I have been busy getting this together and now it is completed...for now :D Anyone that has built a loop knows what that means.
Please give me some comments on what you think.
Idle is around 24c browsing web with youtube videos playing is 32c CPU burner got to 58-60c across 4 cores.
The cable management is still in progress so do not be to critical there.
Loop order Pump/Res to Phobya bottom backside to bottom front up to Swiftech top front out top rear to block then back to res
Bits are I5 2500k Gigabyte Z68UD4 Evga 680 4gig Corsair Ram 16 gig vengeance LP Vertex 4 256 drive Ax850 power supply

Alphacool 655T solo pump
XSPC CPU block
Koolance res top and 80mm adaptor
Koolance 80mm diam x 50mm tall res
Swiftech MCR320 QPK 360 RAD
Phobya Xtreme 200 RAD
Danger Den Dreamflex 3/8x5/8 tubing
Phobya compression and rotary angled fittings
Total investment $398.00
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23 answers Last reply
More about loop completed
  1. Looking good! :)

    When are you going to get a 680 block?
  2. Your system looks amazing! Did you sleeve the cables yourself??
    Can't wait till you get your 680 waterblock :)
  3. 1| thas a nice amount of effort put into that system!
    2| I think it's the sleeving from corsairs mod depot
    3| or maybe you're using non MDPC-x sleeving.
    4| more cable ties to manage and control those sleeved cables around the edge of the mobo. after the cable ties keep it in place, you can remove the ties and the cables should hold their own ground.
    5| you could invest in some cable tie mounts - 1/2 x 1/2 squares.

    why don't you edit this thread to make like a build log thread?
    any more pics for us to see how you got here :)?
  4. Yeah, some Cm work to do there but you can leave that until you get your Gpu in hand,
    little things like taping the cable for bottom led on the Raystorm to the block and around so both led wires are leaving the block together,
    and maybe rerouting the sleeved cables a bit, no shame in seeing sleeving work but make it tidy hehe
  5. The sleeving on all Power supply cables is Corsair braided. The case panel cables are in Flex guard convoluted tubing which adds bulk but keeps to the white theme.
    The Corsair cable kit is very ridged and will require some tinkering and training. There are 12 black cable tie mounts in use on the rear panel currently.
    I did not take pictures of the cut out for the top rad and that was all that was modded case wise other than drive bays removed.
    The rig is a constant source for my tinkering and will change bit by bit.
    Thank you for the tips and sugestions guys.
    Pics from the original build same time last year without the white tubing on front panel conections.
    Power supply was only semi modular also. Dont forget that powerhouse 6670
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  6. :) thats making more sense to see where you were and where you are now ...good job though.

    1| remove those tags before and after you pics. willhelp align this thread :)
    2| I may be crazy but its best to isolate data(USB/sata/FPaudio) cables from power cables. will help reduce EMI and interference in the FP header :)
    3| almost forgot , include full system specs at your initial post :) along with loop order. Helps untrained eyes understand the workings of a loop
  7. Update: Now that the loop has been running for a week straight the temps are great.
    Sitting idle 16c-19c and general use youtube music ect 26c-31c using XSPC K2 TIM
    Now I need to get a few UV LEDs for the RES.
    I am very happy with the setup and performance headroom currently OC to 4.6
  8. 16-18c? Where do you live? :ouch:
  9. Argyle in scotland, very chilly there lately :-)
  10. Argyle, Texas 76226 24 miles north of FT Worth.
    I use Hardware monitor and Core Temp 1.0 and each are reading the same.
    Room temp is 22c-24c The res sits right behind my 2 200mm fans in push pull on the Phobya 200 rad and gets lots of cool air then I have a 120mm fan hidden in the optical bay and the 3 120mm aerocool sharks pushing in from the top of the swiftech and the 120 exhaust fan and 2 80mm on the lighted vga slot cooler so there is plenty of air moving.
  11. Those are some very nice temperatures :D
  12. I am Pleased so far and that is with Coolant not straight distilled water.
    I did use near boiling distilled water to flush out the parts prior to instalation.
  13. Oh? why hot? I never heard that before?
  14. this is why, so you're saying you didn't flush your rads before prepping them into your case?
  15. :hello: I didn't :P
    I'm terrible, I tell everyone to flush parts out and my secret shame is that I never do :sol:
  16. :lol: I didn't flush my first run on my H50 mod :) thas the truth, but have learnt to stop cutting corners since.
  17. With copper and brass there could be residue from the solder joints or grit from the casting process. I can not belive you'r parents did not teach you to flush.
    I flushed each RAD twice to be safe.
  18. My loops a bit different Gilty, I designed it so I can hook up a bucket and flush any of the modules in situ, or even remove one and work on it whilst the rigs still running
    seeing as removing the loop means a weekends work and a full strip of the Pc, I made things easy on myself :)
    in almost all other cases I heartily endorse cleaning components before install
    Do as I say, or do as I do hehe but if you do as I do, you HAVE to design your loop properly :)
  19. Lutfij said:
    this is why, so you're saying you didn't flush your rads before prepping them into your case?

    No,no I was just asking about for the hot boiling water I never did it that way. most of the time i used use water and red wine vinegar i love the way it smells.
  20. :) that link covers why you use hot water - hint; to loosen substances/residues inside the rad apart from the post manufacturing chips.
  21. yeah I read it ty lut. lol I understand the hot water but the boiling part seem a little excessive to me. My thinking is it could it melt the tubes or that and I spill enough of that on me daily! I don't need scars also lol... lol
  22. Boiling water kills all the microbes in the water so that you are putting clean water through the rad,
    It won't melt the copper/bronze in your rad lol, but you are right to excersize caution whilst using boiled water, its still very hot obviously :)
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