Full watercooling

Hey there guys,

I was planning on getting a new computer with watercooling. There's gonna be a 3930k on a asus rampage iv extreme mobo, 32 gigs of ram and 3 gtx 680. The cpu, gpus, mobo and ram will be watercooled.

Shall i go for 2 loops or only one?
What rads do i need?
Also, could you recomand a case?

Thanks a lot!
37 answers Last reply
More about full watercooling
  1. Your first stop is the W/c sticky up the top of the section, this will give you some pointers
    but in short,
    One loop
    rad requirements is based on your heat output, you need to calulate each items Tdp but thats covered in the sticky,
    I'll check back tomorrow though
  2. TDP for you would add up to
    CPU 130 W w/o OC (if you plan to OC bump that up like 20% ish)
    680 195W Each =~600W (again 20% ish for OC)

    I wouldn't bother with cooling the ram, mobo maybe because 2011 mobos get hot I here?

    You're looking at around 750 watts of heat to dissipate pre OC (plus some extra for mobo). The general rule of thumb is 120mm rad space=100 ish watts of heat dissipated so you need around 7-8 120mm worth of rad space pre OC. You'll need a big case to fit the radiators, probably something like a mountain mods case, danger den, xspc h1+, LD PC V8 or something of that ilk. Hope that helps
  3. Well i read the sticky... I calculated the tdp at about 850 so i guess i'll simply round it to 1000 just to give more room for overclocking and future proofing. I've been thinking of deltas of about 1-2-3 *C and very low noise anyway.

    As for the case, I don't really like the ld cooling cases. They are big and, from my point of view, ugly. So I'll go for the Mountain Mods Extended Ascension and maybe replace the top with another plate with no vent holes maybe. I was thinking of engraved plexi.

    Also, the 5.25'' bays are the squares cut out on the front of the case ?

    As for the water blocks. The cpu wb will be an aqua computer cuplex kryos xt silver edition, the mb and gfx will be ekwb nickel plated and the ram will be koolance ram-33. Will one pump be enough or will i have to run two in series? Will there be any corrosion problems?
  4. Ok, to get a 3'c Delta with minimal noise you are going to have to over-rad seriously,
    Motherboard and ram do not 'need' cooling and add restriction to the loop,
    EK Nickel blocks, where do I begin lol,
    they had a plating issue around a year back that caused lots of problems, they since decided that you have to use 'approved' coolants from a list they give you,
    if you run anything else in there like plain distilled water and a silver coil,
    your warranty is null and void,
    I seriously advise finding alternative blocks for the Gpu's
    The ascension looks to have normal drivebays so any 5.25 bits you plan on mounting will be fine
    I you are looking at larger cases, check out the Azza fusion 4000, plenty of radspace in that and looks pretty cool, I'd mod it but thats what I do lol
  5. Well after some thinking i realized that the case that would suit me best would be a custom Extended U2-UFO (3*480 rad on top, 4 fans on face, horizontal mb and 3 fans on the back and acrylic window on left side). I think 3 480 with fans in push-pull wil suffice my needs and they should be mounted on the top of the case with the fans getting air from the outside and the other fans on face and back evacuating the hot air from inside the case. Another idea would be to make my own case (my father has this little factory. He makes furniture but the CNC can cut acrylic and aluminum too). The only problem is that i don't know how to design it so the rads fit.

    As for the gfx wb, another option is the koolance vid-nx680 but i don't know if the 4 gig gtx680 is compatible. I mean, it's the reference design only with some ram modules on the back of the board so i'll have to use the ek backplate anyway.

    As for the motherboard i could use the non-plated version ( http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-283-EK&groupid=962&catid=2190&subcat= ). I hope it's not an infraction to give links to shops.

    I want to cool the mb and ram too because i tend to overclock ram a little too high and the mb gets really hot. Oh, and i don't want that freakin' fan on the mb... It's just added noise.

    Also, will a laing d5 suffice or shall i put 2 in series?
  6. nope, links are fine dude, I'm off to my nughtshift now but i'll read this tomorrow when i'm home
  7. You've got a pretty big loop going with 3 gpus, a cpu and mobo/ram. This is one of those rare occassions on this forum where two pumps/loops is a serious consideration. I'd probably put the CPU and mobo/ram blocks in one loop and the gpus alone in the second loop.

    Yes I believe your card will be just fine, whenever you aren't sure just go to www.coolingconfigurator.com. It's ek's compatibilty website, but it'll tell you if it's reference design and from there you'll know if you can get a block for it or not.

    Like moto said, don't go with EK's nickel-plated line. I had two GTX 580 nickel blocks and a supreme hf block nickel and both gpu blocks have corrosion issues and I'm going through a somewhat lengthy (and incredibly retarded) rma process for them.

    As for what blocks to choose for your GPUs, they all work well. Just remember you aren't going to be able to see the front of them, only the side, or in your case possibly just the back with the horizontal mount. FWIW EVGA, Heatkiller, XSPC and Aquagrafx all have backplates for their blocks, so pick from those which ones you'd like. I wouldn't reccomend the EVGA waterblock, however, because I hear it's more restrictive and doesn't use as much copper as other blocks (it's lighter).

    Hope this helps
  8. Ok, so you are suggesting i use two loops? 3 gpus with 2 480s and cpu with mobo and ram with one 480? I want extreme cooling and low noise. Will these be enough then?
  9. Don't WC RAM or MB...especially RAM. There is no benefit.
  10. Ok. Let's say i'll ditch the whole ram wc idea. I'll get some more potent radiators for the chips and won't wc them. But i would still need 2 loops right?
  11. I think you need two loops yes. Having a total of 5 blocks (including the ram if you end up with it) on a single loop is very restrictive.
  12. Neah... No ram. Gonna get 64 gigs of corsair vegeance 1866mhz and leave them as they are. As for the blocks: gfx(3), cpu(1), mb(2 (southbrigde and vrm) ). Also, the ram would have been 8 wb (each dimm had one waterblock, they were not coupled).

    So it shall be 2 loops. One for the gfx and one for cpu and mb. What radiator should i use on each loop? I repeat, 2-3*C delta and silent operation.
  13. 2-3 delta and silent operation is a tall order lol. But you said you're going with 480mm rads right? Then I'd put 2 of them on the GPU loop and the other on the CPU/mobo. I'd go for alphacool nexxxos UT60s all around.

    As for fans if you have no budget I think the quietest high cfm fans would be noctuas? You could also probably get away with (given your large amoutn of rad space) only have push fans on all the rads to keep the noise down. If it turns out they're not giving you enough cooling to reach your 2-3 delta then get pull fans as well.
  14. I could go even 560. It's not a problem. I'll just design my own case. I could even go 3 560 on gpu, one or two (i think two is overkill) on cpu and mobo.
    I think that the be quiet! fans are ok ( http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-024-BQ&groupid=701&catid=2331&subcat=1816 )
    They have acceptable cfm, very low noise, but they do not have much pressure. Maybe if i put them in push pull?
  15. If you're looking that route I'd go for fractal design R2s. I actually own a whole bunch from my previous build and they are literally inaudible and push a decent amount of air. Not as much as GTs or Noctuas or those ilk, but much quieter.


    You won't need to go 560 lol. A 480mm will give you around 450 watts of heat dissipation, so 2 of those is 900 watts for what 700 watts on the gpu loop? You'll be fine with those
  16. Btw: I was looking for fittings. I will be using tygon tubing. Should i get some special fitting or any will do ? Oh, and i saw many fittings are silverish. I mean they are surely nickel plated and not silver plated, but wouldn't nickel fittings corrode eventually? Would it be a better ideea to go for plastic barbs?
  17. Or maybe copper barbs?
  18. Fittings I personally go with Bitspower. They're pricier than most but you get what you pay for. People say monsoon fittings are also pretty good. I think compression fittings are better than barbs, they may be pricier but they look awesome.
  19. Can i use any kind of compression fittings with tygon tubing?
  20. Yes, but you must make sure both measurements are correct for your tubing, one is the barb itself, the other is the internal diameter of the collar,
  21. Hey, i was thinking. What about getting three 560s for gfx and one 560 for cpu and mb and leaving the fanless? Or do i still need like 14db fans that push 30cfm?
  22. Low RPM fans!
  23. Ok. I just realized that the convection isn't enough especially for radiators like the phobya g-charge 560 that i think i'll be using. <<BRAIN-FART>>.
    Anyway, i have this crazy idea. I was thinking that the black tygon tubing doesn't look very nice. What about sleeving it? Has anyone done it?
  24. I've pondered sleeving tubing before,
    its irrelevant to me as you can't see any tubing on my build but I think its very do-able.
    Yes you can massively over-rad and have very slow fans on them, and that will give you a very quiet rig, the issue you may have there is that the ambient temperature actually warms the water in the loop, if you whack the fans up a bit you will get a sub-ambient delta which is very nice :P
    So its better to have fans and not use them/use them minimally than need them and not have them
  25. You can't have sub-ambient delta. Second law of thermodynamics says that the heat transfer is made from the matter with higher temperature to the matter with lower temperature. Therefore, if you have sub-ambient temperatures in the loop, the hotter matter, the air releases heat to the cooler matter, the radiator, which in turn releases it to the watter in the loop. This is the principle on water- and air-cooling. In air-cooling, the equivalent for the water is the heat pipe which transfers the heat to the fins where it is transfered to air.
  26. Goign back to the idea of sleeved tubing, why? Is there some specific color/pattern you want or what are you thinking?
  27. ** the issue you may have there is that the ambient temperature actually warms the water in the loop,
    however if you whack the fans up a bit you will get a sub-ambient delta which is very nice **
    I covered the law loosely in the first half of my statement, and I often have water temps 2'c below room temp so I'm pretty sure when I suggest it, that it works :)
    Large loop, over-radded=excellent cooling, even before I add a water chiller into the mix
  28. The law applies even if you have one thousand square kilometers worth of rad with any kind of wind blowing over them. Sub-ambient is still not possible without peltier elements or water chillers.

    Anyway, yes, i want my computer to be green and orange (though the mobo has red accents). I was thinking about sleeving the tubing with green sleeve and tightening the sleeve with orange shrinking tube. I am also gonna get some sleeved cable extenders but i don't know that color should they be? orange or green. If it's green, well the tubing is green. If orange, the mobo has many red accents. Although the vast majority of the board will be covered so i think i'll go for green. As the sleeve is uv reactive (at least on the tubing), i'll get some uv cathodes and some green LEDs for the reservoir.
    Anyway, any help is appreciated.
  29. Oh, and the case will be CM Storm Stryker. The rads will be mounted at 5 cm from the right panel.
  30. Green and orange should be interesting, I'm intrigued :)
    maybe wait till you have the mobo to hand and see which is the dominant colour up close and decide the sleeving accordingly,
    although with it being a white case its going to be a visual balancing act hehe
    Are you painting the rads to match?
  31. The mobo will be an Asus Rampage IV Extreme.
    I am not painting the rads, nor will i be painting the Noctua nf-p12 fans. I don't find it worth it. I mean, painting the rads is a hell of a job as i don't wanna touch the fins, and the fans, well it's simply not worth dissembling then to paint and putting them back together because i'll never get the same shade of white as the case is. Also, the case has black elements so they'll go with the rad.
  32. Another question. I found a 3/4 in sleeve which will presumably fit 3/4 in OD tygon tubing. Only that the tygon tubing is 19.1 mm and the sleeve is 18mm. (http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p8373_mod-smart-Flex-Sleeve-18mm--3-4---UV-green-1m.html)
    Will it fit or do i have to search for something else?
    Also, what tim do you recomend?
  33. It will stretch to fit the tubing snugly,
    I don't have a favourite paste, theres a sticky on one of the sections for various thermal pastes comparing a few of the most popular ones but I just use some silver spire paste I have had for a couple of years now, it does me ok :)
  34. Tough decision. The mobo has 16x 16x 8x pcie 3. I originally thought of getting 3 gtx680s (4gb edition) in sli. Will the 8x pcie port limit one of the gtx680 ? Or should i go for only two gtx 680 4gb ?
  35. Another option would be getting another mobo. The ASRock X79 Extreme11 seems like a very good one. The only problem is that there is no wb for it. And yes, i want to watercool it especially because this particular mobo has the chips for the pci lanes which get pretty hot.
  36. So? Any thoughts? I don't have the system so changes are easy to make.
  37. I thought someone more knowledgable would've responded by now, all I can say is that board would probably run all three cards at x8 speed, no great loss from X16 but I reckon you would prefer a true X16 set up, you'll have to find a board that doe that or settle for three x8 lanes
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