Sign in with
Sign up | Sign in
Your question

Asus P7P55D-Pro i5-760 4.0Ghz+ OC, 1600mhz RAM with 200BCLK

Last response: in Overclocking
Share
October 17, 2012 9:35:25 AM

Hai again ^^ So, my old OC setting worked well for like 2 years: ( http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/279858-11-asus-p7p5... ). But now I'm seeing that my CPU often runs constant on 100% in both the task manager and in Speedfan with actually all cores at max. (I play in window mode). Games like Battlefield 3, Skyrim, Guildwars 2 and Sleeping dogs often run my CPU up to 100%. And not for a brief time but for like a minute or so. Which makes it kind'a boring when seeing the FPS drop when my GPU cards running at 50-70%. So I think ''bottleneck'' maybe.

So now I want to drive my cpu up a bit to give more room to the GPU's. First I'm putting it close to my old setting and will then increase the multiplier by 1. This is what I did:

My settings:

CPU: Intel Core i5-760 @ 2.80 ~ 3.33Ghz (4.0Ghz OC now, see below)
-CPU Cooler: CORSAIR COOLING HYDRO H80 (Water/Oiled cooled)
RAM: 16GB Corsair Vengeance 1.5v, 1600mhz, (8-8-8-24-2N....)
GPU: 2x GTX460 OC ~715mhz, 1800mhz, 1430mhz
MOBO: Asus P7P55D-PRO
---

* Go into AI Tweaker and change:

1. AI Overclock Tuner = [X.M.P]
2. eXtreme Memory Profile = [Profile #1]
3. CPU ratio setting = [20.0]
4. Intel(R) SpeedStep(TM) Tech = [Disabled]
5. Xtreme Phase Full Power Mode = [Enabled]
6. BCLK Freq. = [200] (200*20=4.0Ghz)
7. DRAM Freq. = [DDR3-1600Mhz] (Multiplier is x8. 8*200mhz=1600mhz)
8. QPI Freq. = [6407mhz] (Lowest QPI I could chose)
9. Asus/3rd party UI... = [Asus...]

10. OC Tuner = [Good Performance] (I don't know what this does, I think it's for a 3rd party program!?)
---

* Then we have Voltage which I had to change some again, but just a little :) 

1. CPU Voltage Mode = Manual
---Fixed Voltage = [1.25000] (Which gives me 1.26v in HW monitor and 1.256v in CPU-Z and 1.256v in BIOS. Thanks to LLC activated it doesn't drop or fluctuate)
2. IMC Voltage (VTT) = [1.13125]. Which also is 0.368v below RAM voltage, max 0.5v diff. I think it's said!)
3. DRAM Voltage = [1.5000] (Same as on my Sticks! Bios gave it 1.543v before)
4. CPU PLL Voltage = [Manual] / [1.900] (+0.100)
5. PCH Voltage = [Manual] / [1.150] (+0.100)
6. DRAM Data REF Voltage on CHA = [Auto]
7. DRAM Data REF Voltage on CHB = [Auto]
--------------------------------------------------------------
8. Load-Line Calibration = [Enabled] (Had it on auto before and suspect it was ''enabled'' when I increased the BCLK over 160mhz anyway)
9. CPU Spread Spectrum = [Disable] (Disable it might enhance OC ability)
10. PCIE Spread Spectrum = [DIsable] (Disable it might enhance OC ability) ''Just for GPU OC''
---

* Advanced Settings, this is what I got here:

1. CPU Ratio Setting = [20.0]
2. C1E Support = [Disabled]
3. Hardware Prefetcher = [Enabled]
4. Adjacent Cache Line prefetch = [Enabled]
5. MAX CPUID Value Limit = [Disabled]
6. Intel Virtual. Tech = [Enabled]
7. CPU TM unction = [Enabled]
8. Execute-Disable Bit cap. = [Enabled]
9. Active CPU Cores = [ALL] :p 
10. A20M = [Disabled]
11. Intel SpeedStep Tech = [Disabled]
12. Intel C-STATE Tech = [Disabled]
---

* BIOS Hardware Monitor:

CPU Temperature(PECI) = 40.5*C/104.5*F
MB Temperature = 29*C/84*F

CPU Voltage = 1.25000v
3.3v Voltage = 3.408v
5v Voltage = 5.160v
12v Voltage = 12.376v
---

* Stress test result: Done a soft test, hard test is pending ^^

Prime95 = 1h test on custom options:

Number of torture test threads to run = 4
Min FFT size (in k) = 4096. Max FFT size (in k) = 4096
[ ] Run FFTs in place. Memory to use (in MB) = 4096
CPU Core Temperature in Speedfan & HW monitor: 63, 64, 62, 63*C. Max peak: 65-67*C
-

Intel Burn Test:

Times to run = 30
Stress Level = Very High (4096MB)
Threads = ALL
CPU Core Temperature in Speedfan & HW monitor: 64, 66, 62, 65*C. Max peak: 68-70*C
---

I am wondering how high I can go without raising IMC, and CPU volt further. I think I'm gonna choke it eventually :p 
October 18, 2012 9:01:38 AM

what is your PSU ??
October 19, 2012 10:33:28 AM

akshayghai29785 said:
what is your PSU ??


My PSU is kind'a overkill but I plan to take it with me to my next build... sorry I didn't put that in the discription!

PSU: Silverstone Strider 1000w Gold certificated. (Model number: SST-ST1000-G) in case you want to google it :3 Costed me 1400SEK = 187USD = 145Euro
December 13, 2013 12:32:47 PM

How will this fare with a 600 psu? I realize this is possibly a really old post but I might buy one of these systems used and am interested to see what I could get out of it.
December 13, 2013 1:57:01 PM

Quote:
How will this fare with a 600 psu? I realize this is possibly a really old post but I might buy one of these systems used and am interested to see what I could get out of it.


Ehh... depends on the PSU and hardware you're using. I guess you'll have to make sure you have enough amps for all your parts, CPU, GPU mainly, if you're gonna SLI/Crossfire etc... You have to measure your wattage/amp output yourself before buying. And make sure you buy a PSU that's 80+ certificated. Bronze or better to make sure you get enough juice. See more here on that one: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus

Good luck with your building :3
January 1, 2014 5:04:22 AM

Wolfspawn89 said:
Quote:
How will this fare with a 600 psu? I realize this is possibly a really old post but I might buy one of these systems used and am interested to see what I could get out of it.


Ehh... depends on the PSU and hardware you're using. I guess you'll have to make sure you have enough amps for all your parts, CPU, GPU mainly, if you're gonna SLI/Crossfire etc... You have to measure your wattage/amp output yourself before buying. And make sure you buy a PSU that's 80+ certificated. Bronze or better to make sure you get enough juice. See more here on that one: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus

Good luck with your building :3


Hey, and thanks for the quick response! I don't run SLI, and it seems my PSU is 80+ bronze certified which seemed to be a good thing. :)  I was thinking I really don't need 4ghz on it, but I would like somewhere along 3.3-3.5. My problem is I've never done this before and I don't even know what the settings mean and how they affect the components. I read people settings the ram speed too to over 2k, is that separate from the cpu speed or will I have to oc my whole system in order to oc my cpu? I'm looking at about 20% overclock I guess? If you are willing to help I could post the rest of my specs?

Edit: Actually I tried these exact settings, and my computer crashes before windows even loads. So I toyed around with the other spec that you linked to, and just set the multiplier to 22 instead of 20, with fixed voltage 1.15 and IMC voltage (I think) at 1.250, and I am currently at 3.5 ghz.

I tried altering the BCLK to get a little more juice, but I think I made a mess with the DRAM frequency being automated and me having no clue whatsoever how to do it manually with all the CLK's and whatnot of the RAM frequencies. Basically the only things I tried changing were the fixed voltage and IMC voltage along with multiplier/BLCK, as well as keeping the automated ram frequency around 1.6ghz. I am not sure where to be at with the voltages though, is there a danger in setting them a tad too high? How much do I need to increase by changing the BLCK? I understand that is the base frequency of the motherboard 'cause it alters everything, and it seems as soon as I change that I make my system unstable. Also the QPI seems to work on "Auto," is it worthwhile keeping it there? Or should I manually select the lowest option instead?

Sorry if I have a lot of questions here, I just want my system powerfully stable. :) 

Thanks in advance.
January 2, 2014 8:15:58 AM


Quote:
Hey, and thanks for the quick response! I don't run SLI, and it seems my PSU is 80+ bronze certified which seemed to be a good thing. :)  I was thinking I really don't need 4ghz on it, but I would like somewhere along 3.3-3.5. My problem is I've never done this before and I don't even know what the settings mean and how they affect the components. I read people settings the ram speed too to over 2k, is that separate from the cpu speed or will I have to oc my whole system in order to oc my cpu? I'm looking at about 20% overclock I guess? If you are willing to help I could post the rest of my specs?

Edit: Actually I tried these exact settings, and my computer crashes before windows even loads. So I toyed around with the other spec that you linked to, and just set the multiplier to 22 instead of 20, with fixed voltage 1.15 and IMC voltage (I think) at 1.250, and I am currently at 3.5 ghz.

I tried altering the BCLK to get a little more juice, but I think I made a mess with the DRAM frequency being automated and me having no clue whatsoever how to do it manually with all the CLK's and whatnot of the RAM frequencies. Basically the only things I tried changing were the fixed voltage and IMC voltage along with multiplier/BLCK, as well as keeping the automated ram frequency around 1.6ghz. I am not sure where to be at with the voltages though, is there a danger in setting them a tad too high? How much do I need to increase by changing the BLCK? I understand that is the base frequency of the motherboard 'cause it alters everything, and it seems as soon as I change that I make my system unstable. Also the QPI seems to work on "Auto," is it worthwhile keeping it there? Or should I manually select the lowest option instead?

Sorry if I have a lot of questions here, I just want my system powerfully stable. :) 

Thanks in advance.


Well first, your i5-760 has a turbo of 3.33Ghz. And I don't know exactly what parts you have, my mobo is pretty strong for OC'ing. and the most important rule is that you shouldn't be able to physically damage your computer as long as you DO NOT increase the voltage to much. Always start low. And this is what I started doing when testing:

Tun off all turbo, C-states etc. Set CPU at your max multi. Mine's like 20. as 21-24 is turbo. Then set BCLK at 133mhz. Your RAM multi at x10 multi (if you have 1600mhz RAM). with Xtreme Mem profile on or whatever you have enabled. Like mine at the top of this page. Then CPU voltage at 1.15 manual. With everything else on auto.

Then turn BCLK to 160mhz if you can. This will make your 1600mhz RAM run at 1600mhz and your CPU should be at 3200mhz if your multi is at x20 like mine. Now after this you'll need to lower the RAM multi as you go above 160mhz BCLK. Set the RAM multi to x8.

Then manually set the VRAM voltage at 1.5-1.64. Dependent on what your manufacturer says. You could in theory follow my CPU OC sheet above with all the ''manual'' options I've set except for the CPU voltage.

Next step is to increase the BCLK and CPU voltage to a stable level. Say next step is to get to 180BCLK without crashes into the system with like 10mhz test each time. So increase with 10mhz and test it in windows with prime95 or IBT for 20 minutes. If you manage to get to 180BCLK your RAM will be at 1440mhz and your CPU at 3.6Ghz.

After this, some fine tuning with the CPU PLL, PCH voltage needs to be adjusted. I increased mine a little as you can see.

My goal is to get as high OC as possible below the original Voltage value, which is 1.28v. I'm now on 1.25v at 4Ghz. And to little voltage won't harm the CPU but will stall it, like on a car with a to high gear up for a hill. It'll stall and the engine die. Just start it up again and try again :) 

Be careful with temps and voltage as you go though ^^
January 2, 2014 9:38:14 AM

Wolfspawn89 said:

Quote:
Hey, and thanks ...


Well first, your i5-760 has a turbo of 3.33Ghz. And I don't know exactly what parts you have, my mobo is pretty strong for OC'ing. and the most important rule is that you shouldn't be able to physically damage your computer as long as you DO NOT increase the voltage to much. Always start low. And this is what I started doing when testing:

Tun off all turbo, C-states etc. Set CPU at your max multi. Mine's like 20. as 21-24 is turbo. Then set BCLK at 133mhz. Your RAM multi at x10 multi (if you have 1600mhz RAM). with Xtreme Mem profile on or whatever you have enabled. Like mine at the top of this page. Then CPU voltage at 1.15 manual. With everything else on auto.

Then turn BCLK to 160mhz if you can. This will make your 1600mhz RAM run at 1600mhz and your CPU should be at 3200mhz if your multi is at x20 like mine. Now after this you'll need to lower the RAM multi as you go above 160mhz BCLK. Set the RAM multi to x8.

Then manually set the VRAM voltage at 1.5-1.64. Dependent on what your manufacturer says. You could in theory follow my CPU OC sheet above with all the ''manual'' options I've set except for the CPU voltage.

Next step is to increase the BCLK and CPU voltage to a stable level. Say next step is to get to 180BCLK without crashes into the system with like 10mhz test each time. So increase with 10mhz and test it in windows with prime95 or IBT for 20 minutes. If you manage to get to 180BCLK your RAM will be at 1440mhz and your CPU at 3.6Ghz.

After this, some fine tuning with the CPU PLL, PCH voltage needs to be adjusted. I increased mine a little as you can see.

My goal is to get as high OC as possible below the original Voltage value, which is 1.28v. I'm now on 1.25v at 4Ghz. And to little voltage won't harm the CPU but will stall it, like on a car with a to high gear up for a hill. It'll stall and the engine die. Just start it up again and try again :) 

Be careful with temps and voltage as you go though ^^




My mobo is the same as yours, maybe without the pro function. It's P7P55D, so essentially we have the same setup, which is why I found your post in the first place. What I've done so far is just go with everything you wrote when you kept you wrote here, and then increased the multiplier to 22 to make it run at 3.5 ghz. The BCLK is at 160 and that works fine. The only thing I changed was to run the fixed voltage at 1.25, and the IMC just below, don't remember how much to be honest. But I think I may be stressing the BCLK a bit much just at the start, 'cause I set it at like 180 or something with the same voltages and I crash before windows has even loaded. But maybe that means I have too low voltages going on?

I would like to push it to somewhere around 3.6-3.8 as optimal 'cause at the moment I'm running at the most 60% celsius and I figured I can squeeze a bit more out of it.

Here are my specs:
Intel Core I5 760 2.80GHZ
Noctua NH-U12P
Cooler Master Silent Pro ATX12V 2.3 600W
Asus P7P55D - ATX

Also I am wondering when it comes to the RAM. If it runs lower than 1600mhz while I overclock that seems to be ok, but how exactly do I set it up after to hit the 1600 mark again with BLCK being uneven as it is? The best way to go about it when oc'ing the processor seems to be to put BLCK at 200 and then just use 18-19x multiplier and just get the voltages right? That way the RAM sits at exactly 1600 too? Thanks for helping out. :) 

Edit: I succumbed to the temptation and got myself a MSI Z87-GD65 with a i5 4670k processor which is arriving tomorrow, so I won't be needing to overclock this anymore. :)  Thank you for all the help!
January 9, 2014 4:33:08 AM


Quote:

My mobo is the same as yours, maybe without the pro function. It's P7P55D, so essentially we have the same setup, which is why I found your post in the first place. What I've done so far is just go with everything you wrote when you kept you wrote here, and then increased the multiplier to 22 to make it run at 3.5 ghz. The BCLK is at 160 and that works fine. The only thing I changed was to run the fixed voltage at 1.25, and the IMC just below, don't remember how much to be honest. But I think I may be stressing the BCLK a bit much just at the start, 'cause I set it at like 180 or something with the same voltages and I crash before windows has even loaded. But maybe that means I have too low voltages going on?

I would like to push it to somewhere around 3.6-3.8 as optimal 'cause at the moment I'm running at the most 60% celsius and I figured I can squeeze a bit more out of it.

Here are my specs:
Intel Core I5 760 2.80GHZ
Noctua NH-U12P
Cooler Master Silent Pro ATX12V 2.3 600W
Asus P7P55D - ATX

Also I am wondering when it comes to the RAM. If it runs lower than 1600mhz while I overclock that seems to be ok, but how exactly do I set it up after to hit the 1600 mark again with BLCK being uneven as it is? The best way to go about it when oc'ing the processor seems to be to put BLCK at 200 and then just use 18-19x multiplier and just get the voltages right? That way the RAM sits at exactly 1600 too? Thanks for helping out. :) 

Edit: I succumbed to the temptation and got myself a MSI Z87-GD65 with a i5 4670k processor which is arriving tomorrow, so I won't be needing to overclock this anymore. :)  Thank you for all the help!


That's a nice mobo, but why on earth buy that CPU?! I give you it's super easy to OC, should have lower temps and wattage output but also 2mb lower cache value!! If it had HT tech in it, it would have been ok cause that speeds up multitasking shit quite good :p  Which is why I'll be getting an i7-4820K Next time.

But that 4670K CPU should be hitting 4.5Ghz below the origin voltage threshold. If I had one I would be disappointed if I didn't get to 5.2Ghz with it at 1.28-1.30v. But remember to NEVER EVER increase the BCLK on a 1155 mobo over the 104mhz. I'm not very into the 1155 systems but I think the BCLK is linked to everything on 1155 mobos, including HDD's & PCI. So just leave that at 100mhz and tweak the rest :) 
March 22, 2014 9:42:56 PM

I also went from p55 i5 to 4670k am aware it has lower l3 cache but its still noticebly faster on clock for clock performance so easily makes up for it.
March 24, 2014 2:29:40 AM

chrysalis said:
I also went from p55 i5 to 4670k am aware it has lower l3 cache but its still noticebly faster on clock for clock performance so easily makes up for it.


It's also a newer CPU so the new tech in it makes up for a little to :)  What's your current clock rate you're running at? Assuming you're pushing over 4Ghz at least! :p 

I'm now waiting to buy me a 2011 system with the new Haswell-E processors! Getting me some high speed HT with that mother will surely take off some load from work and games >:3


March 24, 2014 11:40:58 AM

When I made the post I was running at stock, still felt faster than my i5 750 was overclocked and benchmarked way faster.

Now its at 4.3ghz with 1.15v turbo voltage. Temps lower than i5 750 stock temps.

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-1874926/4670k-...

The alternative was a ivybridge-e, one of those which has extra pci-e lanes and l3 cache +ht, but the sweetest of all vt-d. However I am happy with what I got, wasnt aware of upcoming haswell-e, of course if always hold off because something better is coming then never upgrade. Plus given haswell-e is ddr4 I am not sure if I would have justified the cost as this upgrade I used my existing ram.

Also my old board I think was screwing my ssd queue depth performance, it was sucking at high queue depth tests, never found reason why, popped the ssd on this board and problem magically fixed. Still using same msahci drivers.

Am glad I preloaded all the drivers on to a usb stick, unlike the p55, when you first install win7 on this thing its vga mode, no ethernet etc. all drivers missing :) 
March 27, 2014 5:49:02 AM



Now its at 4.3ghz with 1.15v turbo voltage. Temps lower than i5 750 stock temps.

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-1874926/4670k-...

The alternative was a ivybridge-e, one of those which has extra pci-e lanes and l3 cache +ht, but the sweetest of all vt-d. However I am happy with what I got, wasnt aware of upcoming haswell-e, of course if always hold off because something better is coming then never upgrade. Plus given haswell-e is ddr4 I am not sure if I would have justified the cost as this upgrade I used my existing ram.

Also my old board I think was screwing my ssd queue depth performance, it was sucking at high queue depth tests, never found reason why, popped the ssd on this board and problem magically fixed. Still using same msahci drivers.

Am glad I preloaded all the drivers on to a usb stick, unlike the p55, when you first install win7 on this thing its vga mode, no ethernet etc. all drivers missing :) said:


Now its at 4.3ghz with 1.15v turbo voltage. Temps lower than i5 750 stock temps.

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-1874926/4670k-...

The alternative was a ivybridge-e, one of those which has extra pci-e lanes and l3 cache +ht, but the sweetest of all vt-d. However I am happy with what I got, wasnt aware of upcoming haswell-e, of course if always hold off because something better is coming then never upgrade. Plus given haswell-e is ddr4 I am not sure if I would have justified the cost as this upgrade I used my existing ram.

Also my old board I think was screwing my ssd queue depth performance, it was sucking at high queue depth tests, never found reason why, popped the ssd on this board and problem magically fixed. Still using same msahci drivers.

Am glad I preloaded all the drivers on to a usb stick, unlike the p55, when you first install win7 on this thing its vga mode, no ethernet etc. all drivers missing :) 


Wow that's a pretty neat OC for tha low voltage. Try and take it to 5Ghz Below 1.28v :p  My goal with my i5-760 is 4.2Ghz below 1.28v and 4.4Ghz below 1.33v ^^ But that's crazy max for that chip!

March 27, 2014 5:59:22 PM

Thanks for confirming is a good O/C

However I am on air cooling and when I decided to run prime95 it did goto about 60-65C so I dont think is much room to overclock more on existing cooling, but normal high cpu load goes nowhere near those temps, it stays below 40 with ease. I also see the voltage leak with prime95 it maxed at about 1.18-1.19v.

I am really fan of adaptive voltage, to me in the past the turn off with overclocking was extra heat/power when its idle, a price I was never prepared to pay. On the i5 750 this improved with offset voltage, but that still increased idle voltages (just not to full voltage) and also idle clocks went up as turbo mode multiplier wasnt tunable. Adaptive voltage only increases the voltage in turbo mode. Turbo mode v2.0 also is sweet in that the overclock only applies to turbo mode not idle.

http://valid.x86.fr/nyk1gp
a b K Overclocking
a b à CPUs
March 27, 2014 8:01:34 PM

eh..3.8-4.2 is good for a daily OC on a Lynnfield :) 
You may as well forget running the RAM high..keep it around 16-1800-ish
Oh..you switched to Haswell..eh..
The temps on Haswell make me feel woozy.
What ever you RAM you have,Haswell will clock it as high it will go..I would play with that if I were you. :) 
PS:Forget all that nonsense about "overvolting RAM will damage your IMC"..that is..horse manure
March 31, 2014 7:55:17 AM

Awwww! I want 4.3Ghz at 1.18volt to! I'm so getting me a new -E CPU next time and will fuck it up to max >:3 And I guess the trade-off for stable OC compared to dynamic voltage is the temps. But as I run on oil I'll as well push it to da max :p 
April 3, 2014 2:05:54 AM

by the way I and someone else discovered a bug with cpuid software and asus z87-plus boards (possibly affecting other z87 boards)

cpuz is showing the vid not vcore reading.
hwmonitor the vid works but the vcore is wrong showing permanent 1.776v

I am now having to use aisuite3 for accurate readings because of this.

seems no reviewers picked this up, they just blindly trust cpuz and hwmonitor :) 
April 5, 2014 9:08:25 AM

further info, in hwmonitor vin4 is the vcore.

cpuid seem not interested no reply of them, I guess they only interested in the premium asus boards, republic of gamer etc. or maybe only interested if I am a reviewer.
April 13, 2014 3:51:36 PM

Yeah! Always cross check the temps and voltages in BIOS first. Then check them agai when windows start through Speedfan, CPUID, HW-monitor etc. and see which programs are showing closest to what the BIOS said. Of course the temps can be a bit higher when Windows starts as the CPU uses more resources then it does in BIOS. But still :3
!