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Configuration/Component Opinion

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October 4, 2012 4:32:29 AM

Ok so I've played with this idea for a while...water cooling my PC. Since upgrading my entire build (e.g. Core 2 Duo -> i7-3770k) and getting a worthy case (HAF XM), I am ready to to engage in the world of water cooling. I thought about Corsair H100, but decided no because I wanted to build my own. Some kits are cheaper but not as customized as I'd like (and XSPC's kits require 5.25 bays...of which I only have 1 to spare thanks to my fan controller).

So here is what I'd like to do.... CPU cooling, with possibly upgrading to GPU (MSI HD6950 Twin Frozr III) cooling later. Would like to do a dual 140mm (280) radiator in push/pull with radiator + fans under case top with second set of 140mml fans on top of case top. Inline/cylindrical reservoir with a really good water pump (either independent or installed with reservoir). 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD tubing. Blue coolant or water/dye.

More on case innards...2 SSD drives, 4 HD (RAID 5 + 1 scratch), 1 Blu-Ray writer, NZXT Sentry LX fan controller, single GPU (at the moment), Ultra X4 1200w PSU.

Here's what I was think of for parts/pieces:

- EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel (EK-Supremacy - Nickel)
- PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 3/8"ID 1/2" OD with 1/16" Wall - Clear
- Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 Inline Reservoir - Clear (BP-WTZM150AC-CL)
- Black Ice GT Stealth 280 Radiator - Black
- Swiftech MCP655-B 12v Water Pump w/ 3/8" Conversion Kit (317 GPH)
- PrimoChill ICE Non-Conductive Liquid Cooling Fluid (32 oz.) - Invisible Blue
- BGears B-Blaster 140mm x 25mm 1800RPM High Speed Fan [x 4 for radiator config.]
- and appropriate 3/8x1/2 compression fittings.


Comes to about $400 give or take. Is this a good build for what I have and what I'd like to do?

Appreciate all thoughts, opinions and recommendations :hello: 

Thanks!!!!
a c 150 K Overclocking
October 4, 2012 4:47:54 AM

Do not get coolant!

Distilled water and a kill coil is a much better choice.

Coolant can clog up your blocks and ruin your entire loop!
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October 4, 2012 4:52:04 AM

I thought about that. But was reading that EK's nickel block (hmm.. sounds like a good rock band) and silver was a no-no. Any cheaper alternatives at the same performance of EK Supremacy? Maybe their plexi version?
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a c 150 K Overclocking
October 4, 2012 4:56:07 AM

Danger Den DD-M6.

You can as well use PTNuke.
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Best solution

a b K Overclocking
October 4, 2012 6:31:02 AM

A) No EK Nickel plated products. Period. If you like their stuff get the copper based. They've had horrible issues with corrosion in the past and I don't think the new stuff has been on the market long enough to tell if it's been resolved.

B) NO COOLANT. Unless you're using Mayhem's X1 or Pastel. I'm using Pastel Mint Green in my loop and it looks awesome and tests from all sites I've seen so far have given it great reviews and it doesn't clog up your loop like other coolants.

C) Personal opinion don't get HWLabs rads, I think they're way overpriced for the performance you get. If you need a slim radiator go for the Alphacool Nexxxos ST series or XSPC EX series or the Swiftech ones (MCR or something). All of them are cheaper and will offer comparable if not better performance in some cases.

D) No primochill clear tubing, they're probably one of the biggest culprits with plasticizer leeching. Go for Durelene or Masterkleer, they don't seem to have as bad an issue (or any from some places I've read) and they're cheaper to boot
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a c 325 K Overclocking
October 4, 2012 1:17:43 PM

Feser and Tygon make some great tubing as well, but it's a bit more costly.
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October 4, 2012 3:53:52 PM

What's the thoughts on Swiftech Apogee Drive II Pump & CPU Waterblock Combo?
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a c 150 K Overclocking
October 4, 2012 3:59:53 PM

rubix_1011 said:
Feser and Tygon make some great tubing as well, but it's a bit more costly.

Aren't there issues with Tygon and plasticizer leeching?
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October 4, 2012 6:58:41 PM

Okay so I updated my buy list as follows:

- Swiftech Apogee Drive II Pump & CPU Waterblock Combo - Sockets 1155/1366
- Swiftech MCRx40 "Quiet Power" Dual 140mm Radiator - Black (MCR240-QP)
- Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 Inline Reservoir - Clear
- Feser Tube Active UV Hose - 3/8" ID (1/2"OD) Anti-Kink Tubing - Clear / UV Blue
- IandH Silver KillCoils - Antimicrobial .999 Fine Silver Tubing / Reservoir Strip
- Bitspower Ultimate G 1/4 Thread 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD Compression Fitting
- BGears B-Blaster 140mm x 25mm 1800RPM High Speed Fan

I'm going with the distilled water for now. I was going to go with Mayhems stuff but it'll take a while to cross the pond. But for an initial start, I have to concluded pure dihydrogen monoxide is the way to go. Also lowered my overall price by $40.

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October 4, 2012 7:22:44 PM

Best answer selected by lawsonj65.
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a c 325 K Overclocking
October 5, 2012 12:47:15 AM

amuffin said:
Aren't there issues with Tygon and plasticizer leeching?



It's possible and I've heard similar reports, but it really depends on your personal acceptance of the look- it doesn't cause performance issues. Clear can be a nuisance, but darker colors doesn't seem to make a lot of difference from an external view.
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a c 150 K Overclocking
October 5, 2012 12:52:39 AM

rubix_1011 said:
It's possible and I've heard similar reports, but it really depends on your personal acceptance of the look- it doesn't cause performance issues. Clear can be a nuisance, but darker colors doesn't seem to make a lot of difference from an external view.

Ah I see, my tubing now has gotten cloudy too :p  This is after 4 months of use! Pretty good for cheapo $7 hardware tubing. :sarcastic: 
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October 5, 2012 1:58:54 AM

I think I was reading over at the OC's site the plasticizer issue has gone on for at least 150 pages since January. Just seems so abundant of a problem, no tube is safe. Might as well blow my own glass into the shape I need.
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a c 325 K Overclocking
October 5, 2012 5:55:08 PM

I'm in that thread as well, linking to a test I did here on Tom's. It's around here somewhere and I was testing the cloudiness of tubing in relation of a kill coil and an electromagnetic field like a pump or power supply. Any time the kill coil was in the loop, the cloudiness was significantly more noticeable, regardless of location. I used cheap, hardware store vinyl tubing, a kill coil (or not), and plain distilled water with no additives.
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