mess up. put on the hoses to the fittings tighten done fittings and tighten radiator clamps and there should be no leaks...
  30. Nice to deal with someone who has confidence in his work, makes life easier for us hehe
    Moto
  31. do you happen to have an idea of what temps i should be getting with this kit and an i7 2600k 4.6@1.37v?

    right now im about 52*c
  32. Couldn't say for sure, your ambient is a large factor in temps, but the voltage is nice and low so I'd expect a couple of degrees improvement
    Moto
  33. so ive tinkered around and added an additional 10"x7"x1.5" radiator to the loop and now im running about 50*c at 4.6..... i know thats good but its kinda a bummer that extra rad lowered my temps by 8-10*c..... and the extra rad is passive as well sitting on the floor face down. no air at all going through it.... granted it was designed to dissipated 25000 watts instead of 100 but thats another story.
  34. 25000w? Get some fans on that puppy!
    :-)
    Moto
  35. Motopsychojdn said:
    25000w? Get some fans on that puppy!
    :-)
    Moto


    haha the thing is that when it can dissipate that much it has roughly 2500 cfm going through it... lol that was the other story. its from a 125cc two stroke racing motor.
  36. Its not aluminium is it?
    If it is, get rid!
    Ally in a W/c loop is bad
    Moto
  37. ^ +1, you don't want anything like mixed metals in your loop. Google "zalman reserator+corrosion" and you'll see what we mean :)
  38. Lutfij said:
    ^ +1, you don't want anything like mixed metals in your loop. Google "zalman reserator+corrosion" and you'll see what we mean :)


    yeah i took it out. rads are too cheap to do anything like that though this rad that i was referencing runs in a system with brass and copper and barely has an extremely thin coat of white corrosion.
  39. erm, is it corrosion? usually its that plasticizer rubbish from cheap tubing that lines a rad innards when left unchecked for a LONG time.
  40. Lutfij said:
    erm, is it corrosion? usually its that plasticizer rubbish from cheap tubing that lines a rad innards when left unchecked for a LONG time.


    nope it looks like calcium build up actually which is weird since i only used distilled water in it. in case you dont know though this rad was not a rad for a computer it was for a 2 cycle motor.
  41. hmm, calcification is usually will indicate that tap water was used in the radiator along with a coolant...or I might be wrong.
  42. it is a old rad for a racing motor so straight water. but thats good to know for my computer rad.
  43. Did you flush it Thoroughly before use in the W/c loop?
    I'm leaning towards it being an aluminium rad, that layer is composed of thin white dust?
    Corrosive reaction
    Moto
  44. Motopsychojdn said:
    Did you flush it Thoroughly before use in the W/c loop?
    I'm leaning towards it being an aluminium rad, that layer is composed of thin white dust?
    Corrosive reaction
    Moto


    its from a race motor. hell yeah its clean lol. yeah its just aluminum oxide prolly if i had to guess but it was in the loop for maybe 30 minutes.
  45. Well either an anti-corrosion additive is needed or (My preference) ditch it and replace with a copper rad
    Moto
  46. ^ now that I'd side with anytime!
  47. Motopsychojdn said:
    Well either an anti-corrosion additive is needed or (My preference) ditch it and replace with a copper rad
    Moto


    its not in my loop........ i was just experimenting
  48. recylce alu rad into making a beverage container. They are horrible in cooling parts with mixed metals but awesome with drinks on the go :P
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