Hello I've been out of the loop in DIY systems for a while and would like your advice on a new build for a system mainly for watching movies/transcoding movies and stream to my PS3 in the living room. I would like to be able to play games like Starcraft 2 (if it does come out; I don't believe it will require much graphics processing power). Mainly the system will be used for streaming/transcoding movies.
The system will be connected to a 1920X1080 display (TV) and 1920X1200 (monitor), one at a time or simultaneously. Graphics card should have HDMI connectivity.
APPROXIMATE PURCHASE DATE: within a month. BUDGET RANGE: $600-800
SYSTEM USAGE FROM MOST TO LEAST IMPORTANT: Watching movies, transcoding movies, play games
PARTS NOT REQUIRED: keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers, any type of software (including OS).
PREFERRED WEBSITE(S) FOR PARTS: newegg or other online retailer shipping to US. COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: US
PARTS PREFERENCES: intel preferred, non-flashy case, low-noise solutions welcome.
OVERCLOCKING: No SLI OR CROSSFIRE: No, unless it's cheaper to go with SLI.
MONITOR RESOLUTION: 1920x1080 and 1920x1200 (one at a time or simultaneously)
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: no flashy case please and less noise preferred.
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The conclusion on the last page of the article states:
The four boards that remained 100% stable are Gigabyte’s $170 P55-UD4P, Biostar’s $185 TPower I55, Asus’ $195 P7P55D EVO, and EVGA’s $200 P55-SLI. Of these, Gigabyte’s P55-UD4P has the second-highest CPU overclock, highest base clock, highest memory clock for high-end four-module configurations, lowest power consumption, and lowest VRM temperature. Gigabyte’s P55-UD4P also has the lowest price of the four top-quality boards and is thus the best value in its class.
The UD2 board listed above is a micro-ATX rather than full ATX form factor. The UD4P has a slot for a second graphics card should you later think about adding (but note that the PSU is not sized to SLI or Crossfire) but also already has USB 3.0 and SATA 6.0 GB/s - which might be helpful later if you are moving large video files to other devices. You could save $25 by going to the UD3P - you would still have the faster USB and SATA just no second graphics card slot. Here is a quick comparison of the three cards:
This card does not have an HDMI connector - but according to their website it is HDMI capable (requires adapter and audio cable, sold separately). It also has the nVidia advantage of Physx - I believe more programs will be taking advantage of using the graphics card to offload certain processing from the CPU - like what might be done in transcoding movies.
Note that the 690 costs less than the 590 listed by another above only because of a rebate - the retail price is higher. It also saves an addtional $10 on shipping cost. Here is a quick comparison of the two cases:
personally i think i have a better hardrive idea. the samsung spinpoint f3 is the best out that is not ssd. i would go with it plus its pretty cheap. SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD502HJ 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive (more details below). on newegg this runs for about $55