System Configuration Proposal

WhiteWelcomer

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Tweaks to build - Feedback please =)

~ Case ~ XCLIO A380COLOR Fully Black 1.0 mm SECC / ABS Plastic ATX Full Tower Computer Case - $95.99

~ Mobo ~ ASUS P6X58D Premium LGA 1366 Intel X58 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard Xtreme Design w/ SLI, CrossfireX, True SATA 6Gb/s + USB 3.0 - $309.99
(Any good 1156 boards with USB 3.0?)

~ CPU ~ Intel Core i7-920 Bloomfield 2.66GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor Model BX80601920 - $288.99
(As opposed to an i7-860?)

~ CPU Cooling ~ CORSAIR Cooling Hydro Series CWCH50-1 120mm High Performance CPU Cooler - $77.89
(I really like this option; keeps CPU cool under considerably high temperatures, isn't ridiculously expensive for liquid cooling, and is relatively small.)

~ CPU Cooling ~ Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - $6.99

~ RAM ~ Patriot Extreme Performance Gaming Series 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model PGS36G1333ELK - $169.99
(As opposed to 1600? Worth the extra speed? Even usable on the i7?)

~ GPU(s) ~ SAPPHIRE 100281SR Radeon HD 5870 (Cypress XT) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFire Supported Video - $409.99
(As opposed to waiting for the NVidia GF100 boards?)

~ HDD ~ Western Digital Caviar Black WD10000LSRTL 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Hard Drive - $109.99

~ ODD(s) ~ 2x MSI 24X DVD Burner Black SATA Model DH-24AAS-17 R - $69.98 ($34.99 each)
(I plan to worry about getting a Blu-Ray later; for now, I wont need one.)

~ PSU ~ Rosewill BRONZE series RBR1000-M 1000W Continuous@40°C, 80Plus Bronze Certified,Modular Cable Design,ATX12V v2.3/ EPS12V,SLI Ready,CrossFire Ready,Active PFC"Compatible with Core i7, i5" Power Supply - $129.99
(Overkill? Even if I wait and go with the NVidia GF100? The Dec-2009 SBM pointed out that 850W was plenty for that system.)

~ Input ~ SteelSeries Merc Black USB Wired Ergonomic Gaming Keyboard - $24.99

~ Input ~ Logitech G9x Black Two modes scroll USB Wired Laser 5700 dpi Gaming Mouse - $94.99

~ Sound ~ Creative Inspire T3130 2.1 Speakers - $49.99

~ Sound ~ Sound Blaster Arena Surround USB Gaming Headset -$99.99

~ Display ~ Auria EQ2668 Black 25.54" 5ms HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor - $269.99

~ OS ~ Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders - $179.99

Subtotal - $2,389.73


Any helpful insight and alternatives would be great.
For the most part, I'm set on being pretty sure about the mouse, keyboard, and headset, 'cause those are somewhat personal preference.
As far as the other stuff, any suggestions on better value found in alternative configurations would be much appreciated.

Primary use for this system will be gaming, followed by schooling (in a close second; I'll actually be going to school to develop/design games), and general-use being my third main use.

Thanks!
 
^ Hi,
If am not wrong, I had said it to you earlier, that never skimp on the PSU quality...
Always stick to Tier 1 PSU manufacturers...And Yes 850W would be plenty for your needs...
Antec TPQ 850W
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371009

RAM - Why not this one for less ?
Corsair 6GB 1600MHz CAS 9
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145258

Graphics card - Better warranty
XFX HD 5870
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150443
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150476

CPU Cooling - The H50 was reviewd here at TOMs and it was proved that a Big air cooler is better than a small water cooler...
So for that price. IMO you can get better performance with a air cooler
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010110574%201370826092%201370926061&CompareItemList=N82E16835233029%2CN82E16835103065%2CN82E16835608014%2CN82E16835702007%2CN82E16835185093&page=3&bop=And&ActiveSearchResult=True

CASE - If you are not much attached to that case, then you can take a look at these case
CM HAF 922/ Antec 900, 300 Illusion...
 

coldsleep

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You might try this G.Skill CAS 7 1333 MHz RAM instead - $170 with free shipping. In general, the recommendation for price/performance for gaming systems is CAS 7 1333 MHz (or step up to 1600 if you're overclocking and/or it's not too much more expensive).

For hard drives, stick to the newer 500 GB platter technology. Samsung Spinpoint F3s and Seagate 7200.12s use this ( Seagate 500 GB drive here ), as does the Western Digital Caviar Black 2 TB (but not the smaller models).

If money is no object, you might also consider an SSD for your system drive and your primary applications/games, such as this Intel 80 GB SSD.
 
For $30 more you could have the Antec 1200 Case / CP-850 PSU which would be a huge leap in quality.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.335367

Consider 1156 platform if money is tight

HSF - Cooler hasn't been reviewed all that well....would suggest one of the top three of one of these rankings

http://www.silentpcreview.com/Recommended_Heatsinks
http://www.frostytech.com/top5heatsinks.cfm#INTELHEATSINK
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=371&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=15

pick a TIM from the top few here:

http://www.hwreviewlabs.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=64%3Amega-44-thermal-paste-round-up&catid=32%3Around-ups&Itemid=47&limitstart=3
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/thermal-interface-roundup_10.html#sect1
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=138&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=3

Personally I prefer the Prolimatech Megahalems w/ IC Diamond 7 Karat TIM but any of the top 3 or 4 from those links would be a good choice. NOTE: AS5 takes up to year of normal usage to cure. See bottom of page here:

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=138&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5

Hard Drives - Check out the performance charts and pick whatever 500 GB per platter drive performs best under your usage patterns. The WD Black 2 TB is a good choice but at smaller capacities, you are limited to the Seagate 7200.12 or the Spinpoint F3. The 7200.12 excels in gaming, multimedia and pictures whereas the F3 wins at music and movie maker. See the comparisons here (copy past link in manually, link won't work in forum):

(http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/2009-3.5-desktop-hard-drive-charts/compare,1006.html?prod[2371]=on&prod[2770]=on)

Look at the tests that reflect your usage and choose accordingly.

Opticals ... would get one now and save cash for a Blue Ray.

RAM - yes get the DDR 1600 if planning to OC.....lowest CAS No. 1.65 volt set you can afford

CAS 6 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226050
CAS 7 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145286
 

WhiteWelcomer

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New build revision.

~ Case ~ Antec Twelve Hundred Black Computer Case With Side Panel Window - $159.99
~ Mobo ~ GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD3R ATX Intel Motherboard - $209.99
~ CPU ~ Intel Core i7-920 2.66GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor - $288.99
~ CPU Cooling ~ CORSAIR CWCH50-1 120mm High Performance CPU Cooler - $77.89
~ CPU Cooling ~ Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - $9.99
~ RAM ~ Kingston HyperX 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 Desktop - $171.99
~ GPU(s) ~ XFX Radeon HD 5870 HD-587X-ZNFC Video Card - $399.99
~ HDD ~ Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 500GB 3.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive - $54.99
~ ODD ~ MSI 24X DVD Burner Black SATA Model DH-24AAS-17 R - $67.98 ($33.99 each)
~ PSU ~ Antec CP-850 850W Continuous Power "compatible with Core i7" Power Supply - $109.99
~ Input ~ steelseries Black Wired Gaming Keyboard - $22.99
~ Input ~ Logitech G500 Wired Laser Gaming Mouse - $55.99
~ Sound ~ Creative Sound Blaster Arena Circumaural Gaming Headset -$79.99
~ Display ~ Auria EQ2668 Black 25.54" 5ms Widescreen LCD Monitor Built-in Speakers - $269.99
~ OS ~ Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate Full - $291.99

Subtotal - $2,272.74 (w/ -$25.00 Case/PSU combo)

I decided to go with the Antec Twelve Hundred.
I also found a $100-cheaper motherboard, with nearly identical features.
I'll stick with the 920, for various reasons.
I did go with the better PSU (thanks for the suggestion).
I'll stick with the H50; I looked at the reviews, and for what I want out of it, it will work well for me. I wont be doing a massive OC on my CPU (probably 3.2 - 3.6Ghz). Also partly because several reviews I read showed that it kept the CPU cooler than most 'high-end' air-coolers.
I also decided to go with the better memory with the 7 cas rating.
I also went with the better hard drive; 500GB is more realistic for what I'll need; (1TB {while nice} would be a bit overkill).
I also heard really good reviews about the G500 mouse, and it's cheaper.

Those are really the only major changes I made to the build.

Questions, comments, etc...?


Thanks!
 
Those are good changes...
Some suggestions...
1. TIM - AS5 has some main disadvantages such as - It needs some curring time.
- It is electrically conductive so if it spill on the mobo could result in shorting and its performance is not as good as other TIMs that are available now...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=40000085&Description=thermal%20grease&CompareItemList=N82E16835186020%2CN82E16835154003%2CN82E16835608008&page=2&bop=And&ActiveSearchResult=True

2. RAM - Check even this one - GSkillz ...It has the same speed and timings but operates at even less voltages than that Kingston...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231230
 

WhiteWelcomer

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Cool; so I'll go with the NT-H1 TIM

~ CPU Cooling ~ Noctua NT-H1 Thermal Compound - $9.99

Also with the G.Skill RAM

~ RAM ~ G.SKILL 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory - $169.99


Thanks again!
 

WhiteWelcomer

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Is it worth spending the extra money to go with a retail version of Windows 7?
I know the OEM versions require the builder (in this case, me) to provide user support.
Is it basically the equivalent of using a pirated version (not that I plan on doing that) because of the lack of any Microsoft support?

On my old system, I used a version of XP that was supposed to be a system builder's version. Microsoft up-and-decided one day that it was no longer valid, so I had a fair bit of trouble constantly dealing with a 'non-genuine' version of Windows XP. Ideally, I'd like to avoid that again. I mean, it's no big deal and I was able to make everything work and get around their genuine advantage checks, but it was a pain in the butt that I'd like to avoid this time 'round if possible.

Also, if I were to re-install the OS on my computer, for whatever reason, would I be able to do that with the OEM version or would it not let me (easliy)?

Thanks again.
 

coldsleep

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For most users, it's not worth getting the retail version.

The real "problem" with the OEM version is that it's meant for one system, which MS defines as a motherboard. If you have to replace your motherboard (due to damage) with the same model, no problem. If you end up building a new computer with a new mobo, you are supposed to buy a new copy. Reinstalling on the same computer should not provide any problems.

The real question is: how long are you going to use this version of Windows, and through how many system builds. If you expect to be on Windows 7 through 3 or 4 systems within the next couple of years, then it could be worthwhile to go with the retail version. If you intend to use this computer for 4-5 years, it's probably best to go with the OEM version.

In the future, if you run into the non-genuine problem, assuming it is a genuine copy, you can call up Microsoft, explain things, and ask them to issue you a new key.
 

WhiteWelcomer

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Ok, that makes sense.
Thank you guys so much for the help!

Any other suggestions/comments are welcome!

So, this is what it looks like so far with all the suggested/accepted changes:


~ Case ~ Antec Twelve Hundred Black Computer Case With Side Panel Window - $159.99
~ Mobo ~ GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD3R ATX Intel Motherboard - $209.99
~ CPU ~ Intel Core i7-920 2.66GHz LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor - $288.99
~ CPU Cooling ~ CORSAIR CWCH50-1 120mm High Performance CPU Cooler - $77.89
~ CPU Cooling ~ Noctua NT-H1 Thermal Compound - $9.99
~ RAM ~ G.SKILL 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory - $169.99
~ GPU ~ XFX Radeon HD 5870 HD-587X-ZNFC Video Card - $399.99
~ HDD ~ Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 500GB 3.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive - $54.99
~ ODD ~ 2x MSI 24X DVD Burner Black SATA Model DH-24AAS-17 R - $67.98 ($33.99 each)
~ PSU ~ Antec CP-850 850W Continuous Power "compatible with Core i7" Power Supply - $109.99
~ Input ~ steelseries Black Wired Gaming Keyboard - $22.99
~ Input ~ Logitech G500 Wired Laser Gaming Mouse - $55.99
~ Sound ~ Creative Sound Blaster Arena Circumaural Gaming Headset -$79.99
~ Display ~ Auria EQ2668 Black 25.54" 5ms Widescreen LCD Monitor Built-in Speakers - $269.99
~ OS ~ Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders - $139.99

Subtotal - $2,095.74 (w/ -$25 Case/PSU Combo, not including price after mail-in rebates)

Thanks again!
 

WhiteWelcomer

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Will do!
It may end up being a few months before I build it, depending on a few things. A few things may change by then and I might ask for some more advice as well, but I'll keep everything up-to-date and let you know.
 

WhiteWelcomer

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Very true.
I plan on getting the system soon.
There's a possibility that things wont work out the way I want (surprising, I know haha; do they ever? lol), in which case I'll come back to Tom'sHardware for more advice and information =)
 


here's why:

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/usb-3.0-performance,2490.html

The Gigabyte implementation steals bandwidth from the PCI-E GFX lanes to ptrovide the necessary hi speed pathways req'd for USB 3 / SATA III. SO when you use a 2nd GFX cards, you lose the USB 3 / SATA III speeds as they drop from 5 GB/s to 2.5 GB/s

And for $10, I'd move to an Asus 1920 x 1200 monitor

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236047&Tpk=asus%201920%20x%201200

Still not a fan of that Cooler tho :)
 

WhiteWelcomer

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Gotcha; what if I went with something like:

Intel BOXDX58SO http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813121361&Tpk=Intel BOXDX58SO

and

ASUS Model U3S6 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813995004&Tpk=ASUS Model U3S6

Would that work if I used it on the x4 slot?


Also, that monitor is 1920x1200 (just checked; unless I'm going insane haha) but it's out of stock, and I decided to go with this anyway:

~ Display ~ 3x ASUS VH222H Black 21.5" 5ms Widescreen 16:9 LCD HDMI Monitor Built in Speakers - $509.97 ($169.99 each)

A bit more expensive overall, but I've recently decided that a multi-monitor setup 1) is very nice, and potentially useful in almost anything, and 2) I decided I wanted to use EyeFinity on games.
I'm not worried about the small difference in 1200 vs 1080. Aside from that is the face that I'll have 3 Displays...

Also, I looked at a bunch of benchmarks and it appears that the H50 does quite well. Could you point me to some bad reviews (or whatever it is that makes you dislike it) so that I can think more about it?
I will look into the Prolimatech Megahalems in the meantime.


Thanks!
 
Well that issue with the USB3.0 and the 2nd graphics slot is only with the P55 boards and not with the X58 boards...
Unlike P55 boards where only 16 lanes are available for the graphics card, the X58 offers double the numbers...
So even if that Gigabyte X58 board utilizes the same technique as in P55 boards, then the graphic card would run in X16x8 and the x8 would be allocated for the USB3.0/ SATA 6GB/s ports...
So I dont think there would be any issues going with that Gigabyte board...
And as for the Intel board choice, those have very less features and lack very much in the overclocking department...
 

WhiteWelcomer

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WhiteWelcomer

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Hmm... true. They might have a bigger selection by then for the USB 3.0 cards too...

Grrr... decisions, decisions... lol

Would going with a x16/x8 for my GPU's (when/if {probably when} I add another one) and using x8 for the USB 3.0 card cause any major performance losses?


Thanks!
 

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