Bitspower Crystal Link

I've been doing some extensive research into my watercooling build, and still have yet to actually commit any money to purchasing parts.

I've decided that I'm going to go with a completely rigid delivery method to move the coolant around the loop, as I really hate the look of flexible tubing.

I know that many people use the Bitspower Crystal Link to create purely rigid loops inside small form factor cases, however I'm going to be doing my build inside a mid tower case and will require lengths longer than the maximum 5 slot provided by Bitspower.

Through my research, I've learned that the tubing Bitspower uses is 10mm ID and 12mm OD. What I'm wondering is if I were to use 3/8" ID 1/2" OD polycarbonate tubing found here:

Is there enough clearance inside the BP-BSWP-C47 fittings to account for the .7mm larger OD of the polycarbonate? Second question, is there enough material on the BP-BSWP-C47 to mill out the additional .7mm of clearance required without structurally weakening the fitting if clearance is not available as is?

I may be over thinking this, but I've been unable to come across anywhere on the net that sells 10mm ID 12mm OD polycarbonate, or even plain clear acrylic (that isn't overseas). I don't mind ordering from the States, but do prefer to order within Canada if at all possible.
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  1. Might look around here:

    I've ordered a few things from them in the past for odd projects and they have a ton of stuff on their site for all sorts of ideas when it comes to watercooling. They have some tubing that might be in-line for what you want to do, so give them a look.
  2. Mmm, offline projects, me likey :P

    First option for nonlikers of tubing, hide it, all of it :)
    I like the plan of solid tubes however I'm seeing potential issues,
    how are you going to seal the tubes to the fittings? I'd look at heating the tube and crimping it to the fittings over a ptfe collar maybe with wormdrive clamps while its still pliable,
    the other thing there is once you have the fittings on the blocks, how are you going to be able to screw the last fitting into place? You will probably have to compromise on the no-flexible tubing at least here, alternatively crimp the last fitting in situ but you will have to get that spot on :)
    and leaktesting will need to be thoroughly carried out on this one,
    I have a similar plan and that was one of the problems I foresaw but lets not let problems stop us, we should use them to inspire creativity instead :)
  3. Most 'hardline' stuff you find is opaque and not really going to let you see through to the inside unless you selectively buy it at what is likely to be higher cost. Plus, hardline PVC or other hard plastic tubings are meant to be water lines and not necessarily intended to work well with plumbing for watercooling, but it's not to say you couldn't figure out how to make it work. The biggest issue is that I think you'll find it difficult to seal fittings well and find interchangeable fittings for both the plumbing for the tubing as well as WC components where they are needed.
  4. Maybe I'm not fully comprehending this subject. If I use hard tubing (acrylic or polycarb) sized exactly the same as flexible tubing, with the exact same wall thickness, wouldn't the compression fitting seal the connection? What about using an O-Ring on the compression side, and when you screw the fitting cover to secure the line the O-Ring should in theory seal the edge of the hard tubing.
  5. Best answer
    It should, in theory, but it depends on the fittings and the actual tubing used. It's likely that you could use an o-ring or some kind of tape over the tubing to make a good seal. As long as the ID of the tubing fits well over the OD of the compression fitting barb, you should be fine.
  6. I'm not so optimistic, if the collar fits over the tube, it isn't going to be able to squish it in the normal fashion so sealing is going to be tricky, you need some flex in the tubing to allow compression
    Hence my original advice, the melt would allow some squish and sealing should be achievable
  7. I agree more with Moto, but I haven't tried what he is wishing to attempt, so I can't say for sure. The entire point of the compression fittings is to apply a compression around the tubing and the barb at the point where the fitting threads to keep it seated correctly.

    Trial and error, I suppose?
  8. Best answer selected by shadowgoon.
  9. Let us know how you get on with this please man :)
  10. I'd be interested what tubing he finds to use. I just don't know how well it would all work, but the idea is pretty cool.

    Also- looks like there is some rigid (clear) PVC tubing to consider on that site (missed it before)
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