I7 920 Build

I'm getting ready to order the parts for a new computer build. I just wanted to run it past you all since you are obviously quite knowledgeable about this stuff. I did a lot of research but I'm notoriously bad at computer hardware (I'm a developer). Any comments, suggestions or thumbs up would be greatly appreciated.


BUDGET RANGE: Around $2000 (flexible)








ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: Just want something fast and good. At any given time I could be running SQL Server, Oracle, IIS, 11ty billion webpages and 3+ instances of visual studio in addition to left4dead or World of Warcraft.

This is the order to get it up and running. I will be doubling the memory, vid card (crossfire/sli) and getting a large data drive in the next couple weeks. Am I forgetting anything I need to get it running?

CoolerMaster Haf 922 Mid Tower

ASUS P6T Deluxe

I7 920

Corsair 850W

CPU Fan:
Dark Knight

System Drive:
Intel X25 160GB SSD

6GB Corsair Dominator

Video Card:
Sapphire 1GB ATI 5770
17 answers Last reply
More about build
  1. I'd consider a few changes:

    HSF: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus Intel Core i5 & Intel Core i7 compatible RR-B10-212P-G1 120mm "heatpipe direct contact" Long life sleeve CPU Cooler. $30 for one of the top-rated coolers available.

    RAM: G.SKILL PI Series 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL7T-6GBPI - Retail. $179.99. Dominators are overpriced, you can get a cheaper set with faster timings / lower CAS Latency.

    PSU: You may not need 850W unless you'll be crossfiring HD 5970s. Check out CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply. $120 after rebates. Anyone else have thoughts on 750 vs 850 for this rig?

    MoBo: Yours is good, though if you're willing to spend a bit more, you could snag one with USB 3.0, like: ASUS P6X58D Premium LGA 1366 Intel X58 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail. $309.99 with free shipping.

    Overall, looking like a good build! Do you need a 160GB SSD? If not, you could save a bundle by dropping down to an 80GB, but that's up to you.

    I'm sure others will chime in as well, but this should at least give you some options!


    E: GPU: I'd consider moving up to XFX HD-585A-ZNFC Radeon HD 5850 (Cypress Pro) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video Card w/ATI Eyefinity instead of the 5770 if you've got the space in your budget (though the SSD may be keeping you close to your limit). Bit pricier, but you'll get a big jump in performance over the 5770, even if you aren't a serious gamer. This is pretty much your call, though - either will work!
  2. I second all of Restatement's suggestions. And add a couple of other points/changes.

    PSU: 750W should be fine. Might also want to look at Seasonic, Antec Earthwatts, OCZ, PC Power & Cooling and FSP for other quality manufacturers for different prices. In addition, you don't really need a modular unit, as you have a bottom mounted case.

    SSD: I personally don't like recommend SSDs right now. They're freaking expensive and, like all new tech, prone to issues. I don't think they're worth it right now. I would drop it off the build, or at least to a smaller one.

    GPU: If you were to get a smaller SSD, you should have room in your budget for either the 5870 (if you drop to an 80 GB) or a 5970 (if you don't get an SSD). Both of these would give much better gaming performance, and still be in the budget.
  3. One additional thought about SSDs - I didn't put one in my recent build, for exactly the reasons that MadAdmiral mentioned. I'm definitely keeping the possibility in mind as the technology improves and prices become a little more reasonable, but they eat a huge chunk of your budget that could be used to add higher-end parts elsewhere.

    If you're set on an SSD though (some people swear by them/won't build without at around your price range), if you're using it as a boot/application drive, you may not need 160GB. Obviously, this will depend on your own personal needs, but W7 is going to eat about 15-20GB or so. Ideally, you'd like to keep, at minimum, 20-30% of the drive empty, just to keep it happy (and the more open space, the better). Assuming a minimum of 32-40GB left open, are you going to have 110-120GB of applications to install? If you left 80GB open (50% empty), would you have 60GB of applications to install?

    Again, this is mostly your preference, just worth keeping in mind that you're paying a big premium to shorten your computer's boot time from a couple of minutes to ~20-30 seconds, and speed up your apps. For some people, that's a big deal - it all depends on what you want and need. Personally, I'd favor a smaller SSD (and being a little pickier about what apps I install on it) or no SSD, and a more powerful GPU. What can I say, I'm a big fan of shiny things.

    Cheers - whatever path you take, you've got a solid build going!
  4. +1 to both restatement and admiral. The 80gb intel SSDs are the first reasonably priced gen 2 drives to be released imo.

    Newegg is out of the retail models (includes a nice mounting bracket) but have the OEM versions available (the drives are identical).

    retail - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167023&cm_re=intel_80_gb_ssd-_-20-167-023-_-Product

    OEM - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167016&cm_re=intel_80_gb_ssd-_-20-167-016-_-Product

    edit: apparently the OEM ships with some sort of free coolermaster case? Can't confirm.
  5. I'm gonna switch the HSF & memory to what restate recommended. I'm dropping the SSD down to an 80gb drive, and upgrading to the 5850 video card. That still leaves me a lot of budget room for the second 5850 and a large data drive.

    I'll probably order it tomorrow, so if you have any other comments I'm all ears.

    Thanks a ton!
  6. aerathi said:
    I'm gonna switch the HSF & memory to what restate recommended. I'm dropping the SSD down to an 80gb drive, and upgrading to the 5850 video card. That still leaves me a lot of budget room for the second 5850 and a large data drive.

    I'll probably order it tomorrow, so if you have any other comments I'm all ears.

    Thanks a ton!

    You said you don't need "external stuff," but I noticed your list doesn't have an optical drive or OS.

    In case you need them:
    Optical: LG Black 22X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 22X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache IDE 22X DVD±R DVD Burner - OEM - $23.99 + free shipping (newegg's having a sale on their storage-related hardware atm). Cheap drive to get you going if you need it.

    OS: You can snag an OEM copy of Windows 7 for about $105 (home 64) or $140 (pro 64) from NewEgg, or if you're in college (or know someone who is) you can snag a student upgrade of pro (32 or 64) here for $65. You may already have the OS taken care of, but worth mentioning in case it managed to dart off your radar.

    I can't think of anything else - the Hyper 212+ should come with a little tube of thermal paste, so unless you feel like having more just for kicks, you should be OK there.

  7. So I ordered everything above, put it all together. Everything posted and came up so I popped in the windows disk and rebooted to install windows. While it was loading windows I noticed a faint burning smell and everything shut off.

    Anyone have any idea how I can figure out what went wrong?
  8. Have you gone through the New Build Won't Boot Checklist?

    I would check all of your wires to make sure that nothing is pinched. If you smelled something burning, it may be worth looking over all of your parts to see if there are any visible singe marks - that may help you isolate a particular problem.
  9. Yeah I went through it, except it booted fine. I was able to get into the bios, everything was good and then when I started installing windows the smell started before it powered down.

    Now if I try to power it on the fans start to spin for like a fraction of a second and then there's nothing.
  10. I don't know if this will help, but if I unplug the 8 pin power connector from the motherboard I can get it to power on. With that connector plugged in it will not.
  11. So with both the 24-pin and 8-pin plugs attached, it won't do anything, but with only the 24-pin attached, it will power on? It shouldn't boot unless both are connected, what is it doing when you just have the 24-pin attached?
  12. It doesn't boot, but the fans will power on and everything, lights, etc. If I plug the 8 pin connector back in then I cannot get it to power on at all, it just does nothing.
  13. It sounds like something's shorted out. Did you run any wires under the motherboard or anything...?
  14. Negative, I just ran it through the area in the case for it. There's like an area in the case to run cables.
  15. Do you have spare parts (a spare PSU, specifically), or another rig that you could swap into/out of, to see if you get a different result? Or know anyone with a similar computer that you could test with? :sweat:
  16. Negative, I am sad. I have no way to figure out what is wrong with it :/
  17. As much as it sucks, my next step would be to RMA the motherboard through newegg or ASUS (newegg might be faster).

    It sounds like you had a short somewhere, but if you're certain all of the standoffs are properly in place and there are no cables in odd locations there's not much else you can do. I guess it could be the PSU but that is much less likely than the motherboard.

    Keep us updated!
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