$800-$1000 i5 build

APPROXIMATE PURCHASE DATE: ~Next week. $800-$1000 budget. At this point, I'd like to try to get away with staying closer to $800 than to $1000.

SYSTEM USAGE FROM MOST TO LEAST IMPORTANT: Gaming will be the limiting factor. (doesn't have to be able to play 2010 games on max, though it be nice). But more importantly, I want this PC to last a while, so if paying a bit more for better quality parts (even if they don't perform much better) is fine.

PARTS NOT REQUIRED: No monitor, keyboard, or mouse needed. Just the case and components.

PREFERRED WEBSITE(S) FOR PARTS: Newegg, fry's; bigger names pretty much.

Case $70:


GPU+Power Supply

G.SKILL ECO Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL7D-4GBECO

COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7 compatible RR-B10-212P-G1 120mm "heatpipe direct contact" Long life sleeve CPU Cooler - Retail


Western Digital Caviar Blue WD3200AAKS 320GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive


OVERCLOCKING: No, maybe crossfire later down the road but not a sticking point

MONITOR RESOLUTION: Not too sure what the resolution will be but the monitor I will be using is a widescreen 22inch.

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: This is the first time I build a PC so my knowledge of the whole process is pretty limited. I know the least about motherboards so any help in choosing is greatly appreciated. Not sure if it makes a difference if I get one of the newer motherboards but I'd like to be able to add an SSD drive and/or a Blu-ray (not burner) drive in the future. Lastly, a really dumb question, what is thermal compound used for (is it needed)?

Thanks so much for any advice.
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More about 1000 build
  1. first, thermal compound is a highly heat conductive paste that keeps the cpu cool. the cpu comes with it, so you dont have to buy it. i would get this motherboard cpu combo instead:


    it is quality, future proof, and cheaper. the case is entirely your choice, but look at these:






    they all offer better build quality and more fans. also get a 500 Gb hdd. they are faster (its complicated) enough storage, and 5 or 10 dollars more expensive.
  2. I had looked at that board but in the newegg reviews as well as a few other places I found thing common problem:

    Quote from RetiredChief 11-26-2009 at 01:32:19 PM:

    "Refer P55A w/sata6 & USB3 support. Almost bought it, Got the P55-UD4P instead and am happy with it (Sligthly over $130 price point). P55A sounded good until I read the small print. If you enable Sata6 and USB3 support you loose the second pci-e slot and you down grade the first pci-e slot from X16 to X 8."

    I wasn't entirely sure what to make of this, in particular the part about downgrading the first pci-e slot; how much difference does it make?

    Thanks for the other suggestions; the board I picked was just one that was well rated and not too expensive but I'll look into the ones you linked.
  3. it means nothing really terrible. basically, if you put a adapter card in there running at 150 mb/sec, then nothing. the 16 and 8 means that is what is multiplied to get the maximum speed of the slot, which is far above anything worrying about.
  4. I looked that other Gigabyte motherboards to compare and found a combo with the UD4P for $45 more, wondering if it would be worth it at all. Seems like if I ever wanted to crossfire this would make a difference.
  5. i dont think it is worth it, because i cant see to many useful hardware bonuses. just stick with the other one.
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