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replacement battery - have to be same type?

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Anonymous
a b D Laptop
August 20, 2004 4:08:36 PM

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

I think the battery on my laptop has gone - doesn't seem to be holding any
charge! This seems to have happenned quickly, but I use it quite a lot on
mains, so perhaps it has been going slowly for a while.

I have a panasonic 'UN251S1(C1)-P' battery - 11.1V 6000mAh. 4 questions:

1. It is about 13 months old - is it normal for the battery to stop working
after a year?

2. Is there a way I can recover it - charge it, flatten it, charge it etc?

3. If it is beyond recovery, do I need to replace it with the same model, or
could I new one that would last longer than the 1.5 hours I got out of the
old one.

4. If I get a different model, what numbers should I be looking for on a new
battery - I presume the 11.1v must be the same, but does the 6000mAh need to
be the same, or could I get a higher one that would last longer.


Thanks for any advice.
Anonymous
a b D Laptop
August 20, 2004 4:08:37 PM

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

"Gareth Tuckwell" <ContactGT@NoSpam_hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8RlVc.310$lJ5.242@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
> I think the battery on my laptop has gone - doesn't seem to be holding any
> charge! This seems to have happenned quickly, but I use it quite a lot on
> mains, so perhaps it has been going slowly for a while.
>
> I have a panasonic 'UN251S1(C1)-P' battery - 11.1V 6000mAh. 4 questions:
>
> 1. It is about 13 months old - is it normal for the battery to stop
working
> after a year?
>
> 2. Is there a way I can recover it - charge it, flatten it, charge it etc?
>
> 3. If it is beyond recovery, do I need to replace it with the same model,
or
> could I new one that would last longer than the 1.5 hours I got out of the
> old one.
>
> 4. If I get a different model, what numbers should I be looking for on a
new
> battery - I presume the 11.1v must be the same, but does the 6000mAh need
to
> be the same, or could I get a higher one that would last longer.
>
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
>
Batteries are a real pain. Yes, they can fail in 13 months. Yes, you need
the same voltage, and no the amp hour rating does not have to be the same.
However if you wish it to operate the computer as long in duration, then you
need to match the 6 amp hours rating. The larger the amp hour rating the
longer the laptop will run on battery power. The reason they are a real
pain is that there is no form standard, nor is there a charge circuit
standard. You need to replace the battery with one specifically made for
your laptop.
Anonymous
a b D Laptop
August 20, 2004 6:40:38 PM

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

"Richard Johnson" <richj@remove.this.tairedd.com> wrote in message
news:10ibnb11grj66df@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "Gareth Tuckwell" <ContactGT@NoSpam_hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:8RlVc.310$lJ5.242@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
> > I think the battery on my laptop has gone - doesn't seem to be holding
any
> > charge! This seems to have happenned quickly, but I use it quite a lot
on
> > mains, so perhaps it has been going slowly for a while.
> >
> > I have a panasonic 'UN251S1(C1)-P' battery - 11.1V 6000mAh. 4 questions:
> >
> > 1. It is about 13 months old - is it normal for the battery to stop
> working
> > after a year?
> >
> > 2. Is there a way I can recover it - charge it, flatten it, charge it
etc?
> >
> > 3. If it is beyond recovery, do I need to replace it with the same
model,
> or
> > could I new one that would last longer than the 1.5 hours I got out of
the
> > old one.
> >
> > 4. If I get a different model, what numbers should I be looking for on a
> new
> > battery - I presume the 11.1v must be the same, but does the 6000mAh
need
> to
> > be the same, or could I get a higher one that would last longer.
> >
> >
> > Thanks for any advice.
> >
> >
> Batteries are a real pain. Yes, they can fail in 13 months. Yes, you
need
> the same voltage, and no the amp hour rating does not have to be the same.
> However if you wish it to operate the computer as long in duration, then
you
> need to match the 6 amp hours rating. The larger the amp hour rating the
> longer the laptop will run on battery power. The reason they are a real
> pain is that there is no form standard, nor is there a charge circuit
> standard. You need to replace the battery with one specifically made for
> your laptop.
>
>

Thanks for the advice - one last question: What do you mean by charge
circuit? Is that the power supply for my laptop or are you talking about
some electronics inside the laptop - the bit that charges the battery?

Sounds like it would be easiest to just get another one of the same make!

However, I'm beginning to wonder if it is the battery - I just charged it to
100% and switched to battery power + left it playing videos to run it down.
It got down to about 85%, then "system recovered from device failure" and
the screen went to 640x480, then the power monitor jumped in to say the
battery was critically low and it hibernated before I could press a button!
Reboot + battery is at 2%. Sounds like it probably is the battery, but I
wonder if the GFX card might be failing. Anyone encountered anything along
these lines?
Related resources
Anonymous
a b D Laptop
August 21, 2004 6:01:35 AM

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

Ok, the 1st and most important tip: If you are operating on AC, remove
the battery completely. If you need a UPS, get a UPS. The general
experience is that leaving the battery in the laptop while it's run for
long periods (days) on AC power will destroy the battery in 6 to about
18 months.

You didn't say if it's a NiMH (nickel metal hydride) battery or a LiIon
(Lithium Ion battery). LiIon is much better, but also a LOT more
expensive (usually over $200 (ouch!)).

The battery needs to be made specifically for your make and model of
laptop. That's an absolute rule.

For a very few laptops, both NiMH and LiIon batteries are available.
For most laptops, it's one (only) or the other (only). If you have a
choice, and you use the battery, I'd spend the extra money on the LiIon
battery.

Check E-Bay. It's not uncommon to find a $250 battery for $50 to $70,
sometimes brand new in a sealed package. But, it's also possible to pay
$70 for what is essentially a dead battery. Use some judgement in
evaluating the battery and the seller.

Properly cared for, a LiIon battery can last up to 7-10 years, but also
has a "cycle" limit (varies, but typically 300 to 500 charge/discharge
cycles). It will last longest if you don't run it all the way down
(stop at about 20% to 25%). A battery in storage should be cycled ONCE
and "topped off" (left charged) about every 60 to 90 days for maximum
life. With NiMH (or even older NiCad) batteries, you will rarely get
more than about 3 years no matter what you do.

If the battery is NiMH, you might be able to restore some capacity by
"cycling" the battery. Basically, that's almost what you did. Charge
the battery, disconnect the charger, and let the laptop run until it
dies. Do NOT be doing anything critical, just having the laptop on with
the screen lit is enough. When it dies, plug it back in, recharge, pull
the charger and repeat the cycle, perhaps 3-5 times. It MAY restore
some life to the battery. This is unlikely to work with a LiIon
battery, but sometimes does work for NiMH batteries.

NiMH and NiCad batteries can be opened (well, sometimes) and rebuilt
with new cells. This should NOT be done with LiIon batteries, there are
serious explosion hazards if it's not done EXACTLY right. New cells are
about $3 to $6 each, an you may need anywhere from 6 to 12 of them.

Good luck


>
> Thanks for the advice - one last question: What do you mean by charge
> circuit? Is that the power supply for my laptop or are you talking about
> some electronics inside the laptop - the bit that charges the battery?
>
> Sounds like it would be easiest to just get another one of the same make!
>
> However, I'm beginning to wonder if it is the battery - I just charged it to
> 100% and switched to battery power + left it playing videos to run it down.
> It got down to about 85%, then "system recovered from device failure" and
> the screen went to 640x480, then the power monitor jumped in to say the
> battery was critically low and it hibernated before I could press a button!
> Reboot + battery is at 2%. Sounds like it probably is the battery, but I
> wonder if the GFX card might be failing. Anyone encountered anything along
> these lines?
>
>
Anonymous
a b D Laptop
August 21, 2004 3:35:40 PM

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

"Barry Watzman" <WatzmanNOSPAM@neo.rr.com> wrote in message
news:4126AF08.3080507@neo.rr.com...
> Ok, the 1st and most important tip: If you are operating on AC, remove
> the battery completely. If you need a UPS, get a UPS. The general
> experience is that leaving the battery in the laptop while it's run for
> long periods (days) on AC power will destroy the battery in 6 to about
> 18 months.

Thanks for the advice - I think this is exactly what has happenned. I don't
remove the battery when running on AC (most of the time). It is a Li-Ion
battery, so I think a trip to e-bay or an expensive shop is in order! I'll
try cycling it a couple of times anyway - see if it helps.

Anyone know where I can get a cheap Panasonic 'UN251S1(C1)-P' battery in the
UK? Its rated at 11.1v and 6000mAh??? I have found one online at 93 GBP.


>
> You didn't say if it's a NiMH (nickel metal hydride) battery or a LiIon
> (Lithium Ion battery). LiIon is much better, but also a LOT more
> expensive (usually over $200 (ouch!)).
>
> The battery needs to be made specifically for your make and model of
> laptop. That's an absolute rule.
>
> For a very few laptops, both NiMH and LiIon batteries are available.
> For most laptops, it's one (only) or the other (only). If you have a
> choice, and you use the battery, I'd spend the extra money on the LiIon
> battery.
>
> Check E-Bay. It's not uncommon to find a $250 battery for $50 to $70,
> sometimes brand new in a sealed package. But, it's also possible to pay
> $70 for what is essentially a dead battery. Use some judgement in
> evaluating the battery and the seller.
>
> Properly cared for, a LiIon battery can last up to 7-10 years, but also
> has a "cycle" limit (varies, but typically 300 to 500 charge/discharge
> cycles). It will last longest if you don't run it all the way down
> (stop at about 20% to 25%). A battery in storage should be cycled ONCE
> and "topped off" (left charged) about every 60 to 90 days for maximum
> life. With NiMH (or even older NiCad) batteries, you will rarely get
> more than about 3 years no matter what you do.
>
> If the battery is NiMH, you might be able to restore some capacity by
> "cycling" the battery. Basically, that's almost what you did. Charge
> the battery, disconnect the charger, and let the laptop run until it
> dies. Do NOT be doing anything critical, just having the laptop on with
> the screen lit is enough. When it dies, plug it back in, recharge, pull
> the charger and repeat the cycle, perhaps 3-5 times. It MAY restore
> some life to the battery. This is unlikely to work with a LiIon
> battery, but sometimes does work for NiMH batteries.
>
> NiMH and NiCad batteries can be opened (well, sometimes) and rebuilt
> with new cells. This should NOT be done with LiIon batteries, there are
> serious explosion hazards if it's not done EXACTLY right. New cells are
> about $3 to $6 each, an you may need anywhere from 6 to 12 of them.
>
> Good luck
>
>
> >
> > Thanks for the advice - one last question: What do you mean by charge
> > circuit? Is that the power supply for my laptop or are you talking about
> > some electronics inside the laptop - the bit that charges the battery?
> >
> > Sounds like it would be easiest to just get another one of the same
make!
> >
> > However, I'm beginning to wonder if it is the battery - I just charged
it to
> > 100% and switched to battery power + left it playing videos to run it
down.
> > It got down to about 85%, then "system recovered from device failure"
and
> > the screen went to 640x480, then the power monitor jumped in to say the
> > battery was critically low and it hibernated before I could press a
button!
> > Reboot + battery is at 2%. Sounds like it probably is the battery, but I
> > wonder if the GFX card might be failing. Anyone encountered anything
along
> > these lines?
> >
> >
>
Anonymous
a b D Laptop
August 25, 2004 10:29:33 PM

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

Gareth Tuckwell wrote...
> Anyone know where I can get a cheap Panasonic 'UN251S1(C1)-P' battery in
the
> UK? Its rated at 11.1v and 6000mAh??? I have found one online at 93 GBP.

There's an "Advent 7017 / Clone Laptops Battery 11.1V 6000 mAh" on eBay UK
for £46 Buy-it-now. I think it's the same battery as yours but it's not
described as new.

An eBay search on your battery part number returns several 3rd party
batteries on sale in Germany. Cheapest is 83 Euros (£56) for Buy-it-now but
the seller is a bit short on feedback. A better bet is a seller offering
them for 90 Euros (£60) BiN. He seems to specialize in this sort of battery
and so you are much more likely to be getting a fresh product.

Have a good look at the guys previous sales (click the auction number on
each line of his feedback profile) - if he has been selling a lot of these
batteries then he probably has a good source of fresh ones otherwise beware.

I bought a 3rd party battery for my HP laptop about 6 months ago from an
eBay battery specialist seller (turned out to be a PowerSmart battery) at
the same time that HP replaced my original battery under warranty. The
non-HP was about half the price of a genuine HP item. It started off with a
better capacity than the genuine article and is still ahead after 6 months
and almost exactly the same number of cycles of usage.

It worked for me and gave me a big saving but obviously it's a case of buyer
beware.

David
Anonymous
a b D Laptop
August 25, 2004 10:29:34 PM

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

http://www.batterysavings.com provides pretty reasonable international
shipping and really good pricing. I usually use them for all my
battery needs. They have camcorder batteries, laptop batteries, and
other power products as well as memory and storage products from
Simple Technmologies - www.simpletech.com. Their phone number is +1
310 656 0793.

"David Lee" <davidlee_malvern@dont.use.this.bit.hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<cgiid3$s5k$1@hamble.qinetiq.com>...
> Gareth Tuckwell wrote...
> > Anyone know where I can get a cheap Panasonic 'UN251S1(C1)-P' battery in
> the
> > UK? Its rated at 11.1v and 6000mAh??? I have found one online at 93 GBP.
>
> There's an "Advent 7017 / Clone Laptops Battery 11.1V 6000 mAh" on eBay UK
> for £46 Buy-it-now. I think it's the same battery as yours but it's not
> described as new.
>
> An eBay search on your battery part number returns several 3rd party
> batteries on sale in Germany. Cheapest is 83 Euros (£56) for Buy-it-now but
> the seller is a bit short on feedback. A better bet is a seller offering
> them for 90 Euros (£60) BiN. He seems to specialize in this sort of battery
> and so you are much more likely to be getting a fresh product.
>
> Have a good look at the guys previous sales (click the auction number on
> each line of his feedback profile) - if he has been selling a lot of these
> batteries then he probably has a good source of fresh ones otherwise beware.
>
> I bought a 3rd party battery for my HP laptop about 6 months ago from an
> eBay battery specialist seller (turned out to be a PowerSmart battery) at
> the same time that HP replaced my original battery under warranty. The
> non-HP was about half the price of a genuine HP item. It started off with a
> better capacity than the genuine article and is still ahead after 6 months
> and almost exactly the same number of cycles of usage.
>
> It worked for me and gave me a big saving but obviously it's a case of buyer
> beware.
>
> David
!