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Dual rad for single CPU + GPU loop?

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December 9, 2012 8:53:35 PM

I've been looking into water cooling lately and from what i read online a single 240/280 wouldn't cut it if i want a single CPU and GPU loop.
So, my question is.. would a single 240 or 280 standard rad from EK cut it or should i add an other rad? (I would be able to add a 140 on the back)
I'm going to be doing this a a mid tower case for a 360 isn't even an option. I would also like to stay away from external rads.
CPU: Intel core i5 2500k
GPU: EVGA geforce GTX 680 FTW 4gb

Please tell me what you guys think i should do, or if i missed anything that you would need to know! :D 
a b à CPUs
a b K Overclocking
December 9, 2012 9:04:16 PM

Personally, if you're not doing a lot of overclocking; the single large radiator could probably keep the system within stock specs. But if you're doing any clocking or your CPU runs hot, I'd definitely separate them with their own radiators. It's just more efficient that way and you don't have to worry about heated water going to the GPU or CPU.

Remember, the water only gets cooled in that radiator; so without cooling the water first; the water will be warm when it gets to the next block. Personally, I'd just skip the idea and run a radiator for each of them to eliminate any worry.
a b à CPUs
a c 76 K Overclocking
December 9, 2012 9:09:32 PM

jholla said:
from what i read online a single 240/280 wouldn't cut it if i want a single CPU and GPU loop.
is the source of that discovery, from the watercooling sticky v2 :sarcastic:  ?

external rads?

here's some food for thought,
If you were supposed to go vacation with 10 relatives(w/ their nuclear family) and all you have is a Toyota Camry, would you cram everyone in that or try managing a minivan to get everyone across the pond ;)  ?
Related resources
December 9, 2012 9:13:38 PM

steddora said:
Personally, if you're not doing a lot of overclocking; the single large radiator could probably keep the system within stock specs. But if you're doing any clocking or your CPU runs hot, I'd definitely separate them with their own radiators. It's just more efficient that way and you don't have to worry about heated water going to the GPU or CPU.

Remember, the water only gets cooled in that radiator; so without cooling the water first; the water will be warm when it gets to the next block. Personally, I'd just skip the idea and run a radiator for each of them to eliminate any worry.



So what your saying is that i would need 2 loops? 1 for each?
Because if that's the case i'm not sure i would have enough room for 2 pumps... ect.
a b à CPUs
a b K Overclocking
December 9, 2012 9:53:03 PM

Either or really. Depends on the power of the pump and just how far you're pushing the water. If I was in that situation here's what I would do.

Res -> pump -> cpu -> radiator -> GPU -> radiator #2 -> res

Of course that's much more simpler than it will be but that's what I'd be aiming for. That way I know everything stays cool, the GPU and CPU both have their own radiator cooling off their heat waste. Personally, I don't prefer water cooling unless then entire system is going to get the treatment. So I'd actually want a giant case with blocks for the GPU, CPU, NB, and anything else that may need cooled.

However, someone with more experience with big loops could tell you better than I can personally. I just know that I wouldn't want both blocks to be ran without a radiator between them. That way I'm not dealing with hot water going over a component.
a b à CPUs
a c 76 K Overclocking
December 9, 2012 9:58:29 PM

If your TDP calc and the choice of rads are correct, or more, then there's no worry of getting water onto another component. Its the lack of rad space that makes heat remain in the loop to heat up another block/component.
a b à CPUs
a c 324 K Overclocking
December 9, 2012 11:01:10 PM

Seems there are a couple things that need to be clarified so far:

You shouldn't need 2 loops for a CPU+ 1GPU loop. Single loop is fine. Single rad is fine. It's all about TDP. A 280 should be enough, but you might be fine with a thick 240...again...all about combined TDP.

There isn't a case where water is warm or hot from one component to the next. Loop flow moves very quickly and you'll find that water temps at any single point in the loop will likely only differ just a few degrees Celsius at most. This is a very common misconception and you don't need a radiator between any components based on this idea. Loop order does not matter for loop temps as you would see almost negligible load temp differences based on different radiator placement in the loop.

It's much simpler to account for the amount of radiator space you'll need and determine where to mount it and then simply run tubing and fittings in the simplest layout possible.
December 10, 2012 12:50:06 AM

rubix_1011 said:
Seems there are a couple things that need to be clarified so far:

You shouldn't need 2 loops for a CPU+ 1GPU loop. Single loop is fine. Single rad is fine. It's all about TDP. A 280 should be enough, but you might be fine with a thick 240...again...all about combined TDP.

There isn't a case where water is warm or hot from one component to the next. Loop flow moves very quickly and you'll find that water temps at any single point in the loop will likely only differ just a few degrees Celsius at most. This is a very common misconception and you don't need a radiator between any components based on this idea. Loop order does not matter for loop temps as you would see almost negligible load temp differences based on different radiator placement in the loop.

It's much simpler to account for the amount of radiator space you'll need and determine where to mount it and then simply run tubing and fittings in the simplest layout possible.


The reason I want to go with a 280 and not a thick 240 is because i'm already going to have to "ghetto mod" my hard drive cage over so the rad can fit. I want to leave as much room as possible for for my psu and all of its cables and i have to mount my res/pump on the top of the cage. If the cage is too far to the left I will not longer be able to fit the res/pump because the beefy FTW 680 would be right above it.
At this point i'm just seeing if i can keep the cost as low as possible, as effective as possible, as quiet as possible, and make sure it can all fit in the first place!
a c 184 à CPUs
a c 149 K Overclocking
December 10, 2012 5:43:52 AM

What case?
a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
December 10, 2012 8:35:29 AM

Why not an external radbox for all the pump/res radiator requirements?
and you have already discovered that which I love to say,
W/c is modding.
Don't worry, we'll help :) 
**Edit, One large loop is easier and should be cheaper than two separate loops**
Moto
December 10, 2012 10:13:09 AM

amuffin said:
What case?


Fractal define r4. That's why i want to keep it in the case, because it is possible, but tight.
December 10, 2012 10:14:49 AM

Motopsychojdn said:
Why not an external radbox for all the pump/res radiator requirements?
and you have already discovered that which I love to say,
W/c is modding.
Don't worry, we'll help :) 
**Edit, One large loop is easier and should be cheaper than two separate loops**
Moto


I just don't like the look of thing going in and out of the case, i was hoping just to keep it all inside if possible...
a b à CPUs
a c 324 K Overclocking
December 10, 2012 12:32:41 PM

I wouldn't sacrifice cooling performance of a loop simply based on aesthetics. If you can't properly cool the components in the loop there isn't any reason to use watercooling. That being said, a CPU + a 680 should be OK on a single 280 as long as you aren't really overclocking anything a great deal. Running a 280 is similar to running a 360 in most instances.
December 10, 2012 12:56:20 PM

rubix_1011 said:
I wouldn't sacrifice cooling performance of a loop simply based on aesthetics. If you can't properly cool the components in the loop there isn't any reason to use watercooling. That being said, a CPU + a 680 should be OK on a single 280 as long as you aren't really overclocking anything a great deal. Running a 280 is similar to running a 360 in most instances.


I'm going to be cooling a 680 FTW 4gb, which means that it's pre overclocked to 1110ghz and my i5 2500k will be getting overclocked to 4.5ghz or higher hopefully. These are my cooling need for a water cooling loop and i'm wondering if a single 280 could handle that in this set up:

rad>res/pump>gpu>cpu>back to rad

and if that can't handle it i would do this (rad #2 will be a 140)

rad #1>res/pump>gpu>rad #2> cpu> back to rad #1


and i'm trying to find out if i can even mount the res/pump on my hard drive cage even after i move it for the 280 that will be doing in the back.

EDIT: check out my profile picture, that is my current set up as of this monent. Te rad will be flush with the front fans and the hard drives will be moved over. Do you think i will be able to fit a res/pump from ek there?
a b à CPUs
a c 76 K Overclocking
December 10, 2012 1:15:19 PM

got a link to your gallery, magnify isn't quite friendly with lil imagery, its not like the movies where you can zoom in x30 from a small store camera :) 

sorry for the sarcasm. Looking forward to what you have now, as I've seen many people work with Fractal cases. Just remember, squashing things inside will only dent your already immaculate choice of parts.
December 10, 2012 1:21:36 PM

Lutfij said:
got a link to your gallery, magnify isn't quite friendly with lil imagery, its not like the movies where you can zoom in x30 from a small store camera :) 

sorry for the sarcasm. Looking forward to what you have now, as I've seen many people work with Fractal cases. Just remember, squashing things inside will only dent you already immaculate choice of parts.


do you think the single rad would fit/work decently in this case?

fyi, I've got this guy powering 3x 23" monitors for nvidia surround, thats why i'm still trying to get more performance from the set up that i've already got. :) 
a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
December 10, 2012 1:21:44 PM

As well as reducing airflow to the whole :) 
Moto
a b à CPUs
a c 76 K Overclocking
December 10, 2012 1:23:47 PM

^ yeah and if you add those triple monitor setup, that just means more heat...more compromises.

I'll try taking a look at some pics of that case, a lil busy doing some work on my drawings...

where's the gallery mate?
a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
December 10, 2012 1:33:41 PM

**I just don't like the look of thing going in and out of the case, i was hoping just to keep it all inside if possible...**
Why not design the box as a pedestal that the main Pc sits on top of?
That way you could have the tubing/wiring go up through the floor of the Pc, so there wouldn't be anything visible from the outside to show what it actually was,
Personally I'd run a 240/280 in the case and two 360's in a box, the 240/280 allows for the Cpu and that leaves the equivalent of a 360 for each Gpu to try and heat, overclocked or not its sufficient to deal with the workload here
Moto
December 10, 2012 1:42:35 PM

Lutfij said:
^ yeah and if you add those triple monitor setup, that just means more heat...more compromises.

I'll try taking a look at some pics of that case, a lil busy doing some work on my drawings...

where's the gallery mate?


You want me to make a gallery of my set up? or do you just want the gallery for the bare bones of the case?
a b à CPUs
a c 76 K Overclocking
December 10, 2012 1:45:51 PM

whatever you have to work with, ofc, if you don't have a gallery now'd be a good time to open an acc with photbucket. Will come in handy later downthe road :) 
December 10, 2012 3:11:31 PM

Lutfij said:
whatever you have to work with, ofc, if you don't have a gallery now'd be a good time to open an acc with photbucket. Will come in handy later downthe road :) 




^That's the best i can do for now. I only have a few pictures on my computer and I don't have my camera atm, but if they aren't good enough I can have better ones up in a day or two!
a b à CPUs
a c 76 K Overclocking
December 10, 2012 4:43:00 PM

hate to tell you this but you'll notice a severe impact on your internal rad setup. From here on, I'd like to make headway with your build, so I'd like it if you'd work with me as well :)  help me help you kinda thing.

Why are you moving to watercooling btw?
How much are you investing in this fun *tight* project?
What sort of rads are you aiming at?
How dya see yourself mounting the rads?

* I'd have recommend reading the sticky 10 times before answering but this usually doesn't end well.

So lets get moving, shall we? :) 
December 10, 2012 5:21:19 PM

Lutfij said:
hate to tell you this but you'll notice a severe impact on your internal rad setup. From here on, I'd like to make headway with your build, so I'd like it if you'd work with me as well :)  help me help you kinda thing.

Why are you moving to watercooling btw?
How much are you investing in this fun *tight* project?
What sort of rads are you aiming at?
How dya see yourself mounting the rads?

* I'd have recommend reading the sticky 10 times before answering but this usually doesn't end well.

So lets get moving, shall we? :) 


Why: I want to get some high over clocks on my cpu, I want to cool my gpu a bit more, and i want a quieter case.
How much: I honestly have no idea, but from the research that i've already done... it isn't going to be cheap.
rads: the most ideal way would be a 280 in the front.
Mounting: Like this
a b à CPUs
a c 76 K Overclocking
December 10, 2012 8:06:15 PM

hmmm,
my point still stands mate:
1| the only sort of rads you're going to be able to accommodate on the front panel (via the mod) is slim depth radiators=high FPI=high rpm fans=more noise(whirring)
2| mentioned in the sticky, check this out
3| the whole point of me saying no to an internal layout in that very case is having slim rads. This'll defeat the purpose of your quieter setup to be a money guzzling, objective defeating setup.
4| best setup a budget mate, we can move up or down from there.
5| problems with just copy/pasting ideas off of blogs is that they(the client+builder) have worked out some issues to reach the end of a build. Maybe the client wasn't even bothered by noise or he just needed to showoff that he can afford watercooling parts.

6| your most ideal setup isn't just one rad hanging in the front of a case.
7| you do realize that even if you go for that 280rad , ideally the rad will be in push/pull config to achieve the best possible, low noise setup...even better would be to have the fans with a shroud in between both fans - i.e: 2x25+30+2x25=(fan+shroud+rad+shroud+fan)=130mm
8| setting up rad in the front to blow into case - will dump the heat inside case, so rig temps will rise, essentially you're feeding your cpu+GPU+mobo warmer air - this'll add heat to your components & loop. Nothing worth crying over now, but in summer - this'll put you off watercooling for good as you'll believe you've spent all that for a silly classroom project.
9| in support of that, high OC's will mean more juice, more heat
10| noise is subjective, quiet can mean alot to alot of people. In fact I whisper whenever I'm asked to be quiet :lol: 
11| so we'd like your experience to be worthwhile and maybe treat us with some cool pics of your build.

hope that explains alot.

Take a look at this link, Fractal Design Case Club and go through the pages, see if anyone else has done anything different. I'd suggest moving away from the norm and having something true to yourself :) 

Finally, please read the watercooling sticky a couple of times, alot of stuff is detailed in it, where dya think we learnt the info? BTW, Rubix can be counted out cos he wrote up the sticky :) 
a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
December 10, 2012 8:40:30 PM

The best route for a silent rig is the over-radding approach, which means more rads than is strictly necessary, this allows you to run the fans slower and quieter,
Trust me on this, I have one of the coolest, quietest rigs on here,
You may not like the idea of an external radbox, but on your midtower you simply cannot mount enough radspace to get the silence you want,
Moto
a b à CPUs
a c 76 K Overclocking
December 10, 2012 9:06:33 PM

hehe, what of a mo-ra over raddage on the back of case or on the side panel?(I think someone here did that too) I'd have suggested that but Op isn't for the idea...so we're trying to make him make an informed decision.

jholla said:
do you think the single rad would fit/work decently in this case?
for the amount of money you've spent on the parts to power your rig, you don't want to go for a decent setup, watercooling wise.
a b à CPUs
a b K Overclocking
December 10, 2012 9:27:02 PM

Beat him into submission;-) You can't have it all - jump in with both feet - looks like you have at least 3 knowledgeable people to help you.
-Bruce
December 10, 2012 9:29:23 PM

At a minimum you want 1 120mm radiator per heat source. Double that if you plan on overclocking or are going for a "silent" build. For CPU+GPU a 240/280mm rad would do fine at stock. If you want to overclock you will want to look at ways of adding a second radiator. Mods have been done to enable a front 240/280mm rad in the front of the R4. Pairing that with a top 240mm may be the best option if you can fit it all in there.

http://www.mnpctech.com/casemodblog/2012/08/20/guide-to...

Mounting a 3.5" hard drive in the second optical drive bay would eliminate the need for the hard drive cages completely. SSD's can be hidden (read: velcroed) behind the motherboard tray. Then it's just a matter of mounting the 240/280mm in the front and a 240 up top (making sure whatever rad/fan combo you choose won't interfere with heatsinks on the motherboard). There should then be ample room in the case to place the pump and reservoir.
a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
December 10, 2012 9:41:23 PM

@Lutfij, I knw mate, thats what I'm trying to get across too :-)
If Op wants high clocks AND silence, he HAS to compromise on his rad fixation, if he wants less rad or no external parts, then he HAS to lower the clocks or put up with the noise, you and I know this.
Moto
December 10, 2012 11:34:47 PM

WithoutWeakness said:
At a minimum you want 1 120mm radiator per heat source. Double that if you plan on overclocking or are going for a "silent" build. For CPU+GPU a 240/280mm rad would do fine at stock. If you want to overclock you will want to look at ways of adding a second radiator. Mods have been done to enable a front 240/280mm rad in the front of the R4. Pairing that with a top 240mm may be the best option if you can fit it all in there.

http://www.mnpctech.com/casemodblog/2012/08/20/guide-to...

Mounting a 3.5" hard drive in the second optical drive bay would eliminate the need for the hard drive cages completely. SSD's can be hidden (read: velcroed) behind the motherboard tray. Then it's just a matter of mounting the 240/280mm in the front and a 240 up top (making sure whatever rad/fan combo you choose won't interfere with heatsinks on the motherboard). There should then be ample room in the case to place the pump and reservoir.


The only problem with removing the cage is that I have a 128gb ssd and a 256 ssd on the back of my motherboard, and 3 hdd's in the cage, which is filling all spots.
December 10, 2012 11:44:31 PM

If i move away from adding a water block to the gpu I can easily save myself $200+ and just go with the cpu for starters.
I currently have mt 2500k overclocked to 4.5ghz and my temps are at 80c while running prime 95. (Using coolermaster hyper 212 evo)
If i add a 280 rad in the front with a small res/pump going just to the cpu could i clock it really high?
and for now just leave the gpu on air for now and then upgrade in the future with sli or with the 700 series of nvidia cards in a much bigger case made for water cooling.
Tell me what you guys think!

My case if you guys want to see it!
a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
December 11, 2012 12:07:24 AM

Now thats a compromise :-)
Salvage the Cpu overclock and save the Gfx for later, I knew you'd get there with a little prompting,
The 280 for the Cpu alone is a good move, and research well into the new case as modding is often necessary even in huge cases, the one exceptoion I know of is the Azza 4000, even so, I'd still end up modding it :-p
Moto
a b à CPUs
a c 76 K Overclocking
December 11, 2012 12:11:11 AM

you mean the 800D :)  I'd opt for compromising on the case, cooling would remain intact in my agenda - no matter how costly it'd be.
a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
December 11, 2012 12:20:24 AM

I make it work noo matter what, as long as those cables are invisible I'm happy :-)
Plus a neg Delta is a must hehe
Moto
December 11, 2012 12:27:46 AM

Do any of you have any recommendations for the loop components?
is there such thing as a 280 slim rad? If not it'll most likely just go with a slim 240.
a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
December 11, 2012 12:34:02 AM

Xspc do a 280 if I recall right ,not sure of others though sorry, if you check the sticky theres a list of e-tailers we recommend, I'm on the mobile at work but if you post a list I'll review it as I can,
D5 pump is good, raystorm block, whichever rad you like, reservoir your choice, tubing and fittings must match sizewise, and distilled water for fluid
Moto
December 11, 2012 12:55:33 PM

Motopsychojdn said:
Xspc do a 280 if I recall right ,not sure of others though sorry, if you check the sticky theres a list of e-tailers we recommend, I'm on the mobile at work but if you post a list I'll review it as I can,
D5 pump is good, raystorm block, whichever rad you like, reservoir your choice, tubing and fittings must match sizewise, and distilled water for fluid
Moto


Currently I'm looking at stuff from EKWB what are your thoughts on their CPU water blocks and their pump/res combos? :) 
a b à CPUs
a c 76 K Overclocking
December 11, 2012 1:20:34 PM

EK products are some of the best out there, however, I always cringe at the sight of their EN plated blocks that are notorious for flaking and corrosion woes.

you should be good with any of their products except the elite version of Supramacy(that come with Liquid Metal Pro) and the Nickel plated versions.
a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
December 11, 2012 2:07:08 PM

^like he said :) 
As long as you avoid their nickel blocks I'm happy
I have two of the (Copper) VGA HF Supremes cooling my modded 6950's and can't fault them, I don't see why a Cpu variant wouldn't be as good
depending on which pump you see/select, post a link and we can look over it for you
Moto
December 11, 2012 2:50:38 PM

Lutfij said:
EK products are some of the best out there, however, I always cringe at the sight of their EN plated blocks that are notorious for flaking and corrosion woes.

you should be good with any of their products except the elite version of Supramacy(that come with Liquid Metal Pro) and the Nickel plated versions.


I'm thinking of using the "EK Supreme LTX CSQ - Plexi"

and as a pump i'll use the "EK-DCP 2.2 Compact Water Pump" connected directly to the "EK-Reservoir Combo for DCP 2.2"

Any thoughts?
a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
December 11, 2012 3:31:10 PM

http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/ek-dcp_4_0_high_pe... would be better but would require a different top/res, twice the flow for a few dollars more,
It will hold a single block/rad set up fine but once you add another block and rad it may start to struggle, with your pump you really don't want to compromise, its the heart of your loop and must be able to push the water through at around 1Gpm no matter the restriction,
Ofc the D5's walk all over that even in high restriction loops for a few dollars more but are well worth it, unless you want a three pump loop like mine?
the info on the vendors pages is the 'clean' flow and pressure, as in there is no restriction to the loop, once you add blocks and rads, you create a loss of pressure/flow and should try to account for that in your initial design
Moto
Moto
December 11, 2012 4:34:30 PM

That was actually the pump I had picked out, but then i changed my mind, I guess it was a very good idea asking for your input!

So, now that i have those 3 components picked out here is my idea for the rad.

I want to use the "xspc slim 280 rad" with 2 "cougar vortex 140mm fans

What are your thoughts on that rad, and that rad paired with 2 for those fans in a push config? :) 
a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
December 11, 2012 4:50:34 PM

The rads cool, and cougars are popular fans,
there are more powerful/effective fans out there but you won't be disappointed with them, maybe its possible to mount the fans on the outside of the front a la shroud, giving the fans a chance to negate the deadspot, time will tell when you have the parts there and can fiddle around a bit :) 
Moto
December 11, 2012 6:18:45 PM

Motopsychojdn said:
The rads cool, and cougars are popular fans,
there are more powerful/effective fans out there but you won't be disappointed with them, maybe its possible to mount the fans on the outside of the front a la shroud, giving the fans a chance to negate the deadspot, time will tell when you have the parts there and can fiddle around a bit :) 
Moto


do you know how loud there fans are by chance?
a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
December 11, 2012 6:26:32 PM

Scrolling down the link you gave, 19.2Db at 1200Rpm, pretty quiet by anyones book
Moto
December 11, 2012 6:32:26 PM

Motopsychojdn said:
Scrolling down the link you gave, 19.2Db at 1200Rpm, pretty quiet by anyones book
Moto


Yeah, i was just looking at the specs, it seems like a pretty good fan!

Now, i'm looking for coolant and tubing.

I either want a white tube with white coolant or a see through tube with a dark blue coolant.

Either one is okay with me, but i understand some tubing/coolants are better then others.

If you can please see if they have anything good on "dazmode.com" which is where i want to order everything except the fans.

Oh, and i was thinking of going with tubing that has a id of 3/8 and od of 1/2 since it's a small case and small loop. But if 1/2 id is better i could always go with that.
a c 103 à CPUs
a c 190 K Overclocking
December 11, 2012 6:36:41 PM

No coolant.
Distilled water for the liquid and coloured tubing if you want colour, drop of Pt nuke or a silver coil for anti-algae duties
I can't look atm as I'm about to leave for work but tubing size is mainly irrelevant, just make sure the fittings match the tubing,
tubing size is a personal choice really as theres no difference performance-wise
Moto
December 11, 2012 7:18:23 PM

Motopsychojdn said:
No coolant.
Distilled water for the liquid and coloured tubing if you want colour, drop of Pt nuke or a silver coil for anti-algae duties
I can't look atm as I'm about to leave for work but tubing size is mainly irrelevant, just make sure the fittings match the tubing,
tubing size is a personal choice really as theres no difference performance-wise
Moto


Any specific reason why I should use distilled water and not a coolant that comes with anti-algae in it?
a b à CPUs
a c 324 K Overclocking
December 11, 2012 7:23:25 PM

Watercooling sticky:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky

Section:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky#t1992128

Quote:
Additives, Corrosion and the Unknown

Almost all seasoned watercooling veterans will tell you to use only distilled water and either a biocide (such as PTNuke or similar) or a KillCoil...or both. A killcoil is a coil of .9999 pure silver that you drop into your reservoir to inhibit growth of algae and other critters. Most will highly advise against using premixes; some of these even precipitate out and can clog your blocks (FeserOne has a nasty reputation of doing just this).


Also from the sticky:

Section:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky#t1992133

Quote:
Do premixes, coolants or additives cooler better than plain, distilled water?

In short, no. Coolants and premixes mean there are additional additives present in the water, based on what we discussed about thermal conductivity and specific heat of water is that not many off-the-shelf items can beat it for the price. Therefore, these additives lower both of these properties below normal distilled, making them slightly less effective. The higher the concentration of additive/coolant, the less effective at cooling it becomes compared with plain distilled. Read more below:
Skinnee Labs Coolant/Fluid Roundup-Thermal Performance
!