Dual rad for single CPU + GPU loop? - page 2

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  1. Alright, if i decide you use killcoil... much much do i put in the rez? how long of a piece? and would it be something i would have to regularly? :)
  2. You put the entire coil in. You also should consider using an antimicrobial solution as well; a few drops of PTnuke or other similar product is all you really need.
  3. rubix_1011 said:
    You put the entire coil in. You also should consider using an antimicrobial solution as well; a few drops of PTnuke or other similar product is all you really need.


    Will the entire coil fit in my small-ish res? it's a cylinder ek res.
  4. The entire coil will wrap around the end of your pinky finger. It isn't very big.
  5. Killcoils will fit inside tubing, you just drop it in the res and forget about it, it would take several thousand years to dissolve
    Moto
  6. Motopsychojdn said:
    Killcoils will fit inside tubing, you just drop it in the res and forget about it, it would take several thousand years to dissolve
    Moto


    Oh, wasn't aware of that! From this picture here it make the coil look much larger, but that was just a mistake on my end!
  7. That's just a spool of the wire they use...they'll cut a strip about 1"-2" and coil it around something to make it look like a spring.
  8. It does say 250mm, so 25Cm, thats about ten coils worth if thats true so grab that, cut an inch off and twist it up, job done.
    And sell the other nine on egay to get your money back :-p
    Moto
  9. Perfect!

    Now i'm just trying to work out how many and which fittings i'll need for my build. The most expensive parts are the quick disconnects for when ever i want to drain the loop.
    I'm buying one for the loop and another one that i can have on standby so when i want to drain it i just put a bucked under it and connect the other set of disconnects. This seem like the easiest way from what i see, but not cheap.... 60 cnd... :/
  10. They are handy though, you'll need three for that kind of set up though, a male and female to keep the loop sealed, and one more to have on the drain tube that will live in your shed till needed, a T-line with plug is a cheaper option if you prefer
    And its two fittings per component, block, pump res rads etc
    Moto
  11. I'm getting 2 male and 2 female so i can drain the top of the loop and the res at the same time.
    right idea? or should i only need to drain from one of them?
  12. Then you'd need six, four that are on the loop permanently, and two on the drain tubes, too costly and awkward tbh, and thats coming from me lol, just a t-line at the lowest point of the loop will do,
    But bonus points for thinking ahead, most folks don't :-)
    Moto
  13. Motopsychojdn said:
    Then you'd need six, four that are on the loop permanently, and two on the drain tubes, too costly and awkward tbh, and thats coming from me lol, just a t-line at the lowest point of the loop will do,
    But bonus points for thinking ahead, most folks don't :-)
    Moto


    Well, I just got off my computer and I'm on my phone now, but I'll make sure to price out your idea in the morning and see if I can safe a couple bucks! :)
  14. I have a quick question about the rad I want to get.

    Do you guys think that this rad would work with this mod?

    I just want to get a second opinion because he isn't specific about how large his 280 is. The xspc rad i'm looking at is 320mm in height but i'm not use if it'll fit in my case like the one in that guys post.

    please tell me what you guys think! :)
  15. From three sets of QDC's to a T-piece and a plug is one massive saving :)
    http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/fill_drain_port_sealing_plug_w_1_2_id_tubing_barb_-_silver/
    There are some Y-adaptors on Daz's site but ideally you want a T-Line adaptor like this,
    http://www.thewatercoolingshop.co.uk/clear-barbed-t-fitting-1-2-63043.html
    the drain line is the one coming off the bottom spar and is plugged in ordinary use,
    you remove the plug and open the res (to allow air back into the loop)
    bit of tilting and 95% of the coolant is down the sink ready for you to strip/clean the loop,
    You could also be like me and design the loop to be flushed in situ, no stripping the Pc down unless you are adding more parts, it would require a closable room, no kids or pets etc but I tell you, hooking the Pc up to clean itself and wandering off for a few hours, is priceless :P
    that may be a plan down the line though, just know that it, (like everything) is possible, it just depends if the time/effort and expense is worth it to you
    Moto
  16. The measurements of the Sr are as follows,
    153mm wide 316 high 55.9 thick
    Ex is,
    143mm, 320, 36 thick,
    looking at his gallery you may find it a squeeze, but if you have the case to hand, just measure base to the bottom of the Dvd drive cage and doublecheck the Ex would fit ok, it maybe that it fits, maybe not, in which case its more modding or return the rad for a Black ice like bill used :)
    Thicker rad so slightly better cooling as well
    Moto
  17. Well maybe I'll just use the thick 280 from EKWB and I'll just have mod the hard drive cage a little bit :) I'm pretty sure the EKWB one is 316! :)
  18. http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-rad-xtc-280.html
    317mm Cmon Bro, learn to google :P
    seriously, googling is a great help for W/c, *Pro tip* google terms like W/c case or Watercooled Pc and scope out the images, many an idea can be borrowed to your advantage, I had Antec Pm me about a feature on my loop a while back so if they do it, why don't you?
    :P
    Moto
  19. SR and all the other rads out there that are slim will need high rpm fans to keep temps in an acceptable range=noise=defeating the purpose of going lower noise via watercooling.

    @ modo - the sticky has detailed alot of what you've just posted up until now, I don't see how OP is struggling to find his info bearings :na: even though this is those copy/pasting efforts design/layout wise.
  20. That rads 10Fpi dude, lowspeed will rock it and its actually thicker than the Xspc one as well,
    i know the sticky covers most of what I've said, but I think op here needs just a little encouraging and he may be the next Muffin,
    and you've seen how he's progressed :)
    Moto
  21. amuffin has progressed alot! however, he's done alot his own homework!

    I was talking about the SR-1's mate, they claim to be low rpm rads but they are underperforming. No offense but I just don't like the pricing on them Black Ice's much cheaper alternatives out there

    @ OP, you sure the plenum chamber end where the ports are located won't bang into the upper level 5.25" drive bay border/edge? if It won't then I'd go for the XSPC's like these: 1 and 2

    cheaper to me... I'm sure they ship to canada :)
  22. If i get the ekwb 280 rad would i be able to just use my regular fractal 140mm fans with it? or should i still get cougars for it regardless?
  23. You should be able to answer that by telling us the FPI of the rad in question, and static pressure, RPM and CFM of the fans in question.

    Let me know what it is.

    :)
  24. :) nice one rubix, pop quiz time.
  25. rubix_1011 said:
    You should be able to answer that by telling us the FPI of the rad in question, and static pressure, RPM and CFM of the fans in question.

    Let me know what it is.

    :)


    Fan: 1000 RPM, 66 CFM

    Rad: 10 FPI

    What cha think? :)
  26. Nice try :-p Rubix meant for you to answer the suitability question by researching on the net
    So, low Fpi rad, reasonably high Cfm at a lower speed, what do YOu think about that set up?
    Moto
  27. Well in my opinion, I think it should be just fine!
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