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Is this a good first time gaming computer build?

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January 19, 2010 10:18:46 AM

Please excuse my grammar


Hi guys this will be my first computer build so let me know if I can do better or if this is a good first start. If you have any advice or suggestion please feel free to let me know. Please tell me if everything MATCH, thanks!

Processor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Mobo: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Graphic Card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

PSU: (come free with graphic card) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Hard Drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... ( Do I need 500 gb harddrive if I have a 500 gb external harddrive already?

DvD rom: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...


Also I was wondering with my graphic card what size monitor do you think I should get and what resolution should I be playing at? (I have a monitor, so it not needed, but I want to know in case I decide to buy a new monitor)

Also what tools do I need to get build my computer?

Thanks!
January 19, 2010 10:24:23 AM

Just a quick tip...

Most of us aren't going to clickthrough links to figure out what items you've selected. Either

a) Type the name in above the link

or

b) use the url= command like this (open [ bracket) url=LINK HERE (close ] bracket) TYPE NAME HERE (open [ bracket) /url (closed ] bracket)

hmm, that's hard to read...

"["url=LINK"]"TEXT HERE"["/url"]"

just remove the quotation marks and insert link and text.
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a b U Graphics card
January 19, 2010 11:31:23 AM

You might want to following the guidelines in the thread in my signature. We need a budget to really help you.

Before we get the budget, here's a couple of suggestions:

PSU: I know it's free, and there's a reason for it. Thermaltake doesn't make great PSUs. I would pick up an OCZ StealthXStream 700W for $55 after rebates. It's a good quality one. Assuming you don't pay shipping, you can sell that Thermaltake to get rid of it.

RAM: Corsair makes poorly RAM with poor specs and sells it for about $15 (or more) above the competition. Here's some better sticks: G.Skill Ripjaws 2x2 GB 1600 mhz CAS Latency 7 for $115. It's $10 more, but it'll be a lot faster. The most important RAM spec is the CAS Latency, and lower is better. It's hard to find DDR3 lower than CL 7.

Case: Not a fan of that case. First, it doesn't come with a rear fan. The only fans you get are the two on the side. Second, it has a top mounted PSU, which with a non-modular PSU, the extra cords get in your way and restrict airflow. Third, it's as ugly as hell. I highly recommend spending the little extra for an HAF 922. It's arguably the best case available. Granted, it's still ugly as hell.

HDD: You don't need a 500 GB HDD, but you do need an internal one. That said, WD is not that great any more. Right now, it's third in a three horse race. The winner is the Samsung Spinpoint F3 500 GB for $55. It's super fast, quiet and runs very cool.

Mobo: A very expensive choice. The only thing you're paying for the 2 extra PCIe 2.0 slots, which you should only need at most 2. I recommend the Asus P7P55D-E Pro for $190. This board is cheaper, has the two slots for Crossfiring, and supports USB 3.0/SATA III ports. This makes it very future proof.
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Related resources
January 20, 2010 6:35:46 AM

Thanks Admiral

My budget is $1000 to $1200 (not including monitor, keyboard, mouse, speaker, headphone)

I want to know how correct are neweggs review because the case that I sold you got really good review.

The Samsung is sold out and does the mobo that you gave me have SLi as well?

I came up with the same list and some more from other forums and if you can help me pick out the right one. Thank you for the suggestion Admiral, I didn't want that mobo I listed because it seem unneeded. I have another mobo I would like you to see in case it is cheaper and is better than the one you recommended.

And to the above poster here is the name of the product. I just want to have every right and not more money on unneeded feature, parts, etc...

Thanks for the help Admiral.


Processor: (i5 or i7?) (Intel Core i5-750 Lynnfield 2.66GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor Model BX80605I5750 - Retail)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115215

MoboI need a mobo that has both SLI and Cross Fire for future upgrade that does not have too much extra, people have said that this mobo has too many unneeded slot)
(ASUS P7P55 WS SuperComputer with NF200 LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131594

or

( ASUS P7P55D-E Pro LGA 1156 Intel P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...p7p55d-e%20pro

or
GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 LGA 1156 Intel P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
SATA 3.0, USB 3.0, 3x USB power(limit 5 per customer) what's this?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128412

Memory: (CORSAIR XMS3 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMX4GX3M2A1600C9 - Retail )
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145260

or

G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-303-_-Product

or

OCZ 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) XMP-Ready Rev.2 Desktop Memory Model OCZ3X1600R2LV4GK - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227503

Graphic Card: SAPPHIRE 100282SR Radeon HD 5850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card w/ATI Eyefinity - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814102857

or (Is $100 more worth it for the 5870)?

ASUS EAH5870/2DIS/1GD5/A Radeon HD 5870 (Cypress XT) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card w/ATI Eyefinity - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814121345

PSU: (come free with graphic card) (Thermaltake TR2 W0388RU 600W ATX 12V v2.2 Power Supply - Retail)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817153114

or

OCZ StealthXStream OCZ700SXS 700W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Active PFC Power Supply - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-019-_-Product

or

XCLIO DIAMONDPOWER 680W 680W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Active PFC Power Supply - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817189019

Case: (Mid-Tower or High-Tower?)
XCLIO Windtunnel Fully Black Finish 1.0 mm SECC Chassis ATX Full Tower Computer Case - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811103011

or

COOLER MASTER HAF 922 RC-922M-KKN1-GP Black Steel + Plastic and Mesh Bezel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail
Free BELKIN surge protector w/ purchase, limited time offer
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-197-_-Product

Hard Drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822136320 ( Do I need 500 gb harddrive if I have a 500 gb external harddrive already?

DvD rom: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16827106289
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January 20, 2010 7:10:20 AM

hi Admiral

Also someone suggest this build, what do you think of it. A lot of the change you made were against this person recommendation so I just want to know.

Thanks

ok so this could be a start.
Newegg.com - Computer Parts, PC Components, Laptop Computers, Digital Cameras and more!
Newegg.com - Computer Parts, PC Components, Laptop Computers, Digital Cameras and more!
Newegg.com - Computer Parts, PC Components, Laptop Computers, Digital Cameras and more!
Newegg.com - Western Digital Caviar Black WD5001AALS 500GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Newegg.com - LITE-ON Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 22X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW SATA CD/DVD Burner - Bulk - CD / DVD Burners

these come under budget, totaling $1,056 + shipping.

if you wanted to go with a core i7 920, you could squeeze it in but it would probably make you go over budget and it wouldnt really offer any major in-game performance improvements.

if you still want to saturate your budget with the parts i listed, instead of the 500gb i listed you could go with a 1tb hdd
Newegg.com - Western Digital Caviar Black WD1001FALS 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
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a b U Graphics card
January 20, 2010 11:23:51 AM

To start with the second post, that's not really a build. You might want to put the actual parts in there. As far as what I can see, the WD is a bad choice as the Samsung Spinpoint F3s and Seagate 7200.12 are faster and cheaper.

Now for the first post (links don't work)...

Mobo: I'd go with the P7P55D-E Pro. It's cheaper and has USB 3/SATA III support. It does support both Crossfire and SLI. This is better than the Gigabyte because the Gigabyte's second PCIe 2.0 slot is only running at 4x, making it bad for dual card solutions.

RAM: G.Skill hands down. G.Skill is probably the best memory manufacturer right now, and is one of the cheapest.

GPU: Either one would be good. I'd be surprised if you had to upgrade the 5870 before you need a new computer, while it's possible with the 5850. As far as price to performance, the 33% more you pay for the 5870 only gets you about 20% more performance, so it might not be worth it. If you were for sure going to use Eyefinity (3 monitors as one screen) while gaming, I might recommend fitting the 5870 in.

PSU: The OCZ is a steal. I would check to see if there were any other useful combos with the GPU first. If not, get the free Thermaltake unit and sell it.

Case: Choosing a mid tower of a full tower doesn't really matter too much. I prefer the HAF 922 for a few reason. First, it is possibly the best case made. Second, it's reasonably priced against it's main competition. Third, it's as big as a full tower, so it can fit just about anything.

HDD: Since the F3 is sold out, the next best choice is the Seagate 7200.12 500 GB (or 1 TB). It's almost as fast and usually the same price.

And a note on the Newegg reviews: I wouldn't particularly trust them. They're written by users, who may or may actually know anything about technology. Most of the negatives are in regards to things that have nothing to do with the actual performance, and if they do, could have been easily fixed.
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January 20, 2010 8:43:52 PM

Admiral

Thank you so much for the build.

I manage to get the PSU and the DVD drive as a combo deal!

Now that part is taken care off, I need help with choosing the mouse, keyboard, speaker, and monitor.

Currently the G500 is on sale for 42 dollars, and I was wondering is that mouse better than the G5?

And what keyboard shall I get. I notice the G15 keyboard by logitech is not even in the top 5, and if not is a gaming keyboard needed?

Regarding speaker, I just need a good but cheap one, if you know off any.

As for the monitor, is it better to have a typical TFT monitor or one with HDTV?


Also let me make sure this is everything you recommended:


COOLER MASTER HAF 922 RC-922M-KKN1-GP Black Steel + Plastic and Mesh Bezel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail

G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL7D-4GBRM

ASUS P7P55D-E Pro LGA 1156 Intel P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

Intel Core i5-750 Lynnfield 2.66GHz LGA 1156 95W Quad-Core Processor Model BX80605I5750

Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 ST3500418AS 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5

SAPPHIRE 100282SR Radeon HD 5850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card w/ATI Eyefinity

Thermaltake TR2 W0388RU 600W ATX 12V v2.2 Power Supply - Retail

OCZ StealthXStream OCZ700SXS 700W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Active PFC Power Supply
LITE-ON CD/DVD Burner - Bulk Black SATA Model iHAS124-04


Is this correct? And everything fit together? Thanks once I get your reply I will buy it.


Also do I need a anti-wriststrap?
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a b U Graphics card
January 20, 2010 9:01:27 PM

That all looks good. Make sure to use the OCZ one in the build though.

As far as the extra stuff goes, I'm not too good at picking monitors and such. You might have to wait for someone else to answer that...
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January 20, 2010 9:25:09 PM

For your monitor do you do photoshop and photo rendering or just gaming and regular use and for a new monitor what would your budget be?
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January 21, 2010 1:05:04 AM

Aloid said:
For your monitor do you do photoshop and photo rendering or just gaming and regular use and for a new monitor what would your budget be?



Nope only gaming and nothing else. My budget well hopefully is $300 or less and the cheaper the better.
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January 21, 2010 1:09:39 AM

What size you looking for?
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January 21, 2010 1:16:44 AM

I'm not sure, can the HD 5850 graphic card handle a resolution size of 1900 X 1200?

I don't know if I need a 24inch or not, whatever size that make full use of my graphic card I guess.

What is the average size that most gamer use?
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January 21, 2010 1:18:04 AM

hey guys also do I need anti-static wrist strap? And if so where is teh best place to get it. Newegg is pretty cheap the the shipping cost more than the actual product.
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January 21, 2010 1:40:54 AM

Would the first monitor work as a HDTV? If not would it also work for my Xbox 360? Do you know?
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January 21, 2010 1:44:52 AM

Would the build in speaker be a replacement for not having a speaker at all? Would that work?
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January 21, 2010 1:52:04 AM

What type of xbox do you have if it is an HDMI compatible one it will work for sure if it is not you will need to purchase a Xbox VGA cable and then the monitor will work with xbox
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January 21, 2010 1:52:51 AM

Aloid said:
What type of xbox do you have if it is an HDMI compatible one it will work for sure if it is not you will need to purchase a Xbox VGA cable and then the monitor will work with xbox



Yes I have HDMI on my xbox.

One question what is the difference between a LCD and HDTV monitor do you know?
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January 21, 2010 1:54:43 AM

Not much i think it is just the HDTV monitor may have a built in tuner so that you can connect cable directly to it other than that they are both full 1080p HD
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January 22, 2010 4:21:07 AM

Hey Admiral

The free offer of the PSU with the HD 5850 is gone, it seem they ran out, should I still buy that card or is $300 still overprice?
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a b U Graphics card
January 22, 2010 10:25:01 AM

$300 is the right price for that card.
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January 23, 2010 3:05:13 AM

Thanks Admiral
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January 27, 2010 7:25:48 PM

Admiral I need a favor from you.

None of the item I order has even ship yet because of all sort of problems so it still on pending. I decided to cancel all my items because I will not be able to receive it on time to get my rebate back, a total of $60 dollars saving. I'm very disappointed with newegg for not even notifying me about it, not even a single email.

With that said do you suggest I still go with that build or should I wait till February where there might be better sales?

And if so can you help me find some parts again? If the 60 dollars saving is no big deal then I would buy the same part again.

It been very disappointing for me so far.

Lastly do you suggest I spent some more money and buy an I7 and a 1336 motherboard?


Thanks
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January 27, 2010 8:16:06 PM

To get a rebate, you usually just have to buy the item while the rebate is available, and then you have about 30 days to actually send in your invoice and UPC code... If you bought the items during the rebate period, you would still be eligible for the rebate.
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January 27, 2010 11:24:21 PM

I can't really see the point of having the 1336 and i7 for gaming, but it is your money. If you're looking for more performance in games, and want to spend a bit more cash, the 5870 would be a better upgrade than the i7 in terms of gaming performance, in my opinion.

We can play the waiting game forever in tech, prices go down because great new pieces of tech come out so quickly. If you can wait, it doesn't hurt to, but you just don't want to end up in a cycle of endless waiting.

Also, I wouldn't fret too much over rebates, I've had my fair share of rebates that I sent in and never got a penny back. But I agree with Restatement that you would still be eligible for the rebate, and if they didn't honor it you could always fight them. But to me it just isn't worth the time.
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January 28, 2010 12:53:58 AM

restatement3dofted said:
To get a rebate, you usually just have to buy the item while the rebate is available, and then you have about 30 days to actually send in your invoice and UPC code... If you bought the items during the rebate period, you would still be eligible for the rebate.



Well the rebate end on the 31st and I need to receives the item before then or else I can't mail it with the UPC code, and processing take 2 days and mailing take two days and I would not be able to make it on time. Losing 60 bucks is a lot.

Do you guys think I should reorder the exact same item again despite not having the rebate with me?
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January 28, 2010 12:55:36 AM

ominous prime said:
I can't really see the point of having the 1336 and i7 for gaming, but it is your money. If you're looking for more performance in games, and want to spend a bit more cash, the 5870 would be a better upgrade than the i7 in terms of gaming performance, in my opinion.

We can play the waiting game forever in tech, prices go down because great new pieces of tech come out so quickly. If you can wait, it doesn't hurt to, but you just don't want to end up in a cycle of endless waiting.

Also, I wouldn't fret too much over rebates, I've had my fair share of rebates that I sent in and never got a penny back. But I agree with Restatement that you would still be eligible for the rebate, and if they didn't honor it you could always fight them. But to me it just isn't worth the time.



Do you think I should stick with my current build, can I do any better for the price or is that a decent build? Are you talking about rebates from neweggs or just in general?

I'm just tire of waiting for one week only to find out my item hasn't even ship out yet due to some issue. Now I just can't wait to play crysis and it taking forever, i'm so exhausted
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January 29, 2010 10:50:14 PM

I would stick with your current build. For the price you'll have an excellent computer. And I am talking about rebates from products ordered on Newegg. The rebate doesn't have much to do with newegg, it will end up going through the company of the said product, and it's up to them as to whether or not they will honor the rebate.

Which item wouldn't ship? Perhaps you could order the bulk from newegg, then get the item that wouldn't ship from another company? If you're tired of waiting, there isn't much point to.

It's really your call about purchasing it now. Perhaps look at this way, is it worth it to you to spend $100 more and enjoy your computer for a month, then go without your new computer for a month to save $100?

Also, I looked at the price it would cost me to build my computer now, and it would be more expensive now, than it was when I ordered the parts. (Mostly because of increased demand of 5850 drove up price, and memory prices have risen as well)
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January 29, 2010 11:25:34 PM

The 5850 is at $290, it's a great card for the price at the moment. It'll handle crysis at 1080p as long as you don't enable AA/AF. I guess you could try hooking up an HDTV to your computer but only if it's 1080p, and even then I wouldn't really recommend it since I've never tried it myself.
IMO you can go ahead and buy the parts right now. If you do so, I'd go with the Corsair 650W PSU for $90 since it only costs $5 more than the OCZ atm. Everything else looks good, if you're patient you'll find the Samsung HDD in stock. They go in and out of stock a few times daily.
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January 29, 2010 11:39:22 PM

Oh, and for the keyboard/mouse. I'm using a $30 Logitech K300. It's a compact keyboard, comparable to that of a laptop. It's got pretty neat backlit media functions (You hold Fn and press the corresponding"f" key to use them). As long as you're used to using keyboards with smaller keys it's great for gaming. The low profile keys give a nice response and I've noticed no problems with ghosting in Farcry and F.E.A.R. so far. It takes some getting used to. The shift key is smaller than usual and the enter key is "L" shaped (backwards), arrow keys are pretty useless since they're so tiny.
For a mouse I'd recommend a logitech G9, $60 on buy.com/zipzoomfly. Or a cheaper sidewinder/g5/MX518
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January 30, 2010 8:07:25 AM

Thanks for the reply.

Yup I did manage to get the Samsung HDD and the mouse I bought is the G500.

I can't run crysis with Full AA?
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January 30, 2010 3:14:23 PM

I prefer the G500 over the G9, bought a lemon of a G9, laser stopped working. If you google it a lot of people have had the same issue. G500 has the newer laser found in the G9x and no issues that I've heard of or had with my G500.

With a 5850 I don't think you'll be able to run full AA/AF either, I don't have Crysis installed anymore or I'd test mine for you. But you can take a look at these benchmarks: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/radeon-hd-5850,2433...
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January 30, 2010 6:57:36 PM

ominous prime said:
I prefer the G500 over the G9, bought a lemon of a G9, laser stopped working. If you google it a lot of people have had the same issue. G500 has the newer laser found in the G9x and no issues that I've heard of or had with my G500.

With a 5850 I don't think you'll be able to run full AA/AF either, I don't have Crysis installed anymore or I'd test mine for you. But you can take a look at these benchmarks: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/radeon-hd-5850,2433...


Wow if I knew that I would have bought a better card. I thought you could have run MAX on Crysis with the old Nvidia 8800GT and 5850 is head and shoulder better than it?

I'm a graphic whore and not running any game on supermax is a disappointment. So does it mean that the only games I can't run on max, does it still look good without AA/AF? Will I be able to run Assassin Creed II, Call of duty 6, Mass Effect 2, Dragon ages, and future games like starcraft II on max?

I'm a little worry now that you show me the benchmark. Someone said this was an excellent build and I would clearly spent a few hundred dollars more if I can run Crysis on Max everything unless it not that big of a deal and it still look great.

And Crysis is a somewhat old games, I'm surprise that my new graphic card isn't quite enough.

Thanks for the benchmark though, and yes I never like the look of the G9. In fact the mouse I been wanting was the G5 because I heard so much good about it and I like the color of that mouse, but since the G500 is its replacement with 10 button control, I think I'll give it a try. When I went to my local best buy the other day I notice that the MX518 feel much better on my hand than the G5, so I think if I ever buy a second mouse it either an MX518 or the Razer Mamba or DeathAdder.

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January 31, 2010 1:59:54 AM

It's poor coding for Crysis really. The game looked amazing on my 5850 when I had it installed, but the gameplay is rather bad. AI is terribly lacking. But to each their own. Anyways, you really shouldn't need more than 2AA at high resolutions. I'd recommend watching http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OLf03IMLsLI as well as http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YM3ieQHRYOc&feature=vide...
It's on AA and AF.

Dragon age, ME2, I can vouch for running at max at 1920x1200 on my rig. MW2 will be very easy to run, MW runs great. (Didn't buy MW2 because of the lack of features)

If you're just looking to max out crysis, you're probably going to end up spending a lot of cash. Perhaps take a look here, quad 5870's v. dual 5970's because that's where you'll need to be looking if you want to "max" Crysis at 1920x1200. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxJyV8zwDqI

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January 31, 2010 4:27:34 AM

Hi! I have one recommendation, and then a question for the pros out there.

I'm saving up for this monitor, i heard it's great for both your pc, and your xbox 360! (the other one 23" mentioned above got reviewed where with the 360 they couldn't hear out of the speakers or attach their other speakers)

my upcoming lcd monitor:

ASUS VW246H Glossy Black 24" 2ms(GTG) HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor
300 cd/m2 ASCR 20000:1 (1000:1) Built-in Speakers - Retail $230

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Also, my question is: if I prefer 1680x1050 for some games, are the new 1920x1080 res monitors going to do that just as well as the native 1680x1050? If so, then you can just play max settings Crysis Warhead on 1680x1050 res on a naturally higher res monitor, and still get great fps and graphics with a 5850 card, am i right?

thanks.
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January 31, 2010 9:39:47 PM

bababablazin said:
Hi! I have one recommendation, and then a question for the pros out there.

I'm saving up for this monitor, i heard it's great for both your pc, and your xbox 360! (the other one 23" mentioned above got reviewed where with the 360 they couldn't hear out of the speakers or attach their other speakers)

my upcoming lcd monitor:

ASUS VW246H Glossy Black 24" 2ms(GTG) HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor
300 cd/m2 ASCR 20000:1 (1000:1) Built-in Speakers - Retail $230

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Also, my question is: if I prefer 1680x1050 for some games, are the new 1920x1080 res monitors going to do that just as well as the native 1680x1050? If so, then you can just play max settings Crysis Warhead on 1680x1050 res on a naturally higher res monitor, and still get great fps and graphics with a 5850 card, am i right?

thanks.


Hey Bababablazin (nice name) that the monitor I bought. The 23 inches was sold out and I got the 24 inches instead. If you want a monitor that is good for gaming you need to get one with 1920 X 1080p (1080p is xbox 360 resolution). I don't know if it better, it really depend on your video card as well but for the 360, I say 1080 is the way to go. Your last question is a good one, someone please answer it.

Also the 23 inches has audio out, and the 24 inches doesn't so I take it that since it not listed that the 24 inches also has audio in which mean you can (hopefully) you can add speaker to it. Also the speaker aren't great but you can still hear sound out of it. I'm planning to buy some logitech speaker but money is still tight.
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