I've been doing some research since i am planning on assembling a gaming rig
Here's what am building
mobo: gigabyte GA_MA785GT-UD3 (already got)
RAM: Super talent 2gd ddr3 1333
cpu: AMD Athlon II X2 Processor 250 (3.0 GHz) AM3 (already got)
gpu: ATi Readon Hd 4850 512 (powercolor)
here's comes my problem, i have an old 350w which according to some of the research i have done cannot cope with the power needs of the hd4850.
according to some iof the research i have done i need a 450w+ psu with at least 30A at the 12v rails. this is confusing since in some tech sites they claim that any 450W+ psu is ok (i have on with 14A & 15A at both 12v rails)
Could some one please advise me on the proper psu to get.
Yea any 450 watt PSU will prob power everything but you dont want a cheap PSU running your rig. A cheap no name PSU could damage your components so make sure you get a good name like Corsair Antec Silverstone even Cooler Master if you get there top of the line PSU.
Watch this video see what happens with cheap power supplies
Get a Corsair 450W to 650W.
*If you have trouble shipping parts then find reviews for the parts you CAN find (fan speed control, efficiency, quality, good reviews and the proper connections for your motherboard and video card(s) are the ideas.
You generally aim when building a system so the MAXIMUM power output is 50%. 50% is the most efficient in most power supplies. You will use less than this usually but you may upgrade in the future.
You would probably be just fine with a 450Watt Corsair.
A quality PSU:
- will be more efficient thus the power savings may eventually justify it's larger price
- is important if you don't want to fry your system (good ones have protection circuitry to prevent frying the motherboard and the attached components)
- will be quieter as it has fan speed control
Windows 7 64bit OEM (unless you need Linux, generally the previous is recommended highly now over 32-bit. It's probable that Windows 8 will be 64-bit only. The OEM version is far cheaper; the software is identical. The only difference between it and the full version is the OEM has no fancy packaging or book and most importantly once Activated is tied to that computer. Why pay two or three times the price for a Full package so you can transfer it to a new PC when you upgrade. First, you then have no OS on the old computer and second you'd likely build a new PC with the next version of Windows. At just over $100 it's a no-brainer to get OEM Windows.)
RAM: get 4GB. Running only 2GB for 64bit will slow things down. More than 4GB wouldn't really be noticed.
I really like the Vapor-X Sapphire cards. Anyway, get and HD5770 1GB, HD5850 1GB or HD5870 1GB depending on budget. You don't need the absolute fastest card.
The Antec 300 is a great case.
1) WD 1TB Black (partition to 300GB or more for C-Drive and the remainder for D)
2) optional second WD 1TB Green drive for backup and more storage.