Anyone ever convert a sealed unit into open unit?

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06yfz450ridr

06yfz450ridr

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hey guys just wondering if anyone has ever converted a sealed unit into a non seal unit with a expansion tank etc? i know its probably not worth it but it would be cool to be able to refill and lengthen my unit since its not designed for this case and would be nice to have an expansion tank to look at


that and im thinking of buying another on of these units to hook to my sli config since its only 25 bucks shipped and it does a very good job on my system for the price. yes liquid cooling some cheap 550s isnt worth it but its just an idea if i can make some air/liquid cooled blocks for them. i just simply love designing things and making it work even if its not really needed, it gives me something to do haha
 
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Motopsychojdn

Motopsychojdn

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Hehe, I just responded to your post in another thread :)
Lutfij has modded a H50, as has Amuffin I believe
you may want to look at hybrid cooling your cards, waterblock but with the original covers and fans still on as well, my cards run at the same idle as my Cpu using that method,
I would say if you are looking to move up in W/c that starting afresh with a kit would be the best option, but you seem like a tinkerer and i'll cheerfully encourage that,
you could look at a multiport reservoir, feed one of the pumps into that, then the output to the second, which in turn returns the loop to the first (ignoring the rads there, just outlining layout) that will let you top up and bleed as well as giving you a little more water mass to play with
have a look through my stuff to see if theres anything you can borrow or adapt to your set up
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/274180-11-psycho-rider-radbox-project#bas
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/272443-11-asus-6950-dcii-plan
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/279524-11-chiller-project
on the subject of a res, how about making your own?
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/276566-11-fire-extinguisher-reservoir
Everythings possible, and you seem to have the right attitude for modding mate, I'll help you all I can
Moto
 
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06yfz450ridr

06yfz450ridr

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thankyou man for the suggestion. im going to do some research once i get home since im leaving class now IT that is haha.
 
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06yfz450ridr

06yfz450ridr

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man your rig looks sick and i like the fire extinguisher res i have 3 ols one lying around. i was thinking of using either this min keg for something, maybe for my liquid coller now to mount inside. to many ideas right now. i may just buy another one of these for 25 so i can link them together and have 2 pumps blocks rads and fans to link together since its so damn cheap. id rather experiment on that one first since im not sure if you can replace the pump yet. you inspire me man keep it up
 
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amuffin

amuffin

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Dis here.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1203528/official-nvidia-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-mod

img36731.jpg
 
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06yfz450ridr

06yfz450ridr

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thats what i was thinking of doing but i would need the barbs to be on the side if i keep them in the slots i have now or a longer sli cable. but these cards dont run super hot tho, even overclocked and fan speeds at 50-55% its only getting to 55-60c max. bf3 does stress these to cards running the reality mod and ultra everything. that reality mod makes a huge difference in appearance as well as stress the gpus a hair more, some maps where it is all brown it looks a little weird.


the next problem, is should i use 2 pumps if i use dual rads and a res? im deff going to buy the other liquid cooler and maybe upgrade to a fx8320 and save this cpu when i build my aunt a new computer.
 
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06yfz450ridr

06yfz450ridr

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actually i figured ou what im probably going to do, i dont think i need to really liquid cool my cards at all, im going to buy another one of these liquid coolers, and join them together with clear tubing andrun my peltier as well as make some custom copper tubing that would fit inside my heatsinks for the chipset using multiple tubes as to not restrict flow, the chipset does have nice coolers but when overclocking as high as i plan to its going to get hot, the vcore gets pretty warm during testing.

there is a nice 240mm rad as well http://www.aliexpress.com/item/water-cooling-radiator-240mm-aluminium-radiator-water-cooling/576991430.html if i do plan to cool my cards later on
 
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06yfz450ridr

06yfz450ridr

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thanks man i will . im trying to find a spare chip set heatsink from my board so i can hack the ends off at the moment so i can connect the tubing like that. of not ill just use my other method. but do you think running the 2 pumps would be ok? or would i not really need it
 
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Lutfij

Lutfij

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the same pumps ofc :) otherwise you could burn the other one out or even both out. Just remember to pick up H50 pumps not the coolit or any other versions.

here's my take on the H50:
IMG_0147.jpg


imp notes:
that pump can handle a max raddage of 240mm anything above that and you'll see negative temp gains.
tubing should be less than 8mm
dya have space in your case to have two pumps and two cards side by side? maybe get a PCI-E extender...?
 
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06yfz450ridr

06yfz450ridr

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i have no space in my case at all haha. im going to be using the two same pumps that these rads came with. the only thing im owrried about is trying to fill them. i would most likely have to cut a hole where the res is on the inside and add some caps after im done filling both. most likely later on ill but the 240mm rad and a bigger pump etc as well as a full tower case. im looking at the nvidia case it has tons of room
 
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06yfz450ridr

06yfz450ridr

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so i finally got this project completed. the dual pumps setup that i had used could not pump quick enough to my liking. the flow was very weak and had some problems keeping it cool under full load reaching about 55c max which is kind of high @ vcore 1.38 4.2+ ghz. on my 6300 it probably would have been lower but the tdp was lower than the 8320. I added a swiftech mcp 355 and the flow is crazy now. the temps dropped atleast 10c under full load. im not sure if these aluminum rads with 3/8 barbs with 1/4 inside diameter are my weak point for not reaching lower temps. (it may be 3/8 inside but im not sure exactly.) That or its the block i used that came with these pumps, its a very heavy chunk of copper coated with nickel which may not be absorbing the heat that well. but i ordered a universal block from china haha for testing since it was dirt cheap for a copper based clear top block.

But hey i still only see about 35-40c playing bf3, the idles seems weird @ ~28c with a water temp of 20c? the idle seems a little high but hey im most likely going to add my TEC anyways and temps will be near the 0c range most likely, not sure since its a bigger liwuid cooler and a higher tdp 65w vs 125w. the 65w was getting -14 @ idle 4-9c playing bf3 in my other rig that was overclocked quite a bit.

Let me know what you think and any other changes i could make. Are copper core rads going to benefit that much more vs the aluminum?


63664101511754733064375.jpg




 
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Lutfij

Lutfij

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:/ I like your enthusiasm but mate, there are a couple of things that you've read backwards.

1| galvanic corrosion, a copper/nickel plated block and an aluminium rad mean this
clog.jpg

or you'll notice a grey/white scale form ontop of your copper block
2| the rad fin spacing and the fans static pressure need to go hand in hand i.e: high FPI rad mean higher rpm fans, lower FPI reduced rpm fans but static pressure is critical to both
3| I understand its dirt cheap but for a project like this, investing in a block would pay off alot of dividends in the long run both from you wallet and your health :)
4| I've officially migrated to a real watercooling loop courtesy of the Copper AMS rad - Its just the maiden run with the heatware connected but I'll update its results in my build log.
5| don't use coolants on your next revision of this build, get distilled water and the coolant won't gunk up on you.

If you want I can shoot you a link that has a big round up of cpu blocks!
 
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06yfz450ridr

06yfz450ridr

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please send me that link if you arent busy.

But as for the corrosion i havent seen any as of yet. they were built around 2003 and tthe pumps and blocks are clear on anything. cant say about the rads but the rads are 19fpi.

I know the coolant is a 30% mixture with distilled water and i added more distilled to fill the resevior. the only reson i didnt add just plain distilled was the coolant looked cooland glowed nice under light as well as had corrossion resisstant addatives and agleacide and tastes good ahaha jk. it tastes gross when i blew the lines out.

but as for the block i bought does it look ok compaired to the one im using? the clamp im using atm is shot but it holds tight.


as for different rads i can buy a copper 240mm with 1/2 inlet and outlet for 30 bucks from china haha. look the same as the h100. but by how much would a copper cored rad cool compaired to aluminum? im not even sure they are full aluminum but they feel really light.

another thing is the fans used to run at 1800 rpm and the manual says 2200 max and ive never seen them go that high. now they are stuck at 1300 rpms at all times which confuses me. they are temp controlled and the mobo says they are at 100% and they are only @ 1300 now which is weird. im most likely going to replace them with higher rpm and higher resistant fans to see if that helps.
 
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Lutfij

Lutfij

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Galvanic corrosion happens over time, it won't come from out of the blue yonder. But if you plan on running this project into the future, you should keep things you know you'll have an appreciation to :) and also give it some loving.

the link: Stren's 2012 CPU Water Block Roundup
*besides a block should last a good few builds, provided you don't jump sockets altogether...

The aluminum rad, as per veteran watercoolers saying is as is, adding alu will damage anything with copper or anything that is among metals with a slight difference in electrical charge. So I'd strongly advise on getting a copper rad and drive your experiment forward. The other thing is its not 2000 where you had to mod a Bonneville rad to watercool, the rads available these days are very competitive, competitive enough to make some manufacturers cry in agony.

Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Dual 120mm Radiator - 80mm Thick!!
Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta Triple 120mm Radiator - 80mm Thick!!

Slap on some fans on that rad:
swiftech Helix
Corsair SP120
Scythe GT AP-15
or any fans that have good static pressure

My setup now, is absolutely quiet compared to the setup I had before!!! Honestly though, head down to my AMS build log tomorrow, or subscribe to it and get updates while I update the log with pics and info.
 
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06yfz450ridr

06yfz450ridr

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Thankyou for the info and I.will subscribe in the am tnrw, I plan on getting at least a 360mm rad In the near future of a known brand but just as I was about to I got a nice 400 to ticket last weekend. So as of now I'm.going to wait. but hey at least I can brag for now compared to my friends liquid cooler on his core 2 quad. It idles and rums.way cooler and his is only 95w tdp. Actually ripped his case apart and saw it hasn't been cleaned in 4 years, was packed solid with dust and the paste was shot. But that's another story. if you don't mind how much was your.rad? That's something I'd like to.invest in as well as a full tower and a real chipset water cooling block.
 
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