casey10

Distinguished
Mar 20, 2011
206
0
18,680
I need to find a good 700-800 Wattage power supply for 40-80$ anyone can help, my 550 W isnt cutting it anymore and IDK why I have a 450 GTS,AMD phenom x4, and 4 Gigs of DDR 2 1066
 
Solution


550 watts is more than enough power for your components, if the psu isn't cutting it anymore it's more likely due to a lack of quality than a lack of wattage.
Nice that you provided a budget , but where is it that you want to spend it ? US , UK , elsewhere ?


550 watts is more than enough power for your components, if the psu isn't cutting it anymore it's more likely due to a lack of quality than a lack of wattage.
Nice that you provided a budget , but where is it that you want to spend it ? US , UK , elsewhere ?
 
Solution

casey10

Distinguished
Mar 20, 2011
206
0
18,680


The united states
 

casey10

Distinguished
Mar 20, 2011
206
0
18,680
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/AMD/Phenom_II_X4_840/

This article says my Processor Takes 168 Watts on load, so that thus proves my power supply isnt big enough.
 
Have to deagree with statement:
"This article says my Processor Takes 168 Watts on load, so that thus proves my power supply isnt big enough."

I do agree with 500->650 Quality PSU would be an excellent choice.
I think Davcon gave a couple of excellent choices.

Your system probably around 400->450 Watts W/Max cpu and max GPU.
Ref a I7-965 W/GTS 450 = approx 300 W (Max load GPS, CPU low) so add an extra 100 W = approx 400 W. But not offen that Both CPU and GPU are maxed out except in a stress test, which would be much more than average user would see while gaming.

Based on this I would recommend a MIN of 400 +20% = 480 Watts. Add to this any increase for future upgrades

Added:
My I5-750 Oced to 3.2 GHz w/ATI 5770 only draws 300 Watts running furmark to stress video card or Prime 95 to stress CPU - Have not tried runing both at the same time. Would be less than yours But not by more than 150 W

Ref for I7 W/460 http://www.guru3d.com/article/geforce-gts-450-review-roundup/15
 


OK
So let's say that 168 watts is for the cpu alone and not the system.
And let's not bother with the fact that those numbers don't take psu efficiency into account and that the actual DC power would be 15-25% lower.
Let's go crazy and add 100 watts for the MB, ram HD and fans, all part of the Sytem Power consumption.
Now were up to 268 watts, running Prime.
An overclocked 450 pulls about 100 watts when stressed with Furmark.
Now we are at 368 watts, when stressing the psu with a couple of power viruses.
What makes you think a 550 watt psu wouldn't be capable of providing 368 watts ?
Maybe because it's a low quality psu ?




Ah, I should have hit the F5
 

casey10

Distinguished
Mar 20, 2011
206
0
18,680
It's a rosewill power supply, so you guys dont think im getting blue screens cus of the power supply, in my HW monitor thing on the -12V it's saying -6.27-6.34 for the levels so i thought that was a sign of a bad power supply also
 
Quote "12V it's saying -6.27-6.34 "
That tells me the problem is the software reading the voltage is providing incorrect values. If +12V was -6 V your computer would not turn on and if it did it would fry everything on the +12 line. However, untill you can verify the output voltages you can not rule out PSU

(1) look in bios on health page. (2) try a different software package.

In general, Roswell PSU fall in the catagory of "Use as door stop" To verify you would need to provide model.
 
(1) are you using the latest version of HWMonitor??
CPUID HWMonitor
http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html

(2) speedfan is another popular one, or google
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy&hl=en&q=monitor+computer+voltage&aq=f&aqi=g1g-b1&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=524f32e4dee1b3fc

On where to find health page, should be in MB manual. With knowing MB make/model I can not say. But going into the bios it should be easy to find - just don't change any values, or when exit just select "do not save".
 
Could not find any detailed reviews>
Did find this
"Rosewill Stallion is built by Solytech....Solytech sucks...big time."

Without a review it is hard to recommend usage, Ie if it fails what is the failure mode and will it take out the MB (Note it did for one reviewer @ Newegg - in your link. The other question I would have are rated specs at Ambient temp (around 20->20C) or are they at operating temps which are higher. For Most cheap PSUs the ability to meet specifications drops off, in some case as much as 40%.

No Find a independent review - I do Not Buy.

Here is a link to rank order of PSUs from recommended -> NOT recommended
Some whate dtd (jan 08: http://www.computer-juice.com/forums/f40/unofficial-power-supply-rankings-14076/

A list of recommended PSUs
http://www.silentpcreview.com/Recommended_PSUs


 
Have you been able to verify what the REAL voltages are (Ref my previous post on programs)

The BEST way to verify the +5 and +12 V is using a Digital Voltmeter (Approx $20 at an Auto Parts store). They are EASY to use and are very handy at other uses around the house and car, not just for computers/electronics.
Don't know how to use - Simple manual, just google "how to use a voltmeter"
For +12V: Place black meter lead in one of two center pins (black) on a molex power connector. Place the Red meter lead in the outer (Yellow or orang) wire of the molex for the +12 V and the Red wire on the molex is your +5 V.