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No video from a new 880GM-UD2H

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October 15, 2010 1:52:05 PM

I appologise profusely!!!!! I've just read the stickied thread which lead me here...It always helps if you feed the CPU some power :) 
Let this be a lesson to all and not have you waste 5 hours of your night...READ STICKY THREADS! Sorry guys..



Today I built a HTPC which included a Gigabyte 880GM-UD2H motherboard...which as I'm sure you're aware, has onboard graphics.

I finished building it and connected it to the HDMI port of my TV (which I know is working as I have been using my PS3 on the same port). I turned on the brand spanking new machine...lights came on..fans came on..but no picture.

I grabbed a monitor and connected it via a DVI cable (while, of course, disconnecting the HDMI)...still nothing. I even tried the old school monitor cable (cant remember the name...VGA?). None of the video outputs will work.

Unfortunately the Antec Fusion 350 doesn't come with a speaker, so I can't listen for the beeps to diagnose what is happening. I've (for the hell of it) taken out the CMOS battery and jumpered the CMOS clearing pins, which had no effect.

I have taken the motherboard out of the case and connected only the power, power switch and the HDMI cable to the board. There was still no picture/signal at all when I turned the machine on. Sure I didn't have a HDD connected, but I would have thought I would still get some sort of signal.

No matter how much I google, I cant seem to find anything that relates to this problem.

I know it's very broad....but would anyone have any ideas before I take the board back to the shop tomorrow??


edit: Just incase it matters, I'm using an AMD Athlon II X2 CPU and 1 x 2GB stick of Kingston 1333MHz DDR3 RAM.

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a c 156 V Motherboard
October 15, 2010 6:05:31 PM

You really need a case speaker.

And if you take the board back and it's not the board, then what?

Work through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...
I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

If not, continue.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboardi...

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=yout...

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence or long single beeps indicate a problem with the memory.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.

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March 22, 2011 8:11:59 PM

I have the same problem - no video on LCD TV
I have no video on my own TOSHIBA TV, but on my neighbour's PHILIPS TV I saw picture... wtf?
Did you solve your problem?
BIOS was updated to F8, no cards, peripherals were connected, TV(HDMI/DVI) and power only. On my samsung 22" monitor - no problem
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