Am I about to mix copper and aluminum with these choices?

I understand that mixing copper and aluminum is a big problem.

Have I chosen components that mix these two metals?

Phobya DC12-400 12V Water Cooling Pump - (DC12-400)
Bitspower G1/4" Thread 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD Compression Fitting (BP-CPF-CC1)
Black Ice GT Stealth 240 X-Flow Radiator - Black
XSPC Rasa High Performance Acetal CPU Liquid Cooling Block (Sockets LGA 775 / 1155 / 1156 / 1366 / 2011**)
Phobya Balancer 250 Reservoir - Black Nickel (45153)
Scythe Slip Stream 120mm x 25mm Fan - 1600 RPM (SY1225SL12H)

I know the water block I've chosen has copper guts. Not sure about the radiator. What else should I be looking at to make sure I've not accidentally mixed metals?
24 answers Last reply
More about copper aluminum choices
  1. Why the Black Ice and why a X-flow rad?

    No, you aren't mixing metals with these.
  2. To be honest, this is my first setup. It isn't for cooling a PC.

    I am going to use this to cool a high wattage chip on board LED light.

    Did I make a bad choice with the Black Ice X-flow?
  3. No, but no one really uses cross flow rads anymore...they are an outdated design, but do benefit from a little higher flow rate, even though rads are typically low restriction and high flow, anyway.

    What exactly are you doing...cooling for a LED chip? Is there a thermal issue with it, currently? Just out of curiosity, can you link to the components for the project you are cooling? (LED, board, etc)

    Are you sure the block will fit how you want to mount the block, or would another universal/chipset block work better? Have you measured the mounting holes?
  4. It's a 100 watt LED chip so there is definitely going to be heat problems.

    I'm reasonably sure this water block will work.

    Why don't you give me your recommendation on what you think would work better.

    I mainly chose that rad because it was cheaper than many and still seemed to get ok reviews.

    Here is a technical drawing of the chip. Any help you can lend to get me set up properly is much appreciated.

  5. You could also use a good 120mm or a 140mm rad as well, since it's only a 100w unit. You could also look into the XSPC X20 750L pump/res combo (used in the Rasa and Raystorm kits) to potentially cut some costs, but that's up to you.

    Are you seeing a thermal problem that a normal heatsink and active cooler couldn't cool? 100w isn't that much in the grand scheme of things unless you really wanted to make sure you cooled it well or just wanted a project....most current-gen CPUs are in the 95w-125w at stock speeds and this is very manageable with cheap air cooling.
  6. Here's the catch with this project. I have to move as much heat as possible out of the immediate area of the light and into another space. That's why I can't use a good heatsink/fan combo.

    I bet my rig is overkill. I just wanted to start high and then work my way down.

    Probably should have talked to you guys first. Doh!
  7. Well, watercooling is a good way to remove heat and dissipate it elsewhere, so you are correct with that plan. What is the 100w LED used for?
  8. I'm working on a new product in a niche market. For that reason I won't say anything more.
  9. No worries, hope it works out well for you. If you need more help on the watercooling aspect, let me know.
  10. I really, really appreciate your help. I'll def. hit you up if I have more questions. Great to have someone that knows what they are doing with this stuff to talk to.
  11. I do what I can...just trying to help. I think you'll be ok with a setup similar to what you have, might just consider a different rad, but you'd honestly be OK with the one you originally listed if it was a matter of cost. Performance-wise, it would perform better than a normal 120mm, probably similar to a 140mm and not quite up to par with a current 2x120mm. That being said, a normal 120mm rad is typically good for 100-150 watts, depending on fans used so anything 120mm and larger would work well for you.
  12. I forgot to mention it's a double. Two 120mm fans supported on that rad.
  13. I knew it was a 2x120 crossflow...just saying that there are other options, but it would still work for the amount of heat load you'd be cooling with it.
  14. What's a quality 120mm or 140mm you could recommend for me to explore?
  15. Not Black Ice unless it's an SR1. Not Swiftech and not XSPC RS series. Avoid anything that is Thermaltake.

    Magicool, XSPC (RX/EX/AX models), Coolgate, EK, Alphacool, Koolance and Phobya would be some brands to consider.
  16. Man that makes it easy. Thanks!

    Did you get a chance to look at the diagram for the LED chip side and maybe suggest a better water block that would fit better?
  17. I'd have to look at some dimensions and possibly see if there's anything that would also fit. I'll go see what I can dig up and if I find anything I'll point you that way to take a look.

    Most Intel CPU mounts are 70-80mm hole mount spacing and it looks like your diagram above is 34.0 mm? That's much smaller and you'd need to create a mount for it or go with a smaller block. Still looking.
  18. Or use a copper shim to reduce the transference area of the W/b to that of the chip
  19. I was thinking about just using thermal adhesive to glue the back of the LED chip to the waterblock. It's permanent though. Kinda sucks.
  20. Yeah, but you also have to use enough to make sure it's really permanent. If you only use a little, you get good contact but it's also easy to pull off. If you use a lot, you diminish your block contact and it's harder to remove, but can still be done via twisting and pulling. Depending on the actual surface, you might be able to setup some kind of spring mount or even zip ties if they will support a solid mount.
  21. I was thinking I could figure something out along those lines. I never really thought I'd find a block that would fit right.
  22. Its one option, I prefer removable solutions though and you seem to as well, so lets explore possibilities before resigning yourself to a solution you aren't happy with :)
    a 40x40 copper shim with holes at the corners that contacts the chip, use normal thermal paste to transfer heat, then the W/b will mount onto that using thermal paste in the usual fashion,
    if the chip is somewhat recessed from the level of the shim, you would have to mill it from a block and have the chip area thicker then the edges
    its all possible, you just have to see how hehe
    **Off to nightshift, I'll check back in the Am**
  23. Where could I find such a shim?
  24. is one I know of available,
    they would only sit over the chip though, between the chip and block, you wouldn't use that as a mounting block
    for the method I described above you'd have to mill it yourself, easily done with a bench, vice and angle grinder/file, I'll add a pic of how to do that tomorrow if needed
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